About ready to give up!!!

[CloudtheBoa]

Actually it lowers the life of a light. Doesn't do much of anything to a CHE.
I have several that have been going close to five years now on my dragons.

Not that lights last long anyways. Lol I'm lucky to get 2 months out of mine. I use one for lighting my garter tank during the day and one in a tub I set up for heat lamp 3-4 years ago. They're expensive and die quickly so I prefer CHEs or heat panels where I can use them.

I've heard others say CHEs last 3 years on ON/OFF but can last 10+ years if they're on pulse or dimming. If that isn't true then I won't worry so much about having my CHE on a VE-100. I do plan on getting a Herpstat 6 but that will be a month or two, and it's only been on the VE for maybe 8 months now. It was on my Herpstat 2 until I gave that to my retic and bp when I put them in their T12's, had the CHE's themselves for roughly 3 years now.

[Yzmasmom]

Your temp readings sound fine. You don't want the top of the bedding to reach 90F because that means the glass surface will be 100F+. A surface temp on the glass of 91-94F is a bit hot but since you've got substrate to block it off it should be fine. Even if she pushes the bedding aside, 91-94F won't burn her. I would potentially think about lowering the temps so they fall a bit closer to 90F but your current readings sound great.

As far as for the ambient heat there's no reason to ditch it if you don't want to, just get another thermostat to control the lamp. I would honestly suggest a CHE over a light, since you can leave it on 24/7 without disrupting their day/night schedule. If you keep the ambient heat, whether you choose to stay with the light or go with a CHE, it needs a dimming and pulse-proportional thermostat. ON/OFF thermostats can lower the lifespan of a CHE, and a light definitely needs dimming so that it's not just repeatedly turning off and on.

The thermostat probe never reads above 93, so i don't think the lamp is heating it. The above light doesn't seem to affect the glass temp.

[Yzmasmom]

Then you are fine.
I you feel you must use something overhead then use it on the cool side.

Don't know why everyone over complicates heating.........

So you are saying only use the uth as is and take the overhead ambient black light away? The surface reaches 85 outside the hot hut with the light and uth. In the hut with the light and uth it's 90/91, with the glass at 91/93.

[blue roses]

Snakes will thermoregulate themselves, all my guys go from one hide to another depending on the temp. they want. I do keep 3 hides in my tank for my young snake, just in case she wants to choose the mid range temp. It just for her comfort. I wouldn't worry unless the temps take a sharp rise or lower. She'll go where she is most comfortable.

[chrid16371]

So you are saying only use the uth as is and take the overhead ambient black light away? The surface reaches 85 outside the hot hut with the light and uth. In the hut with the light and uth it's 90/91, with the glass at 91/93.

Yes just use the uth alone, if anything you only need to use it for the cool side on a dimmer only if the cool side gets below 75.

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[Yzmasmom]

Yes just use the uth alone, if anything you only need to use it for the cool side on a dimmer only if the cool side gets below 75.

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It just feels weird not to use the liget, since our beardie tank goes to 65 at night if the light isn't on, (it blew in the middle of the night once.) So, the glass would be 92 but the surface of her bedding would be cold. As it is, the hot side at the top outside her hut is 85 WITH the light. When she kicks the probe out of the hut I know because the temp drops to 83-85. If I were to turn the light off, the glass would stay 92, but the surface would drop.

She never goes on the hot side. She cruises and then goes back to the cool side.

[Yzmasmom]

I think once we move, I will be able to drop the light because we will be in an older farmhouse, instead of a freezing basement apartment.

[CloudtheBoa]

It just feels weird not to use the liget, since our beardie tank goes to 65 at night if the light isn't on, (it blew in the middle of the night once.) So, the glass would be 92 but the surface of her bedding would be cold. As it is, the hot side at the top outside her hut is 85 WITH the light. When she kicks the probe out of the hut I know because the temp drops to 83-85. If I were to turn the light off, the glass would stay 92, but the surface would drop.

She never goes on the hot side. She cruises and then goes back to the cool side.

Are you using the thermostat reading to determine ambient temps? Because if the probe is pushed out of place the temp shouldn't be dropping but rising because the thermostat will run the light more. (The thermostat will read lower temps however because the probe is no longer in the target area.)

If you're not using an independent thermometer to measure air temps (temp guns don't measure air temps only surface temps), then you should get one.


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[Yzmasmom]

Are you using the thermostat reading to determine ambient temps? Because if the probe is pushed out of place the temp shouldn't be dropping but rising because the thermostat will run the light more. (The thermostat will read lower temps however because the probe is no longer in the target area.)

If you're not using an independent thermometer to measure air temps (temp guns don't measure air temps only surface temps), then you should get one.


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I have the probe for the thermostat on the glass above the mat. It shows the set temp and the actual tenp of the mat. Then I have a digital thermometer at the top of the substrate in her hut to measure the temp there.

[chrid16371]

Your thermostat probe should be between the uth and bottom of glass. If water, urine, or poop were to get on it then your thermostat would heat wrong and if your snake were to bump the thermostat probe it could not be on the glass and heat way to high and cause burns.

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