# Other Pythons > Blood Pythons >  Can't Decide - Need Help - Boa or Sumatran Short Tail Python

## Squirtle44

Hi everyone,

I have been keeping 3 ball pythons for the last year. I absolutely love them. But I want to take a step towards a more intermediate snake, in terms of both size and husbandry (but mostly size). I am currently very torn between 1) a Sumatran Short Tailed Python and 2) a Common BCI Boa.

I absolutely love the looks of all black Sumatran short tails. My hesitation is that their husbandry is difficult and less forgiving in the way of temps and humidity, but more so, that they are not great handling snakes.

I like boa's a lot - but I am a bit concerned with just how big they get.

So my goal is to move to something larger than balls - but I really want a friendly snake which I can hang out with and handle a lot. I know that temperament varies a lot animal to animal even within species, but I wanted to post this specifically under the blood python section to see if someone has or has had a Sumatran Short Tailed python which was a very good handling snake. I like the Sumatran Short tail more in terms of look and size, but my #1 goal here is to move up in size and have an awesome handling snake that I can completely trust (with proper attention, care and caution of course).

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## Bluebonnet Herp

I'd probably get a boa if I were you. My blood can be a bit interesting at times - and by that, I surely mean edgy - but boas are a much better trip to handle. 
Boas in general are easier to handle. On average, they _usually_ have a better temperament, although most CB bloods/short tails are nowhere near as mean as what's commonly believed. Regardless, short tailed pythons/bloods require more careful handling to support their weight, whereas a boa will be content to wrap around you and support its own weight.
An edgy or legitimately agitated short tail/blood python can be very intimidating for the novice. In addition, a bite from one of them will most likely cause more damage than a boa bite. 
Boas get longer than short tails/bloods on average, but will not be as heavy. There's also more boas that are naturally mellow. However, both snakes are relatively lazy - neither a boa nor a blood/short tail will move around as much as your ball pythons. A mellow specimen of either species can be a great next step up. But making a mistake with a short tail/blood python is slightly more costly than if were one to make a mistake with a boa. Boas are usually calmer than bloods/short tails on average, so I'd say the boa would be a safer bet as an introduction to medium sized boids.

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-16-2017),Gio (08-16-2017),_KevinK_ (10-11-2017),_L.West_ (08-17-2017)

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## bcr229

There are several dwarf/locality BI's that stay fairly small.  Tarahumaras are the smallest - my adult females will never outgrow their 41-qt tubs.  Just make sure they are pure so you know what to expect as they mature.  This site has an excellent writeup on them: http://cuttingedgeherp.com/

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-16-2017),Gio (08-16-2017),_L.West_ (08-17-2017)

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## Gio

> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have been keeping 3 ball pythons for the last year. I absolutely love them. But I want to take a step towards a more intermediate snake, in terms of both size and husbandry (but mostly size). I am currently very torn between 1) a Sumatran Short Tailed Python and 2) a Common BCI Boa.
> 
> I absolutely love the looks of all black Sumatran short tails. My hesitation is that their husbandry is difficult and less forgiving in the way of temps and humidity, but more so, that they are not great handling snakes.
> 
> I like boa's a lot - but I am a bit concerned with just how big they get.
> 
> So my goal is to move to something larger than balls - but I really want a friendly snake which I can hang out with and handle a lot. I know that temperament varies a lot animal to animal even within species, but I wanted to post this specifically under the blood python section to see if someone has or has had a Sumatran Short Tailed python which was a very good handling snake. I like the Sumatran Short tail more in terms of look and size, but my #1 goal here is to move up in size and have an awesome handling snake that I can completely trust (with proper attention, care and caution of course).


Both will be larger than the royals you keep and you obviously know that.
Now, if you want something very different from the royal, a boa constrictor is the way to go IMO.

Here's why; Both the royal python and the short tailed group are very terrestrial. The short tail is even more grounded than a "busy" royal. 

I love the looks of the bloods and shorties but I like something that displays and handles well.

