# Lizards > Monitors and Tegus >  Dehtdrated Water Monitor

## simpleyork

Just received a 24" water monitor from an online shop(if name is needed i will Pm it)  Anyway it is quite lively but seems dehydrated to me, the pelvic bone is showing some. Just wondering what I can do to make him acclimate better and to get his health up. he's in a large glass enclosure for now with a wooden lid as well as has the light hanging low near a perch to get him a place to bask that is up at around 110 degrees, the humidity is at 80%. I've offered it dubia roaches and egg. It has taken a few roaches but not many.
Also this is a short term set up as i have a room I'm going to convert to two enclosures one for this Monitor and one for my Ornate monitor

[IMG]http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af276/simpleyork
/P1000016.jpg[/IMG]

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## simpleyork

here's my ornate  monitor for comparison(had him for 6 months now) he's grows about an inch every 10 days

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## Elite Morphs

soak him daily and make sure he has a large water bowl and get some food in him cause if you see bones you know he is skinny

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## simpleyork

> soak him daily and make sure he has a large water bowl and get some food in him cause if you see bones you know he is skinny


he soaks most of the day and doesn't want to eat any- what do i do? I've covered his cage so he can't see any one for more privacy.

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## wolfy-hound

Have you had a fecal done to see if he has parasites? How long has it been since you received him? Shipped in, right?

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## Zombie

Up the basking to 130° and the humidity is maybe a touch high. Not bad tho, maybe 5-10%. Try feeding it mice or rats. At 24" it should be on pup rats or adult mice (just be careful of the mice, adults are nasty). If you just got him he is gonna need a little time to acclimate. Make sure he has a nice hide and don't drop his temps overnight. Good luck with him and shoot some more pics  :Very Happy: 

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## simpleyork

i have tried a rat pup but it hasn't taken it. I received the monitor last friday shipped in from Florida, they say it was a farmed animal, so parasites are inevitable. hasn't pooped any sept in his water dish so a fecal would be hard at this time. I'll get more pics in the this weekend since i work during the week. 

I'll update with any news

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## Zombie

> i have tried a rat pup but it hasn't taken it. I received the monitor last friday shipped in from Florida, they say it was a farmed animal, so parasites are inevitable. hasn't pooped any sept in his water dish so a fecal would be hard at this time. I'll get more pics in the this weekend since i work during the week. 
> 
> I'll update with any news


Mine will only go in their water. Its just how they role. Try mice, mine tend to prefer mice, something about the smell. Maybe try a live mouse Hopper or even just a fuzzy to start so it doesn't seem like too much of a meal to the monitor. After he starts eating more regular you can bump up size and go to rats. Make sure you bump the basking spot up, that should help a little. Almost all waters come from farms, they aren't the easiest animal to breed so it is usually easier to buy them from a farm. Contact the people you got him from, they should have treated him for parasites if importing them. Waters are notorious for getting RI especially being shipped. Make sure his temp is up and watch for any bubbles or mucas in the nostrils or mouth. Some waters take a while to get used to their new environments. Try not to handle him unless absolutely necessary. Give him a Luke warm (room temp or slightly above) soak once a week. Bath tub is the best place to do this, and make sure he has logs or something in there to get on if he wants out. Also, don't fill the water for his soak to more than his shoulder height. If I think of anything else I will add to this. If you think of anything post it up...

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## simpleyork

thanks for the help, i'll try what you said.

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## mumps

Up the temps, leave the humidity alone.  Increase the enclosure size ASAP; your new acquisition (which I highly doubt was "farmed"), has probably gone at least a month in cramped quarters surrounded by hundreds of other salvators waiting exportation.  These exporters care nothing about the lizards.

Don't handle.  Don't take out for a soak.  Provide a proper water container.  

If it does eat and you freak it out, it will regurge.  Provide a proper environment and leave it be.

Chris

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## simpleyork

thanks
I'll be working on the room this weekend.

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## infernalis

> thanks
> I'll be working on the room this weekend.


 A couple of things...

 Please elaborate on the word "room"?? are you implying you want to give this animal a room in your house??

