# General Husbandry and Supplies > DIY Forum >  41qt rack Plans and Pics step by step

## ShiffyAME

Well I just finished building a few new racks and have been writing up articles for my website for each one of them.  Here is the first article I completed and figured I would share it here as well!  The materials for this rack are were right around $100.  That doesn't include tubs or flexwat though.  This is a very easy rack to build considering the melamine I used is the precut melamine at Home depot.  They are I believe $7.32ea.  if you were to buy a whole sheet for $35 and do all the cuts yourself you could only get 6 of them out of a whole board.  So you are spending around $8 per 6boards to not have to do the cuts yourself as well as each board comes with the trim already on 3sides of it.  Definately worth the little extra for the ease factor in my opinion though.



This rack is designed to use the 41 qt Sterilite tubs that can be found at both Target and Wal-Mart. They are a perfect fit for the pre-cut melamine boards found at Home Depot.



Materials Needed

2- 2x4's cut to 15  3/4 inches
2- 2x4's cut to 32  5/8 inches
2- 2x4's cut to 35  5/8 inches
4- 2x4's cut to 5  7/8inches (used to keep shelf spacing uniform)
4- heavy duty caster wheels 
8- 1x4's cut to 66 inches (for a 9 tub rack, add or subtract 6  3/4 inches for every tub you add or take away from your rack)
10- precut 15  3/4inch x 35  5/8inch x 3/4inch melamine shelving boards from Home Depot.
    (again this is for a 9 tub rack.  You want 1 extra melamine board for however many levels you want. example 5 boards for a 4 tub rack.)
1-  One piece of  plyboard cut to 15  3/4inches x 35  5/8inches or you can just buy an extra precut melamine board
    (this is just to seal the insulation in the caster.  This is optional and not necessary if you don't insulate the bottom.  Plyboard is just lighter but melamine will work just as fin)
1- Box of 1.5inch wood screws
1- Box 2.5inch wood screws
1- roll of r-13 insulation (optional)
4- 2x4's cut to 5  7/8inches
1- roll of foil tape (for flexwatt)
1- About 2foot of flexwatt per shelf, per strip (1 strip of 11inch vs 2 strips of 4inch)

Tools Needed

1- small drillbit for pilot holes
1- #2 drill bit
1-2 Screwguns.  (one will get the job done, but having 2 screwguns and not having to change the bits back and forth makes for a much easier faster job!)
1-square



Now Your Ready To Start Building

2x4 Assembly For The Caster

Using your factory cut sheet of melamine to make sure your 2x4s are square and not sticking out past the melamine platform assemble the frame by screwing the face of the 15  3/4inch 2x4's into the ends of the 32  5/8 2x4's.  Use 2 screws on each end so that everything stays firm.




Screwing Down The Melamine Top To The Caster

Before you start screwing make sure that the 2x4 frame is square to the melamine and everything is flush.  Once you are satisfied the pieces are lined up right take your drill and drill a pilot hole in one of the corners and tack the board down with a screw.  Repeat this process for every corner making sure the frame stays lined up in the right position.  Once you get the second screw in your not going to be able to adjust it.  After all for corners are tacked down add another screw in the middle of the board long ways just for good measure.




Insulation

Every time I built a rack there was something that I wish I'd done different after it was built.  Making sure the bottom is good and insulated is one of them!  For this rack I actually stuffed 2 layers of R-13 insulation inside my caster.  You can see the top piece in the photo. There is actually a second piece stuffed in below that one.  This step is optional, but it's a step that I would never build a rack for myself again in the future without doing.




Sealing The Insulation Inside The Caster

  If you decided not to use insulation you can skip this step if you'd like.  If you did instal insulation, just go ahead and make sure it' is packed in there nicely and place your cut plyboard piece on, make sure it's all flush with the frame and screw it down.  If you don't feel like buying and cutting a piece of plyboard to fit, you can easily use a piece of precut melamine for the top and bottom of the caster.  I just prefer to use plyboard because it's significanly lighter than the melamine.




