Considering taking in this rescue...

[KaylaEliuk]

1) Common BCI. Not bad looking, weight is good - he's nice and square [] like he should be. If he looked like this () he'd be fat.

2) Do not use a separate tub for feeding. Most snakes other than ball pythons remain "foody" for over a day after eating - where there is one rodent there might be another! Feed them in their enclosure. Moving any large, foody snake is begging for a nasty bite.

3) It's not clear from your post but I would switch him to f/t rats also, if that's not what he ate for you already. Eventually this guy could get large enough to eat jumbo rats, and a live jumbo can inflict damage on a snake very quickly.

4) I would set up a QT tub that's bigger than a 20L tank for him, to give him a chance to stretch out if he wants.

Okay thanks. I was just worried about him ingesting substrate. I wouldn't have worried if he was on eco earth (what I will probably put him on if I take him) but he is on some kind of wood chips. I think it is probably pine, as it doesn't feel soft like aspen does.

And I did feed a frozen/thawed rat. That is what my BP gets. I couldn't feed live even if I wanted to, as I live in Canada and live rats are illegal here.

Thank you for the advice!

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[KaylaEliuk]

The forehead?! Jeeze, sorry about that. But much of what has been said is true, it was definitely in hunt/kill/eat mode when you moved him (her?). It's a beautiful BCI, by the way (technically, it's just BI now). I mean definitely quarantine it for a few months minimum, but looks like you have a fine addition to your collection. If you don't know boas, look at care sheets and keep reading this forum, it's pure gold.
My quick 2 cents would be to feed sparingly, I dont know what snakes you have already but one of the things that make boas unique is their exceptionally slow metabolism. An adult (3 to 4 years old) shouldn't need more than one appropriately sized meal (same girth as it's mid section) per month. They really are wonderfully low maintence when kept properly, one meal a month and they poop even less. Also keep handling him (but not for 2 to 3 days after eating). Mean boas are reletivley rare, but more often than not it's just a symptom of insufficient handling time. He will learn that you are not a threat, but just a squishy heated jungle-gym.
Above all, enjoy him!

Oh wow that is slow! Thanks for that one for sure. That is one thing I have seen conflicting opinions about on here. I may have fed him biweekly like my other two!

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[KaylaEliuk]

Unfortunately I don't know his age or if he even had a name!

He may have to stay in the 20L just until I can find him something bigger (probably on kijiji) because our walmarts suck for container selection and we don't have container stores or anything like that where I live either.

I currently have an anery corn and female Cinnamon ball. So this guy would definitely be something different haha.
I am eventually going to get all of them into PVC cages, but they are expensive so I want to buy them as their adult enclosures, and probably at a show.

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[bcr229]

He may have to stay in the 20L just until I can find him something bigger (probably on kijiji) because our walmarts suck for container selection and we don't have container stores or anything like that where I live either.

If you have a Target, Lowes, Home Depot in the area they carry under-bed tubs that work well for snakes. I think WalMart also does "site to store" where you can order and pay for stuff online that they don't normally stock in your local store, they have it shipped to the store, and you pick it up.

[KaylaEliuk]

If you have a Target, Lowes, Home Depot in the area they carry under-bed tubs that work well for snakes. I think WalMart also does "site to store" where you can order and pay for stuff online that they don't normally stock in your local store, they have it shipped to the store, and you pick it up.

I probably wouldn't have thought of a hardware store! Thanks

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[Gio]

1) Common BCI. Not bad looking, weight is good - he's nice and square [] like he should be. If he looked like this () he'd be fat.

2) Do not use a separate tub for feeding. Most snakes other than ball pythons remain "foody" for over a day after eating - where there is one rodent there might be another! Feed them in their enclosure. Moving any large, foody snake is begging for a nasty bite.

3) It's not clear from your post but I would switch him to f/t rats also, if that's not what he ate for you already. Eventually this guy could get large enough to eat jumbo rats, and a live jumbo can inflict damage on a snake very quickly.

4) I would set up a QT tub that's bigger than a 20L tank for him, to give him a chance to stretch out if he wants.

I really don't have much better advice than what is posted above. It is a good looking snake keep it, grow it slow and you'll be fine it is a good rescue because you know some history at least a little and that is helpful. Do as the above post instructs and things will work out.

[Gio]

The forehead?! Jeeze, sorry about that. But much of what has been said is true, it was definitely in hunt/kill/eat mode when you moved him (her?). It's a beautiful BCI, by the way (technically, it's just BI now). I mean definitely quarantine it for a few months minimum, but looks like you have a fine addition to your collection. If you don't know boas, look at care sheets and keep reading this forum, it's pure gold.
My quick 2 cents would be to feed sparingly, I dont know what snakes you have already but one of the things that make boas unique is their exceptionally slow metabolism. An adult (3 to 4 years old) shouldn't need more than one appropriately sized meal (same girth as it's mid section) per month. They really are wonderfully low maintence when kept properly, one meal a month and they poop even less. Also keep handling him (but not for 2 to 3 days after eating). Mean boas are reletivley rare, but more often than not it's just a symptom of insufficient handling time. He will learn that you are not a threat, but just a squishy heated jungle-gym.
Above all, enjoy him!

It really seems like people are starting to get it. I like this post as well. Boa constrictors are not garbage cans for food like some folks allow them to be. Yes they will eat almost anything at almost any time but there is good reason not to push them anything written by Vincent Russo or Gus Rentfro is worth reading when it comes to the care for boa constrictors It is nice to see a handful of people understanding how to feed these animals. My personal opinion is when winter comes they should not eat at all. This comes with some variables but if you are not breeding these animals winter is a time in their natral environment that they are not exposed to much food if any. It is best to mimic their natural setting if you can to an extent in captivity. Vincent Russo stated they grow more when they are not fed. I have found this to be true in my situation as I did not feed my male this past winter.

My last two posts are from a cell phone so I am apologizing upfront if the grammar punctuation and spelling is a bit off

[L.West]

My new albino coral BCI Male is just 174 grams and 24" long. I was instructed to feed him a small mouse (very small mouse) every 10 days. Didn't seem like enough food but the breeder assured me it was fine.

Does this sound correct in your opinions.

Thanks

[KaylaEliuk]

So I know the temps and humidity they need, and I have a good idea on tank sizes. The only thing that I see so many conflicting opinions on is feed schedule.
He is about 4 feet I would guess. And a healthy weight. I have no idea of age. How often should he get a f/t rat?

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[BigLou3]

I would recommend getting a scale and weighing him. We generally feed our boa 10-15% of her body weight. She is still young so it is on a more frequent schedule right now. I know that adult boas are generally feed on a 2-4 week schedule depending on exercise and time of year. The most appropriate way to determine proper feeding by my understanding is that they maintain the "square" body shape.


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