New to site and BP.. have some questions..

[BHReptiles]

I also say don't get another until you do a ton more research. Buy a few books (I myself have several books on husbandry for ball pythons, corn snakes, and even crested geckos) and read them. Then, take some time fine tuning your set up and get it perfect for your ball python. Once it's perfect and stays perfect, do a little more research! Even I am constantly doing more research and learning knew things. Also, you need to think about the cost involved in getting another ball python. That's twice the food bills, twice the vet costs, twice everything! If you can't afford to upgrade the tank for the snake you have, I can bet you can't afford to care for two ball pythons. Just take things slow and enjoy the one you have. Save up some money and then consider getting another cage for your new ball python.

Ball pythons should not be housed together. While cannibalism is possible, what will more than likely happen is that you will stress out both ball pythons. You could have them both off feed, accidental clutches (or clutches if your female isn't well enough to breed which can be a strain on her body), and you have no way of knowing which ball python left what in the cage. if someone poops, who pooped? If someone regurgitated, who did? If one is sick, they will probably both be sick. Now, cohabbing IS possible but it will take a lot more knowledge and expertise in order to do so correctly. I would not suggest it for beginners. I consider myself a novice and even I would not cohab.

In addition, your new addition will need to be quarantined. That means you need to keep that new addition as possible for a minimum of 3 months (the longer, the better). That way you can look for any signs of illness and fix it before it spreads to your new addition.

As for your heating issues, Firestorm has provided some great links. I would definitely get at least a hydrofarm thermostat (this will help to keep your UTH at a proper temp) and get some acuright thermometers from Walmart (you would need 2 - one for the hot side, one for the cold). That will cost you about $50 or so but it will be one of the best investments you can make for your animals!

I second the question about what substrate you are using and also want to know how thick it is? If your substrate is more than about an inch thick, then your UTH is useless. You need to trim down your substrate so the heat from the UTH can rise to the surface to create your hotspot.

[twinklestar]

What kind of substrate are you using? Have her sheds been complete? Does she have proper bowel movements?

Her sheds are complete and everything goes in and comes out properly.. I actually just fed her today with the proper sized rat and for the first time in the last couple months she seems completely content As soon as I get paid I will be getting thermometers and anything else I can that I need... and stupid question what is substrate? As for getting another BP that wont happen for at least a year if not 2.. I don't want to rush into it and have to sell them cause I couldn't take care of them.. She is like one of my children ( I have 3) and I want to make sure she has a long healthy life..

So some more questions.. What is the best way to control and monitor the humidity? Also as far as the lighting I have the top lamps and the UTH on opposite sides of the tank, I have a pic of it in my profile, is there anything else I need to do?

[timely.grace]

You should definitely know the term substrate if you've done enough research. Substrate is what you have covering the bottom of her tank. Wood chips? Shavings? Newspaper? Paper towel? And how thick/how many layers?

You definitely should NOT wait until you get paid to buy a thermometer/thermostat. You should have had it set up in her enclosure before even purchasing her. Heat mats are well known for overheating WAY too much & burning snake bellies. Look up pictures, it's awful & quite costly if they get an infection or secondary issue because of it.

[Anya]

You definitely should NOT wait until you get paid to buy a thermometer/thermostat. You should have had it set up in her enclosure before even purchasing her. Heat mats are well known for overheating WAY too much & burning snake bellies. Look up pictures, it's awful & quite costly if they get an infection or secondary issue because of it.

Easy to say, but I'm gonna defend the OP here. She was ignorant of a few of the necessities to snake keeping, as I'm sure many of us were at first. But seriously, if you don't have the money RIGHT NOW you don't have the money. Same reason I have to wait till I get paid to get my new beardie her UVB. I have to limp along with what I have in the meantime.

OP, I recommend putting something over the heating pad temporarily, while you can't get a thermostat. A large, flat rock or a piece of wood, or even a few pieces of thick cardboard. That is NOT a permanent fix, and I don't recommend it for more than a few days, but it is something. Vet bills for a burnt snake are much higher than the cost of a thermostat, but I understand not being able to do it right this minute. Just do what you can.

[BHReptiles]

Substrate is what covers the tank floor. Most people use aspen bedding (do not use pine or cedar), cypress bedding, newspaper, paper towel, repticarpet, or Eco earth. Whatever you use, it shouldn't be more than an inch thick.

unplug your heat mat until you can buy a thermostat. However, you really need a lamp dimmer ($10 at Home Depot) and a thermometer to measure the hot spot ($10 at Walmart). The dimmer can control the power to the lamp and thus helping to raise the temp or lower it.

once you get paid, invest in a second thermometer, a thermostat, and a ball python care book (Petsmart has one for $8 I think). You should also read the care sheet on this forum.it will help you a lot!

[Anya]

unplug your heat mat until you can buy a thermostat.

Or that.

Make sure the room he stays in is kept as warm as possible (76-80) until you can get it up and running.

[twinklestar]

Thank you for all your input I kinda figured substrate was the bedding in the bottom but I wanted to make sure.. Right now I have wood chips in the bottom, about an inch thick.. She was given to me by one of my husbands co-workers (she bought it for her son and he stopped taking care of her) and everything I have came with the "starter" tank that was purchased with her.. I need to do A LOT more reading on BP and I know that, but I figured I would ask experienced owners their opinion and see what works for you and what doesn't...Like are wood chips the best type of substrate?

[Anya]

Thank you for all your input I kinda figured substrate was the bedding in the bottom but I wanted to make sure.. Right now I have wood chips in the bottom, about an inch thick.. She was given to me by one of my husbands co-workers (she bought it for her son and he stopped taking care of her) and everything I have came with the "starter" tank that was purchased with her.. I need to do A LOT more reading on BP and I know that, but I figured I would ask experienced owners their opinion and see what works for you and what doesn't...Like are wood chips the best type of substrate?

Depends on the woodchips. Ceder? no no. But Aspen is a perfectly good bedding, and many on here also agree than kiln dried pine is suitable as well. If you aren't sure what you've got, I recommend emptying the tank and using paper towels. They aren't pretty, but they're pretty much the best substrate for ball pythons, imo. And cheap! And easy to clean.

[Annarose15]

Here are a couple of links to get you going:

Caresheet

And anything labeled as a "Sticky Thread" in the BP Husbandry section.

[BHReptiles]

Here are a couple of links to get you going:

Caresheet

And anything labeled as a "Sticky Thread" in the BP Husbandry section.

That's the care sheet I was talking about.

wood chips are fine as long as it's not pine (I don't like any kind of pine) or cedar. Aspen or cypress chips are perfectly fine and well used. Cypress chips will help with humidity (if you haven't had this problem yet, I bet you will!).