First shed question?

[Bogertophis]

Thank you! She has been hiding in her log all week but she loves that thing and not soaking in her bowl (which we were told she would do) I never noticed her eyes hazy and she let us handle her.

We feed her once a week. 1 live baby mouse in a separate container.We dont want to rapid feed her as we are hoping she doesnt get 10 feet hahaha

Humidity question....I was told with Dumeril's and the fact we live in North Florida where it is always humid, we dont need to worry about humidity in her husbandry. In addition, we were told that the evaporation from her bowl was adequate. We have an undertank heater and that is it. She seems happy and healthy. She never has laid on the hot side. Have we been misinformed??

Hiding in log all week- yes, that's a tip off; when snakes are cloudy (in the wild) they hide, because they're at a survival disadvantage (worse vision than usual).
Keep in mind that most of our snakes NEED a snug hide on both the cool & the warm sides of the cage for them to feel secure & do well...so you may need to add?
Also, they'll use an open-ended "log" if that's all they have, but snakes prefer hides with one doorway only (not overly large) & of a size that they feel snug in (so they
typically need larger ones as they grow). For snakes, it's the opposite of homes we admire in magazines, with big dramatic doorways & high ceilings...

Never noticed eyes hazy: a snake's body secretes some moisture between the old & new skin layers shortly before & to help the old skin come off, so when that happens,
we say they've 'gone clear' because while they looked cloudy BEFORE that, the skin will become (almost) "clear" (because of the moisture, as with oil or water on paper).
When they've been cloudy, then gone "clear" (appear normal to the untrained eye), we know that their shed is imminent. That's a good time to add humidity if not before.

Feeding: you want to feed prey that is age-appropriate for your snake (in terms of size), & as the snake grows, so should the size of the prey, and the length of time
between feedings should also get somewhat longer, as larger prey takes longer to digest. While it's best not to over-feed a snake (making them over-weight) it is
cruel to deliberately under-feed a snake so it stays "small"...chronic starvation results in very thin (permanently damaged) skin that tears easily & poor health overall.
I'm pretty sure you don't want that... Also, please consider (for the safety of your snake) switching to pre-killed prey only, either frozen-thawed or freshly-killed if you
are up to it. Rats & even mice fight back & can injure snakes causing death, either directly or by injury & infections that don't respond to treatment. Vet bills are
expensive, & feeding live rodents to a pet you love just isn't worth it. Get some long tongs (with rounded ends) to offer food with, so you snake doesn't mistake you
-warm & wiggling - for the prey. Most bites are avoidable (snakes can make mistakes, they don't identify accurately by vision) & feeding bites are the worst.

Handling- while that horse is already out of the barn & I'm glad your snake fed for you, it's best not to handle any new snake until they've settled in & fed at least 3
times easily for you. Just saying...at this point I'd back off & let her be a snake first...there's no rush to "tame" any snake & when they feel more secure in their new
surroundings, they generally are calmer still. Stress in snakes contributes (in a bad way) to the function of their immune system, making them more likely to get sick
from anything they've been recently exposed to...just like in humans. Also, many refuse food when overly stressed.

Humidity: best to judge using a reliable gauge (not the cheapie stick-on kinds, they aren't very accurate & often end up stuck on the snake instead). While Florida is
very humid, the difference is that your snake isn't living outside: the fact that there is heat in the snake's cage as well as heat in your house (in winter, I'm assuming)
causes much of that natural humidity to be lost. Even air conditioning removes humidity...I'm quite sure you don't use a "swamp"/water cooler in Florida.