Add the 2x4 Braces For The Wheels

 Take your 2- 2x4's that were cut 35  3/8inches and align them along the bottom sides of the caster.  Let the 2x4 hang over the edge of the caster box the thickness of one of the 8 boards you cut for the side braces.  This way there is a slight lip for the braces to rest on for added support.  Screw the 2x4's down so that your screws hit the first 2x4's you used to make the sides of the caster.




Add Your Wheels

I used the heavy duty wheels available at Home Depot for $3.44 each.  Place a wheel in every corner of the caster and screw down.




Finished Caster

After you install the wheels, flip your finished caster over and now you are ready to add your braces and build your rack!

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Scrappy#13 (03-10-2012)

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## ShiffyAME

Add Your Side Braces

Add one of your 8 braces to each corner on the long side.  You are only going to use 4 of them for now.  Make sure you only use one screw so that you can make sure the rack is square and level once you get up a few levels.  If you put in more than one screw the brace will be stuck in that position.




Adding Shelves

 Take your 5  7/8inch blocks and place one in each corner.  Then place a shelf board on top of the blocks.  Pressing the shelf down on the blocks will make sure that every shelf you add has a uniform opening.  Now  go around to each corner post and make sure the corner brace post meets flush with the front edge of the shelf.  Then drill a pilot hole being careful to keep the bit straight and going into the center of the melamine board and then add 1 screw per corner post. Make sure you only use one screw still so that once you get up a few levels you can make sure everything is square.




Squaring The Rack

 Now that you've gotten up a few levels on your rack.  Use a framing square or speed square to check that the shelves are square with the corner posts.  Once you are confident the rack is square drill a 2nd pilot hole and add a second screw for each shelf on each post.  Now that you have 2 screws in each shelf, the rack can not shift and is permanently square.  Then go ahead and add the rest of your shelving.




Finishing Touches And Your Done

Now that all of your shelves are put in you just have a few finishing touches before you can call the project complete.  You will need to add a back.  The one in the picture here I used a piece of plyboard because I had some laying around from another project.  The last rack I built I used the same boards I used for the braces and left the whole thing open.  So either use a full length piece of plyboard or take 2 of the 8  braces you cut and place one on each corner of the rack on the back side, and using pilot holes screw them in.  Make sure the rack is square in this direction as well before you add 2 screws to each post for each shelf.  Either one will keep the rack square and stop the tubs from backing out to far when you push them in.
    Now your going to want to take your last 2 braces and add one to each side in the middle.  This will add extra support in the center of each shelf as well as keep the tub sliding in and out straight.  You could also use plyboard to completely seal the sides in but using the braces like this makes for super easy instalation of the flexwatt.




Flexwatt

  I used 4inch flexwatt and used 2 strips.  Both were weaved in and out of every shelf in an S pattern and taped down to the bottom of every shelf with foil tape.  This allowed me to only have one connection at where I attached the chord.  Instead of using 2 strips of 4inch flexwatt you could use 1 strip of 11inch flexwatt for slightly cheaper.  I only used the 4inch because I usually purchase it in bulk and had more than enough here that was already paid for.   






Now Fill It Up!

Now that you've saved a little cash building your own rack, you can easily justify buying some new animals to help fill it up!  That is the fun part after all!  If you have any questions feel free to ask away!

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billye1982 (03-16-2011),_Herp Hugger_ (03-29-2011),_Jason Bowden_ (04-04-2011),Kymberli (03-28-2011)

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## billye1982

Very nice, easy to follow instructions.  I will be building two just like this in the next few months.  Thank you very much

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## ShiffyAME

Thanks for the compliment!  It really is an extremely easy rack to build with only a few cuts.  It honestly took me longer to tape the flexwatt down than it did to build the whole rack.

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## Kingofspades

Those are the precut shelves that are 16 X 36 right? (Or something like that)

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## Kingofspades

Nevermind, I found the shelf dimensions in the post.

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## ShiffyAME

> Those are the precut shelves that are 16 X 36 right? (Or something like that)


Yes they are.  The label on the tub says the tubs are slightly bigger than the shelves but they fit perfect.

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## tsshields

overall what was your final cost for just building it not the flexwatt thanks

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## tsshields

> overall what was your final cost for just building it not the flexwatt thanks


Never mind I saw it read right over it thanks

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## jben

Excellent write-up and very nice rack.   :Good Job:

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## ShiffyAME

> Excellent write-up and very nice rack.


