New BP Owner - Heating Concern/Tips?

[LtHoneybun]

Hello! I'm a new BP owner, and I was looking for some input and advice on a heating concern I have. Sorry if I end up a little wordy and excessive with detail, I just want people to have accurate information and context.

I use an Exo-Terra heat mat on one side of my cage which usually lets my ambient temperature remain around 80. Sometimes it falls a few degrees under. Not dramatically, only to 77. I have foil on the top of my cage to keep heat and humidity in due to it being a screen. My humidity is fine, it's a stable 50 - 55% as long as I keep an eye on it and add mist if needed. I'm careful to not overdo it and he's not in shed (he did a full shed a week before I got him).

My terrarium is glass and my bedding is aspen. I've been feeling the area where the heat mat is to make sure that it isn't too hot and that my BP won't overheat in the bedding or if it somehow digs down towards the glass. I'm actually a little concerned that it's not enough, especially with the ambient temperature dropping a few degrees every now and then. Aspen doesn't seem to be very conductive. With the temperature/humidity checker I have, it can be a little hard to gauge the cool, ambient, and hot side. I think I'm going to buy more checkers.

I guess my issue is that I'm trying to find that good middle ground. Is there a significant threat that my BP could burn on the glass if it digs down? It's warm but not scorching, and the aspen around it absorbs some of the heat. Because of that though, I don't know if my hot side is hot enough. I've seen conflicting opinions on the usage of lamps versus heat mats, and I don't want to get a lamp if he needs belly heat and I definitely don't want to bake my snake. I've seen people say heat lamps are fine, while others say that belly heat is better and that BPs are nocturnal anyways. Don't want him to be cold either, though.

For clarification and to ease worries, I haven't had him very long. Only a few days, so he hasn't been suffering (I hope) if my temperatures are a little off. I have money, the pet store is only minutes away so if I do need something I can get it ASAP. He's been switching sides from cool to warm, I have hides on both sides, so I think there is a difference in temperature that has him moving. He's also been moving around the cage in general and has been curious (he's 3 months old and was handled almost every day of his life, so he's very used to being handled and I was told he "loves" it. I think this helps him not be stressed by the change, he's not been tense or defensive at all and the previous owner said he has never stricken before).

It might be a little early to tell if my temperatures (and humidity possibly) is off enough that it's hurting his health, but I'd rather correct and figure it out NOW instead of a month or two down the line when he gets sick.

A few other questions I have:

- The tap water vs treated water vs bottled water debate. What do you personally suggest? The tap water in my town isn't very chemical-y and I drink it all the time, which I've seen people say "if you drink it then it's usually safe" but then others say "there's chemicals in tap water that'll hurt a reptile that won't hurt you". I wouldn't mind treating water or buying it bottled if need be, but I want other people's input.

- How can you tell when their neck is in an S shape to strike or if it's just moving/looking at something?

- If he's very loose and moving around the cage instead of balled up under his hides for hours, does that mean he's adjusting well and not stressed? To me he doesn't seem stressed, but since I'm a new owner, I don't want to make assumptions. He was balled up, tense, and hiding his head when he first got here, which is understandable and typical, but now he's no longer doing it. He's not frightened or skittish by movement near him or outside his cage.

- Lighting. Does there need to be a day and night cycle? I have a light that doesn't generate heat that can provide lighting, but I read that bright light can disturb them and that a cycle isn't necessary anyways.

[Plasma]

Hello! I'm a new BP owner, and I was looking for some input and advice on a heating concern I have. Sorry if I end up a little wordy and excessive with detail, I just want people to have accurate information and context.

I use an Exo-Terra heat mat on one side of my cage which usually lets my ambient temperature remain around 80. Sometimes it falls a few degrees under. Not dramatically, only to 77. I have foil on the top of my cage to keep heat and humidity in due to it being a screen. My humidity is fine, it's a stable 50 - 55% as long as I keep an eye on it and add mist if needed. I'm careful to not overdo it and he's not in shed (he did a full shed a week before I got him).