Boa constrictors are classed as terrestrial, but they should be re classed as semi arboreal. There are several wild observations of them lounging and hunting in trees. I'm even speaking about large boa. My near 7 foot male is always using perches and typically hunts/feeds from his perches.
If you go boa, set up the caging so you are able to observe behaviors that they would display in the wild. Some ceiling space 18" or more will make for a nice display. I have 20" of ceiling and wish I had 2-3 feet.

"Common boa" is typically thought of as a Colombian boa. I find that to be fairly unsupported these days without any locality data. A common boa              (Boa Constrictor Imperator, BCI, BI) can be Colombian mixed with about anything. There are some large BI, but there are also boa imperator that come from islands. The typical common boa can be drab and colorless. Its not bad, but you like the "look" of the shortie.

There are ALL kinds of boa that are colorful and not expensive. Morphs obviously and some real locality boa constrictors. I haven't even mentioned Boa Constrictor Constrictor (BCC, BC) 

This is my male. He's 5 years old, close to 7 feet, probably 6.5 feet. Heavy, but not too heavy, busy and pleasant.

This is a locality animal. It is a Barranquilla Colombian boa constrictor. This locale is said to posses traits of BCI and BCC and according to Vincent Russo is what a natural cross of the two species would look like in the wild.

 He was produced by Gus Rentfro of Rio Bravo Reptiles (no longer in business) and sold to me by Legacy Reptiles. Legacy is still in business and produces these. They are not off the charts expensive, though they are more than the typical "common boa".


They are a very different handling experience when compared to bloods or royals. As mentioned above, a boa will wrap tight and hang out with you. I enjoy handling the boa we have here over the retic, carpet python and royal python.

Boas "feel good" when you handle them IMO.



Now with that said, I'd love a shortie here because I think one would be a good lap snake. They are one of the most, if not the most, thickset pythons out there when you take into consideration their length and girth. A 5.5 foot well fed shortie will look very impressive.

Ultimately you will have to decide. I just wanted to help a little by giving you some info and share my experiences with the boa I have. 

The activity level and display potential are IMO, more rewarding. I also feel they handle as good as any snake, possible one of the easiest of all larger snakes to handle.

Check a boa or two out, find a locality, or morph, or a "mutt" nothing wrong with mutts my carpet python is a costal mutt LOL!

Good luck and keep us posted.

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-16-2017)

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## artgecko

Boa!  Seriously fun and great snakes... I have three.  If size is a concern, get a male and go with a smaller locality... a "Central American", Nicaraguan, hog island, BCL (longicauda), or Mexican (terrahumara or Sonoran) would be smaller than a common BCI.  Most common male BCI stay around 6' or a little smaller, but some can get larger.  With all of the localities I mentioned, make sure they have correct lineage... You don't want to think your boa will get 4' when it will actually reach 8' because it was in reality a cross with something that you didn't know about. 

I personally have a hypo male BCI (common boa), a male BCA (amarali), and a male motley Central American.  The motley CA is definitely staying smaller than either of the others (with regular feeding).  

I would recommend buying from a breeder (not a store or re-seller) and asking for a calmer individual.  Some of the smaller localities can be nippier at first, so it is best to ask if you are set on a calm easy-going snake.  All 3 of mine are calm as can be (except on feeding night) and none of them even hissed at me when being unboxed.

Short tails are beautiful snakes, but are less active and need higher humidity.  They can be tame, but are on the whole less tame than most boas.  They are not as active and have to be handled correctly...don't like to climb, so it is best to support most of their bodies and hold them while sitting, etc.  If you do get one, go CBB and preferably purchase from a breeder that has handled them some and can pick a calmer one for you... and a male would stay smaller / lighter.

Boa pics! (just because I can lol) 

Kirby, Hypo BCI


Jax, south Brazilian BCA

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-16-2017)

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## artgecko

Forgot to add, if you want a very dark snake, you can look into Anery BCL (longicauda) they get very dark and stay thinner / shorter than common BCI... They are hard to find though and not cheap, but drop dead gorgeous.