 Secondly, You do realize that virtually all monitor species are burrowing animals and need deep dirt to dig tunnels in.

 taking it out then plopping it in a tub is stressing this lizard out more than it already is.

 See if you can get a veterinarian to sell you some Normosol R electrolyte and a needle. Then what you want to do is take a small (thawed out F/T) mouse and inject it with the electrolyte solution until it swells up like a ball, then offer it either in a dish or from a set of tongs.

 Basking temperatures, 130+ degrees, ambient temps @ 85 or so.

 As the name "Water Monitor" implies, you should have a large water source, such as a cat litter box filled with water inside the enclosure that your lizard can get into at it's own leisure.


 This has to go.. It simply will not do, and the animal's condition will continue to deteriorate rapidly until you get rid of the fish tank.



 Thank you.

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## simpleyork

Where the table in this picture is will be his new home after i get it built in this week end, though i might just turn the whole room into his cage, What do you think, would it be too big then for his size? I'll be adding a lot of dirt in there since it is in the basement on cement a plastic liner is going to be installed as well. 
Any other ideas would be great

I'll be getting plenty of logs and bark hides for him to feel more secure. I also have a 30 gallon tub for water for him.
This will be Fridays all day project




Here he is in his water bowl



added a few hides

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## simpleyork

Any good ideas on how to heat a room 5' 8" x 8' x 7' ? or at least half that? should i just use a 250 watt bulb or similar? would a smaller one work. I could also run the electric dryer's vent through the room before in goes outside. Let me know what you all think!

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## Zombie

Read this...

http://www.proexotics.com/care_water.html

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## infernalis

A few things to consider, measure the floor temperature (please) and you will find basement slabs unacceptably cold for a monitor.

 This can be remedied with radiant floor heat, Not sure if you are up to it or not, but it requires that you lay down pex tubing and pump hot water through it to keep your dirt warm.

 Otherwise that floor will suck away the heat and give you very cold dirt.







 Now there is another option, electric floor heat....



 All options are expensive, but anyone who tells you that keeping monitors properly is cheap, was lying.

 As for using heat lights, it is always recommended to use a few low wattage (45-50 watt) bulbs, a 250 watt bulb will dry out your enclosure and blister your lizard.

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_mues155_ (05-31-2012)

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## wolfy-hound

You should also realize how destructive monitors are. They will take down drywall like tissue paper. If you have bare concrete block, maybe.

The moisture will also be destructive. Instead of a 250 watt light, you'll probably want banks of lightbulbs.

The ProExotics webpage has a ton of great info.

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## simpleyork

thanks on the info on bulbs. As for the floor If i raised it some with foam and wood would that be better or should I just build a large wooden encloser upstairs instead? I just want to do this right since the first try wasn't too good.  
what would you recommend for the 24" monitor?

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## infernalis

> thanks on the info on bulbs. As for the floor If i raised it some with foam and wood would that be better or should I just build a large wooden encloser upstairs instead? I just want to do this right since the first try wasn't too good.  
> what would you recommend for the 24" monitor?


 You do realize it will not stay 24" for very long right?

 Water monitors get big, really really big. 

 The room idea is great, but you have to do quite a bit of sealing and insulating.

 I took my Pro Exotics PE-2 temp gun downstairs and checked, the floor is 51.8 degrees, much too cold for a varanid of any species.

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## simpleyork

yes i understand that he will not stay small if i can get his health up.
I'll be sticking with the basement then, it it right next to the wash room and where i keep my roach colonies. I'll raise the floor up some and board the walls, i'll get pictures up as the progress goes this weekend.




I also need to start looking at a place to keep my Ornate Monitor, he's been growing very quickly since i got him he'll be getting to the two feet mark very soon.

thanks for your help, much better then the people who sold me the monitor, after letting them know the monitor was not in the condition they said it was and asking what could be done they quickly told me that i wasn't keeping it right (the whole two days i had it) and didn't offer any help in getting it setup better. live and learn won't buy from them again.

