# General Husbandry and Supplies > DIY Forum >  Completed 41 qt Sterilite Rack

## Russ Lawson

Finished a 10 level 41 qt Sterilite rack I've been building last night, and moved a few of my bigger girls in. I'm fairly pleased with it, but there are things I could have done better which I will correct next time I build a rack. Anyway, I'll give a little walk through on how I put it together, and how much it cost me to build.

I've seen a lot of people build them long, which is cheaper, and makes for more of a display, but I chose to build mine deep, so I could fit more along the wall in my snake room as I continue to expand my collection. For the extra $50 or however much it may have cost, I think it was worth it to do it this way.

I bought pretty much everything except the thermostat and heat tape at Home Depot. Cuts there are now free, so that saved me a little bit of money over what I was expecting. I did end up spending more than I have listed here because when I purchased the heat tape and connectors, I was planning on doing belly heat on each level, but decided against it since it would be extremely time-consuming, and back heat works fine on my other racks. I figured I could save a lot of time and materials if I stuck with it this way, and I'm not displeased. Anyway, I'll break down the costs now.

Construction Materials:
5/8" x 4' x 8' melamine particle board: 4 x $33 = $132
50' (2 x 25') iron on siding: 2 x $11 = $22
1 sheet white Laminate panel board (for the back): $13
Construction Subtotal: $167
(2" drywall screws and foil tape are also needed, but I had both in my garage)

Plastic Bins:
Sterilite 41 qt bins: 10 x $8 = $80

Electrical:
Ranco Thermostat & power cord (incl. shipping): $71
5' FlexWatt & connectors (incl. shipping): $34
Power strip: $4
Electrical Subtotal: $109

Grand Total: $356

The melamine was cut to the following sizes:

2 - 35" x 72" (sides)
11 - 17" x 35" (levels)
1 - 3" x 17" (kick plate)

The panel board for the back was cut to 18 1/4" x 72".

Here are the cut pieces of melamine:


As far as construction goes, it was fairly simple. I marked a grid on the sides for drilling holes with a chalk line, and drilled holes accordingly. (Make sure to triple check your measurements before drilling. I only double checked this time, and I still managed to get it wrong, which was extremely frustrating, and cost me a couple hours).



After that, I got holes started on one side of each of the levels by lining them up with the sides and drilling through the holes that I already put there (This actually made it quite a bit easier when putting the rack together because I was able to stick small nails in the holes to hold up each level while connecting the other side).





And pretty much from that point on was assembly. I screwed the whole thing together by hand because I didn't want to risk messing up the holes with the drill. I put the kick plate in the bottom first (and used another piece I had cut the same size as the kick plate so I could line up the bottom level right and make sure it was square). The assembly of the bottom level took the longest, but after that it went fairly quickly...



...Until I noticed that my levels started to be a bit off with respect to the bin I was using. The first level I noticed this on was about 1/8" too high, then the next about 1/4" too high, and so on. So I took those couple of levels out, and instead used the bin and a clipboard as a spacer to get each level where I wanted it. (Next time I'll probably only pre-drill the bottom level, and just use the bin and a spacer to get a measurement, and drill the rest as I go to avoid this sort of screw-up again). The top level lined up perfectly, go figure. I later filled in the screw-up holes with caulk, which slightly masked them.

Using a bin to check and see that each level is the right height.


My blatantly obvious screw-up...


The next step was to connect the ends to the heat tape, and use the foil tape to secure that properly on to the back (only one side was laminated, so I faced that side forward). I was able to use 5' (which is actually a bit more than 5') of 11" FlexWatt for this rack. After that, I drilled the holes in the back and screwed it on (I used 1 1/4" screws I also had in my garage). Then I wired the thermostat, and made sure that was working properly, plugged the heat tape into it, and drilled a hole in the back on the 5th level down for the probe. Cleaned everything up, ironed the melamine edging on, put the bins in each level, and had myself a completed adult rack!

And here's the finished product:

Look, the holes are magically gone!


My 3 biggest girls moved in to their new homes (there's only about a 1/4" gap at the most above any bin).


I'll probably see if I can find white screw covers to sort of hide the screws on the sides.






For my first rack construction, I think I could have done worse. Thanks for looking!

