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  1. #6
    BPnet Lifer snakesRkewl's Avatar
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    The egg crate needs to sit up on top of the substrate, you do not want any substrate touching the eggs

    Personal opinion ...Those tubs are great for holding nuts and bolts and for hatchling racks but are horrible for holding in humidity without seal a meal, which is why I use locking lid tubs(I hate seal-a-meal).

    As far as the substrate under the egg crate it should be sloppy wet, I add perlite and then water until it touches the bottom of the egg crate and that's it.

    My tubs are sealed well enough to need a few tiny holes for ventilation and will hold water from start to finish without having to mess with the tubs. On rare occasion I've added a little water to top them off towards the end of the incubation period, but not much.

    If you use those cheap tubs keep an eye on the water level and keep the substrate very wet.
    I would also add a lot more water bottles, they help tremendously with stability.

    Looks good to me. Honestly I think we all tend to over think some of this stuff. They hatch in the wild under much worse conditions.
    They hatch in holes under ground that are probably as stable if not more stable than most peoples incubators

    I forget which breeding guide but I like how they put it.

    It was something to the effect of: "People tend to spend way too much time and energy fretting over the perfection of the incubation process. In reality, they will hatch anywhere but the glove box of your car."
    When you have 20k in eggs in your incubator you tend to want it to work perfect
    Jerry Robertson

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to snakesRkewl For This Useful Post:

    PitOnTheProwl (01-11-2013),satomi325 (01-11-2013),Simple Man (01-11-2013)

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