# Miscellaneous Herp Interests > Photography >  Basic Photography for Dummies like Me

## Ax01

*Hiya peeps! I wanna get better a photography so I can take better pix of my snakes and stuff. I'm new to this. Have a read, have a laugh, let me know what u think! I have a ton of questions. Thank u all in advance!  




And this is the layout:



The Os are the lights I used, with the red triangles as the light being cast into the light tent.
*-- Is the positioning ok from the top view? Where would u place the lights?
-- If the angle, pointing slightly down, ok from the side view?*

The Xs on the side are just available lights I have that I did not use.
*-- Should I use them? Are they necessary?
-- Should they be on the side of the subject/tent? The side walls of the light tent is white and pourous to let light in. Or more light is needed in front?*

The blue directional arrows is the area in which I moved the camera to take shots.
*-- Does lighting need to change depending on how the camera is held and where?*

The squiggly line thing is of course my snake. She was pretty much in the center of the tent.
*-- Is this proper positioning?*

Anyway this is my gear:
*-- 24x24inch light tent with various color backdrops
-- 2 600 Lumen LED spotlights (Os)
-- I also have 2 halogen lights available (Xs)
-- I am using a Lytro Illum camera that has 8x optical zoom (with a constant f/2 aperture and 1:3 amcro whatever that means).*

I got a Lytro b/c I hope to get somewhat good at photography to create living pictures. My other cameras would be the first generation Lytro, a Samsung point and shoot and my iphone.

Also other dumb, noob questions:
What is a recommended, general camera setting for all conditions? (i.e. exposure, white balance, aperture, etc.) should I just keep my cameras default setting? I just wanna have the camera set to something that would work well everywhere until I get a better grasp on photography.*

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## Ax01

Feedback on pictures:


*Im glad I got a flicking tongue and clear headshot in this pix, but the rest of it is just out of focus.*



*Why do I still have shadows?*



None of these photos have been processed BTW. *How much refocusing and lighting edits can I do I processing?
*
if these pix are somewhat nice, it's just b/c i got lucky.   :Embarassed:

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## Lizardlicks

One thing you might wan to play around with is light diffusion. Take a look at other set ups and notice how most of the constant lighting is behind screens.  This softens your lighting and gets rid of dramatic shadows.  Of course, dramatic shadows can be fun to play with too!  It's all an artistic experiment and there is no wrong way to do art.

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_Ax01_ (01-22-2016),_Chkadii_ (01-22-2016)

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## AKA Dave

I'll admit I'm not familiar with that camera but it sounds like a point a shoot and not a DSLR.  There should be a way to manually do things like change your aperture and ISO.  Manual focus helps too, but it's not necessary.  To be honest I don't use it most of the time.  I'd rather focus on composition than tracking a moving snake.  

Let's look at this as an example.



I took this shot of Butters when he was just over 300g.  This was an unconventional yet successful setup too.  I shot it with my Canon 7D with a 28-135 f/3.5-f/5.6 lens and simply used a large piece of pasteboard curved at the rear as a background.  I also used my EX flash.  I forget the model number right now, but it's a 400 series.  I cranked the ISO to 3000 and used an f/5.0 and a shutter speed of 1/250th and an almost full zoom to get this.  Not bad!  Good whites and a small DOF (depth of field) without being overly shallow.  I guess what I'm saying here is that you don't need to over think it and get fancy with your setup.  I tend to shoot aperture priority in these scenarios unless I bring out my strobes.  Then I shoot full manual with an ISO of 100 and an f-stop of f/4 or f/5.6.  I'll let the light meter tell me what shutter speed to use to get the exposure I want at that point.  I'll shoot some like that later today to show you the difference.

What I suggest now is put a prop in your lightbox and turn on the LEDs and mess with the manual settings if you can find them in your camera.  Get it so it looks right after you take the shot and write those numbers down.  Then you'll be set next time you want to shoot the kids.

To answer some of your other questions.  You should not have to move your lights unless they are in the way of your shot.  Every time you move the light your are potentially affecting the exposure.  The side lighting can be nice to "washout" the wrinkles of backdrops or for rim lighting effects.  Make sense?  Let me know if you need clarification or want to bounce some ideas around.

