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Re: Your thoughts on Dwarf and SD retics?
 Originally Posted by GpBp
Woah! Lots of replies! I'll do my best;
I watched those videos, very great! Though, idk what he means by some of the stuff he said. I know what mainland means, but the like "kalatoa" or something like that (lol) just lost me! Very helpful though. That G-Stripe was SMOKING!!!
I don't think I'd get a mainland, although they are beautiful and amazing, just a bit too big for me! So, from my understanding, some SDs will get larger than others. I want small as possible, so it just depends on the parents? Though apparently, you want something mixed with a mainland so the temperament isn't too crazy? I'm okay with hook training and stuff, but I want the snake to be relatively calm when I have them out.
Also, will an SD ever get big enough to eat a rabbit..? I'd really prefer not too! It's expensive and sad  (I'd feed F/T) Can I not feed them as much as a yearling and maybe they won't grow as large?
DANG! Some of those mainlands are H U G E! Again, sticking with an SD or an SD cross.
xShevi, that little thing is precious! Love those purples! And so tiny! What do you mean by "tap training"? And, is Juno a pure SD or a cross (Sorry if you already mentioned it)? And you expect her to stay small because of the size of the parents, correct?
Sorry if I forgot something, thanks for all your help everyone!
What cchardwick said is about right.
I'll try and explain it easier, I hope I do this right as the breeder once told me about the process.
When you want a morph super dwarf, you take a mainland that carries the morph, let's say it's an albino, and the super dwarf, this creates a line of super dwarfs that are F1. (Generation 1 of two parents)
The F1 offspring that are visibly albino are (I think 25%) and you breed these back to a different but, this only needs to happen once, pure lineage of super dwarf, this starts to increase the percentage of super dwarf in the offspring that will be F2 50% super dwarf.
Now, this is when it gets weird. Because you breed that F2 offspring back to the original super dwarf you had, of course the albino offspring, to increase the super dwarf percentage more and more.
This creates your F3 offspring that is 75%. You can produce more litters than that but it will never get higher in percentage UNLESS you're breeding super dwarfs together and not for the morph.
There's different ways to do this, and there's a guy called Tom's Retics on Instagram that claims to have 81.5% super dwarfs in morphs..
It's extremely difficult to understand how this works, but this about simplifies the process. Genetics in reptiles work differently than any other species. It takes years on years to get these kind of small retics, and even more so to get with a certain morph. Some day, platinum will be a possibility. Or even goldenchild albino's (Omg)
Now for Juno, she's an F1 litter from two Madu morphed super dwarfs. They were both 75%, and so is Juno. Her parents were small, but not as tiny as Juno will be I think. There's a certain pattern to feeding her, that makes a retic small. Because, what the hell is a super dwarf anyway?
A super dwarf is a retic from a region or island like Madu, or Kalatoa, where their feeding pattern is incredibly different. They only get one season of feeding the whole year round and feed on birds. They only come there for a season and then the birds leave again. So this is why the retics remain small. There is no "real super dwarf" and people say that when you feed a super dwarf like a normal retic, it will grow just as big.
I am not one to try this out, as I said beforehand I just hate feeding a rabbit that will bleed all over the place. Then again, Juno is picky and will only eat rats. People said retics are garbage cans and eat anything, so birds and mice as well. I tried this out with a mouse but she wouldn't have it, only eats rats.
Tap training is when you get a hook, and train her into the pattern that every time you touch her head(top, under, nose, tip of nose, sides) with the hook, you pick her up.
When you do this the first few weeks or months she will flip the heck out, mine actually started crawling up walls and it looked kinda sad to do it now but you can not break this habit. Retics are known to be the most intelligent of snakes and they will read you and learn from you as well as you learn from them. Therefore it's important to stick through the process and get her out whatever the cost, yes even if it means to get a bite. She will learn in time that you won't harm her as this process ensues into a light touch of the hook, then your hand enters the viv, and then you get her out. Always supported by that hook because you don't know what she'll do during the training.
This worked excellent for me, and I've never been striked at using this method. I will do this with all my "dangerous" snakes, because it makes them so much calmer with picking them up.
Lots of text, sorry guys. Some of it could be wrong, but this is about as much as I understood when I was gathering information on retics and sd's.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to xShevi For This Useful Post:
dakski (02-16-2018),Godzilla78 (02-16-2018)
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