Total newbie - few of questions

[Theflyingyogi]

Hello all!

I want to start out by saying I'm completely new to the hobby. Have no snake yet, (Have my eye ona gorgeous candino pewter which I will attach pcitures of) but have plenty of questions!

I have very minimal experience with reptiles and my things are birds. I had a bearded dragon and after my separation with my partner I no longer have the beardie. I currently have a leapard gecko, which she's my pet rock. I never see her, like at all - people think I exaggerate. I know she's alive because I clean the poop, the food is gone and she moves from one hide to the next. Other than that. I never see her - even at night.

So that about sums up my reptile experience, although I did enjoy me beardie his poop would kill my job. I'm sure it didn't help that it baked under a heat lamp while I'm at work. And let's face it, no one poops roses as much as we'd like to think we do 😅.

I have always liked snaked but never the idea of feeding them. Which is why I said I'd never bring one home. Until I found out about frozen, thawed method - which i can do. Before I make the same mistakes with the above reptiles I would really love some first hand experience. I have two amazing dogs, so I'm not looking for a cuddle pet. Of course I'll interact with the snake and take it out. But, I don't want a pet rock....

So what I'd like to know is..


What is the activity level of the snake? I understand that they are nocturnal, and I won't see much if any activity during the day. However, what are nights light? Do they come out and explore or do they pretty much stay in the hide as well?

What is th poop situation? How bad is the order from 1 to 10? And how often do they go (young and older snakes). It sounds like a silly question, but I don't want my apartment to be smelling bad.

About how much am I looking to spend on feeding the snake monthly? I'd be feeding frozen.


I have the basics covered, I have a 20 gallon long tank, I have the screen top with locks. I have the heat mat, and the hides. I missing the bowl, and substrate. Not a fan of the newspaper, as I like more natural enclosures. I live in miami but keep my apt at about 80 when im not home (air off) and about 76 when I am, at bed time i drop it to about 70. Will the snake be ok at night or might I run into issues? I know that they need between 50 to 60 percent humidity. I was thinking of seal off part of the mesh top with aquarium safe silicon to try and hold moisture in. Ideas on this?

I know this post is very long! But I rather ask away then bring home an animal and have it suffer.

Side note. There is a local ad on clist with two pythons for 120 tank included. Ones a regular about 2 years old the other is a banana a out a year old. I feel like i should get a younger snake temperment wise because I'm not too sure how well socialized these have been. And lets face it, i don't want to get bit

[Luvyna]

Hi, welcome to the forum and to snake-keeping! Good on you for getting all your supplies and info before getting a snake as well.

Here is some info on ball pythons based on my personal experience:

1. Activity level - After the initial week I would say a ball python's activity is just above that of a rock lol. I never see mine during the day and only rarely at night. If I'm lucky I'll catch him sticking his head out of his hide in the morning before all the lights come on and the blinds are up. If a BP is healthy and unstressed they should not usually be actively roaming the enclosure during the day.

If you want a more active snake, I'd recommend with going with a corn snake. They are very beginner friendly, less sensitive to stress than BPs, better eaters, and you are more likely to see them roaming around. They also have less intense humidity requirements.

2. Poop - One of my favourite things about keeping a snake is how infrequently you need to clean up after them. Maybe 1-4 times a month at most and very manageable. The smell is not as bad as cat or dog poop in my experience.

3. Cost of feeding - Depends on where you buy from and in what quantity.

4. Substrate - I would recommend Eco Earth coconut husk or Forest Floor cypress mulch for substrate since you want a natural look and you are using a glass tank, as these substrates hold humidity well.

5. Temperature - 70F ambient temp is too low for a ball python. You should ideally keep ambient temps in the 78-82F range, and they should not fall below 75F.