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## Aedryan Methyus

Hi Squirtle,
How are you currently housing and heating your Ball Pythons? If you are keeping them in a rack system with tubs and using a single thermostat with heat tape, one consideration is, you could house and heat a Boa in the same rack with your Ball Pythons. The care and husbandry of Bloods and Short Tails is every bit as simple as Ball Pythons. The only difference is they like it much cooler on the hot side (80 - 83 degrees), so they wouldn't be able to share housing and heating with your Ball Pythons. They also like more humidity than Ball Pythons. That is only a simple matter of providing a large water dish in their enclosures and misting the enclosure down every day or two...

As far as the temperament of Bloods and Short Tails, all I can tell you from my experience is, I have a pair of Bloods, a pair of Borneos and a pair of Sumatrans and pretty much every one of them have acted schizo at some point. I have noted recently that my males definitely seem to have much more unbalanced temperaments and are much more moody than my females for some reason. Have any of you other Blood/Short Tail keepers noticed this, as well? All of mine are only 2015's and 2016's, so I don't have any experience with adults yet. But, most of the other more experienced keepers seem to say that they tame down significantly with age (especially after their first year) with regular handling. My big 2015 Matrix girl put on one hell of a show for about the first 4 - 6 weeks I had her every time I tried to handle her. But, strangely, she has never actually tried to bite even during that time period. Since then her temperament has been very balanced. I guess I would describe her as, "apprehensive". She basically remains completely motionless when handling her and no matter what, she always has to have her head turned around staring directly at my face at all times. It is sketchy and intimidating as hell to say the least, but other than that she is a pretty good girl. My 2015 Matrix boy has been good for the most part. There was really only one incident with him, where I was holding him and he suddenly threw himself out of my hands and across the room trying to bite my daughter... lol One other time he was huffy and hissy when I went to take him out. Other than those two incidents he has been a pretty sweet boy. Just a little jumpy when you're touching him... My 2016 Sumatrans both also put on quite a show for the first 4 - 6 weeks when I tried to handle them. They have both been very sweet ever since except recently the male started acting schizo again when I go to get him out. He just starts throwing his whole body around then sits there twitching. Once I get him out he is fine. The female is a total sweetheart and out of all my Bloods and Short Tails, she is definitely the one I trust most. My Marble Borneos have been sweet as can be since day one until recently the male stated acting completely schizo when I go to take him out. He also throws his whole body around then just sits there twitching and acting like he is completely miserable. He is also fine once I get him out. The female has still never been anything less than a total sweetheart so far...




> neither a boa nor a blood/short tail will move around as much as your ball pythons.




That is true of Bloods and Short Tails for the most part, but i'm not sure why you say that about Boas, though... Any Boa I have ever owned or handled was much more active, attentive and inquisitive than any Ball Python...

Currently, I am working with 6 different species of constrictors and I love all of them to death! Each species (and each individual snake) have their own unique traits, characteristics and behaviors. But, if I ever had to choose only one species to work with I would still have to go with Boas. They're great eaters, simple to care for, even tempered and reach a larger, yet manageable size. I also feel that they have the most personality and are the most enjoyable to handle. If you decide to go with a Boa and you want one that will most likely stay on the smaller side, I would definitely recommend going with a BI instead of a BC and I would get a male. If you decide to go with a Blood or Short Tail, Sumatrans are the smallest of the three species and Bloods are the largest. Either way, you will ultimately have a 20 - 40 pound beast as an adult. It would be impossible to say, which of the three has the best temperament. It really depends on the individual snake...

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask any other specific questions you may have to help you in your decision...

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Gio (08-16-2017)

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## Goode05

SSTP not even a question 


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## Sauzo

Boa hands down. Boas are lap snakes for sure. I wouldn't let size on a boa be your determining factor as it take years for them to grow since they grow as fast as paint dries lol. Get a baby and even if it gets 6'+, it will still seem like your baby as you will be so used to it.

And as for temperament, boas are mellow once they are settled in for the most part. Like any animal, there are feisty ones. But if you look at my sig, all my boas are complete loungers and I just reach in and drag them out no problem. They don't care lol. I can even grab their heads and they sit there or at most if they are cranky, will move their head.

