How do you deal with a agressive/snappy/stressed snake? Training them?

[bcr229]

I was not aware that you should be training your snake?

It's not "training" so much as "conditioning" it not to bite.
In general snakes bite for two reasons: self-defense and hunting. Through gentle handling and tap training, we are conditioning snakes to accept interaction with people as non-threatening, and we're teaching our snakes when they can expect to be fed or not.

It doesn't mean that our snakes will never bite either. They may be having a bad day, or they may get startled and lash out, but it minimizes the chance of getting nipped. For small snakes this isn't a big deal but for bigger ones it can mean an ER visit, and potentially bad press for the hobby.

Snakes can also lose teeth when they bite, leading to an abscess or mouth infection. So, discouraging a bite is also a safety factor for them.

[Craiga 01453]

a.) Slow, deliberate, confident movement is paramount when dealing with a flighty/defensive snake. Sometimes I just open the doors of his enclosure, rest my hand on the inside ledge, and sit still for awhile. Then I might just rest an open hand on him so he feels confident I mean him no harm.

b.) Learn to read their body language and MOODS. Sometimes, no matter what tricks you have up your sleeve, the animal is not in the mood to be bothered. It's important to recognize those tells, for the sake of your fingers

Yes and yes. Both great pieces of advice.

[Craiga 01453]

It's not "training" so much as "conditioning" it not to bite.
In general snakes bite for two reasons: self-defense and hunting. Through gentle handling and tap training, we are conditioning snakes to accept interaction with people as non-threatening, and we're teaching our snakes when they can expect to be fed or not.

It doesn't mean that our snakes will never bite either. They may be having a bad day, or they may get startled and lash out, but it minimizes the chance of getting nipped. For small snakes this isn't a big deal but for bigger ones it can mean an ER visit, and potentially bad press for the hobby.

Snakes can also lose teeth when they bite, leading to an abscess or mouth infection. So, discouraging a bite is also a safety factor for them.

And yes to this too. Great reply

[Skyrivers]

a.) Slow, deliberate, confident movement is paramount when dealing with a flighty/defensive snake. Sometimes I just open the doors of his enclosure, rest my hand on the inside ledge, and sit still for awhile. Then I might just rest an open hand on him so he feels confident I mean him no harm.

b.) Learn to read their body language and MOODS. Sometimes, no matter what tricks you have up your sleeve, the animal is not in the mood to be bothered. It's important to recognize those tells, for the sake of your fingers

Just an observation here I would like to point out.

Reasons why snakes move quickly.

1) Food. Weather it is catching or killing, this is one reason snakes move quickly.
2) Defense/ fear

If you consider this and plan your movements to not cause the snake to think you are doing one of the 2 it lessens the chance of being bitten. They associate the quick movement directly to being seen as a threat or food source for a larger predator. Snakes communicate with body language their intentions and moods are expressed really well. We just have to learn the language and respect it and get them to understand (as pets) that we are not there to cause them harm or food source.

Snakes tend to conserve energy (especially ball pythons). Some snakes are more inquisitive about things around them. I have a theory that all animals play of some sort.

I remember one time a friend of mine had box turtles. The female's favorite food was strawberries. She would often share her strawberry with her mate that lived with her. One day a new box turtle was introduced to the enclosure and was a male. The female abandoned her mate for the new guy. The first boy got depressed and stopped eating and stopped being active. They removed the new guy from the enclosure and she went back to him. He started eating again when she started showing him some attention again. Was this an emotional response or was it just a fasting period? We are talking about turtles by the way.

It is just something to think about.

[dakski]

I know I am late to the game here, but want to add my two cents.

My BCI, Behira, nailed me about two months ago. It was a total food response/hoping for food bite. She had her head around the hide, looking for food, and I picked her up from the middle of her body. She couldn't see my hand and got me on the arm real quick. Right after, she let me pick her up and was chill as can be.

I started hook training her. It has gone fantastically.

When I open the tank, I rub her gently with the handle side of the hook (soft handle). If she's looking curious/interested/hungry, I also show her the hook handle and then rub her again. After 2-3 rubs, she accepts that it's time to be handled and happily lets me scoop her up.

