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  1. #4
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    Re: New owner first post light wattage question

    Quote Originally Posted by Nworkie View Post
    Hello I recently became a new owner of a 2.5 month old female Bel (even though her eyes are black not sure if they become blue as she gets older?)
    There are both a black eyed lucy and a blue eyed lucy, it sounds like you have the black eyed morph.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nworkie View Post
    Hello I recently became a new owner of a 2.5 month old female Bel (even though her eyes are black not sure if they become blue as she gets older?) However tho my zilla analog therm/hyrgo read about 80 and 50ish hum. My temp gun roughly is about the same for the sub. Just over 80ish on the warm side. I do have a pad hooked up to a thermostat and that reads between 85 and 90.

    My light is a mini halogen by zilla with a 25 watt day (day) and a 25 watt red (night) with the way that Temps seem to b in the high 70 to low 80 if barely even over 80 I never have seen it hit 85 (zilla analog gauge the digitals are garbage I think. Should I upgrade my main day bulb to a 50 watt halogen so I can have higher ambient air temp. Or should I just leave it the way it is since my BP is acting normal?
    I would leave the setup the way it is regarding the heat bulb, for two reasons: (1) Your ball python is acting normally and eating, always signs of acceptable husbandry for a snake. (2) Your ambient is high 70s to low 80s, just barely over 70, with a hotspot between 85 and 90. This is near an ideal setup per most recommendations - most quote 78-80 as ideal ambient, which you are essentially within. As long as you have a hot spot where the ball python can raise its internal temperature, you are pretty much good. The idea behind a heat gradient is that the snake has access to a range of temperatures and can heat or cool itself as needed, which your snake should have no problem doing in the shown setup.

    The only modifications I might make are (1): move the heat lamp over a bit to one side as it appears that the most direct heat is over the water dish. It understand this may be neccesary to raise humidity, but moving it over to roughly 1/3 the distance on the left should give you a slightly warmer "warm hide", a larger gradient, and still keep heat over the water dish. (2) I would consider replacing those hides with something plastic and easily cleanable (for example, these). Those wooden hides cannot be very easily cleaned, are porous and hold bacteria more easily in humid environments, and also are made of an unknown wood type. Some woods are known to cause skin irritation.
    Last edited by Regius_049; 01-05-2017 at 04:46 PM.

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