Dave

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_Ax01_ (01-22-2016)

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## Ax01

@Lizardlicks - yes, i think i can do diffused lighting from the sides (not the back) as the cloth material on the sides are porous. i'll see what happens.

@Dave - thanks! yes, the camera has manual and auto settings. it has some regular buttons and alotta soft buttons on it's reticulated touchscreen. it can zoom and focus using 2 separate rotating ring thingies (i dont' know what they're called) on it's giant lens. i'll try the ISO and other settings u use and see how it goes. then fiddle with it and write down the combos i like (that's a really helpful tip).\

the camera doesn't have a flash tho. lol that's another $300 accessory i don't have. it's this interesting thing.



i try it on some props and outside around town.

also i look forward to your pix from today's shoot.   :Smile: 

@everyone - keep those ideas coming.

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## redshepherd

(replying to your private message!) 

I can give some random comments, but I really have no idea when it comes to setting up a spot with the lights, backdrop, and all. I'm the same as you when it comes to that, just playing around with various lights, types of lights, maybe some DIY reflectors like aluminum foil (?) to use as lighting instead of the lamp directly, and different angles.

I mostly just do candid shots with natural lighting, and I find that using natural sunlight coming in through windows at an angle (so diffused light) makes the best photos and easiest to enhance around in Photoshop afterward. Also, overcast/cloudy days are the best to take advantage of for that soft lighting, especially outdoors (no harsh shadows anywhheerree). 

Also, that is one interesting looking camera, wowie! It looks like a super fancy point and shoot.

There isn't really a "setting to practice with in all occasions" if you're wanting to learn about DSLR's, except for... the default setting LOL. But just diving in and trying out the different zooms, apertures, and exposures and getting a feel for how those affect the image as you go are what's going to work in the end! Also, the right type of lens for what kind of image you're trying to get is probably 95% of it, unfortunately aahaha. :I

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_Ax01_ (01-23-2016)

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## ratchet

That is an interesting thing! Wow, pretty neat camera! 
A flash will help fill in the shadows, but going with what Lizardlicks said, you want to try and diffuse the light to get rid of the harsh shadows that direct light will cast. I find that some flashes tend to wash out the subject a little bit, but not all the time (I've never really gotten into using a flash, but that's just me not utilizing it properly, I'd imagine, haha.) If you have the two lights in front shining in to the centre from either side, one light can help fill in any shadows that the other will cast. Your depth of field will increase and the background won't be so blurry if you use a smaller aperture, but it sounds like the constant f/2 means you can't choose another aperture? Wasn't sure about that detail but if you can't pick a smaller aperture than that, you'll have the blurry backgrounds.

Good luck, can't wait to see how you play around with the setup!  :Smile: 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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_Ax01_ (01-23-2016)

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## Solarsoldier001

Getting pictures like this isn't hard. 

You need more light what you have right now is light but not enough. My pictures would come out dim like that. 

Then you have to do the white balance. Pretty much if you take a picture of a index card or a white paper and set it as you white balance you are telling your camera this is what white is. It helps take better pictures especially when your animal you are trying to photography is all white. 

I'm no pro but that is what I have learn so far. 

The fuzzy is because you depth of field is small. Pretty much you are telling you camera you want the focus to only be 5 cm from the center and blur out pass that point. You just need to change your depth of field. Which is labeled f4.0 or could be less or more depending on your lens 



It's fund taking picture once you get the lightening and mechanics rights. I wish you luck can't wait to see the pictures you have in stored for us 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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_Ax01_ (01-23-2016)

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## Billy305

Try putting the lights on the outside of the light tent and possibly one more diffused light on top. Not straight on from the same direction as the camera. A diffused light on each side and top will greatly help soften the shadows

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_Ax01_ (01-23-2016)

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## Jeanne

I am a photographer. My suggestion would be to use a darker color background like black on white type snakes or lighter snakes to show off their true color. When using white background it tends to make your white animal show more yellow because most whites are blue hue that are "man made". Furthermore, dark background such as black matte is what you want with any unless you are shooting a darker snake. White background sets off a dark snakes colors. Get a card board box and take the top and front piece out, spray paint w black matte/white matte to make a photo box setup to also help keep your snake in one area rather than being able to slither off easily while your hands are busy. I find photos boxes work nicely for reptiles. Lighting, You will have to experiment with to see what you like. Have fun with it! 😀

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_Ax01_ (01-23-2016)

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## Jeanne

I think U guys are doing an awesome job figuring your gear out!