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## simpleyork

could it be that it is just the stored fat is gone in the tail area and not a dehydration issue, the front of him looks much better then in the tail area? He sits in his water bowl most of the time,  sorry if the question seems dumb

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## infernalis

not dumb, a skinny tail base is a sign of malnutrition, the lizard has been living off stored fat.

http://www.anapsid.org/heplipidosis.html

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## simpleyork

So since this is the case, i need to get his monitor to eat to fix this issue then?

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## wolfy-hound

If you get his enclosure, temps and all right, he should eat like a horse. If the set up isn't right, the monitor won't eat.

Esp if it's not hot enough, they need some heat for digesting. It's good that you're willing to do a ton of work, since that's what's required with the monitors.

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_infernalis_ (04-11-2012)

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## Anatopism

Check out this thread on my local Herp society forums - Rich (Brand X Rodents) built an AMAZING Nile Monitor enclosure, and if you message him (he is also on here) he may be able to give you some pointers on enclosure plans. His divides in the middle, so that he can expand it at any time.. and you can see in the photos how large it already is. That doberman is not small, and the aquarium they are filling is 75 gallons. 

Keep in mind that your water can get even larger than a nile, and the enclosure Rich has built wont necessarily hold an adult nile or water for it's entire life.

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## simpleyork

The soonest i can get him into a herp vet is next week if after i get this cage built and can't get him to 
eat like a horse to bulk up, that will be the next step. 
the temps are good now in his small tank. I think he ate a few small gold fish from his  bowl , it was too messy this morning to tell but i didn't see any when changing the water. so at least he's getting something down.
I'll get a small hopper mouse tomorrow to see if he'll take something a bit bigger since he hasn't been to interested in some baby rats that my breeders just had.

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## infernalis

> If you get his enclosure, temps and all right, he should eat like a horse. If the set up isn't right, the monitor won't eat.
> 
> Esp if it's not hot enough, they need some heat for digesting. It's good that you're willing to do a ton of work, since that's what's required with the monitors.


^^^^^^^^^this post right here^^^^^^ A++

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## simpleyork

come to think of it i do have a large deep tool box for my truck i don't use, i could build a wooden cage around like they do with the horse troughs,to keep upstairs untill i can get the room better well thought out that would give me a few months before he out grows that. it's about 2 feet deep so plenty of room for dirt to dig in 
what do you think?

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## simpleyork

i'll get exact measurements after work tonight 
but it would be around 2 and a half feet wide 4 and a half long  then at least two feet taller then the box itself

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## infernalis

it would be a start, but please don't procrastinate the new enclosure.

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## simpleyork

I definately won't procrastinate, just want it planned well. I'll be busy this weekend.

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## simpleyork

he took a week old rat today! good sign. took measurements on that tool box this morning 
5'8" x 3'6" x 1'10"  then I'll add a 1'9" more to it in hight

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## Robyn@SYR

Great husbandry will work wonders for a troubled Water (or any under kept lizard). You do have to watch for respiratory issues, blowing bubbles and clicking, that would be a negative sign.

But great temps, hydration, secure hides, followed by a strong diet, and you could be on the right track.

However, eggs, goldfish and frozen walrus pops do not a good diet make. 

Feeder insects, rodents. Done. That is all you need. Feeding a monitor that already has likely parasite issues more prey items that have all new parasite issues (goldfish) is running down the wrong road.

Don't force feed or assist feed, that in not needed.

Check out the monitor info at our site ProExotics.com, in the FAQ and caresheet section. Some things I need to update, like soaking (not needed given a good setup, unless you are trying to get pretty pictures done), but temps and diet info is all applicable to your animal.

Once you get some food in, poop will come out, then you need to get a fecal done at the vet, and treat parasites accordingly.

Cage wise, I would work around the cattle troughs for now, build from there, that is your best bet.

Best of luck.

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wolfy-hound (04-12-2012)

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## infernalis

Thanks for posting that Robyn, I wanted to make the statement about not needing a soak, but I didn't want to be viewed as going against your established care sheet.

