Rookie need advice

[Bogertophis]

Also, they seldom will accept prey if they are cruising around their enclosure, out in the open. So you're better off waiting until they feel 'secure' enough (in their
hide, peeking out) before you offer.

Snakes also get stressed out if we keep offering repeatedly, so if you think she's ready but for some reason she doesn't take it, don't panic...just wait a few days
before you try again. Remember snakes have evolved to go for periods of time without eating...they're not like us, they won't starve. Questions?

[Zincubus]

Also, they seldom will accept prey if they are cruising around their enclosure, out in the open. So you're better off waiting until they feel 'secure' enough (in their
hide, peeking out) before you offer.

Snakes also get stressed out if we keep offering repeatedly, so if you think she's ready but for some reason she doesn't take it, don't panic...just wait a few days
before you try again. Remember snakes have evolved to go for periods of time without eating...they're not like us, they won't starve. Questions?

^ This^

Wait until it’s been settled under a hide for a while then give the mouse a good blast with a hairdryer and dangle in front of the hide entrance !!


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[Caitlin]

So much good advice here. I love this forum. Just to add a couple of details: be sure the hides you offer are the right size for your little one. BPs seem to feel most comfortable when their hides give them a nice enclosed feeling, so if the hides are small enough to actually touch their sides and back, that's a good thing.

If the hides are too large, offer smaller ones for now or alternatively you can stuff some crumpled paper towels into them to provide more of a feeling of security.

92 degrees F on the warm side may be a tad too much - I'd drop that by a few degrees.

Finally, if your snake just doesn't settle down you might consider putting it into a 10-gallon tank (set up with the blacked-out sides, a hide, etc.) since you mentioned you had this available. And/or keeping it temporarily in a small tub may help. Hopefully additional hides, clutter, and other adjustments in your current enclosure will work, but if not, smaller enclosures are always worth considering when dealing with a baby.

[Absololol]

In terms of feeding, my snake was nervous and jumpy when I first got her, though not as nervous as yours seems to be. She did not eat for the first 2 weeks at least!
Then, I decided that I would do everything in my power to make a 'perfect' feeding time, and ever since, she has been voracious and has NEVER refused a meal, even in shed.

Here is what I did:

I left her alone completely for a week. I didn't handle her, the only thing I did was change her water supply, and double check the temperature and humidity.

When it came to the day of the feeding, I took a small, tupperware-style tub and filled it with cool water. I put the f/t rodent in a plastic ziplock bag, and put it in the water. I put this tub on top of the viv, so help introduce the 'scent' of the rodent into the room whilst it was defrosting.

Once defrosted (a few hours), I turned the lights off (save for a very dim light) so that it was almost complete darkness. This helps because it means that the snake will be going on SMELL and HEAT alone. Since they are nocturnal, they should really be in feeding mode. I grabbed the rodent by the body with the tongs, and used a hairdryer to heat up the rodent, with the viv's door slightly open. This helped to 'waft' the smell further into the vivarium. I paid extra attention to the head.

Then, once the feeder is nice and warm, and holding the rodent with the tongs by the body (Not the tail), I made sure I was stood as far 'behind' the snake as possible, and slowly lowered the rodent to the floor in front of the snake. This way, my big, scary heat signature was behind the snake, and the only thing immediately obvious to my snake was the smell and heat signature of the rodent in front of her. I then tried to make 'scurry' motions with the feeder. If your snake is doing a bit of an 's' pose with its neck, and is making tongue flicks, you're probably almost there! Continue to entice with small movements. Rodents cool off fast, so you can try reheating a few times.

This really helped. Now, all I have to do is heat up a rodent with a hairdryer, and even if it's the day, no matter where she is hiding, she will immediately clock the smell and come out, ready for food if she's hungry.