I have had no incidents or close calls since I started hook training.

She is a very aggressive feeder and even began striking at the acrylic doors at night when she saw movement. I have since put a drape over her tank so she doesn't strike and hurt herself.

Between the drape and the hook, she has not hurt herself anymore striking at the doors, and continues to be a total puppy dog when handled. She has also made zero attempts at my arm .

[Godzilla78]

I just give them a good smack in the head if they get nippy with me. Show them who’s boss!
*just kidding, 😂
I never put my hand in front of their head, unless they are a well-established docile pet, in a calm mood. I also slowly and gently touch their side before “grabbing” and picking them up. (Hook training, but with my hand)
I only have royals, if i had more agressive snakes, I probably would use an object to gently touch their side, instead of my bare hand..

[Team Slytherin]

Just an observation here I would like to point out.

Reasons why snakes move quickly.

1) Food. Weather it is catching or killing, this is one reason snakes move quickly.
2) Defense/ fear

If you consider this and plan your movements to not cause the snake to think you are doing one of the 2 it lessens the chance of being bitten. They associate the quick movement directly to being seen as a threat or food source for a larger predator. Snakes communicate with body language their intentions and moods are expressed really well. We just have to learn the language and respect it and get them to understand (as pets) that we are not there to cause them harm or food source.

Snakes tend to conserve energy (especially ball pythons). Some snakes are more inquisitive about things around them. I have a theory that all animals play of some sort.

I remember one time a friend of mine had box turtles. The female's favorite food was strawberries. She would often share her strawberry with her mate that lived with her. One day a new box turtle was introduced to the enclosure and was a male. The female abandoned her mate for the new guy. The first boy got depressed and stopped eating and stopped being active. They removed the new guy from the enclosure and she went back to him. He started eating again when she started showing him some attention again. Was this an emotional response or was it just a fasting period? We are talking about turtles by the way.

It is just something to think about.

Ok, the thing about the turtles is really cute. I think assuming they don't have an emotional response because we don't speak their language seems short-sighted. 100% personal opinion, of course. I know many people disagree and that's doesn't hurt my feelings at all!

Sadly, Apophis thinks everything coming towards his cage is trying to feed him. He's a cuddly kitten outside his viv, then as soon as he crosses the threshold inside, his pupils turn into saucers and it's a hands-free zone!

This happened a few months ago after he'd been out playing like a good boy...the second he's back in his cage, he thinks it's dinner time. He'd eaten just three days before. I realized later that I'd accidentally left feeding tongs on top of his cage...I think he saw them and it was over. He has since also learned what the sound of a hairdryer means in this house

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrWtcF-ExzA&t=2s

[Skyrivers]

Ok, the thing about the turtles is really cute. I think assuming they don't have an emotional response because we don't speak their language seems short-sighted. 100% personal opinion, of course. I know many people disagree and that's doesn't hurt my feelings at all!

Sadly, Apophis thinks everything coming towards his cage is trying to feed him. He's a cuddly kitten outside his viv, then as soon as he crosses the threshold inside, his pupils turn into saucers and it's a hands-free zone!

This happened a few months ago after he'd been out playing like a good boy...the second he's back in his cage, he thinks it's dinner time. He'd eaten just three days before. I realized later that I'd accidentally left feeding tongs on top of his cage...I think he saw them and it was over. He has since also learned what the sound of a hairdryer means in this house

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrWtcF-ExzA&t=2s

They learn quickly when it comes to food. They must have a Great Dane brain.

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[SDA]

One more thing not often mentioned is patience. Taking your time and not trying to rush in to get a hold of a defensive snake pays off.

For example with me having to give Ganja shots, I will wait until she is no longer in a strike position and will take my time to secure her head. Too many people get into a rush, don't take time to read the snake, get distracted and end up bit and bloody

[Skyrivers]

One more thing not often mentioned is patience. Taking your time and not trying to rush in to get a hold of a defensive snake pays off.

For example with me having to give Ganja shots, I will wait until she is no longer in a strike position and will take my time to secure her head. Too many people get into a rush, don't take time to read the snake, get distracted and end up bit and bloody

Good point.

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