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## simpleyork

hey thanks. i'll not feed them any goldfish anymore.  just put the rat in this morning before heading out to do some stuff in town when i came back he had eaten it and was basking under the lamp, so the mice i bought will have to wait, he does have a supply of dubia roaches and has eaten a few of them as well.  Bought some wood today so tomorrow i'll get his new encloser put together and pictures put up for critque

Robyn@SYR  I printed up that care sheet you had on it and am going to do all I can to follow it to the "T"
thanks

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## Robyn@SYR

Best of luck with your Water. They can be a bit tricky, but once you get the basics down, they thrive. Search out Jim Heck on Facebook, he has a PE Water, a BIG one, and he would probably chat you up about adult caging.

Here is a pic, not sure who all can see it:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater

And Wayne, I have needed to update that caresheet for years. Still do : )

Basics are still fine, but I did want to clarify the soaking. It CAN be helpful, especially for dehydrated lizards, but it is not necessary for a proper kept lizard in a non-desiccating cage (screen top style). It IS super helpful in prepping an animal for pics though. Our babies were soaked every week or two, and always looked like a million bucks : )

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## simpleyork

Anatopism- I like that enclosure, I was thinking for my Ornate to do a large L-shaped cage in the front  room though I may have to bribe the wife by remodeling the kitchen for her. 
I'll get this cage done for the Water Monitor to give me a little time to get the final cages figured out how I want them.

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## simpleyork

today's work














I'll be adding one more light to help with the ambient temps 

He's been moving around checking out everything so much more lively

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## wolfy-hound

I hate to ask the obvious question, but you do have a closed lid, right?

(I only ask because my neighbors were astounded that their adult ball python climbed out of a OPEN aquarium)

I think it looks like a bang up job and I bet he's going to be digging like crazy and throwing dirt in all directions in no time. Don't be surprised if he just starts hiding a lot too. 

Retes style stack hides would make him happy too!

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## simpleyork

yup there is a lid to it

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## infernalis

that is the coolest "quickie" enclosure I have ever seen.

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## simpleyork

the lid

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## simpleyork

basking temp

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## simpleyork

ate a pre killed mouse today

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## simpleyork

hasn't eaten anything since the mouse 6 days ago. the basking temps are 147 on the high end and ambient in the 80's.Humidity is about 80 depending on the time of day. He won't open his eyes anymore, and vet really doesn't know what to do, says it's too far gone. what to do?

I know i won't deal with the people I bought him from again they have been of know help.  

On the up side my Ornate has been doing really great, started eating adult mice this week, and hates my guts so I leave him be.

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## wolfy-hound

If he had organ damage when you got him (from improper temps, humidity, diet, etc) then he may well be beyond saving. 

It depends on how experienced your vet is with monitor lizards, whether you decide it's time to euthanize, to try something else, or ?

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## simpleyork

i'm going see if he improves over this weekend while i'm off work then go from there. 

I should have asked more question before ordering him, though they may not have been too honest just the same.  

I have located me a baby sav that will be a new addition to the family very healthy, lively fellow at that, a guy bought him yesterday from a local shop then decided he wanted leopard geckos instead.

I've had some in the past so excited to get one again now that my wife and I have a perminant home of our own.  

I've got a copy of infernalis' website so should be good to go.

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## simpleyork

gonna go pick him up tomorrow

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## infernalis

I know all too well about organ damage.

 When Chomper fell ill, we tried, I took him to two different vets and spent hundreds of dollars trying, but unfortunately, once his kidneys died, it was just a matter of time before his blood became so polluted that he finally gave up.

 The problem is with these things, is Monitors are such rugged animals that they can run around for weeks with failed organs.

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## simpleyork

yah, i'm going to definately have a hard time deciding on the verdict, he was in such poor condition when I got him 2 weeks ago and the online store denied him looking sickly in any of the photos I sent to them. He had already used his fat reserve before I ever received him, he was just about skin and bones.

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## Michelle.C

Honestly at this point, you need to leave these people a review. They sent you an animal that is obviously in bad shape. You need to let people know so they know what they are dealing with. 

If you have dated invoices, shipping dates, photos, etc. Leave a review for them proving your case. Maybe they will refund part of your money or something. 