My terrarium is glass and my bedding is aspen. I've been feeling the area where the heat mat is to make sure that it isn't too hot and that my BP won't overheat in the bedding or if it somehow digs down towards the glass. I'm actually a little concerned that it's not enough, especially with the ambient temperature dropping a few degrees every now and then. Aspen doesn't seem to be very conductive. With the temperature/humidity checker I have, it can be a little hard to gauge the cool, ambient, and hot side. I think I'm going to buy more checkers.

I guess my issue is that I'm trying to find that good middle ground. Is there a significant threat that my BP could burn on the glass if it digs down? It's warm but not scorching, and the aspen around it absorbs some of the heat. Because of that though, I don't know if my hot side is hot enough. I've seen conflicting opinions on the usage of lamps versus heat mats, and I don't want to get a lamp if he needs belly heat and I definitely don't want to bake my snake. I've seen people say heat lamps are fine, while others say that belly heat is better and that BPs are nocturnal anyways. Don't want him to be cold either, though.

For clarification and to ease worries, I haven't had him very long. Only a few days, so he hasn't been suffering (I hope) if my temperatures are a little off. I have money, the pet store is only minutes away so if I do need something I can get it ASAP. He's been switching sides from cool to warm, I have hides on both sides, so I think there is a difference in temperature that has him moving. He's also been moving around the cage in general and has been curious (he's 3 months old and was handled almost every day of his life, so he's very used to being handled and I was told he "loves" it. I think this helps him not be stressed by the change, he's not been tense or defensive at all and the previous owner said he has never stricken before).

It might be a little early to tell if my temperatures (and humidity possibly) is off enough that it's hurting his health, but I'd rather correct and figure it out NOW instead of a month or two down the line when he gets sick.

A few other questions I have:

- The tap water vs treated water vs bottled water debate. What do you personally suggest? The tap water in my town isn't very chemical-y and I drink it all the time, which I've seen people say "if you drink it then it's usually safe" but then others say "there's chemicals in tap water that'll hurt a reptile that won't hurt you". I wouldn't mind treating water or buying it bottled if need be, but I want other people's input.

- How can you tell when their neck is in an S shape to strike or if it's just moving/looking at something?

- If he's very loose and moving around the cage instead of balled up under his hides for hours, does that mean he's adjusting well and not stressed? To me he doesn't seem stressed, but since I'm a new owner, I don't want to make assumptions. He was balled up, tense, and hiding his head when he first got here, which is understandable and typical, but now he's no longer doing it. He's not frightened or skittish by movement near him or outside his cage.

- Lighting. Does there need to be a day and night cycle? I have a light that doesn't generate heat that can provide lighting, but I read that bright light can disturb them and that a cycle isn't necessary anyways.

Can you give us a picture of your setup? Do you have a thermostat controlling the heat mat? Your snake is a lot more sensitive to temperatures than you are so it might not seem hot to you but it could be for your snake. Do you have digital thermometers? the stick on ones aren't accurate and if it rips off it could stick to your snake and injur them. Get a digital one with a probe for under the substrate and place it above the mat to measure what the temps are getting to.

[Zincubus]

Holy moly - where to start

The good news is that you have some basic knowledge and you obviously care a great deal PLUS you mentioned you have money

In a few words as I'm just going into a meeting ..

You NEED a thermostat immediately to regulate the heat / heat mat . If it feels warm to you with a body temp of 98.4F it will certainly feel warm to the snake . Maybe in the meantime you can raise the tank off the unit using 4 pieces of slim wood or plastic plastic or something - just to lower the heat whilst leaving some heat there - maybe better than being too hot ?? Just a thought .

Also get yourself some digital thermometers off eBay 3 dollars each



Then buy a cheap digital temp gun ( fancy thermometer) for 10 dollars off EBay - no need to get an expensive one !



Other quickies - normal two water is fine by the sound of it but some do use comes down boiled water to be extra safe .

Also no need for any 'fake' light in my opinion ..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[LtHoneybun]

Can you give us a picture of your setup? Do you have a thermostat controlling the heat mat? Your snake is a lot more sensitive to temperatures than you are so it might not seem hot to you but it could be for your snake. Do you have digital thermometers? the stick on ones aren't accurate and if it rips off it could stick to your snake and injur them. Get a digital one with a probe for under the substrate and place it above the mat to measure what the temps are getting to.

