# General Husbandry and Supplies > DIY Forum >  DIY 9 Tub Breeder Rack (lightweight plastic shelving unit)

## SlitherinSisters

I saw a video on YouTube on how to make this rack and I love it! It's very easy to make, fairly inexpensive, lightweight, and you can take it apart in minutes.  

The finished product, it will cost just under $300 including the flexwatt. I'm still debating on putting sides on the rack, it's nice to be able to see any breeding going on without opening the tub. 


What you will need to buy:

You will need two of these shelving units from Home Depot, they are 2x3 feet, and 5 shelves high, $50 each, link 


2 sheets of 1/8th whiteboard/hardboard, $12 each. You will need to cut them down into 2x3 foot sections, you will use all of them and there will only be 2 small extra pieces. 

9 plastic 41qt tubs, I got mine at Walmart, I think they are $8 each http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-...-of-6/10401039

9, 1 foot sections of 12 inch flexwatt $27, with connectors ~$50 (plus shipping), I get mine from Reptile Basics 

2 packs of composite window shims, $2 each link to lowes

And of course tape/screws/etc. 

Ok, now for the fun part, building! 

Your whiteboard is already cut into 2x3 foot sections, now you need to cut out the corners, just enough to make room for the posts


We clamped several pieces together so it took less cutting. 2x2 inches should be enough, we did 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 to be safe. 


Once you have those cut you put them on the underside of the shelf, remember the white board is the lid of your tub. You could put it where the tub sits as well, but it's really not necessary. The way I see it heat rises so there shouldn't be a lot of heat loss. 



On the shelf


3 screws down the sides and 2 screws on the front and the back are enough. Just make sure you put the screws on the front next to the posts so your tubs don't rub on them. 


Here you can see the screw next to the post on the front side of the rack, your tub will not be that far over, I was just measuring the width I needed. 


It's always nice to have helpers 


The window shims will keep your tubs from rubbing on the flexwatt. This will also help stop your tubs when you push them in. 


Screw the shims into the shelf and slide the flexwatt under it. Do not screw them in tight, they are just there for your tubs to slide on and to hold your flexwatt down. You will want to tape down the front of your flexwatt so it doesn't catch on your tubs when you slide them in. I use duct tape. 


Here you can see where I had to take out the screws on the front and move them closer to the posts. 


Then you just assemble and done! You can put screws in the posts to hold the rack in sections to move it in pieces. I left it as is so I can take it completely apart. Also, the posts are longer in the back than in the front to help the tubs slide better and keep the tubs tight.

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_Anya_ (06-25-2013),Elusive Dream (06-13-2013),iBeLucKy (03-24-2013),mfsidore (04-24-2014),_MisterKyte_ (03-26-2013),PeterPieBaldPython (12-12-2014),_rlditmars_ (08-28-2014),_satomi325_ (03-24-2013),smc1118 (06-30-2013),_steve_r34_ (02-20-2014),Yamitaifu (11-02-2013),_zeion97_ (03-25-2013)

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## carlson

How are these heat wise? I have a back and half the sides covered to keep in heat on my wood rack

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## Evenstar

This is awesome!!  Did you have to cut the posts as well?  Or do the shelves slide down into place?  If they slide down, what holds them where you want them to stay?  Very cool.....

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## SlitherinSisters

> How are these heat wise? I have a back and half the sides covered to keep in heat on my wood rack


I have my thermostat set at 92, it's 88-89 on the hotspot. In my melamine rack I was able to have my thermostat set at 90 to get a hot spot of 88, so not a huge difference. I do heat my snake room to 75 though, that makes my cool side roughly 75 degrees. If you don't heat your snake room you will probably want to put sides on it. There isn't a huge difference from bottom to top heat wise since there aren't sides, so that's nice. 




> This is awesome!!  Did you have to cut the posts as well?  Or do the shelves slide down into place?  If they slide down, what holds them where you want them to stay?  Very cool.....


Yeah, you will need to cut the posts. You will also have to make 4 posts out of the extra you cut off to make the other posts (the extra pieces are long enough, so don't worry). I will have to take apart the top shelf and measure the posts to get lengths for you. The back posts are 1/4 of an inch longer than the front if I remember right. 