And like Artgecko said, if you want black, get a Peruvian Longtail boa. I got a yearling who is already darkening up nicely and he's not even visual anery, only het anery. Het anerys can get very dark still. For example here is mom who is a het anery from Vin Russo


And dad who is a visual anery from Legacy Reptiles.


So as you see, even a het anery can be dark.

Anyways, I've never had a blood python but I love boas.

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Gio (08-16-2017)

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## Gio

_Quote Originally Posted by Bluebonnet Herp  View Post
neither a boa nor a blood/short tail will move around as much as your ball pythons.
_

Is this a joke?

I don't know how anybody to come to this conclusion (for boa constrictors) unless they are involved in completely over feeding the animal. I guess that is very possible since most over feed their boas.

Again, if you are looking at the natural habits and biology of royals you will find they are solitary, very shy and typically burrow in holes.

They are not semi arboreal, like boas, although some will climb small shrubs they are small and not high on the food chain in nature. 

Royal pythons may be more active than shorties and bloods, but there is simply no comparison to a properly fed boa constrictor. Keep in mind boas will be less active in winter months if you appropriately reduce cage temps and reduce or skip feeding altogether during winter.

Boas are hands down more active than royal pythons. There may be a few exceptions but that is rare. A full grown boa has very few enemies in nature. They are close to the top of the food chain in their natural habitat.

Boa constrictors almost always eat and that's where folks get into a jam. Looking hungry and wanting food should not equal an automatic feeding day. If you stuff anything to the gills it will become sluggish and have no reason to move. Boa need to go through a feast and famine situation. Most snakes do, but boas will actively, hunt and climb high into the canopy if they need to to get food.

Lazy boas are simply over fed animals. 

9 times out of 10 you will hear people that own both species say the boa is far more active than the royal. I'm one of them.

No knock on royals. A comfy, hiding royal is a happy, content snake usually.

Of the 4 species of snakes we have here, the royal is BY FAR the least active. The carpet python is the most active, the boa constrictor is second, and the newer retic is in the number three spot. There is simply no comparison and I hear that constantly from others that own both.

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-16-2017)

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## Gio

BTW
I agree with about everything Blebonnet said except the part about boas being lazy and less active than royals.  

I like the post but must have missed the part saying that. 

I actually got into boas because they are larger and more active than royals. 

Again, I agree with the post except that particular part and mean no offense by disagreeing with it. I'm just very surprised that conclusion could be made. 

I'm speaking of activity in the cage and out as well.

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## Squirtle44

Thank you everyone for the replies so far. All the information is beyond appreciated. I am leaning towards a boa given how I really can't find anyone that has bloods or short-tails to come out and say they fully trust their snakes and that they are really good handling snakes.

Another question about boas - given they are semi-arboreal - can you not keep them in plastic tubs?

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## bcr229

> Another question about boas - given they are semi-arboreal - can you not keep them in plastic tubs?


You can and boas do very well in tubs.  You can certainly use larger ones with more height if you want to give them room to climb.

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## Squirtle44

> You can and boas do very well in tubs.  You can certainly use larger ones with more height if you want to give them room to climb.



Okay great. Thank you. I just wanted to make sure that it is not mean or cruel to keep in them in a tub without much height given that they are semi-arboreal.

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## Miranda2

I vote for boa. I love love love my boas. A Blood python is just a bigger, fatter ball python :Razz: ..

I dont know if there is anything to it but Ive heard that bigger boas dont do well in tubs and get bad nose rubs.Just something I read.

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## Aedryan Methyus

> Thank you everyone for the replies so far. All the information is beyond appreciated. I am leaning towards a boa given how I really can't find anyone that has bloods or short-tails to come out and say they fully trust their snakes and that they are really good handling snakes.
> 
> Another question about boas - given they are semi-arboreal - can you not keep them in plastic tubs?


