New BP owner. Am I doing everything right?

[babedizzle]

Last night my fiance and I decided to buy a juvenile ball python. The pet store was unable to verify the sex, so I was wondering if there is any way to tell, other than having the snake probed by a vet. The only information the pet store gave us was the fact that he has just got done shedding. They didn't tell us when his last meal was, but soon after we brought him home he pooped in the box we had him in. When should we feed him next? My fiance's friend who also owns snakes is going to bring us a rat tonight, but I think it may be too soon.

We have set him up in a 10 gallon aquarium with a piece of bark, a small branch, and a water dish. To provide heat we placed a heat lamp on the outside of the cage. I would prefer the lamp to shine down into the aquarium from the top of the lid, but the lid we are currently using is plastic and I don't want it to melt. Earlier he felt cold to the touch, so I placed a heating pad on low underneath the aquarium. Later this evening I plan to make another trip to the pet store for reptile bedding, an actual reptile heating pad (the one we are using just for today is for humans) and a bulb to use at night, as I understand they are nocturnal and need a rotation of light and dark. Is this correct? I've been reading online articles on BP's, but I just want to be sure I'm going about this the right way so mine can be as healthy as possible. Any feedback is appreciated.

[Freakie_frog]

Sounds like you have a good start.

I didn't see where you mentioned hides. They typically need two same size and a really tight fit these guys can squeeze in to some tight places and thats what they like. You'll need something to control the UTH (under tank Heater) thermostat of rheostat. Also something to monitor humidity and temp. I suggest those indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometers made by "accurite" that you can get at wal-mart.
As for feeding give it a week once you finish making adjustments to your snakes new home before trying to feed.

[babedizzle]

For now he hides under the bark, as it's about the same size as he is. I plan on buying a hide for him at the pet store to put on the other end of the cage, just so he has the choice of both a warm and cool area to hide. Should he feel warm to the touch? He did last night after we brought him home, but now he feels kind of cold because the bark is on the opposite end of the cage from the heat lamp. Should I move him to the warmer side, or will he do this on his own if he's uncomfortable?

[Hotshot]

I really don't see why it would be to soon to eat, I could be wrong but I don't see a problem also get a AcuRite from walmart there 11 bucks and there GREAT! You should have one side of the tank 90-94 and the other 80-84 warm and cool side and the humidity should be 50-60% and when he about to shed humidity should be 60-70% and the Acurite will tell you the humidity also, it's very good.. If I'm wrong on anything I'm 100% other post will tell you everything you need to know. This is the best site for BP's that I have found. good luck

[Freakie_frog]

Yea all of mine feel warm to the touch. When you get the new hides he will be able to choose which temp he likes better with out having to worry about if the hide is secure enough for him. If he only has the one hide on the cool side he is sacrificing heat for security when you get his hides get two of the exact same kind. I promise it will save you time and trouble in the long run.

[littleindiangirl]

Welcome! Sounds like he's doing good, but yes, I would think that you want the hide towards the warm spot until you can get another hide. Even an old yogurt cup or tupperware bowl will work for now. Just so he has the choice, and doesnt get too cold because he feels more comfortable on that side. They will take security over warmth most of the time.

You can crumple up newspaper to fill the tank to make him feel a little more secure, and that can make him more apt to thermoregulate.

Hope that helps!

[frankykeno]

Congrats on the new BP.

You're instinct that it might be too soon to feed is in my opinion bang on. You need to give the little snake time to settle into it's new enclosure and time for you to tweak anything that needs attending to like temps, humidity, etc. Snakes consume and digest prey best when their environment encourages that so a settled snake, in an environment that's properly set up for it will make these first feeding attempts be likely more successful.

How big is the snake and what size of rat were you thinking to offer it? Are you trying live, frozen/thawed or pre-killed prey?

Sexing can be done by probing or popping. Both methods are best done by a herp vet, a breeder or an experienced hobbyist.

[babedizzle]

My fiance's friend feeds his snakes live baby rats that he knocks out first. I'd feel more comfortable feeding him a dead one or a thawed one, just to see how he reacts to it. I don't want any chance of the rat harming him when he attempts to eat it, so for the trial run, we should probably either go with dead or frozen.

[SatanicIntention]

Baby rats don't have teeth, and the biggest you will ever need to feed him is a small/small rat(45-65grams), so no worries whatsoever.

And please don't stun the prey item, it causes unnecessary stress and pain on the animal. When feeding live, the prey is relaxed and not experiencing any stress, so it will be easy to take down by the snake. When a prey item is scared and stressed, not to mention hurting(they CAN come back from being unconscious), that's a dangerous situation for any snake. Plus, if the snake won't eat pre-killed or f/t prey yet(or ever), then you'll have to give it back or throw it away.

Plus, starting the snake out on live gets him happy about feeding and gets him into a routine. You can switch to f/t prey after a few feedings if you prefer that.

Just know, that live and f/t have about the same safety level when done properly. Feed whatever your snake will readily eat and what is convenient for you to buy.

[Brimstone111888]

My fiance's friend feeds his snakes live baby rats that he knocks out first. I'd feel more comfortable feeding him a dead one or a thawed one, just to see how he reacts to it. I don't want any chance of the rat harming him when he attempts to eat it, so for the trial run, we should probably either go with dead or frozen.

*head desk*

Snakes can handle LIVE prey. They do very well with it. The animal cruelty isn't necessary.