It's really tall, I have to use a step ladder for the top shelf. I'll have to get a height measurement too. I can slide the entire rack around the room on my own, it's very light, but also very sturdy.

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PeterPieBaldPython (12-12-2014),snakesRkewl (03-24-2013)

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## SnowShredder

I actually made almost these exact plans the other day  :Smile:  with the whiteboard and everything. Haven't put it together yet so its awesome to see how you did it. Thanks a ton, I think its great when people share their plans

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## SlitherinSisters

> I actually made almost these exact plans the other day  with the whiteboard and everything. Haven't put it together yet so its awesome to see how you did it. Thanks a ton, I think its great when people share their plans


That's too funny! Good luck with yours, it's pretty easy! Lucky for me my hubby is good at figuring things out, me, I need step by step pictures/explanations. I was totally lost when we started!

I do want to see some plans/cost for a set up like this for smaller tubs. I'm wondering if it would be easier to buy small racks or if building them would be a lot smarter. I'm kind of lazy, lol.

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## iBeLucKy

Nice thanks for posting this i think i'm gonna make a smaller one for now.....bookmarked  :Smile:

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SlitherinSisters (03-24-2013)

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## collrak

Thanks for sharing the info. Your DIY rack only costs ~$33 per 41qt slot. That's super cheap!

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## zeion97

Thank you very much.  :Smile:  this will give me and dad something to do. Lol. He's beginning to get involved in the care of them and has been wanting to build my burm (around 10 ft) a newer bigger cage. A rack will just have to do.. Lol. And thank you for the links with the actual items themselves.  :Smile:

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## mandalorian

great rack.  i only need some larger tubs for my adults.  Can this be done using only 1 shelving system?  Will this affect the stability?  thanks..

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## mandalorian

oops.  Another question.  How's the ventilation in the tubs?

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## zeion97

By connectors for the flexWat do you mean these? sorry, I'm still learning.  :Sad: 

http://www.reptilebasics.com/thgheat-clipset

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## SlitherinSisters

> Thanks for sharing the info. Your DIY rack only costs ~$33 per 41qt slot. That's super cheap!


Yeah, $100 a shelf is a little out of my price range right now. You can't beat the end price of this rack set up! And it's lightweight and water/heat safe. Wood racks make me nervous. 




> Thank you very much.  this will give me and dad something to do. Lol. He's beginning to get involved in the care of them and has been wanting to build my burm (around 10 ft) a newer bigger cage. A rack will just have to do.. Lol. And thank you for the links with the actual items themselves.


They do make longer ones, but I don't know where you would get bigger tubs! It's really fun, and pretty darn easy. 




> great rack.  i only need some larger tubs for my adults.  Can this be done using only 1 shelving system?  Will this affect the stability?  thanks..


You can definitely use one shelving unit, and you could always add the second unit down the road. They are really sturdy, you could use as many or as few shelves as you wanted. 




> oops.  Another question.  How's the ventilation in the tubs?


I have a very small crack around the entire front half of the tub, but I'm going to drill some more air holes. 




> By connectors for the flexWat do you mean these? sorry, I'm still learning. 
> 
> http://www.reptilebasics.com/thgheat-clipset


Yep, those exactly. I had Rich wire them all for me, so I couldn't tell you how easy it is to rivet them on your own. I use to solder them myself, but from what I've heard the new rivet style is much easier/nicer.

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## rexrem

The best thing with this rack is that you can also use the 28 qt sterilite tubs too. 2 tubs per level, that's 18 tubs or even 20 if you use the top most level with covered tubs.



This rack also has a smaller version at home depot where you make into a hatchling rack. I used 4 6 qt tubs with cover per level. I just used the tub covers so I don't have to put the board under the shelves. This is my temporary hatchling set-up. A friend of mine used 4 v-18 tubs per level and it fit perfectly. That's my next project.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-5-She...8#.UVDRrRxJOAg

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PeterPieBaldPython (12-12-2014),SlitherinSisters (03-25-2013)

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## SlitherinSisters

> The best thing with this rack is that you can also use the 28 qt sterilite tubs too. 2 tubs per level, that's 18 tubs or even 20 if you use the top most level with covered tubs.
> 
> 
> 
> This rack also has a smaller version at home depot where you make into a hatchling rack. I used 4 6 qt tubs with cover per level. I just used the tub covers so I don't have to put the board under the shelves. This is my temporary hatchling set-up. A friend of mine used 4 v-18 tubs per level and it fit perfectly. That's my next project.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-5-She...8#.UVDRrRxJOAg


That's awesome! Thanks for sharing! I'm going to have to check into what it would cost to make a hatchling rack!