I'm sorry he's not doing any better, I have my fingers crossed for him. It's hard to bring them back when they are that far gone.

Just curious, what are you offering him to eat and how are you offering it?

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## Zombie

> Honestly at this point, you need to leave these people a review. They sent you an animal that is obviously in bad shape. You need to let people know so they know what they are dealing with. 
> 
> If you have dated invoices, shipping dates, photos, etc. Leave a review for them proving your case. Maybe they will refund part of your money or something. 
> 
> I'm sorry he's not doing any better, I have my fingers crossed for him. It's hard to bring them back when they are that far gone.
> 
> Just curious, what are you offering him to eat and how are you offering it?


X2! Here and the fauna BOI. People need to steer clear of these sellers so it doesn't happen to anyone else. I am hoping yur little Guy makes it...

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## simpleyork

been offering him dubia and lobster roaches, as well as hopper mice live and pre killed. I left some roaches out to roam the enclosure(as my ornate loves to search for them throughout day so thought that he might as well) as well as some in a shallow dish for easy capture, The mice were left to roam for a few hours but didn't want them to harm the lizard and the dead were left in over night.

He only got bothered for 5 mins when i had to put the food in, but didn't touch him so as to not further stress him any.

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## simpleyork

5 minutes a day that is

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## simpleyork

has anyone dealt with UnderGround Reptiles before?

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## Michelle.C

> has anyone dealt with UnderGround Reptiles before?


I have. I purchased a pair of Red Tail Green Rats, they were supposed to be a sexed 1.1 pair. They are both female and had...friends. Luckily I quarantine and have plenty of Prevent a Mite on hand.

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## simpleyork

just wondering if it's even worth trying to get a refund or just post a negative review.

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## simpleyork

Got home and took a look at him, I don't think I can bare to let him suffer anymore. I'll be getting him Euthanized. I wish it had turned for the better, but I really do believe he was too far gone when I received him.
I don't know why I didn't request photos of the animal I was receiving, as I usually do just to see if they are willing to go the extra mile for their customers and to make sure I'm getting what they say I'm getting. 
Sorry if I sound so negative, I was just so excited to finally get a Water monitor and it ended so soon.

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## infernalis

It's a tough decision, and kudos for having the stones to do it.

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## JLC

> just wondering if it's even worth trying to get a refund or just post a negative review.


It's ALWAYS worth giving a business a chance to make it right with their customer.  Even if it's known ahead of time that the chances of them doing the right thing are slim, they need to be given the opportunity.  

Be polite, but direct and too the point and don't be wishy washy about it.  Something along the lines of: 

"I purchased a water monitor from you on (date) and informed you on (date) of it's poor and deteriorating condition.  A vet was consulted on (date).  The monitor received proper care and all the vet's instructions were followed.  But the monitor could not eat and could not overcome the damage done to internal organs brought on by substandard care prior to its sale.  I'm asking for a complete refund of the purchase and shipping price and expect it no later than (reasonable date).  This is not up for negotiation.  If I don't receive the complete refund by the requested date, I will be posting my experience on the appropriate venues for maximum exposure to your client base."  

And be sure to include pictures and copies of vet reports and receipts.  

Underground Reptiles does not have a good reputation.  I honestly don't expect them to give you a refund or care if you threaten to go to the BOI.  You won't be the first to talk about them there.  However, they MIGHT give the refund and its worth a try.  Mostly though, doing that strengthens your case on the BOI.  You have to show that you TRIED to let them make it right and they refused.  THEN you have a solid BOI case.  

Sorry about the little guy.  Seems like he never had a chance.  :Sad:

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## suzuki4life

I've been brought stuff that looks much much worse especially in water monitors and they turned around.

Your cage is terrible. Ideally for any monitor you either want to go the trough route for smaller monitors, OR you want to take time to frame and INSULATE walls for the enclosure for bigger stuff.

