Glad you have him too - sounds like he'll have a much better life now. As far as t-stat goes - I have been using an on-off for two years with no issue, however I don't have it on a UTH (I use a CHE instead) since it takes so long for the CHE to loose heat it does not affect the temp more than a degree inside the hide before it comes on again. That said, between my fiance and I we are almost always home - I even come home on my long days for lunch, so he gets checked frequently.
As for cage size, I don't believe the "they are a nervous species" hype. Some snakes are probably more uncomfortable in large enclosures and rack systems are more convenient for people with large collections, but that does not mean that ALL ball pythons need small dark cages. Mine started in a 40 gallon breeder tank (48x24x16) as a 120 gram baby. He had all sides but the front blacked out, 6 hides, 2 water bowls, plenty of clutter, and most importantly all temps/humidity had been stable for a month before adding the snake. When he hit 800 grams I got him an AP T11 - he only fasted for 1 month over the winter and has eaten like a champ.
I think he appreciates the room, I add new rocks and sticks on a monthly basis with new smells - for enrichment. He cruises and explores almost nightly and has great muscle tone.
I also believe that smaller cages are recommended for new owners because it is easier to maintain and easier not to mess up - not because it in necessary for the snake
No cage is too large - nature is the best template - a snoot can't be booped too much
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