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## Elusive Dream

How are you controlling the temp for the flex watt? I am looking to make the same rack and if I saw correct all of your tubs are on their own plug. I have a herpstat 2 that I would be using if hyou could steer me in the right direction.

I will be making it with only one shelf system. (4 41qt tubs)

I like the idea as I can always expand it!

Thanks.

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## SnowShredder

> How are you controlling the temp for the flex watt? I am looking to make the same rack and if I saw correct all of your tubs are on their own plug. I have a herpstat 2 that I would be using if hyou could steer me in the right direction.
> 
> I will be making it with only one shelf system. (4 41qt tubs)
> 
> I like the idea as I can always expand it!
> 
> Thanks.


Not sure if this helps, but I used one long piece of flexwatt and weaved it throughout the shelves. This picture was before it was secured down. Temps stay perfect, very consistent from shelf to shelf. I have an ambient room temp of 78 and one side of the 41qt is always 80.5 and the hotspot is 90.5. Doesn't ever vary

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Derekm951 (08-15-2014),Elusive Dream (06-13-2013)

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## Trackstrong83

I have to build this!! I'm looking to make a 10-12 high rack for all the females I plan to add. Question though, do the tubs slide out from the front or side? As in do you grab the wide part of the tub and pull it out that way or grab the front like in a normal rack?

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## SnowShredder

> I have to build this!! I'm looking to make a 10-12 high rack for all the females I plan to add. Question though, do the tubs slide out from the front or side? As in do you grab the wide part of the tub and pull it out that way or grab the front like in a normal rack?



I grab from the front like a normal rack (the opposite end of the flexwatt, I pull from where those black slats are)

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## Trackstrong83

> I grab from the front like a normal rack (the opposite end of the flexwatt, I pull from where those black slats are)


Okay cool, that's what I like. That way I can use 28qts and 41qts. I know it's not "normal" but I've successfully raised hatchlings in 28qt tubs. I just wouldn't put the 28qt all the way on all of the heat tape.

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## SnowShredder

> Okay cool, that's what I like. That way I can use 28qts and 41qts. I know it's not "normal" but I've successfully raised hatchlings in 28qt tubs. I just wouldn't put the 28qt all the way on all of the heat tape.



I'm actually about to make a 28qt rack with the same method, the tubs will be pulled from the front like a rack, but the shelf will be situated different. Look at rexrem's picture above and that's how I'll be doing the next one

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## Trackstrong83

> I'm actually about to make a 28qt rack with the same method, the tubs will be pulled from the front like a rack, but the shelf will be situated different. Look at rexrem's picture above and that's how I'll be doing the next one


Awesome stuff. Whenever I get more females I'm building my rack like this.

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## Elusive Dream

> Not sure if this helps, but I used one long piece of flexwatt and weaved it throughout the shelves. This picture was before it was secured down. Temps stay perfect, very consistent from shelf to shelf. I have an ambient room temp of 78 and one side of the 41qt is always 80.5 and the hotspot is 90.5. Doesn't ever vary


Do you recall the total length of your flexwatt? I would like to order it pre-cut cord attached as I do not have the special tool to crimp it etc.

Thanks

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## SnowShredder

> Do you recall the total length of your flexwatt? I would like to order it pre-cut cord attached as I do not have the special tool to crimp it etc.
> 
> Thanks



I ordered 12 ft but it was about 2.5 feet too much. I can find out exactly how much when I get home (I saved the extra that I had to cut off). If you get the pre cut cord you should still be able to cut off excess flexwatt, just cut BETWEEN the heating part (cut through the clear plastic part and Not any of the black part. It's fine to cut through the copper though)

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## Elusive Dream

If you would measure that would be greatly appreciated. I picked up everything else today, it just happened most of it is on sale at Home depot right now too!