Heavily dehydrated stuff i will go to the extreme of subcutaneous hydration. Basically its injection of water under the skin of a lizard to help speed up the hydration process (think similar to a human IV). Force feeding Pedialyte is another option I use often with rescues. YOU have the benefit that he is eating. Much eaiser to force fluid than food. Personally, I would push fluids and heat. Yes he needs water BUT with the limited info and apparent knowledge it is NOT beneficial to have him soaking. He is retreating to water which lowers his body temps and encourages respiratory issues in sick animals. heat and decent humidity, push fluids and encourage eating.


Your cage....you want to keep heat INSIDE the cage. Outside mounted lights pointing in are just plain dumb. You lose over half of the heat this way. Learn to wire your own sockets and have them completely inside the cage, NO SHROUDS!!!!!!! Humidity will come especially with dirt substrate. As it dries out, wet it down or get leaf litter. Downfall, dirt is hard to heat so this is yet another reason your cage is subpar.

Your situation, I would probably use one of the large blue rubbermaid tubs with a socket wired inside. i would use a retes stack and keep him on paper towels for substrate to keep a good eye on fecals. I would give a small dish of water that he can not lay in but can drink from. I would increase overall temps (I'd use a heat mat under the tub if necessary) to above 85 and basking site 130-140 and see where he chooses to lay. heating him up SHOULD encourage food drive. If he's laying in his water, even if you are heating him up, he's lowering his temps on his own.

Monitors are hard to get right unless you put forth the effort for a proper setup.

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_infernalis_ (04-21-2012),_Michelle.C_ (04-21-2012)

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## infernalis

All I can add to the above post (excellently written by the way) is that injections should be Normosol-R an electrolyte intended specifically for dehydrated animals.

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## simpleyork

So I'm now really confused, I was told to put him on dirt then not to put him on dirt. 
If anyone is willing to call me and talk about my setup a little more  send me a PM and I'll send them my number as I'm now confused and need phone consultation since it's easier to get all the information through. 

The reason for them being mounted on top was because of this photo.
http://www.proexotics.com/faq_images...or_trough8.jpg
It's a quick fix though and I have a day to do it.

I have two digital thermometers and two bulbs for monitoring the cages temps. 

I'll set up a cage like you said and see if that helps. I'll get this one cleaned up and set for my Ornate. Thanks. I'm not trying to push any buttons just getting frustrated.

I did call UnderGround up and voiced my concern about their lack of help and they told me to send another e-mail and that they would help out better this time.

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## infernalis

No, you misread... Dirt has to be kept damp. I use a watering can like people water potted plants with.

 Misting on dirt is virtually useless, I dump 2 gallons of water on my Monitor's dirt every few days.

 by spreading leaf litter over the top it helps the dirt retain moisture.

 I have planted grass, serves the same purpose, the grass and it's root structure holds the soil together and keeps the humidity in it.

 The statement about soaking is highly accurate, animals do not absorb via osmosis.

 A decent vet will do a Normosol injection for about $100 (office visit included)

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## simpleyork

okay that's what I was doing,  dumping water in there so it stays moist. 
here's some more photos from today I've set him up with paper towels and a shallow water dish with a basking spot high of 150 and humidity at 80% he is now in a smaller enclosure but long so as to make it easier to have a temp gradient, wasn't able to pick up a tub today so it is a tank 12" x 4' x 13" with a wood top to keep in the heat and humidity. I feel like I stepped back some. 
how would one go about tube feeding as he has not eaten since Monday?

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## simpleyork

called the vet but missed by an hour, left a message. I'll call again on Monday.

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## simpleyork

Pedialyte is that the stuff you can give children or something else?
and do you mix it with water like 50/50 or just straight.

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## suzuki4life

> All I can add to the above post (excellently written by the way) is that injections should be Normosol-R an electrolyte intended specifically for dehydrated animals.


that's good advice if you have access but for most of us, distilled water works in a pinch.

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## Anatopism

Just a general question about distilled water... isn't the reason Normosol-R or pedialyte is recommended due to the specific electrolyte balance? I would think that you have to be very careful with distilled water, particularly if the animal isn't taking in any other form of liquid or food, that may provide necessary minerals for healthy cell function? If injecting, is there a possibility of rupturing cells? 

I obviously don't know enough about the subject, which is why I am asking, but is this an issue to be cautious of?

