Grumpy, dry skin, and won't eat

[gameonpython]

Unfortunately I have not kept pure diamonds because their unique needs do not fit the parameters of my snake room climate. I have kept many diamond intergrades including 75% diamond. The truth is I keep these in the same conditions as jungles and coastals and have done so with great success (luck?).

Here’s a link to a diamond care sheet.
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Snak...Python-Basics/

Of course, all care sheets have their own opinion, but this one is authored by Stan Chiras the first to reproduce diamonds in captivity outside of Australia. He goes into detail about the trials and tribulations of the early m.s.spilota keepers/breeders here in the U.S. I believe the care sheet is rather dated, but the experiences that Stan and others had in the 70’s remains unchanged. Of note is that it was found that a winter brumation period of 2-3 months at 50-60F with no hot spot was found to be very beneficial whether breeding or not. Year round warmer temps were found to have a negative effect on the overall health and longevity of the species.

Of all the Caresheets I've read so far, this one is my favorite. It's very straightforward.


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[Gio]

Of all the Caresheets I've read so far, this one is my favorite. It's very straightforward.


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Right,

Which is the one I provided in the very first response.

I also stand by my recommendation which was seconded by Reinz to buy THE COMPLETE CARPET PYTHON . There is some very specific information about diamonds in the book.

Personally I would invest in the largest cage you can, within reason, and provide wide a range of climate zones.

Provide some "climate levels" as well. Perches, a "high hide box" (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ing-IJ-Carpets), a floor hide and some moss coupled with cypress bedding for substrate, and as mentioned here, consider using a radiant heat panel (RHP) to heat the cage.

Here is a RHP setup with perches. This is a coastal mix/mutt. There are floor hides, and perches. The perch directly under the panel obviously has the warmest temp in the cage. The other areas all have slightly different temps.




Again, pure diamonds are a different bag of tricks. As I understand it, once they are crossed with another type of carpet their specific requirements tend to breed out diminishing, or totally negating the exacting husbandry the pure specimens require.

Your sister may or may not have been doing well with the animal. Reptiles tend to exhibit illnesses that stem from long term errors on our part and they don't often show up immediately. I'm not going to speculate there, as we are moving toward getting you on the right track.

You have some time to fix things, but not a lot. Handling should be extremely limited and only done when absolutely necessary. The same for feeding unless there is an obvious need for it which should not be the case with an older snake.

ANY stress the snake feels will compound the problems and the downward spiral will continue.

STUDY the care sheet, most importantly the temps. Buy that book too. Don't discount an experienced reptile vet if things don't improve.

Good luck.

[gameonpython]

I am extremely concerned right now. Dexter is in blue right now and has actually seemed a bit better with most screen closed off and the addition of a plant to help with humidity. His skin is lifted as much and he is starting to get that natural shine back. However, when I went to mist him tonight I noticed something strange. Upon further inspection, I realized it was a dead rat. There was not a strong smell, but the rat looked as though it had been regurgitated. There was a gray slimy matter surrounding the rat. This makes no sense to me at all, because he hasn't eaten for a month. Does anyone have pictures of snake vomit? I'm so sorry, I stupidly threw away the mess before taking a pic. I'm really worried about him!!


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[gameonpython]

Okay, I figured pics are really needed in this situation so I got the thing out of the garbage and I took some pics.


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[KMG]

That seems like a long time between eating and a regurg. Is there any way the rat was missed closer to the last feeding?

[Reinz]

I am extremely concerned right now. Dexter is in blue right now and has actually seemed a bit better with most screen closed off and the addition of a plant to help with humidity. His skin is lifted as much and he is starting to get that natural shine back. However, when I went to mist him tonight I noticed something strange. Upon further inspection, I realized it was a dead rat. There was not a strong smell, but the rat looked as though it had been regurgitated. There was a gray slimy matter surrounding the rat. This makes no sense to me at all, because he hasn't eaten for a month. Does anyone have pictures of snake vomit? I'm so sorry, I stupidly threw away the mess before taking a pic. I'm really worried about him!!


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That looks like regurge to me even though the gray color is gone. When one of my Coastals regurged it was slimy and gray as well.

Keep in mind that there is a difference between vomit and regurge. Regurge is undigested food, vomit is more broken down, partially digested.

I agree with KMG, one month since eating and regurge doesn't add up. Regurge usually occurs within a few days.

Maybe Dexter regurged in his hide and dragged it out a month later?

Be sure his next meal is the next size smaller. His esophagus is still repairing itself from the damage done to it from the regurge. Also, wait 2weeks to feed again from time of the regurge, which may be hard to figure out in this case.

[gameonpython]

Too dry and he ended up dehydrated, too humid and now he has mild scale rot. I've moved him to a hospital tank with paper towel, his heat lamp, two hides and a small water dish. Picking up some betadine cream later too.

I know people always ask this question, but is it possible for a snake to go in blue and not shed? A week ago he went blue so I kept the humidity up. After he returned to normal, I waited several days but no shed. I gave him a bath today to try and get the shed off(assuming it was stuck)which led me to discover the scale rot, but no skin.


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[Reinz]

Sorry to hear the bad news.

I can't see how JUST too high of humidity would cause scale rot.

Bacteria + high humidity is a high risk for scale rot.

4 of my snakes live in their water bowls with proper heat and humidity. Two of them are Carpets.

When I first moved Lizzy, my Coastal Carpet to a PVC I over watered the Eco-earth and had humidity in the 80-90's for a month. I was constantly airing out the cage with a fan, but good levels were short lived.

To get the scale rot bacteria must be present.

Maybe you missed some excretions while spot cleaning. Or the snake layed in his own mess which got imbedded under the scales. That along with high humidity could cause the rot.

Blue/shed

Just recently I had 2 snakes go blue and did not shed. One was my juvie Jungle Carpet.

My adult BP seems to do it about once a yr.


I sure hope your Diamond heals up well.


Esmarelda, Jungle Carpet




Lizzy, Coastal Carpet

[gameonpython]

Sorry to hear the bad news.

I can't see how JUST too high of humidity would cause scale rot.

Bacteria + high humidity is a high risk for scale rot.

4 of my snakes live in their water bowls with proper heat and humidity. Two of them are Carpets.

When I first moved Lizzy, my Coastal Carpet to a PVC I over watered the Eco-earth and had humidity in the 80-90's for a month. I was constantly airing out the cage with a fan, but good levels were short lived.

To get the scale rot bacteria must be present.

Maybe you missed some excretions while spot cleaning. Or the snake layed in his own mess which got imbedded under the scales. That along with high humidity could cause the rot.

Blue/shed

Just recently I had 2 snakes go blue and did not shed. One was my juvie Jungle Carpet.

My adult BP seems to do it about once a yr.


I sure hope your Diamond heals up well.


Esmarelda, Jungle Carpet




Lizzy, Coastal Carpet

All I think of is that regurgitated rat that I somehow didn't notice, I guess that would be the bacteria. ?Where can I get the betadine? Also, should I apply it daily?


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[Prognathodon]

Betadine, aka providone-iodine, should be available at any pharmacy, and pharmacy sections of larger stores. Ointment is most common in my experience, but it is also available as a wash/solution.


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