Baby Ball in critical condition - how to switch from tube feeding to self-feeding

[BCS]

How many hatchling have you started? How many animals failing to thrive have you put back on track? You can disagree but when offered a first meal you will get a higher percentage of success (hatchling taking their first meal successfully first time offered) if that first meal is a mouse (that comes from someone that used to start everything on rats and no longer does)


Not to mention that the animal in this case when it was eating was eating mice so trying to switch is the last thing that needs to be done at this point it need to feed what it used to feed on and again mice are more enticing.

Do my snake prefer rats over mice? Yes they do but my snakes however are not the issue here.

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I knew you would agrue, but this animal is obviously refusing the mice, even before the OP bought the BP. So obviously there is something wrong and it does not hurt to try something else... if the snake is simply not into mice, rats or ASFs are a good alternative.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

I knew you would agrue, but this animal is obviously refusing the mice, even before the OP bought the BP. So obviously there is something wrong and it does not hurt to try something else... if the snake is simply not into mice, rats or ASFs are a good alternative.

Because the husbandry is off not because the prey is wrong, trying something else as in alternative prey is only worthy once the husbandry is fixed and it still fails.

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[Stewart_Reptiles]

OP is he what you need to do as the enclosure is still way too big.

Get a 6 quarts tubs, lay 1 inch layer of aspen, get a 6 inches plastic flower pot saucer to use as an hide.

Provide a hot spot of 86/88 at the most on the hot spot and 76/78 on the cool side.

Even a dark tubs or enclosed rack the animal may still feel insecure so the smaller the tub the better.

Hides also need to be very tight hence the plastic flower pot saucer.

Aspen will also allow the animal to burry itself adding more security.

Once you have done the changes, NO HANDLING, no tube feeding, for a week, once a week as passed offer a live hopper mouse....it may fail at first given what the animal has been through but if it does no more tube feeding there are other options but you will see when you get there.

When offering leave the mouse near the tub for 30 min to an hour before feeding offering a little food and water. Than put the mouse in the enclosure and close the tub, try offering at dark. If not eaten remove after 20 min.

NO HANDLING un the animal eats on it's own 3 times if successful.

Your setup will look like this plus the flower pot saucer





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[PitOnTheProwl]

Deb has it down.

I may have missed it but have you tried a LIVE small hopper mouse yet?

Also you vet doesnt really sound too reptile smart either.

Relax and dont handle the little one till you get it feeding.

[CantHelpIt]

the probe taped to the inside of the tank at the hottest spot, under her substrate (paper towels).

People usually avoid putting tape in their enclosures because if your snake goes under the paper towel and rubs off the tape she could hurt herself.

Other than that, I have no useful information but good luck on getting her to eat, you've been getting lots of good info

[Mr. Misha]

In regards to the housing, make sure that the hide you create/get for her is snug. The reason most Balls will refuse food is security. I'd also add fake foilage to the setup Deborah recommended.

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[Ellizaryn]

People usually avoid putting tape in their enclosures because if your snake goes under the paper towel and rubs off the tape she could hurt herself.

I haven't heard this before. I'm using blue painter's paint as indicated in a tutorial form another forum I've been visiting. Where is the best place to put the probe?

[Ellizaryn]

OP is he what you need to do as the enclosure is still way too big.

Get a 6 quarts tubs, lay 1 inch layer of aspen, get a 6 inches plastic flower pot saucer to use as an hide.

Provide a hot spot of 86/88 at the most on the hot spot and 76/78 on the cool side.

Even a dark tubs or enclosed rack the animal may still feel insecure so the smaller the tub the better.

Hides also need to be very tight hence the plastic flower pot saucer.

Aspen will also allow the animal to burry itself adding more security.

Once you have done the changes, NO HANDLING, no tube feeding, for a week, once a week as passed offer a live hopper mouse....it may fail at first given what the animal has been through but if it does no more tube feeding there are other options but you will see when you get there.

When offering leave the mouse near the tub for 30 min to an hour before feeding offering a little food and water. Then put the mouse in the enclosure and close the tub, try offering at dark. If not eaten remove after 20 min.

NO HANDLING unto the animal eats on it's own 3 times if successful.

Your setup will look like this plus the flower pot saucer





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Six qt seems small. Is this what I'm aiming for?

I have Aspen but heard that it can choke the snake if she accidentally swallows it from feeding. Should I be concerned?

How can you have a "hot side" and "cool side" in a tub that small?

I also don't understand what you mean by the flowerpot saucer. So what is currently in the picture is the hide or a water bowl? Do I need both? Are the 6" upturned bowls I have pictured insufficient? Could you post a link to what I need to buy?

She's currently in an opaque bin. With a clear bin, do I just rely on towels to keep out the light?

Also, should I be worried about household sounds disturbing her?

Are these temperatures your recommendation for day and night, or should it be adjusted for night?




Thank you so much for you help.

[Ellizaryn]

Note about my post from above:

I have asked my veterinarian all of these questions, but I'm looking for new opinions.

[CantHelpIt]

I don't know about painters tape. Duct tape has been known to rip off scales from snakes, therefore i wouldn't risk any adhesives in the tank.
The probe can go between the uth and bottom of the tub on the outside, then you can check your temps with a IR temp gun to dial them in.
Some people have used hot glue to keep the probe on the inside of the tub but that is not as easily removed for cleaning/moving or anything else.

That is the the correct tub. They measure approximately 14" long 8" wide. It may seem small but that is what you're going for, you want the snake to feel secure. Once it has been feeding well and put on weight you can look into larger housing.

I would not worry about problems from the snake consuming a piece or two of aspen. When I used aspen I fed on it without a problem, not once did a piece stick to a food item ( I don't thaw in water so they weren't wet) but if you are worried you can put down a piece of paper towel or a paper plate as long as you watch they don't swallow the paper towel.

A lot of hatchling racks using 6 qts will use back heat to create a warmer side or by using a narrow strip of heat tape. If you already have a big piece of heat tape I would simply put the tub with only a part of it on the heat tape. (probe between bottom of tub and heat tape)

You should have a small water bowl and a hide. Its hard to tell from the pictures but if your snake can curl up in the hide tightly so its touching them on most if not all sides then it should work fine.

As for sounds I wouldn't worry. Snakes sense vibrations and hear through sound waves so unless you have a blender right next to her she should be fine but to keep stress down it would be best to move her to a low traffic area.

Lastly, the temps should be constant day and night. A night drop is not needed