Thanks!  If it helps one person it was worth the time.

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_Clint Bundy_ (03-28-2011)

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## Clint Bundy

I bought all the lumber today and will start assembly tomorrow on this set up. THANKS VERY MUCH for the instructions. Very detailed and easy to go by. I will probably end up with 4 of these total soon. My babies are graduating quicker than I thought into the bigger racks. I will be using 11 inch heat tape, that is the only change I will be making. I thought I had enough 3 inch to double it up like you did but I don't.

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## Kymberli

I'm definitely trying this after I love to Vegas this summer (dont want to stick this in a uhaul). Definitely better than paying over $300 for a rack with only three slots!  Thank you!

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## ShiffyAME

> I bought all the lumber today and will start assembly tomorrow on this set up. THANKS VERY MUCH for the instructions. Very detailed and easy to go by. I will probably end up with 4 of these total soon. My babies are graduating quicker than I thought into the bigger racks. I will be using 11 inch heat tape, that is the only change I will be making. I thought I had enough 3 inch to double it up like you did but I don't.



Honestly if I didn't have about 100' of 4inch heat tape laying around and had to buy flexwatt just for this project it would be cheaper to do 11inch.  The 4inch was paid for though so I rolled with it lol.  Thanks for the compliments though!  Let me know how it turns out for you, as well as if you have any questions.





> I'm definitely trying this after I love to Vegas this summer (dont want to stick this in a uhaul). Definitely better than paying over $300 for a rack with only three slots!  Thank you!


Thank you for the compliment!  If you build it with the caster you can just roll it on the wheels right up the uhaul ramp!  :Wink:   My buddy actually came over and got me to help him build one of these racks for himself and we tossed it right on the back of his truck and it held up fine on his drive home.  I'm glad I could help and let me know how it turns out, or if you have any questions!

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## Kymberli

I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to move, I just don't want to add to everything I have already, seems easier ..plus if I make it now, I WILL buy more bps which means moving them too  :Razz:  I'll definitely come to you if I have any questions! If only you were my friend and would come build one for me too  :ROFL:

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## Skittles1101

This rack is nice enough to be stickied I think, great job! Great write up also  :Good Job:

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## ShiffyAME

> I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to move, I just don't want to add to everything I have already, seems easier ..*plus if I make it now, I WILL buy more bps* which means moving them too  I'll definitely come to you if I have any questions! If only you were my friend and would come build one for me too


I completely understand that part.  I think every rack I have ever built was atleast partialy filled in my mind with animals I wanted before I even finished the new rack lol  It doesn't take long to fill them up though!  That is definately the fun part!  If you lived closer I doubt I'd turn you down to lend a hand.  I enjoy building things as much as I enjoy my animals, so it's always double nice to be able to build something to use for the animals  :Very Happy:   You did say you were moving to vegas?  If so feel free to just send me a plane ticket if you need the help, I won't complain one bit  :ROFL:  :ROFL: 




> This rack is nice enough to be stickied I think, great job! Great write up also


Thank you very much!  I definately would have no problem with that.  I'm glad so many people feel like the write up was a help to them.

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## Kymberli

> I completely understand that part.  I think every rack I have ever built was atleast partialy filled in my mind with animals I wanted before I even finished the new rack lol  It doesn't take long to fill them up though!  That is definately the fun part!  If you lived closer I doubt I'd turn you down to lend a hand.  I enjoy building things as much as I enjoy my animals, so it's always double nice to be able to build something to use for the animals   You did say you were moving to vegas?  If so feel free to just send me a plane ticket if you need the help, I won't complain one bit


 :ROFL:  I wish i could afford to have you come help me, i'm handy and can do this on my own.. but it takes me FOREVER to build things  :Embarassed: 
I'd be filling that rack with "rescues". I'm a sucker for an animal in need, both my normals were taken from neglected homes. I have to force myself not to go on CraigsList  :Razz:  If I had the space, I'd have at least 20 CL BPs by now  :ROFL:

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## Clint Bundy

I am wondering what the gap is between the top of the tub and the bottom of the next rack? I am measuring 1/4 inch. I am wondering if it should be a little snugger? If it's ok I will continue with the racks. I have the first level on and am just checking in. Thanks.