Will have it ready for heat tape on Saturday.

I will not be putting it in a heated room, ambient temp is around 70 give or take. Should I use the 11" and will that be enough? Plan to run the hot spot at 90 in the tub. Might have to add sides if the cool side is under 75 as I would like it around 80 at least.

Thanks for all the information!

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## SnowShredder

I used the 11" flexwatt on mine. I was right it was 2.5 feet too long. I kept mine a little loose too. If I was you I would order a little extra just in case

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## SlitherinSisters

> How are you controlling the temp for the flex watt? I am looking to make the same rack and if I saw correct all of your tubs are on their own plug. I have a herpstat 2 that I would be using if hyou could steer me in the right direction.
> 
> I will be making it with only one shelf system. (4 41qt tubs)
> 
> I like the idea as I can always expand it!
> 
> Thanks.


Sorry, I didn't realize I was being asked questions! I really need to subscribe to this thread! I know I PM'd you already, but I'll put it on here in case anyone else noticed that picture. 

I didn't have a rivet gun so I ordered the flexwatt from Reptile Basics wired in 1 foot sections. I cut the plugs off all but one then soldered them together in a chain. Next time I'm probably going to try and rivet them together myself, it will be a lot cleaner than what I had to do. 





> I have to build this!! I'm looking to make a 10-12 high rack for all the females I plan to add. Question though, do the tubs slide out from the front or side? As in do you grab the wide part of the tub and pull it out that way or grab the front like in a normal rack?


My tubs pull out the front, but you could pull them out from the side too. The screws might be a pain if it's tight, also the window shims will have to be put in differently if your tubs are tight. The flexwatt will get rubbed enough to shock you if you have them tight, been there done that.

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## Elusive Dream

Very easy to build, thank you! Now just waiting for the flexwatt to show up.

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## SlitherinSisters

Alright once you know what you're doing this rack literally only takes 3 hours to put together. I still need to add the flexwatt, but that takes no time at all -especially because I'm going to try weaving the new rack like you guys showed me and see how I like it!

Added the second rack today and started working on a subadult rack! 


Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2

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## SnowShredder

I've been having a couple small problems with mine that I thought I would post on here since this thread is the same type of rack.

So this was my set up, a 4 tub 41 qt rack, and an 8 tub 28 qt rack, with 2 boaphiles on top. 
I noticed that the boaphiles were much too heavy (about 45lbs combined), because the shelves settled and made opening the tubs very hard. So I took them off, and rescrewed each shelf.
I've noticed that even without the boaphiles, the shelves are settling again. 

Any of you have this problem? I think I may have cut the posts too short because I can't screw through the post AND the shelf. I've been placing the screws underneath the shelf, only into the posts, with the shelf sitting atop the screw. I'm assuming that's my problem. I have several leftover post pieces that are longer and will see if replacing them with those will help

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## SlitherinSisters

> I've been having a couple small problems with mine that I thought I would post on here since this thread is the same type of rack.
> 
> So this was my set up, a 4 tub 41 qt rack, and an 8 tub 28 qt rack, with 2 boaphiles on top. 
> I noticed that the boaphiles were much too heavy (about 45lbs combined), because the shelves settled and made opening the tubs very hard. So I took them off, and rescrewed each shelf.
> I've noticed that even without the boaphiles, the shelves are settling again. 
> 
> Any of you have this problem? I think I may have cut the posts too short because I can't screw through the post AND the shelf. I've been placing the screws underneath the shelf, only into the posts, with the shelf sitting atop the screw. I'm assuming that's my problem. I have several leftover post pieces that are longer and will see if replacing them with those will help


I'm not having that problem at all, and I'm not even using screws in the posts. I made my posts long enough there is no way for the shelves to move down. I'm thinking your posts might be to long.

Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2

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## SnowShredder

> I'm not having that problem at all, and I'm not even using screws in the posts. I made my posts long enough there is no way for the shelves to move down. I'm thinking your posts might be to *long.*
> 
> Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2


You mean short right? yes that's what I'm thinking. Definitely been a learning experience for me (didn't go off a guide and kinda just threw everything together)

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## SlitherinSisters

Ah dang it, yes too short  :Wink:  I had a lot of extra posts so I'm thinking you should have enough. Did you cut them so you could still use both ends? So they would fit inside one another like they do when they aren't cut?