Appropriate size tubs are fine for about the first 2 years. In my opinion, I feel that once they reach around 4' and up they should be moved into larger display type enclosures that are at least 48" x 24" x 18". Though, 72" x 24" x 18" would be best, in my opinion... As a general rule, an enclosure's combined length + depth should be no less than a snake's length. So, for instance; a 48" x 24" enclosure would be just big enough for a 6' snake. That would be fine for most male BCI's, but a female will most likely exceed 6'. My 2 year old male BCI's skin measured 4 1/2' the last time he shed a couple of months ago. He is still in a 41 Qt. rack at the moment, but I feel like he should already be in a 48" x 24" enclosure. As big as he is already at only 2 years, I feel like he will most likely need a 72" x 48" by the time he's done growing...

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## artgecko

You can keep smaller locality boas and smaller male BCI (common boas) in large tubs their whole life...I'm think the Iris "christmas tree" type tubs that are 4'x2'x18".  I keep my boas in racks or tubs until they hit around 3.5', then I move them up to pvc cages that are at least 4'x2' in footprint. 

I had my male BCA in a tub that was 3.5' x 18"x 18" from the time I got him (he was about 2.5' long) until he reached about 4'.. Then he got moved up to a pvc cage.  While he was in the tub, I gave him a branch to climb on, which he used.  My other male hypo BCI was housed in a CB70 rack tub until he hit about 3.5' and did fine in the rack, but I feel he would have used more height and climbing places if given the opportunity.  

I'd say if you want to house in a short tub (at least until it gets larger) that will be fine, but plan on taking out the boa regularly to allow it to exercise.  

About the STP, you may want to post on a STP group on FB or on a forum and get more opinions.. There are not a lot of STP keepers here, so you have a small pool of people to get opinions from.

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-17-2017),Squirtle44 (08-18-2017)

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## Squirtle44

> You can keep smaller locality boas and smaller male BCI (common boas) in large tubs their whole life...I'm think the Iris "christmas tree" type tubs that are 4'x2'x18".  I keep my boas in racks or tubs until they hit around 3.5', then I move them up to pvc cages that are at least 4'x2' in footprint. 
> 
> I had my male BCA in a tub that was 3.5' x 18"x 18" from the time I got him (he was about 2.5' long) until he reached about 4'.. Then he got moved up to a pvc cage.  While he was in the tub, I gave him a branch to climb on, which he used.  My other male hypo BCI was housed in a CB70 rack tub until he hit about 3.5' and did fine in the rack, but I feel he would have used more height and climbing places if given the opportunity.  
> 
> I'd say if you want to house in a short tub (at least until it gets larger) that will be fine, but plan on taking out the boa regularly to allow it to exercise.  
> 
> About the STP, you may want to post on a STP group on FB or on a forum and get more opinions.. There are not a lot of STP keepers here, so you have a small pool of people to get opinions from.


Do you know of any short tail python specific forums - I can't seem to find any.

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## Aedryan Methyus

Search groups on Facebook for "Blood Pythons"... Here is one group:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/bloodpythons/?ref=br_rs

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## Aedryan Methyus

By the way, if you have fallen in love with the Sumatrans like I did, I say go for it! They are beautiful creatures and I love mine to death! As I mentioned, out of all my Bloods, Borneos and Sumatrans, my female Sumatran is the sweetest and most even tempered of them all. That is not to say they are all alike, though. With regular, proper handling I think most Bloods, Borneos and Sumatrans will tame out just fine. Pretty much anyone will tell you that some are just nasty and evil as hell, though. But, I think that is true with any species of snakes. I definitely recommend hook training with these guys even more than any other species. Don't use the hook to pick it up, but rather just touch the snake with it to let it know you're there and that you don't have food. Then just keep the hook between it's head and your hand while you're picking it up. One other important thing i've learned is to never show fear, intimidation or or hesitation with these guys. Pick them right up with confidence and sorta let them know that you're the boss. If they sense that you're scared they can definitely put on quite a show! lol Use gloves for the first few handlings if that's what it takes. Also, a 4' x 2' pvc enclosure will ultimately be best for an adult Sumatran...

