Small woman.

[iPanda]

Not all dwarfs stay super small ;D Super dwarfs stay around 6-8ft, but I've seen dwarfs around 15-17. While that's significantly smaller than 22ft, as the lovely Reptileexperts points out to me, it's still pretty dang big. =D

[xFenrir]

Definitely get your Dwarfs or Super Dwarfs from a credible breeder who can tell you the genetics, otherwise you run the chance of your "Dwarf Retic" being a "surprise 20ft Retic".

Like others have said, reptileexperts is the guy I would go to about Retics on this site. He should be able to point you in the right direction for what you want. Also remember that Reticulated Pythons are on the Lacey Act, so in order to obtain one legally you have to purchase one within your state, which might limit your choices.

[Borgy76]

Get a male, they generally stay alot smaller then the females.

[OsirisRa32]

They are very intelligent, for a snake. Comparing our intelligence with that of retics is apples and oranges.

They are sure as heck WAY more intelligent than a BP...more inquisitive and seemingly more aware of surroundings, and activity. At least based on my personal observations of my limited retic collection.

Sorry Rob...I reread this and I don't want you to think I'm arguing with you...definitely not and quite agree snake vs human intelligence is apples v oranges.

[vangarret2000]

I just thought a more intelligent animal might not view me as a food items but rather the person giving him food.

This first part of this is right. They won't necessarily see you as food, but they don't have the intelligence to view you as the one that gives them the food. They won't think " this person feeds me, I don't need to hurt them". But Snakes will learn to tolerate humans. They can learn they aren't necessarily a threat to them so that's why you can handle them etc. At the same time they still will always view you as a threat at least a little. That's is why people can have a puppy dog tame snake for a year, or five years, or ten years, or even more without ever being bit, but then one day out of nowhere they get tagged.

Even when snakes get into "food mode" as I've heard people call it. Once they sense prey is there you are pretty much no longer even there. They wait and then strike out at the first thing that seems like it is food to them. That's why they might take your hand. Some really aggressive feeder will even strike(and sometimes try to actually eat) paper towels, décor in their tank etc.

[Painted]

This first part of this is right. They won't necessarily see you as food, but they don't have the intelligence to view you as the one that gives them the food. They won't think " this person feeds me, I don't need to hurt them". But Snakes will learn to tolerate humans. They can learn they aren't necessarily a threat to them so that's why you can handle them etc. At the same time they still will always view you as a threat at least a little. That's is why people can have a puppy dog tame snake for a year, or five years, or ten years, or even more without ever being bit, but then one day out of nowhere they get tagged.

Even when snakes get into "food mode" as I've heard people call it. Once they sense prey is there you are pretty much no longer even there. They wait and then strike out at the first thing that seems like it is food to them. That's why they might take your hand. Some really aggressive feeder will even strike(and sometimes try to actually eat) paper towels, décor in their tank etc.

Thanks that helps me understand their habits a bit better. I actually have an aggressive ball python who attacks everything if that isn't odd. He's always been like that and everyone else in my reptile family is peaceful and sweet.

I will definitely seek a renown breeder if I can in fact afford a super dwarf- I heard they are much, much more expensive. But more research is needed Thanks so much for helping me on this. Definitely opened my understanding and options up a lot.

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[reptileexperts]

Definitely get your Dwarfs or Super Dwarfs from a credible breeder who can tell you the genetics, otherwise you run the chance of your "Dwarf Retic" being a "surprise 20ft Retic".

Like others have said, reptileexperts is the guy I would go to about Retics on this site. He should be able to point you in the right direction for what you want. Also remember that Reticulated Pythons are on the Lacey Act, so in order to obtain one legally you have to purchase one within your state, which might limit your choices.

appreciate the shout outs - note: They are not on the lacy act - BUT they are up for consideration RIGHT NOW. Crazy times ahead of the reptile community with these new species trying to get added . . . ugh . . .

