Food strikes ?

[Panther chameleon]

Hellooo! First time here posting,been reading alot and gained so much knowledge from expert owners on this site!thanks to all of you.
I got my first ball ,name Popcorn from repticon. He is an out going and adventurous snake. Right after that within another week I went and purchased an other ball, I named her snow ball , khaleesi.
In between those 2 names lol. Anyway, question is why does she have to strike and missed the food the first 3 times before she can actually grabs it? Is the fuzzy not hot enough for her to detect?I feed in her cage and since she is still new to us dont wanna stress her out. I m new to balls but had experience with other snakes. Usually all my other snakes eat just fine. Any solutions?
Thanks

[Panther chameleon]

A bit about my set up. Both hot and cold hide outside. Hot at 90 and cold at 83. Night time drop to 78. But still has hot spot of 90 all night long. Humidity 50 to 60%.using over top heat lamp and under tank heater

[dakski]

Hellooo! First time here posting,been reading alot and gained so much knowledge from expert owners on this site!thanks to all of you.
I got my first ball ,name Popcorn from repticon. He is an out going and adventurous snake. Right after that within another week I went and purchased an other ball, I named her snow ball , khaleesi.
In between those 2 names lol. Anyway, question is why does she have to strike and missed the food the first 3 times before she can actually grabs it? Is the fuzzy not hot enough for her to detect?I feed in her cage and since she is still new to us dont wanna stress her out. I m new to balls but had experience with other snakes. Usually all my other snakes eat just fine. Any solutions?
Thanks

A bit about my set up. Both hot and cold hide outside. Hot at 90 and cold at 83. Night time drop to 78. But still has hot spot of 90 all night long. Humidity 50 to 60%.using over top heat lamp and under tank heater

How are you checking temps? If on the ground with a temp gun, the temps are ok. What's ambient temp? If not checking with a temp gun, get one yesterday.

Secondly, how are you controlling temps? You didn't mention a thermostat, which doesn't mean you do not have one, but they are necessary and mandatory. If you do not have one, get one, yesterday.

Fuzzy what? Mice or rats?

Please see below for appropriate size prey items for both your BP's. Do you know age and/or weights?



As you can see, Fuzzy rats are okay for until 200G. Fuzzy mice are never appropriate food for a BP, way too small. If that's what you are feeding, that could be why she's missing.

Additionally, below, is the proper way to defrost F/T prey items. Please review.



This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP.

[Sirus Uno]

What morph is it? My Spider mix always misses the first strike. She gets super derpy when excited... Although she's super derpy anyway. Spider BP's are known for the derp mainly referred to as wobble or corkscrew. Basically its a neurological issue some other morphs share as well.
Age may also play a role in the missed strikes. Some hatchlings may take a few feedings to get it right on live prey since its moving around and such.
Dakski, that's a great step by step provided. Very detailed!

[Panther chameleon]

I use a temp gun to check. Also using thermostat to control under tank heater. Ambient temp is around 85 during day, 78 during night. She is very young unfortunately I dont have a scale to weight. According to breeder he said he fed 3meals and was on live. So I m guessing she also needs to get used to frozen first. I had successfully transitioned from live to frozen. But it's just that she would strike and missed 3 times before she can actually grabs it which concerns me. It's like if she misses the food the first 3 times she would run away and hide in her huts. I m using frozen fuzzy mice and thaw out in hot water and do the zombie dance with feeding tone.

[Panther chameleon]

What morph is it? My Spider mix always misses the first strike. She gets super derpy when excited... Although she's super derpy anyway. Spider BP's are known for the derp mainly referred to as wobble or corkscrew. Basically its a neurological issue some other morphs share as well.
Age may also play a role in the missed strikes. Some hatchlings may take a few feedings to get it right on live prey since its moving around and such.
Dakski, that's a great step by step provided. Very detailed!

Albino has no problem on feeding. The one I have problem with is a BEL. Does morph has something to do with missed strikes?

[Panther chameleon]

How are you checking temps? If on the ground with a temp gun, the temps are ok. What's ambient temp? If not checking with a temp gun, get one yesterday.

Secondly, how are you controlling temps? You didn't mention a thermostat, which doesn't mean you do not have one, but they are necessary and mandatory. If you do not have one, get one, yesterday.

Fuzzy what? Mice or rats?

Please see below for appropriate size prey items for both your BP's. Do you know age and/or weights?



As you can see, Fuzzy rats are okay for until 200G. Fuzzy mice are never appropriate food for a BP, way too small. If that's what you are feeding, that could be why she's missing.

Additionally, below, is the proper way to defrost F/T prey items. Please review.



This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP.

Wow. Thanks for your response. That's very very detail and info I needed. I ll definitely try and use your method.

[dakski]

I use a temp gun to check. Also using thermostat to control under tank heater. Ambient temp is around 85 during day, 78 during night. She is very young unfortunately I dont have a scale to weight. According to breeder he said he fed 3meals and was on live. So I m guessing she also needs to get used to frozen first. I had successfully transitioned from live to frozen. But it's just that she would strike and missed 3 times before she can actually grabs it which concerns me. It's like if she misses the food the first 3 times she would run away and hide in her huts. I m using frozen fuzzy mice and thaw out in hot water and do the zombie dance with feeding tone.

Glad the thawing method was helpful.

Fuzzy mice are way too small for any BP, period.

Get a scale (walmart, amazon, etc.) that does grams. You should know weight to know what to feed.

Minimum he should be on rat fuzzy or small mice.

Mouse fuzzy's won't make a dent and he's probably super hungry.

[dakski]

I use a temp gun to check. Also using thermostat to control under tank heater. Ambient temp is around 85 during day, 78 during night. She is very young unfortunately I dont have a scale to weight. According to breeder he said he fed 3meals and was on live. So I m guessing she also needs to get used to frozen first. I had successfully transitioned from live to frozen. But it's just that she would strike and missed 3 times before she can actually grabs it which concerns me. It's like if she misses the food the first 3 times she would run away and hide in her huts. I m using frozen fuzzy mice and thaw out in hot water and do the zombie dance with feeding tone.

Good on thermostat to control UTH. However, is that your only heating element? If using another heating device, that also NEEDS a thermostat. All heating elements must be regulated by thermostat.

[Panther chameleon]

Good on thermostat to control UTH. However, is that your only heating element? If using another heating device, that also NEEDS a thermostat. All heating elements must be regulated by thermostat.

I have a heat lamp over top where she can bask under when she needs to. Heat lamp is hooked up to a timer. it turns on and off few hours a day. If it gets cool, thermostat will kickin and bring up to desire temp.Only UTH is regulated by thermostat. She doesnt roam in day time. So I think the setup and temp should be right .