6. Age of snake - Younger snakes are actually more prone to being defensive and nippy than adults, because they are small and feel vulnerable and are still figuring out what might eat them and what won't. While most snakes will calm down as they grow up, some will stay nippy and defensive. If you want a snake with a more established and calm personality, I'd actually recommend getting a yearling or adult snake. Just make sure to try holding the snake before you buy it to see how it tolerates handling, and you will usually get what you see.

Unlike dogs captive-bred snakes don't have a critical period of socialization when they are young. I think a snake of any age can become accepting of human handling as long as they are introduced slowly and gently, and have a calm personality.

[Kira]

I don't see a thermostat listed in your items. All heating elements MUST be controlled with a thermostat (not to be confused with a thermometer) otherwise your snake can get badly burned. You can get a Jumpstart thermostat on Amazon for about $30 but if you can afford it I would go with a Herpstat.

Also, I hope those ball pythons in the ad aren't being cohabbed because snakes are solitary animals and should not be housed together. They need their own enclosures.

[Theflyingyogi]

Hi, welcome to the forum and to snake-keeping! Good on you for getting all your supplies and info before getting a snake as well.

Here is some info on ball pythons based on my personal experience:

1. Activity level - After the initial week I would say a ball python's activity is just above that of a rock lol. I never see mine during the day and only rarely at night. If I'm lucky I'll catch him sticking his head out of his hide in the morning before all the lights come on and the blinds are up. If a BP is healthy and unstressed they should not usually be actively roaming the enclosure during the day.

If you want a more active snake, I'd recommend with going with a corn snake. They are very beginner friendly, less sensitive to stress than BPs, better eaters, and you are more likely to see them roaming around. They also have less intense humidity requirements.

2. Poop - One of my favourite things about keeping a snake is how infrequently you need to clean up after them. Maybe 1-4 times a month at most and very manageable. The smell is not as bad as cat or dog poop in my experience.

3. Cost of feeding - Depends on where you buy from and in what quantity.

4. Substrate - I would recommend Eco Earth coconut husk or Forest Floor cypress mulch for substrate since you want a natural look and you are using a glass tank, as these substrates hold humidity well.

5. Temperature - 70F ambient temp is too low for a ball python. You should ideally keep ambient temps in the 78-82F range, and they should not fall below 75F.

6. Age of snake - Younger snakes are actually more prone to being defensive and nippy than adults, because they are small and feel vulnerable and are still figuring out what might eat them and what won't. While most snakes will calm down as they grow up, some will stay nippy and defensive. If you want a snake with a more established and calm personality, I'd actually recommend getting a yearling or adult snake. Just make sure to try holding the snake before you buy it to see how it tolerates handling, and you will usually get what you see.

Unlike dogs captive-bred snakes don't have a critical period of socialization when they are young. I think a snake of any age can become accepting of human handling as long as they are introduced slowly and gently, and have a calm personality.

Hmm, so even at night I may not see the little guy then? I have two other people telling me otherwise. Guess it comes down to the individual snakes. I really don't want a pet rock lol.

So would i use a ceramic heat emitter to control the temps at night? What would be the best way to go about that. I figured that would be an issue. I need to figure that out before I bring any thing home!

I don't see a thermostat listed in your items. All heating elements MUST be controlled with a thermostat (not to be confused with a thermometer) otherwise your snake can get badly burned. You can get a Jumpstart thermostat on Amazon for about $30 but if you can afford it I would go with a Herpstat.

Also, I hope those ball pythons in the ad aren't being cohabbed because snakes are solitary animals and should not be housed together. They need their own enclosures.

Yes!! I forgot the thermostat, have that covered! Unfortunately the person is cohabbing. And I asked if they would sell individually because one, i dont want tso snakes, and two i only really want the banana 😅. So that for me is an issue.

[Zincubus]

Whilst it's certainly true that Royals are nocturnal and Corns maybe seen mooching around all times of the day .
In my experience if you put some branches in your viv / rub , thick enough to climb around not pencil thin ones ... your Royal / Ball Python will certainly make use of them in the evenings ..