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## suzuki4life

> So I'm now really confused, I was told to put him on dirt then not to put him on dirt.


shouldn't be confused. Many people want to offer a naturalistic habitat cage. In reality, many people raise monitors on solid floors with no substrate. Which is better normally depends on the health of your monitor in the end. I would agree that monitors would rather be in the wild and trying to provide them a "near home" cage is most ethical.

Using the tub is purely a quarantine method that is much easier to watch fecal  output and maintain temps properly. Very hard to properly heat dirt, making sure it is healthy right now is more important than him feeling like he's at home. I've had many monitors in bare tubs who were feeding machines(because they were healthy) you can still add hides if you feel they are necessary.

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## suzuki4life

> Just a general question about distilled water... isn't the reason Normosol-R or pedialyte is recommended is due to the electrolyte balance? I would think that you have to be very careful with distilled water, particularly if the animal isn't taking in any other form of liquid or food, that may provide necessary minerals for healthy cell function? If injecting, is there a possibility of rupturing cells? I obviously don't know enough about the subject, which is why I am asking, but is this an issue to be cautious of?


Pedialyte is the cheap way of hydration because it has a few things above and beyond plain distilled water. I would not inject pedialyte into an animal. I use it orally.

MANY issues can be caused by someone with no clue injecting any living creature with a needle. Are you implying the increased hydrostatic pressure causing cell lysis? Highly doubtful.

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## simpleyork

I'll be using pedialyte orally. 

I have in the past used a needle to inject an anti bacteria medicine for a sick ball python via 
vet orders

where would you inject on the lizard (hip area or tail? where there is more muscle?)

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## suzuki4life

> I'll be using pedialyte orally. 
> 
> I have in the past used a needle to inject an anti bacteria medicine for a sick ball python via 
> vet orders
> 
> where would you inject on the lizard (hip area or tail? where there is more muscle?)


find loose skin fold, pinch, slide needle just under skin.

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## simpleyork

There's plenty of those on him unfortunately. Been getting a little bit of pedialyte in him though most defiantly does not like me giving it to him. his eyes are no longer watery like they were yesterday morning and seems more lively.
Since he has gone off food what might be a good substitute to orally feed him? His fat storage on his tail and thigh area is gone so what would be the best route to go?
I haven't had problems keeping my health reptiles healthy, but this is a new one for me nursing an unhealthy stressed monitor to health. Thanks for the help suzuki4life, this has given me some more hope in the monitor, I don't want to loose him.

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## jbean7916

You might try a pinkie slurry to syringe feed him. 

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## suzuki4life

if you had a pinky pump(those evil things I will never own again) you could pump in some pinkies.

I'd work on hydration and heat for now and watch him hopefully liven up. You said he ate a week ago on his own. Maybe the hydration will inspire him to continue. Force feeding should be one of the last possible options IMHO.

I'd check on him and if he's off his basking site, maybe give more pedialyte and put him back on. Make him move off of it himself.(forcing activity) If he stays under it for 20-30 minutes, you have a problem...a vet problem.(assuming you actually have a 147 degree basking site which is pretty hot for a water)

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## Michelle.C

Rather than force feed, you can try assist feeding. Use a small prey item to try and gently get him to open his mouth. Often with monitors, they will go ahead and open their mouth and bite whatever you are prodding them with. Then just hold it in his mouth and he should hopefully swallow. You can try it with small pinkies or roaches.

I rescued a V. indicus in much worse shape than your guy. Not only was she dehydrated/emaciated, she would regurgitate every she did manage to eat. Until she finally lost the will to eat entirely. We brought her into the vet, had her dewormed and with some proper temperatures, humidity, basking area, etc. and a bit of assist feeding and she bounced back wonderfully.

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## simpleyork

You all are giving me hope. I gave him some more pedialyte this morning put him on his basking spot then he moved off, came back from church and he had moved on to it which is a climb. He is starting to be more active.

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## suzuki4life

> You all are giving me hope. I gave him some more pedialyte this morning put him on his basking spot then he moved off, came back from church and he had moved on to it which is a climb. He is starting to be more active.


keep hydrating. Tomorrow offer food if he keeps up activity.

