first week as a new owner, can use some input

[Eric Alan]

I'm a bit confused. Thermostats don't measure the temps, they regulate them. Also, how is your probe secured? If its just sitting on top of the substrate, your snake could easily move it, which would be the same result as having your UTH unregulated.

We're walking before we're running. See my post right below yours.

[beandog]

5) If you wanted to get rid of the heat lamp, you could instead add a second UTH and thermostat to the other side on the bottom. Heat lamps can be a hindrance to proper humidity levels and your life in the future will likely be easier without one. If you decide to do this, regulate one UTH to 80 and the other to 90 (or 82 and 92 to account for the difference between the very bottom of the tank and the surface of the substrate the snake is actually sitting on).

This is where I'm also confused ... sorry ...

If I got rid of the heat lamp, and setup another UTH to a lower degree on the right side, then how do you get the ambient temperature up? I thought you said that they're not designed to heat the air like that (or am I not understanding that right either).

Sorry for the confusion, just wanna make sure I do this right *and* understand why it works how it does.

[MootWorm]

I'll wait til Eric posts something...

[Eric Alan]

This is where I'm also confused ... sorry ...

If I got rid of the heat lamp, and setup another UTH to a lower degree on the right side, then how do you get the ambient temperature up? I thought you said that they're not designed to heat the air like that (or am I not understanding that right either).

Sorry for the confusion, just wanna make sure I do this right *and* understand why it works how it does.

My logic here was that the snake will be spending 99% of its time on the floor of the aquarium so you want to make sure temperatures are correct there. Sorry I wan't clear with this.

When talking about temperature control and reptiles, you're mostly only concerned with where the reptile spends the majority of its time. For ball pythons, that means on the floor. If it's green tree pythons, then it's on one side of the aerial perch or the other. Make more sense?

[MootWorm]

Beandog, what are your average room temps? Unless its in the 60s, you shouldn't have any issues maintaining 80 degree ambient tank temps. If you so have issues, you can cover the majority of the tank with a towel, foil, anything to hold in heat. If its still too cool. You can get rid of the tank liner and put a shallow layer of bedding down, that should help immensely.

Alternatively, you could always keep the overhead lamp, but that will most likely result in humidity issues. This, too, can easily be fixed by switching to a better substrate that holds humidity (coco fiber/Eco earth, mulch) or providing humid hides filled with moss during shed(which is what I like to do).

[beandog]

My logic here was that the snake will be spending 99% of its time on the floor of the aquarium so you want to make sure temperatures are correct there. Sorry I wan't clear with this.

When talking about temperature control and reptiles, you're mostly only concerned with where the reptile spends the majority of its time. For ball pythons, that means on the floor. If it's green tree pythons, then it's on one side of the aerial perch or the other. Make more sense?

Yah, that does, thanks

So, here's the todo:

• Remove the UTH from the side, put it on the bottom
• Have the thermostat sensor sit between the UTH and the glass (so it doesn't get peed on)
• Have that one set to 90 degrees
• Duplicate the same setup on the right side of the tank, but set to 80 degrees (or 92/82 because of the substrate, liner and glass that could cause heat loss before it reaches his belly)
• Remove the heat lamp if the temperature is okay
• Relax

Anything I missed?

[MootWorm]

Yah, that does, thanks

So, here's the todo:

• Remove the UTH from the side, put it on the bottom
• Have the thermostat sensor sit between the UTH and the glass (so it doesn't get peed on)
• Have that one set to 90 degrees
• Duplicate the same setup on the right side of the tank, but set to 80 degrees (or 92/82 because of the substrate, liner and glass that could cause heat loss before it reaches his belly)
• Remove the heat lamp if the temperature is okay
• Relax

Anything I missed?

Sounds like a plan. Also, you might have to play around with what your Tstat is set to. Mines set to 98, which gives me a 91 reading on the substrate.


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[beandog]

Beandog, what are your average room temps? Unless its in the 60s, you shouldn't have any issues maintaining 80 degree ambient tank temps.

It varies, because I never keep my apartment temperature the same either ... sometimes I like the AC on, sometimes I like the windows all open, so it can be between about 72 to 85 degrees.

If you so have issues, you can cover the majority of the tank with a towel, foil, anything to hold in heat. If its still too cool. You can get rid of the tank liner and put a shallow layer of bedding down, that should help immensely.

Okay, that's really good to know. I wanted to put *something* on top anyway just so he isn't exposed to the large open area, and instead he can feel even more contained. I don't feel comfortable putting something on there now, because of the heat lamp. But obviously if that's gone, I have a lot more options.

Alternatively, you could always keep the overhead lamp, but that will most likely result in humidity issues. This, too, can easily be fixed by switching to a better substrate that holds humidity (coco fiber/Eco earth, mulch) or providing humid hides filled with moss during shed(which is what I like to do).

Okay, cool, I like both of those ideas for maintaining humidity. Thanks!

[beandog]

Sounds like a plan. Also, you might have to play around with what your Tstat is set to. Mines set to 98, which gives me a 91 reading on the substrate.

Oh okay, that helps explain it, too.

Just how hot can those UTHs get?

[Eric Alan]

Yah, that does, thanks

So, here's the todo:

• Remove the UTH from the side, put it on the bottom
• Have the thermostat sensor sit between the UTH and the glass (so it doesn't get peed on)
• Have that one set to 90 degrees
• Duplicate the same setup on the right side of the tank, but set to 80 degrees (or 92/82 because of the substrate, liner and glass that could cause heat loss before it reaches his belly)
• Remove the heat lamp if the temperature is okay
• Relax

Anything I missed?

I'd suggest moving your last step to your first step, but other than that - PERFECT!

MootWorm already eluded to it, but you may be able to do without the second UTH or the overhead lamp depending on the temperature of the room that your tank is in. Once you have your primary UTH moved and the temperature steady on the warm side, measure the temp on both the floor on that side and the floor on the other side. If it's 76-80 on the cool side, then you don't have to spend the extra money on a second heating setup.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh okay, that helps explain it, too.

Just how hot can those UTHs get?

Well over 100 degrees left unattended.