It's laughable to see some photos of some setups where the Royal is kept in a very small tub with one hide and a little bowl of water ... only to read the owner saying that he doesn't do anything but hide away ..

Exasperating !


PS .. as regards handling .. if you want a calm gentle snake to sit happily on your lap whilst you watch telly or sit chatting with someone then a Royal / Ball Python is for you . Corns are usually very friendly but once they're out they don't normally sit still they just want to explore ... it's like holding a hamster

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Zincubus]

In my experience if you put some branches in your viv / rub , thick enough to climb around not pencil thin ones and even pieces of bark - your Royal / Ball Python will certainly make use of them in the evenings ..

It's laughable to see some photos of some setups where the Royal is kept in a very small tub with one hide and a little bowl of water ... only to read the owner saying that he doesn't do anything but hide away ..

Exasperating !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Danger noodles]

My bp love to hang out in the large branches, they roam most nights except the two nights after they eat. My one ball is like a marathon runner lol the other when holding doesn’t like to move. They are all different and I love that

[Craiga 01453]

Hello, welcome to the forum!!

Good on you for doing your homework and wanting to have everything set up before bringing your snake home. You're already off to a great start.

So, to answer your questions...if I'm vague or you have any follow up questions please ask and I'll get back to you asap. I'm working a 12-13 hour day tomorrow, so if it takes a bit for me to reply that will be why...

1) the activity level of the snake will very drastically depending on what species you're interested in. It will also vary a bit from one animal to another within the same species. Some are more active by nature, some are nocturnal and others diurnal, etc...

2) again, this will vary animal to animal...but the bottom line is, most poop stinks. I can tell when my hognose poops as soon as I walk in the room. My others, I don't smell until I open the enclosure. Using certain substrates will help with odor absorption too.

3) again, this will vary by species. Bigger prey costs more. I buy bulk F/T every 4-6 months. It costs me about $4 per week to feed my 4 snakes.

4) as far as what you still need: thermostats on all heating equipment are an absolute MUST.
- for substrate, I use a blend of eco earth and repti-bark in my enclosures (except my hognose). It holds humidity well, retains odor and looks naturalistic. My hognose has aspen (which I hate, but he seems to prefer it, so I give it to him).
- basically, your heat mat is there solely to provide a hot spot and not for ambient temps. So, if your room temps fall below 75 you'll need an additional heat source.
- with my glass enclosures i wrap them inn foam board insulation on the back, sides and top. This helps immensely with heat and humidity control.
- lastly, do NOT get the snakes from the Craigslist ad. Cohabitation is a huge no-no. And based on that, I wouldn't trust the health of the animals. Buy from a reputable breeder. Trust me, you'll avoid a lot of headaches and vet bills.

My last two cents: take some time to research different species. There are tons of awesome choices. If you're not looking for a pet rock, there are more active species.
Watch some YouTube videos, do some reading, ask some questions. There are plenty of great, knowledgeable people on this forum happy to steer You in the right direction and help you every step of the way.

If you'd like some species suggestions from me just ask, I'm happy to give you some ideas. Just tell me what you're looking for in a snake. Size, temperament, activity, handling, ease of husbandry, eating habits, etc...

Hope I helped you out!!

[Theflyingyogi]

Hey guys! So I appreciate everyones input! What I meant by a pet rock is literally such, that the animal doesn't move; or that I don't see it move.
Like my leopard gecko for instance. I NEVER see her out. I know she's alive because she will move from one hide to the next and I have to replace food. But I never see her out and about.
So that was the pet rot comment - I would have been upset if I spent almost 700 on a snake that I never see out. I get home in the afternoon, and go to bed relatively late. So it would be nice to see it coming out and checking things out before bed.
My concern is the tempts in my apt. During the day I leave the air "on" at 80, but at night I drop the air down to 70 and I know they need ambient temps of 80 on the cool side. I'd have to get a ceramic heat emitter for the night tempts correct?