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_Aes_Sidhe_ (08-05-2011),_AlexisFitzy_ (10-26-2014),_Artemisace_ (06-07-2015),_jben_ (02-06-2010),jplehmann (11-09-2014),_jsmorphs2_ (03-24-2012),_Powerspythons_ (08-06-2011),RJimison (11-03-2014),_shadowsnakes_ (07-27-2013),_steveboos_ (02-06-2010)

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## jben

Really nice write-up. i also built my own, feels good.

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## Russ Lawson

Thanks! Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'll continue to build more as I need them instead of buying them any more. I get a nice feeling of accomplishment when I get projects like this done. Plus it's nice to be able to build them to my specifications.

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_AlexisFitzy_ (11-12-2014)

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## Ralphieeeee

Nice rack  :Good Job:  I'm hoping to start building mine soon, but none of the Home Depot's around my area carry the 5/8" melamine  :Sad:  I'm going to see if I can special order it this week.

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## PyroPython

Not to mention building your own means no waiting for delivery! And you can customize to suit your needs.

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## Russ Lawson

> Nice rack  I'm hoping to start building mine soon, but none of the Home Depot's around my area carry the 5/8" melamine  I'm going to see if I can special order it this week.


That's odd, mine didn't have any of the 3/4" melamine, which is what I'd seen most other people working with; not that this bothered me since the 5/8" is just as sturdy, and in the end weighs less. Good luck finding some!

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## jben

i used 3/4", it's a little heavy : )

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## saber2th

That sure came out nice!   :Good Job:   That will be my next one that I build!

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## Herp_Herp_hooray

Good Job, we went for deep also!!!

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## DrLew

Honestly?  I think that little shelf area at the top is pretty handy!
Rack looks great!

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_AlexisFitzy_ (11-12-2014),tazmanbill (02-26-2010)

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## Russ Lawson

> Honestly?  I think that little shelf area at the top is pretty handy!
> Rack looks great!


Yeah, I'll soon be able to do away with a couple of small shelves I have in the snake room if I keep putting spots for storage on top of the racks. Then I'll have room for more racks!

Thanks for the complements everyone!

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## Animals As Leaders

Hey so would you say that this rack is going to be free from sagging in years to come?  I want to build this but just read a thread about melamine sagging after a while...whats the deal?

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## Russ Lawson

One of the reasons I built it deep was actually to prevent sagging. The main reason some do is because they have long pieces of melamine with no support in the middle. I have 4 screws in each side of each level. I highly doubt it will sag.

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jplehmann (11-25-2014)

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## mjmendoza

nice snake rack! im planning on building one in the near future too.

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## Homegrownscales

Nice! We just built out first which I'm pretty happy about. Everyone always says the first is the worst! But yours looks damn good so if thats the worst just imagine how the next will turn out. 


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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## Russ Lawson

> Nice! We just built out first which I'm pretty happy about. Everyone always says the first is the worst! But yours looks damn good so if thats the worst just imagine how the next will turn out.


Haha, I've since built another rack for 12 qt Iris boxes that holds 20, which I managed to do without screwing anything up. I'm picking up a Freedom Breeder rack here at Daytona though, since these melamine racks are godawful heavy and pretty difficult to move.

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## Aes_Sidhe

I think I'll steal that process to make my African House Snake rack... I'm to lazy but my favorite Rack Company RBI) making or 13qt or 32 qt racks.. nothing between... 13 is to small.. 32 is all right for Ol big female breeders... I wish the make something like 24 qt... 

Nice Job !!! Thanks for posting That  :Good Job:  :Good Job:  :Good Job:

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## Homegrownscales

I have a couple FB and I love them! Get some golf tees too and they work perfectly in the front and back holes as pins to prevent escapes. I have the dove tails on the back of
Mine. But in the front of them I have golf tees as locks. I havent had an escape and it assures I push them in tight enough. 


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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## favela245

is it hard to move around ?   very cool snake rack !

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## fLako0aGuiiLaR

Where did you get the heat tape?

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## CD CONSTRICTORS

Nice build!! I bet she is heavy though.

1/2" XPVC is readily available for ~$100 for a 4'x8' sheet. Two sheets will get you an 11 tub high 41qt rack using Sterilite tubs with enough left over to build a 24 tub hatchling rack.

Add $50 of heat tape, $25 for some 1" x 4" pine and you are set.