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## simpleyork

he's been moviing around some, put some dubia roaches in there, it was a no go, i'll be picking up a baby rat tomorrow to see if that works

as far as underground goes they still claim that it was in perfect health when I got it so I'm done dealing with them, as those first photos were taken the day I received it and the day after.

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## Michelle.C

Post on Fauna BOI. You might get their attention a little better there.  :Smile:

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## suzuki4life

Keep hydrating
Keep the temps proper.

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## suzuki4life

Update?

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## simpleyork

still not eating, lively but still looks dehydrated.

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## suzuki4life

at this point I would consider assist feeding. If you have successfully hydrated for 3-4 days and it did not vomit it back up, hydrate then feed.

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## simpleyork

picking up my bulk mice tomorrow so I'll be assist feeding him. I just hope he doesn't puke it back up.  he's kept most of the fluids in though he still looks just as skinny.

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## simpleyork

one of my rats had a litter last night so after work I assist fed him one he took it and did not upchuck it

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## jbean7916

> one of my rats had a litter last night so after work I assist fed him one he took it and did not upchuck it


Thats good news!

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## infernalis

> one of my rats had a litter last night so after work I assist fed him one he took it and did not upchuck it


Good news! thanks for the update..

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## suzuki4life

small meals are better than trying large ones. Pinks are great because no fur to deal with. If the pink is smaller than width of head, I would continue to assist feed daily until it eats on its own.

Once it is passing a semi solid fecal, I would suggest calling a vet to see if you can bring in a specimen to have a work up done. This is a proactive and cheaper way of doing things. If the results of the fecal come back clean, continue to do what you are doing. If not, you know to take it in for meds.

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## Skiploder

> one of my rats had a litter last night so after work I assist fed him one he took it and did not upchuck it


Excellent!

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## simpleyork

wouldn't take any this afternoon, activity has gone way down

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## suzuki4life

When i assist, they don't get the option of refusing.

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## simpleyork

Joanna passed away this morning.

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## jbean7916

Sorry for your loss.

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## Chris Wilkinson

> Just received a 24" water monitor from an online shop(if name is needed i will Pm it)  Anyway it is quite lively but seems dehydrated to me, the pelvic bone is showing some. Just wondering what I can do to make him acclimate better and to get his health up. he's in a large glass enclosure for now with a wooden lid as well as has the light hanging low near a perch to get him a place to bask that is up at around 110 degrees, the humidity is at 80%. I've offered it dubia roaches and egg. It has taken a few roaches but not many.
> Also this is a short term set up as i have a room I'm going to convert to two enclosures one for this Monitor and one for my Ornate monitor
> 
> [IMG]http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af276/simpleyork
> /P1000016.jpg[/IMG]


I would get a fecal sample done ASAP.  When ever my Black Throat or Water refuse to eat they have a problem.  most of the time it has been do to parasites and if they have a big load they will not eat.  My black thraot stopped eating two monts ago ran a fecal test and he had a intestinal worm and after his second treatment he started to eat again.  

On tamming leave him alone for a while an allow him to adjust.  My black throat took over three months befre he stopped running everytime I came into the room.  Work at his pace and try not to push things.  He will come arround in time.  Tame is a realvent term with Monitors.  Good luck.

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## Skiploder

> *Joanna passed away this morning*.





> I would get a fecal sample done ASAP.  When ever my Black Throat or Water refuse to eat they have a problem.  most of the time it has been do to parasites and if they have a big load they will not eat.  My black thraot stopped eating two monts ago ran a fecal test and he had a intestinal worm and after his second treatment he started to eat again.  
> 
> On tamming leave him alone for a while an allow him to adjust.  My black throat took over three months befre he stopped running everytime I came into the room.  Work at his pace and try not to push things.  He will come arround in time.  Tame is a realvent term with Monitors.  Good luck.

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## mumps

Sorry for your loss.

Acquiring WC animals is always a gamble.  Stick to CBB.

Chris

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## simpleyork

I will never buy anything with out either seeing it or many photos taken of the animal before buying it.

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