Snakes and Stones

[Lord Sorril]

Someone asked how I can be certain if my eggs are dead or not...I think it becomes pretty obvious at some point.

Ideally you would detach the dead eggs from the viable ones.
It is not the mold you have to be concerned about...it is the excess fluid being wicked from a dying egg into a living one (eggs are semi-permeable).
Some breeders separate connected eggs as soon as they are laid for this very reason, however, historically I have had little issue-so I do not add the risk of damaging dozens of healthy eggs to proactively prevent a rare occurrence.

Before you start separating connected eggs though: Do take into account the relative age and amount of time until hatch.
In my Clutch#17 I lost one egg early on and removed it, then I lost the last three (shown below) fairly recently.
Since the remaining egg is due to hatch any day now--there is a greater risk of manipulating it then leaving it as-is.
If I was at an earlier point in incubation: I would use scalpel or razor blade and then slice through the dead eggs to disconnect them while using paper towels to wick away any leakage.
Yes, it is gross and a dirty job, but, how badly did you want that hatchling?

[Bogertophis]

I'm one that ALWAYS separated snake eggs, & never lost any as a result. But sooner is better- I'd separate them as soon as possible after they were laid. The longer you wait, the harder they stick together. It was a slow task- gently rocking each pair of stuck eggs back & forth until the connection let loose- usually helped by one or several drops of water just on the connection, & while keeping the eggs in their original positions. I can't imagine using a razor...only on clearly dead ones.

[Lord Sorril]

I'm one that ALWAYS separated snake eggs, & never lost any as a result. But sooner is better- I'd separate them as soon as possible after they were laid. The longer you wait, the harder they stick together. It was a slow task- gently rocking each pair of stuck eggs back & forth until the connection let loose- usually helped by one or several drops of water just on the connection, & while keeping the eggs in their original positions. I can't imagine using a razor...only on clearly dead ones.

Whatever works for you!

My ball python eggs are pretty well solidified when I get to them 12-24 hours after they have been laid. I kinda prefer when they are stuck together because it keeps them immobile while they incubate.

I do not have the skill level to guarantee they will not have their shells 'thinned' during separation-damaging a single egg would immediately negate any benefit.

As I said: I only use a razor to cut away the deteriorating egg(s) by slicing *through them*. My blade never touches the good egg. I am just dividing them enough to prevent moisture exchange between the two.

[Bogertophis]

Yes, I know what you meant about using the razor. The time it takes is the drawback to separating the eggs my way- it's a bit slow, so anyone with multiple clutches might not have the time.

[Armiyana]

That sucks about loosing the three so close to hatching. I hope the remaining little one does well!

[Lord Sorril]

That sucks about loosing the three so close to hatching. I hope the remaining little one does well!

Thanks! Yeah, the ups and downs of breeding...
All the eggs looked good originally, and I did not record any abnormalities in the incubation process .

The first egg on the top left failed around 36 days, and the next 3 around 52 days.
Based on the advanced rate of decomposition of the two eggs on the left and right: I think they were duds.
The egg in the center looks like it definitely had a chance, but, failed. Could it have been poisoned by the two adjacent eggs failing simultaneously? Hmmm...Maybe.
I did note that all three eggs were looking bad at the same time, and two just deteriorated much faster than the third...I'm not ruling out interference by the two decaying eggs, but, it seems unlikely.

The cross was Gravel/Yellowbelly (Highway) x Leopard.
I only need 1 Leopard to work with, and I've got a 50/50 chance on that last egg. *fingers crossed*

[Lord Sorril]

Photo #383

GHI/Lesser with some pieces of agate from the Mid-West USA.

I thought this photo of my Clutch #19 was kinda nice, so here ya go too!

Also, found this little one below in my garage (super itchy to hold):

To those of you who live in New England: An all black wooly bear. Does this mean an epically brutal winter?...
Or does it mean that I have a Giant Leopard Moth caterpillar overwintering?
No worries, either way I will make sure it makes it to the Spring.

[Bogertophis]

Wow, you're amazing! Teaching your snakes to drink from straws- & you really start them early too.

[Lord Sorril]

Wow, you're amazing! Teaching your snakes to drink from straws- & you really start them early too.

Sure do! I'd rather teacher them about it myself than have them learn it on the streets...

Which reminds me: There was a guy who posted a funny comment on one of my YouTube Videos and he was like 'BRUH!!!!!!!!!!! WHY YOU USE DEM STRAWS ON THOSE EGGS?????????????' hahaha...

I know most of you reading this already know why the straws are there: to stabilize the eggs so they don't shift. Unlike bird eggs: snake eggs are not designed to be rotated, they sit stationary in the mothers coils. In my time lapse videos you can see the ball python eggs rock back and forth over time...if they manage to flip over-then there is a chance that the developing embryo will drown...

Photo #384

Blue brazilian agate nodule: Tumbled/Polished Whole, with a Pastel/Spider/66% Het VPI Axanthic/66% Het Orange Ghost.

[mlededee]

Congrats on getting OVER 3 MILLION views on this thread!

Amazing photos! Keep them coming!