Male Pastel Sugar price?

[StoneyMc]

I dangle it first then just left the snake with the rat for like 10-15 min to see if he would eat it

Is he showing any sign of shedding or starting to? Ex. Dull in color, cloudy or greyish eyes?

[Alan664]

Is he showing any sign of shedding or starting to? Ex. Dull in color, cloudy or greyish eyes?

Not at all and no mites

[StoneyMc]

Not at all and no mites

Fill a tubba wear bowl or something to where your snake could soak/submerge not completely full though with warm water not hot and put just enough mouthwash in it to give it a bluish green tint let him soak in it with a lid in it (with poked holes in the lid of course) for 15 to 20 minutes. This will expose some or any mites if he has any. I recently picked up a pinstripe little did I know he had em and my other 2 caught em so this step is an everyday thing in my house until my PAM (prevent a mite) comes in.

[John1982]

I got him like 1-2 weeks ago and offered food 5 days later after letting the snake get used to its new environment...the temp and humidity is fine, 1 hide, and substrate is cypress mulch

So in 2-9 days(depending on if you got him 1 or 2 weeks ago) you have tried everything and are ready to resort to assist feeding. Your habitat could use some minor tweaking but I'll tell you now, over offering to an already shy feeder will only compound the issue. I wait 5-7 days between feeding attempts when I'm trying to figure out a snake's preference. Switch to a smaller, tighter fitting hide(you can just pack some newspaper or sphagnum moss in the larger one if you like) and wait 1 week then drop a hopper mouse in the enclosure. If he doesn't take that, wait another week before your next offer. He's a bit thin but not anywhere near where I'd consider assisting. I would take at least several weeks of offering different food types before resorting to an assisted feed. The reason larger enclosures can be a pain to get picky eaters feeding is many want to strike from the security of their hide; the larger the enclosure, the easier it will be for the prey to avoid the snake altogether.

Here are the food types I'd offer in chronological order, all offered after dark:
week 1) live hopper mouse - if your set up is indeed on point these are seldom refused
week 2) live pinky rat - set in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 3) frozen/thawed mouse - set it in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 4) f/t rat fuzzy - set in front of hide and leave overnight

For some super shy feeders the hopper's movements are too much. Some prefer a little movement so a pinky is used for that and bonus if they take it since it's a rat. Some prefer even less action so the frozen/thawed are offered last and notice I'm offering a different prey species each week. If the snake shies from the first mouse you are giving him 2 weeks before offering another.

[Alan664]

So in 2-9 days(depending on if you got him 1 or 2 weeks ago) you have tried everything and are ready to resort to assist feeding. Your habitat could use some minor tweaking but I'll tell you now, over offering to an already shy feeder will only compound the issue. I wait 5-7 days between feeding attempts when I'm trying to figure out a snake's preference. Switch to a smaller, tighter fitting hide(you can just pack some newspaper or sphagnum moss in the larger one if you like) and wait 1 week then drop a hopper mouse in the enclosure. If he doesn't take that, wait another week before your next offer. He's a bit thin but not anywhere near where I'd consider assisting. I would take at least several weeks of offering different food types before resorting to an assisted feed. The reason larger enclosures can be a pain to get picky eaters feeding is many want to strike from the security of their hide; the larger the enclosure, the easier it will be for the prey to avoid the snake altogether.

Here are the food types I'd offer in chronological order, all offered after dark:
week 1) live hopper mouse - if your set up is indeed on point these are seldom refused
week 2) live pinky rat - set in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 3) frozen/thawed mouse - set it in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 4) f/t rat fuzzy - set in front of hide and leave overnight

For some super shy feeders the hopper's movements are too much. Some prefer a little movement so a pinky is used for that and bonus if they take it since it's a rat. Some prefer even less action so the frozen/thawed are offered last and notice I'm offering a different prey species each week. If the snake shies from the first mouse you are giving him 2 weeks before offering another.

Thanks for the info i will for sure try that, i already have provent a mite and reptile spray but i did not want to use it since i could not see any mites

[alan12013]

Johns response is pretty much spot on! So if they shipped you this snake before adjusting it there on site then it's dependent on the breeder to make sure it ate before shipping it out. Knowing my fellow humans' nature I'd assume that it was probably fed a minimal number of times before shipping so probably once... I would really focus on making him relaxed. Do your research and apply it. Besides offering food every 2-7 days I wouldn't disturb him at all. That's just what I'd do, not necessarily the best way to do things. As far as mites, I've only had it happen once but I looked in the fold of skin under the jaw and I heard from reading online that it's the best place to look at first for a quick and easy inspection.