I can't take a picture at this time so I'll try to answer this as best as I can. I do not have the stick on ones, I know they can hurt the snake. I have a digital thermostat that checks temperature and humidity. It's not a probe though which is why it was harder for me to check the substrate.

What do you mean by a thermostat the controls the heat mat?

[PitOnTheProwl]

A properly regulated heat source does little to nothing for ambient temperatures.
You should be monitoring the hottest surface your animal can touch. This would be under the substrate as your animal can and will burrow.
If you are trying to "feel" the temperature, what feels warm to you is actually hot enough to possibly cause burns to a cold blooded animal.
Your pet rock is not smart enough to move off of the hot area either.
You need to get that UTH on a thermostat and then either raise the room temperature or get some type of overhead heating for ambient air temperatures.

[LtHoneybun]

Holy moly - where to start

The good news is that you have some basic knowledge and you obviously care a great deal PLUS you mentioned you have money

In a few words as I'm just going into a meeting ..

You NEED a thermostat immediately to regulate the heat / heat mat . If it feels warm to you with a body temp of 98.4F it will certainly feel warm to the snake . Maybe in the meantime you can raise the tank off the unit using 4 pieces of slim wood or plastic plastic or something - just to lower the heat whilst leaving some heat there - maybe better than being too hot ?? Just a thought .

Also get yourself some digital thermometers off eBay 3 dollars each



Then buy a cheap digital temp gun ( fancy thermometer) for 10 dollars off EBay - no need to get an expensive one !



Other quickies - normal two water is fine by the sound of it but some do use comes down boiled water to be extra safe .

Also no need for any 'fake' light in my opinion ..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks! My heat mat doesn't slide under though, it's supposed to stick to the tank. The substrate around the area isn't exactly warm, only the glass and like a centimeter above it feel warm. I don't know if the area SHOULD feel warm to me. It doesn't so I didn't know if that meant the heat mat wasn't doing its job. I guess since it's sticking to the tank it's not supposed to radiate too much heat.

[PitOnTheProwl]

A few other questions I have:

- The tap water vs treated water vs bottled water debate. What do you personally suggest? The tap water in my town isn't very chemical-y and I drink it all the time, which I've seen people say "if you drink it then it's usually safe" but then others say "there's chemicals in tap water that'll hurt a reptile that won't hurt you". I wouldn't mind treating water or buying it bottled if need be, but I want other people's input. I have used tap water for close to a decade


- If he's very loose and moving around the cage instead of balled up under his hides for hours, does that mean he's adjusting well and not stressed? To me he doesn't seem stressed, but since I'm a new owner, I don't want to make assumptions. He was balled up, tense, and hiding his head when he first got here, which is understandable and typical, but now he's no longer doing it. He's not frightened or skittish by movement near him or outside his cage. Could possibly be way too hot under his hide. An unseen ball python is a happy one.

- Lighting. Does there need to be a day and night cycle? I have a light that doesn't generate heat that can provide lighting, but I read that bright light can disturb them and that a cycle isn't necessary anyways.No you do not need a light cycle unless you have it in a room that does not get any natural ambient lighting and even then not much is needed.

[LtHoneybun]

A properly regulated heat source does little to nothing for ambient temperatures.
You should be monitoring the hottest surface your animal can touch. This would be under the substrate as your animal can and will burrow.
If you are trying to "feel" the temperature, what feels warm to you is actually hot enough to possibly cause burns to a cold blooded animal.
Your pet rock is not smart enough to move off of the hot area either.
You need to get that UTH on a thermostat and then either raise the room temperature or get some type of overhead heating for ambient air temperatures.

I think I figured out what people mean by a thermostat that regulates the heat mat. I'll buy one ASAP! Also my heat mat sticks to the tank which I think is why it doesn't feel radiating to me (not supposed to is what I'm getting at! Radiating heat would signify too much heat?).

Should I replace the sticky heat mat with an heat mat that doesn't make contact?

[LtHoneybun]

He's not out constantly, he does spend a lot of time under his hides. I've just seen him out a few times when I thought he'd still be a tense rock under the hides.

[PitOnTheProwl]

Should I replace the sticky heat mat with an heat mat that doesn't make contact?

No need to if it is working and all heat radiates. The question is how far.