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Squirtle44 (08-18-2017)

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## Gio

Again. this comes down to what you want in your new snake.

Blood or short tailed pythons are not a big departure from royals. They just aren't when it comes to natural behaviors. 

Size is not a huge consideration between the two. While the blood/shorts are very thickset, actually one of the most thickset pythons there is when length is considered, that does not make them more dense or heavy compared to an equally long boa constrictor. 

Boas are one of the most dense snakes out there. It explains why anacondas which are in the boa family but not boa constrictors, are the heaviest snakes on the planet.

Though they may be extremely dense and strong, pound for pound and inch for inch, they are quite agile and VERY different from completely terrestrial snakes.

Again, no knock on bloods/shorties (I want one someday) they just don't naturally perform the same behaviors boas do.

I see this almost nightly or every morning.


Its hard to explain the excitement. Snakes are not active pets compared to most but seeing activity like this, at least for me is rather exhilarating.


He's actually a fairly busy reptile in the evening, night or early morning.


Would I enjoy a blood or STP? You bet! They are beautiful and interesting to me more so than royals.

But if you are looking for something that behaves differently and looks unique compared to your current selection of royals, you should consider a boa constrictor.



That said, if you are not able to or willing to set up the snake (boa constrictor) to display natural, wild behaviors like climbing and perching, it may not show much more variation in behavior than what you have with your current animals.

I'd like to see you get something you want, but I also would like to see you allow whatever species you end up with to be presented with options to display some natural behaviors.

If caring for and maintaining a blood/shortie is easier go for it.

If you are willing to provide a little cage height for a boa constrictor, you will be rewarded. Keep in mind, the smaller island variants are typically more arboreal, and require less all around space on the floor. I think a 4' x 2' x 2' cage for a Central American BC would be a remarkable display.
If you like activity, this is typical boa constrictor out of cage behavior.

I highly doubt you'll see a blood or shortie doing this.

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## Sauzo

To sum it up. Research both species for their needs and see which one you can meet better. Also it comes down to which one YOU like more. I mean personally, I really dont care for blood pythons. They just look like a oversized less morph version of a BP. Now if you listened to me, you would have a boa but again, that is MY opinion. 

The only person who can answer your question is you really since it will be your snake for years to come.

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## Gio

Like I said a couple of times already, it is what you want, but for you to decide I feel it is helpful to give you some of the contrasting characteristics of other snakes. Bloods and balls share a lot of the same terrestrial habits. If that's what you want, it is a no brainer for a STP or blood.

Another snake I didn't even delve into that I would recommend is the he carpet python!

Lengthwise they are similar to boas, some are longer but almost all are far less girthy and heavy which is true of most snakes of equal length when compared to boa constrictors.

Boas are dense and muscular and impressive.

Carpets are typically more arboreal and a bit more active, but again a properly fed boa is rather active. 

I have a coastal capet python mutt.



I don't want to confuse you further LOL!

These semi arboreal snakes are definitely fun.


Both boas and carpets are easy second snakes. I also have a SD x Dwarf retic but I don't necessarily think they are for everybody.

I think royals, boas and carpets are very good snakes to keep. Bloods seem quite easy as well and probably only require some minimal husbandry adjustments that differ from your royals. I think their setup is pretty easy as well. No need for much more than ground decor. As far as bites, most young snakes will have some defensive biting behavior. I've been bitten by every snake here sans the royal.

What do your really want and what type of setup are you willing to provide?

Having some fun with caging is enjoyable too. For me personally it is almost as fun as getting a snake.

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## Goode05

I trust handling them. I have about 65ish short tails and only 1 is nervous. Not aggressive or defensive but nervous 


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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-19-2017),Gio (08-20-2017),Squirtle44 (08-20-2017)

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## artgecko

> Do you know of any short tail python specific forums - I can't seem to find any.


I know there is another forum (I actually posted on it a while back when I was looking into bloods) but I can't find it at the moment... Not sure if it is still up. 

Here is a link to the Blood Cell's forum (they are a well-respected breeder).   I don't know how highly trafficked it is. 