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## Kymberli

> I am wondering what the gap is between the top of the tub and the bottom of the next rack? I am measuring 1/4 inch. I am wondering if it should be a little snugger? If it's ok I will continue with the racks. I have the first level on and am just checking in. Thanks.


I'm obviously no expert, but I do remember reading somewhere in a thread that they should not be given more than 1/8" leeway.. Then again, that may be referring to an 1/8" gap in the *lid* of a single tub  :Razz:  Wish I could give you a definite answer! Sorry

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## Clint Bundy

Yeah I am thinking that 1/4 inch is too much and 1/8 inch sounds about right. I want to make sure though before going on.

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## ShiffyAME

> I am wondering what the gap is between the top of the tub and the bottom of the next rack? I am measuring 1/4 inch. I am wondering if it should be a little snugger? If it's ok I will continue with the racks. I have the first level on and am just checking in. Thanks.





> Yeah I am thinking that 1/4 inch is too much and 1/8 inch sounds about right. I want to make sure though before going on.


Yes there is about a 1/4 inch gap.  Considering they are 41qt tubs and for the larger fms I went with a larger gap for better ventilation without drilling holes. I've had the first one running for about 8 months now without any problems, but you could easily shave 1/8in off your 4 blocks and have an 1/8 inch gap.  Just personal preference.  If you plan on putting small males in there for breeding might as well be safe than sorry!

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## Clint Bundy

OK, I just wanted to make sure that the gap wasn't too big. I think I will make one this way and the other with an 1/8 gap. I have a few smaller males that I am going to house in this rack system. It is going together just like you said though. After the base was built ( I insulated mine also) the rest is fast to build. Once again THANK YOU!

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## ShiffyAME

> OK, I just wanted to make sure that the gap wasn't too big. I think I will make one this way and the other with an 1/8 gap. I have a few smaller males that I am going to house in this rack system. It is going together just like you said though. After the base was built ( I insulated mine also) the rest is fast to build. Once again THANK YOU!


Awesome!  I can't wait to see some pics of the new rack posted!  I'm very glad I could help.  Personally I like the larger gap.  It keeps the humidity just right for a perfect shed, but allows for enough airflow that aspen doesn't easily mold.  The smalles male I've put in there was about 700 grams and I didn't have a problem a single time throughout the season.  Of course that could be because he had no reason to escape because what he wanted was in the tub with him, a large fm  :Very Happy:

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_Clint Bundy_ (03-31-2011)

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## Clint Bundy

Well the racks are both built and I just need to get the heat tape put on. I order it on Friday and hope to be up and running by Monday. Thanks again!

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## Jason Bowden

Nice work! Excellent DIY thread!!!!

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## ShiffyAME

> Well the racks are both built and I just need to get the heat tape put on. I order it on Friday and hope to be up and running by Monday. Thanks again!


Not a problem! I hope they work out nicely for you.




> Nice work! Excellent DIY thread!!!!


Thank you!

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## HoggIsland85

I have a quick question, I created this exact rack but there was one problem.. they did not have the melamine pre cut shelving so I ended up going with kiln dried 36 x 16 paint grade pine panels.. Now some have said that pine shavings are dangerous to snakes unless they are kiln dried.. basicly all I'm asking if the kiln dried shelfs on the rack will be ok?

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## DeathMetalMax

This post made me realize that I should really add some insulation to my rack. :banghead: I appreciate the post, nice setup too. How do your snakes like it? 

The collection of 
Rachelle/shelliebear & 
I Max/DeathMetalMax

1.0 Possible yellow belly ball <name="Nurgz"/>
1.0 Dark wild type/Dinker ball <name="CleoMantra"/>
0.1 Low-grade pastel <name="Madison"/>
1.0 butter motley corn <name="Schiztz"/>
0.1 Ultramel motley corn <name="Cheesecake"/>

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## Coolthulu

Thank you so much for this. I've been stressing on building my rack for a while and came across this post. It's so well worded and easy to follow that I'm going for it. I'm just doing a 5 tub rack, so I'm sure I'll be building another one sooner rather than later!

Thanks again!

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