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## Ax01

thanks everyone.   :Smile: 




> I mostly just do candid shots with natural lighting...




wow, u still get alotta light.    :Cool:   your photos are always on point and look great!




> Your depth of field will increase and the background won't be so blurry if you use a smaller aperture, but it sounds like the constant f/2 means you can't choose another aperture? Wasn't sure about that detail but if you can't pick a smaller aperture than that, you'll have the blurry backgrounds.


aahh ok, i'll adjust the aperture. thanks. i don't know what all the lingo means.   :Embarassed: 




> Getting pictures like this isn't hard. 
> 
> You need more light what you have right now is light but not enough. My pictures would come out dim like that. 
> 
> Then you have to do the white balance. Pretty much if you take a picture of a index card or a white paper and set it as you white balance you are telling your camera this is what white is. It helps take better pictures especially when your animal you are trying to photography is all white. 
> 
> I'm no pro but that is what I have learn so far. 
> 
> The fuzzy is because you depth of field is small. Pretty much you are telling you camera you want the focus to only be 5 cm from the center and blur out pass that point. You just need to change your depth of field. Which is labeled f4.0 or could be less or more depending on your lens 
> ...


great tips. thank u so much! i love your Calico's and animals. and your light tent photos and was hoping u would chime in. thanks again.





> Also, that is one interesting looking camera, wowie! It looks like a super fancy point and shoot.





> That is an interesting thing! Wow, pretty neat camera!


it's an interesting camera with a cult following. i also have the original which looks like a telescope.



i got the other one i posted for 50% off their original MSRP, but u can get them between $400-$500 in some places now. it's been sitting on my shelf for months b/c I don't know what to do with it. Lol

visit the Lytro website and check out their gallery. i hope to make living/re-zoomable pix like the ones their camera owners posted someday. really cool stuff.

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_Solarsoldier001_ (01-23-2016)

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## AKA Dave

> @Dave - also i look forward to your pix from today's shoot.  
> 
> @everyone - keep those ideas coming.


I lost power in the storm and just got it back tonight.  I'll try and shoot tomorrow.

Dave

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## ama1997

Shooting with continuous lights makes it hard to freeze motion. If you want to soften it up. There are some DIY solutions out there that might help.  I always recommend getting proper lights, and a background kit.. But the light tents do work with proper lighting, and setup. A studio strobe, or speed-light type of flash with a proper light modifier will produce better light than the continuous lights.  For most of my snake shoots I use a single Paul C Buff AlienBeesB800 in a 24inch beauty dish. Directly over the subject. I use a roll of white, or black paper for my background. I dont use any tents, or anything like that. If I need light from the side Ill either grab a reflector, or setup another light.  You can get a decent little flash, with 24, or 32 inch umbrella, and a 6 foot light stand for pretty cheap.  Thats a basic kit, but a bit more flexible than a set of continuous lights and a tent. Another thing get the light off camera. If you are using any on camera flash. Most of those small flashes produce very harsh light. In the picture shown.  As for the general recommended settings. There really isn't a one setting fits all type of thing here.. Make sure your whitebalance is set to whatever kind of light you are shooting in. That will help. 

Light, light, and light,  but not harsh, unless thats what you're going for. Even shooting in front of a nice big window on an overcast day works well. Here is a great site to learn how a camera works, and what the shutter, aperture, and ISO do. Along with how changing them will effect things, and when you change them.  https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/

Here is an example. Shot with the Fujifilm Xpro2 with a single Alienbees B800 light above in a 24 inch beauty dish with the diffusion sock on. Shot on a simple white background.

BP-18-0022-4 by Shannon Donoho, on Flickr

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