Two racks for under $300- just add your thermostats  :Wink:

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*bcr229* (11-03-2014)

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## zachbinger

Corey can you give me the dimensions of the cuts I want it to be a duel purpose rack tho 2 28qts or 1 41 per shelf

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## Solarsoldier001

That looks awesome. That double possibility is pretty good idea 


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## CD CONSTRICTORS

> Corey can you give me the dimensions of the cuts I want it to be a duel purpose rack tho 2 28qts or 1 41 per shelf


11 high rack using 28qt Sterlite tubs..... you can get 12 pieces out of one sheet cut at 15 7/8" x 23 3/4" and not much left over for scrap.....

11 high rack using 41qt sterlite tubs.... you can get 12 pieces 15 7/8" x 35" for the 41qt rack and have twelve 13' x 16' pieces left over to make a 22 tub hatchling rack.

25' of 4" THG will be plenty for all 11 tubs for either rack. Get some aluminum foil tape at Lowes.... $7 a roll for like 100yds. Vertical supports are 1' x 4" appearance grade pine.... eight 6' pieces are all you need. 2 on the back, 3 on each side. I screw the back side pieces into the back pieces to make a good corner support in the back.

Do not pay attention to the dimensions listed on the tubs themselves..... that is with the lid on. For perfect spacing of the shelves I cut 2 pieces of 1/8" luan sheeting. Place one on the shelf.... put the tub on top of it.... lay the second piece of luan on top of the tub and then the next shelf on top of that. Screw in place.... I used 1 1/2" fine thread drywall screws. It is easiest to drill a pilot hole through the frame supports and into the XPVC.... that way the wood will not split when you tighten the screws. I use a level when assembling each shelf to ensure equal spacing for the entire rack.

Just make a frame for under the first shelf with 2" x 4" pine. Screw the first shelf to the framing making sure you countersink any screws that may run under the heat tape. I place duct tape over any screws near the heat tape just in case.... Murphy's Law applies here!!

I screwed in 2" caster wheels on each corner on the bottom of the 2" x 4" frame. Place the wheels on when you are COMPLETELY done with the rack assembly... running heat tape and all. It's a pain to chase the rack around while trying to assemble the shelves and run heat tape... lol!!

Hope you have a good cordless drill!! I have a 18v Rigid hammer drill/screw gun and it can't quite assemble one rack on a single battery if you drill pilot holes first. Dual 18v batteries for the win  :Good Job: 

XPVC= $98 a sheet
2" x 4" x 8' for the frame= $3
(8) 1" x 4" x 6' pine= $40
(4) 2" caster wheels= $16
25ft of THG= $50
Drywall screws= $5

Tally for a 28qt rack is $212 + T-Stat of your choice.... 41qt rack is slightly more at $350 only if you build a hatchling rack as well with the 13" x 16" XPVC pieces leftover (you need more THG, caster wheels and wood for the supports). If you buy 10ft pieces of 1" x 4" supports you will have enough left to have supports for the hatchling rack...... measure twice, cut once!!

I was going to video a build of one shelf, but it is so simple I didn't think it was necessary. If you can't build one of these racks, you shouldn't breed bp's  :Wink: 

Stay tuned for the incubator build..... 3 sheets of XPVC turned into a 18" x 36" x 72" incubator that will hold 48 clutches  :Very Happy:

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## AlexisFitzy

> Thanks! Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'll continue to build more as I need them instead of buying them any more. I get a nice feeling of accomplishment when I get projects like this done. Plus it's nice to be able to build them to my specifications.


This is probably one of my favorite write ups on a 41qt rack. There are not many of them where people are building an enclosed rack. Which is what I prefer because it holds heat much better in the winter time. I also like the added security and look of it much better. Thanks so much for sharing this with is I will definitely use this as a reference whenever I start building mine. I'll just be using a much lighter material lol.

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## Stewart_Reptiles

Do you deliver? lol

Looking sharp!

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_AlexisFitzy_ (11-12-2014)

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## Foolish1

Did you cut the 1/8 sheets to provide a 1/4 space between each tub and shelf.  Like you added them, screwed in then removed to ensure there was a gap.  I just ordered 12 snakes and I want to build this rack.  Could I make a 12th shelf and still have enough heat tape. Also since I am getting few month old snakes.  Can I use the 411 with a divider in them so they don't get stressed from too much space.  Do you only need one thermostat for the whole rack.  Thanks for your help.

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