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## SnowShredder

> Ah dang it, yes too short  I had a lot of extra posts so I'm thinking you should have enough. Did you cut them so you could still use both ends? So they would fit inside one another like they do when they aren't cut?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2



The original pieces were cut like that, but the leftovers aren't. Do you think that will affect stability? I won't be moving the shelf around so I don't think that would be too much of a problem. Built 2 racks so far and learned stuff from each and made mistakes lol next one should be 3rd times a charm

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## Mahke

What is the height on these racks (The single unit 4 tub in addition to the 9 tub version) ?

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## SlitherinSisters

> What is the height on these racks (The single unit 4 tub in addition to the 9 tub version) ?


4 tubs = 3'
9 tubs = 6' 4''

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## Herman63

I am thinking on trying this but wonder could the flexwatt be plugged into a power strip and that into the thermostat??

Thanks, Herman

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## Crazymonkee

> I am thinking on trying this but wonder could the flexwatt be plugged into a power strip and that into the thermostat??
> 
> Thanks, Herman


Yes it can

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## Herman63

> Yes it can
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


Would this be good or a no no?

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## Crazymonkee

Many people do it... but use a good quality power strip.

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## SlitherinSisters

> Many people do it... but use a good quality power strip.
> 
> Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk


Yeah def, a quality power strip should to the trick. I did weave the flexwatt through on my second rack. It's so much easier, and a lot less wires! It does take more flexwatt, but it's nice to only have one wire to worry about.

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## toyota89

I will be building one next week

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Djbrandriff (08-09-2017),SlitherinSisters (02-20-2014)

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## steve_r34

Very nice

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SlitherinSisters (02-20-2014)

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## MonkeyShuttle

I built this rack and its strange, some days the tubs slide smoothly and others its like the rack shrunk overnight and the tubs are tight 


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## FBskateboarder

Does anyone know the length you should cut the posts too? Im trying to build my first rack, and dont want to screw it up lol.
Thanks!~Joshua

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## SlitherinSisters

> Does anyone know the length you should cut the posts too? Im trying to build my first rack, and dont want to screw it up lol.
> Thanks!~Joshua


I couldn't tell you exactly. My front posts are 1/8th inch shorter than the back posts because I put the shims in. What I did was put the tub on the shelf (on top of the shims in the back) put a shelf on top of the tub, then put an extra piece of the hardboard between the tub and the shelf. That gave a tiny gap and I measured the posts that way. Hopefully that makes sense...

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## whatsherface

Just wanted to share my attempt at building this rack! I modified it a bit, since I have juvies and larger males to house but no big females (yet). I figure I'll be able to add a second shelf on top of this when I need to expand, but it will do for what I have now. The ambient temps in my room are weird, and it's significantly cooler close to the floor, so I left the bottom shelf at regular height for storage. All that's left is putting in the heat tape (due to arrive on Saturday) and drilling holes in the tubs.

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SlitherinSisters (07-02-2014)

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## SlitherinSisters

You can always put insulation under the bottom shelf. Even the aluminum sheets will help a bit. I still tend to leave my bottom tubs empty if I can.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

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## whatsherface

> You can always put insulation under the bottom shelf. Even the aluminum sheets will help a bit. I still tend to leave my bottom tubs empty if I can.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the tips! I think this layout works best for me right now (I'm kind of tight on storage space) but once I have a snake room proper I definitely plan on utilizing the whole shelf as a rack! Its not like I can't change the configuration around later if I need to.  :Very Happy:  Thanks for the awesome tutorial!

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## whatsherface

So I ended up not being so happy with my first attempt. Most of the poles were too short and were sitting on top of screws rather than being secured by screws. I also couldn't get the ambient temp over 70, and the tubs rubbed against the screws holding down the hardboard that I cut too large corners out of. It was kind of a mess. So I took it apart, found a used matching rack on Craigslist for 20 bucks, bought another piece of hardboard and some eucaboard for sides and a back, and then I tried again.



