Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 623

0 members and 623 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,909
Threads: 249,113
Posts: 2,572,179
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, KoreyBuchanan
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27
  1. #11
    Registered User Kensa's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-14-2013
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    191
    Thanks
    29
    Thanked 84 Times in 67 Posts
    Images: 5

    Re: Proper Striking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Garnet View Post
    I'm glad I feed F/T because my boy isn't all that accurate.
    I'm not sure what your thawing/heating practices are, but it may be because the entire prey item is the same temp. I usually run my thawed feeder's head area under warm water for 10-15 seconds right before offering. Since I started this, my spotnose girl has had no issues figuring out where to strike.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Kensa For This Useful Post:

    NYHC4LIFE8899 (12-08-2013)

  3. #12
    Banned
    Join Date
    08-25-2013
    Posts
    1,254
    Thanks
    228
    Thanked 174 Times in 162 Posts

    Re: Proper Striking.

    Quote Originally Posted by jessica87 View Post
    Lately my snakes been striking good ''Finally'' I say that because my normal has a weird butt fetish lol for the first 3 weeks of feeding's, when I would dance the f/t she flick your tongue and would always go for the butt even when the tongs were holding that area, weird! even has ate a rat pup butt first. It's maybe cause she is small and still learning.

    The photo look's like a winning strike!
    Jessica,I have to agree with you,my ghost in the pic at first struck behind first and ate behind first a few times,but the more he kept getting fed,he adventually went for face first,from striking to eating..my black pastel,just recently started stroking face first for a while wasn't it all and was striking mid body to the butt also,he'd constrict and all I'd see was the poor preys face,I felt so bad.

    to me it sounds like you have an S&M snake on your hands,lol

  4. #13
    Registered User Garnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-09-2013
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Posts
    143
    Thanks
    133
    Thanked 45 Times in 31 Posts

    Re: Proper Striking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kensa View Post
    I'm not sure what your thawing/heating practices are, but it may be because the entire prey item is the same temp. I usually run my thawed feeder's head area under warm water for 10-15 seconds right before offering. Since I started this, my spotnose girl has had no issues figuring out where to strike.
    Interesting! I warm the prey to 98 - 100 degrees using warm water. The entire prey item is pretty much the same temp. I need to think about how to fix this.

  5. #14
    Registered User Naom9Anne's Avatar
    Join Date
    10-18-2013
    Location
    England
    Posts
    670
    Thanks
    55
    Thanked 220 Times in 161 Posts
    Images: 4
    I normally heat the head more with either boiling water or a hairdryer, I've also been told using a bulb is a really good way to get the head hot too

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Naom9Anne For This Useful Post:

    Garnet (12-08-2013)

  7. #15
    Banned
    Join Date
    08-25-2013
    Posts
    1,254
    Thanks
    228
    Thanked 174 Times in 162 Posts

    Re: Proper Striking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Garnet View Post
    Interesting! I warm the prey to 98 - 100 degrees using warm water. The entire prey item is pretty much the same temp. I need to think about how to fix this.
    Jut hold his head more towards the heat source,that's it.. When I fed FT I would put it under a heat bulb,about 6 inches away from the entire body for a few mins,then put the head right next to the bulb for a good 30 seconds to a minute...always worked out well for me.i never used a hair dryer or water. I would let the FT defrost at room temp,then warm with a heat lamp
    Last edited by NYHC4LIFE8899; 12-08-2013 at 05:29 PM.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to NYHC4LIFE8899 For This Useful Post:

    Garnet (12-08-2013)

  9. #16
    Registered User jessica87's Avatar
    Join Date
    05-08-2012
    Location
    Southern NJ
    Posts
    177
    Thanks
    25
    Thanked 26 Times in 19 Posts
    Images: 6
    I always take the food out and put in a little baggie in the fridge a day before feeding. Day of feeding I leave hot water in a cup for about 40mins changing the water twice the rat will reaches about 101. Sometimes while moving the f/t to the feeding area I lose about 5 degrees. I will warm it up on the red light bulb, which will do the trick.
    Last edited by jessica87; 12-08-2013 at 05:48 PM.
    Ball Pythons
    Normal (Alana)
    Mojave (Achilles)
    Spotnose (Apollo)
    Albino (Banana)

    Cats
    Sam
    Baby
    Little Kitty
    Cotton
    Hunter
    Lightning

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to jessica87 For This Useful Post:

    NYHC4LIFE8899 (12-08-2013)

  11. #17
    Registered User jessica87's Avatar
    Join Date
    05-08-2012
    Location
    Southern NJ
    Posts
    177
    Thanks
    25
    Thanked 26 Times in 19 Posts
    Images: 6
    I would let the FT defrost at room temp
    Never try that.....Like pre scenting?
    Ball Pythons
    Normal (Alana)
    Mojave (Achilles)
    Spotnose (Apollo)
    Albino (Banana)

    Cats
    Sam
    Baby
    Little Kitty
    Cotton
    Hunter
    Lightning

  12. #18
    Registered User Garnet's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-09-2013
    Location
    Lansing, MI
    Posts
    143
    Thanks
    133
    Thanked 45 Times in 31 Posts
    We just fed him. This time, while I was warming the prey, I poured the hot water directly on the head of the rat. When I measured the prey temps right before feeding, the head was 3 degrees warmer than the rest of the body. Result? Perfect strike first time.

    Thanks for the advice, all.
    Last edited by Garnet; 12-08-2013 at 06:38 PM.

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Garnet For This Useful Post:

    Crazymonkee (12-09-2013)

  14. #19
    Banned
    Join Date
    08-25-2013
    Posts
    1,254
    Thanks
    228
    Thanked 174 Times in 162 Posts

    Re: Proper Striking.

    Quote Originally Posted by jessica87 View Post
    Never try that.....Like pre scenting?
    No..the prey FT I was feeding him was small and medium mice. When I was feeding FT,now I only feed live...They would defrost completely with in 30 mins....now if I take it out the night before then I leave it sealed up,very sealed up and let it defrost in my fridge..

    plus I was told by someone that defrosting them in water depletes nutrients,true or not, I never took the chance..I want my snakes getting every bit of calcium and protein and fat possible. That's the reason I Let defrost at room temp
    Last edited by NYHC4LIFE8899; 12-08-2013 at 07:16 PM.

  15. #20
    Registered User jessica87's Avatar
    Join Date
    05-08-2012
    Location
    Southern NJ
    Posts
    177
    Thanks
    25
    Thanked 26 Times in 19 Posts
    Images: 6
    I got you..

    I don't understand but maybe it's true (don't know) how a f/t will lose it's nutrients from water all those nutrients are in the body.
    Ball Pythons
    Normal (Alana)
    Mojave (Achilles)
    Spotnose (Apollo)
    Albino (Banana)

    Cats
    Sam
    Baby
    Little Kitty
    Cotton
    Hunter
    Lightning

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1