Quote Originally Posted by Bogertophis View Post
Another way besides "hook training" is to make sure your snake gets your scent (& don't handle rodents first, LOL!) I've always had long hair & have used it for this (dangled it to where the snake can sniff & realize I'm not incoming food), or you can use a sleeve from a worn shirt (same way), or for many snakes, just by blowing air across your hand into their direction (from a safe distance when your snake is "hoping for food"), you'd be surprised how fast most snakes "get it" and back off. This identifies you both as NOT FOOD, and as someone they know isn't a threat (ie. unknown predator) heading their way. I've known an awful lot of snakes...I find they appreciate not being startled & being given this information. They don't like being scared any more than we do....this is just good "snake manners".

Hook training is similar, but instead of scent, you are "talking" to their sense of touch. Both ways work. And you can do both if you want. Most snakes get
more relaxed in time, they seem to learn to trust us, just as we learn to trust them. Try to imagine how they feel: nearsighted (not identifying you or anything by vision; they are attracted to motion thinking it might be food, & instinctively they must be ready at all times to grab prey in order to survive) and deaf (they feel bass notes only) and WAY smaller than us. Remember: the only thing that normally picks up a snake in nature is a predator that's about to EAT them...so be patient & do everything you can to convey they are safe with you. A little patience & "communication" makes for a calm pet snake.
I have thawed out his mice in the fridge the night before and then before feeding place it in a cup of hot water for a few minutes to get it warm, then i use forceps to grab it and feed. Then I don't handle/bother the snake at all the next day. This way the mouse scent isn't on me at all.

When i pick him up I always try to do it from the back side and never approach his head.