- - - Updated - - -

Not all dwarfs stay super small ;D Super dwarfs stay around 6-8ft, but I've seen dwarfs around 15-17. While that's significantly smaller than 22ft, as the lovely Reptileexperts points out to me, it's still pretty dang big. =D

I sense sarcasm in the use of the word "Lovely" haha

[reptileexperts]

Thanks that helps me understand their habits a bit better. I actually have an aggressive ball python who attacks everything if that isn't odd. He's always been like that and everyone else in my reptile family is peaceful and sweet.

I will definitely seek a renown breeder if I can in fact afford a super dwarf- I heard they are much, much more expensive. But more research is needed Thanks so much for helping me on this. Definitely opened my understanding and options up a lot.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Superdwarf are much more expensive when you get into high % or morphs that are up and coming. Example, a 50% SD Goldenchild retails for 3k, a 50% Jampea (dwarf) Goldenchild retails for $1500, and a Goldenchild (which already has some dwarf blood in this morph) retails for about 500-600 at this day. (700 for a lavender albino as of last night, insane).

Pure Dwarfs, lovely in their own rights (Jampea for example) will only set you back $300, pure Kalatoa, super duper dwarf stuff, will set you back cloer to 450 for a pure normal, and 1250 for a pure Anery (males only) Females of either will be significantly higher. If you are truly interested in their attitude, a superdwarf will give you all that in such a small package (male kalatoa is basically the size of a corn snake).

Crosses is where things get tricky, and potentially expensive. Some crosses will be 50%, 50% f2, 75%, or in the case of vital exotics 62.5% (they are the only people I know producing that odd percentage). I've done a lot of information write ups on this forum about the crosses and some expectation levels. You can learn more on my youtube channel

www.youtube.com/reptileexperts

As far as your size, my better half is not an inch over 5'1" . . . And she handles our 13' Purple Dwarf Reticulated python by herself a lot. Heck, she opens the cage and gives her some love when we're in the room. HOWEVER, this is something that you only do when A) the snake is awake and knows you're there, B) Food is not in the room, C) you do not smell like food.

Retics are such a rewarding species. I'm undergoing a collection revamp right now, and my directive is to focus my collection entirely of retics, but even then just a select few. I'll update everyone in another thread that wants to know as things unfold.

Anything else, please feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll get with you as I can. Not on the forums as much these days!

[Painted]

Superdwarf are much more expensive when you get into high % or morphs that are up and coming. Example, a 50% SD Goldenchild retails for 3k, a 50% Jampea (dwarf) Goldenchild retails for $1500, and a Goldenchild (which already has some dwarf blood in this morph) retails for about 500-600 at this day. (700 for a lavender albino as of last night, insane).

Pure Dwarfs, lovely in their own rights (Jampea for example) will only set you back $300, pure Kalatoa, super duper dwarf stuff, will set you back cloer to 450 for a pure normal, and 1250 for a pure Anery (males only) Females of either will be significantly higher. If you are truly interested in their attitude, a superdwarf will give you all that in such a small package (male kalatoa is basically the size of a corn snake).

Crosses is where things get tricky, and potentially expensive. Some crosses will be 50%, 50% f2, 75%, or in the case of vital exotics 62.5% (they are the only people I know producing that odd percentage). I've done a lot of information write ups on this forum about the crosses and some expectation levels. You can learn more on my youtube channel

www.youtube.com/reptileexperts

As far as your size, my better half is not an inch over 5'1" . . . And she handles our 13' Purple Dwarf Reticulated python by herself a lot. Heck, she opens the cage and gives her some love when we're in the room. HOWEVER, this is something that you only do when A) the snake is awake and knows you're there, B) Food is not in the room, C) you do not smell like food.

Retics are such a rewarding species. I'm undergoing a collection revamp right now, and my directive is to focus my collection entirely of retics, but even then just a select few. I'll update everyone in another thread that wants to know as things unfold.

Anything else, please feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll get with you as I can. Not on the forums as much these days!

Thanks so much for all the input! I'll subscribe to your channel the moment I get home (I'm at work now, but as soon as I get home).
I'll message you too on a couple topics after I do a bit of research if that's okay
You all are awesome

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[iPanda]

I sense sarcasm in the use of the word "Lovely" haha

Me sarcastic? Never! ;P