1) 68-69 in the winter with only a UTH and a fluorescent tube, I doubt will work alone. You possibly might get away with it if you used hard sheet insulation like for attics or walls on the bottom, sides and top of the cage but I just don't think it will work.
1a) A RHP alone will work just fine but no problems doing a UTH and RHP for winter. Just turn whichever on in the spring and fall and turn both on for cold winters. The only downside is this will mean you a T-stat that can monitor 2 heat sources like a Herpstat 2 or Vivarium Electronics. You could also get away with a couple Jump Start on/off T-stats but I wouldn't recommend those. I personally use Herpstats for all my gals.
2) I always get a response back from Ali in a day or 2.
3) I believe AP offers led lights now. You can also check out Reptile Basics. They have different length 5/8" led tubes which plug into an external ballast which I've been pretty interested in. Mounting them behind the door lip of an AP cage. Also you can go to ay hardware store and find led strips which are pretty easy to mount with small screws or look online.
4) I haven't heard of AP cages warping mainly because I think the front center pillar holds it up. I heard Vision cages warp like no tomorrow and my Pro-Line(Constrictors NW) cage has some sag in the center after about 3 years. Nothing big but you do notice it at the top of the door gap. I would say cages from AP, boaphiles and Constrictor NW will last you years. Even though my Constrictors NW cage does have a little sag in the middle, I will be putting my BP in it after I get my 2 AP cages for my 2 boas. And its still fine other than the cosmetic sag.
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