This is the result. I'm much happier with it. It's sturdier and can keep the ambient temps higher much easier. I bought screws that lay flush so they won't rub the tubs, and triple checked the legs every step of the way. I also used some glue to secure the board because i had noticed it sagging in the center between the screws. The shelves from the first set are in the back of my closet until I need 41 quart tubs, because the screws on the narrow ends are far enough apart to work with 41 qt.

I also got my herpstat 2 in the mail and I'm over the moon.

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## SlitherinSisters

Looks good. I dont have an issue with ambient temps because I heat the room to 75 year round, it's just easier that way. 

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## whatsherface

> Looks good. I dont have an issue with ambient temps because I heat the room to 75 year round, it's just easier that way. 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk


Thanks! I live in a basement apartment and its pretty consistently about 67-69 degrees. All the warm air in the house shoots straight up to the third floor. :/ I can't wait until I have a snake room. Or even a large snake closet lol. (Sorry for spamming the thread, I just felt like sharing.  :Razz:  )

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## iPanda

EEE I just made this this weekend!! I think I still have to trim the posts a little more (there's about an inch and a half of space between the lip of the tub and the top of the shelf), but we'll see once I figure out whether I'll be using insulation (very likely), pvc or frp, and the thickness of those. I plan on running 11in flexwatt with parallel wiring. What's the best you've found for sides? My room stays sufficiently cool, as it also houses a chinchilla, and there is NO option of moving anyone. (long story dealing with landlords). Thanks =D

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## jesst

What did you use to cut the poles with?

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## SlitherinSisters

> Thanks! I live in a basement apartment and its pretty consistently about 67-69 degrees. All the warm air in the house shoots straight up to the third floor. :/ I can't wait until I have a snake room. Or even a large snake closet lol. (Sorry for spamming the thread, I just felt like sharing.  )


No problem at all! I love hearing about people building and using this rack. I'm definitely open to suggestions, additions, etch! When I built the second rack I took advice from people who posted on here about weaving the flex watt through the rack. Definitely the way to go. 




> EEE I just made this this weekend!! I think I still have to trim the posts a little more (there's about an inch and a half of space between the lip of the tub and the top of the shelf), but we'll see once I figure out whether I'll be using insulation (very likely), pvc or frp, and the thickness of those. I plan on running 11in flexwatt with parallel wiring. What's the best you've found for sides? My room stays sufficiently cool, as it also houses a chinchilla, and there is NO option of moving anyone. (long story dealing with landlords). Thanks =D


I haven't put anything on the sides, I just heat the room to 75 degrees and leave it at that. I have looked into insulation as the sides, like the aluminum stuff, but it's pricey and thus far I don't need it. 




> What did you use to cut the poles with?


I used a miter saw to cut the poles. You can take the longer cheaper route and use a hand saw. It doesn't take much to cut through it.

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## Rhasputin

I wonder if I can retro-fit this to work with rodents. Perhaps by putting wire on the bottom of the shelves or something.... It would save me a lot fo crap with building another rodent rack out of wood.

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## Derekm951

Just wanna say this is my favorite DIY for cheap, just getting into keeping multiple BP's, just did it last weekend. Works perfectly, the window sheers arent necessary, but helpful.

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SlitherinSisters (10-06-2014)

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## SlitherinSisters

> Just wanna say this is my favorite DIY for cheap, just getting into keeping multiple BP's, just did it last weekend. Works perfectly, the window sheers arent necessary, but helpful.


Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful!

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## Viol8r

I found the YouTube video for this a couple months ago and made it a week or two after watching it. I didn't want to use the whiteboard and have to replace it often due to the humidity, so I used a sheet of corrugated plastic (3'x8') that was also at Home Depot for about the same price. $13 and some change I think. I used screws that are rounded at the head and the 28 qt tubs to fit up to 18 snakes. The tubs barely touch the screw heads, but it kind of locks the tubs in place. To wire my heat tape (also separately) I used a 12 gage extension cord. Trimmed the insulation off, (a little over a half inch) folded it, and stuck it in the connectors until I got to the last one. It was nice to read and see what others have done as well.

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