You can find bloods with good temperaments.. Honestly, I think it comes down to which snake you like the looks and activity level of the most.  I was looking into blood pythons myself, but don't have the room right now.  I think they are very much like Kenyan sand boas... look great, not super active, and prefer to be on a solid surface (don't climb).  Thus, they will lay on you, sit on your lap, etc. but not a good choice to have "hanging" on you while moving around like a boa.  At least, that is what keepers / breeders told me.  If they feel like they might fall, then you aren't going to have a happy STP.  It was also recommended that I go with a CBB Borneo as my first because they tend to be mellower (as a whole), but I'm not sure how accurate that info is. 

Good luck figuring out which snake to go with!

Goode05-  I love that Borneo!

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## aahmn

I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference. Either would be a good choice. I started with ball pythons years ago, have a big pair of Dumerils (both adoptions), but mostly work with bloods and short tails. I like the boas, but the bloods fit better with my preferences and space. I love the variations in bloods, even within normals. In comparison with balls, bloods and short tails, while still not super active, are very very aware and have much more personality. They are always watching you. Sumatran short tails are generally calmer and easier than bloods, and don't get quite so big. They comfortably fit as adults in 2x4 cages, while some boas would outgrow that and I'd prefer to give snakes that climb the space to do so. 

The Blood Cell's forum hasn't really been active. There's a lot of good info to find on there, though. The facebook link posted above is the group Kara runs as well.

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## Aedryan Methyus

> I trust handling them. I have about 65ish short tails and only 1 is nervous. Not aggressive or defensive but nervous


Holy fatness, Batman! 65-ish? lol Are you running a Richard Simmons boot camp for fat snakes over there or what? lol  :Razz:  But, seriously, though... That's awesome! I wish we lived close, so I could come and see all of them! Are you serious, though? Not even one bad attitude among all of those snakes? Were any of them ever even moody or have bad attitudes periodically at any stage of growth? If so, how long would it last and at what stage did they completely tame out? Have you ever noticed if your males tend to be a little more moody than the females? I'm just really curious, because my male Borneo and my Male Sumatran were both previously just as sweet as can be, but both recently started acting cookoo for some reason and there has also been a couple of episodes with my male Matrix. Are you housing all of your adults in 4' x 2' and 6' x 2' enclosures?

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## Goode05

The one was more nervous when she was smaller. The seem to hatch out pretty defensive but mellow out a lot at around two months of age. None were that bad as youngsters. Outside of fresh hatchlings I'd bet I haven't been bitten in a few years. They are a really easy species to read. You just have to go out them smooth n steady with confidence    
I keep all my adult females in ve 175 Xmas tree tubs and males in cb 110s


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_Aedryan Methyus_ (08-21-2017)

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## Goode05

She's around 20lbs to give you some size reference 


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## Gio

OP,

Are you looking for strictly a size increase or something the acts and behaves differently?

I love that people are showing off the beautiful bloods and shorties. I would probably enjoy one in my collection, however if you are looking for size and something much different from your royal, the boa is the snake to go with.

If you want similar behavior in the cage and out and are just looking for some size, the blood or shortie is the way to go.

You will not see this type of feeding behavior from royals and bloods/shorties.



If you decide to go the boa constrictor route, and are hoping for some activity, the setup is important.

Again, a larger version and IMO, a more colorful and impressive type of snake than what you already have is a shortie.

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## Squirtle44

Quick update for everyone - I ended up getting both.

I got a Hypo Arabasque 66% het Kahl Albino Boa Hatchling and a Sumatran Short Tail Hatchling. They are both awesome and are both very different - but I love them both and are glad I got them both.

Thank you again for everyone that provided information and their insight onto this thread. It helped me a lot with my decision making process.

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_Aedryan Methyus_ (10-11-2017),_GoingPostal_ (10-11-2017)

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## Aedryan Methyus

Congratulations on your new friends!  :Smile:

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## Team Slytherin

Congrats! Can't wait to see some photo action on your new acquisitions!

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