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  1. #11
    BPnet Lifer Daybreaker's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tes95 View Post
    Ambient? The room temperature is always 70F-72F. The infrared spans nearly the entire tank in the reach of it's light. I don't have a second thermometer, I had to exchange it just to pay for the Hygrotherm. I am not very well off financially. There is two hides, one for hot, one for cold.
    70-72 ambient temps in the cage may be why she doesn't want to eat: those are way too cold and could lead to an RI. I keep my ambient temps/cold side at ~79-80 and hot side hot spot at ~89-92.

    Hides should be identical so she doesn't favor one over the other.

    How often have you been offering food?
    ~Angelica~
    See my collection HERE



    4.15 Ball Pythons
    1.1 Angolan Pythons
    2.2 Cali Kings_______________________0.1 SSTP Black Blood
    1.1 T+ Argentine BCOs______________1.0 Snow Bull
    1.3 Colombian morph BCIs___________0.1 Coastal Carpet
    0.1 Hog Island BCI__________________0.1 Platinum Retic
    0.1 Het Anery BCL __________________0.1 Lavender Albino Citron Retic
    0.2 Central American morph BCIs_____1.0 Blonde/Caramel Retic
    0.1 Pokigron Suriname BCC__________0.1 Goldenchild Retic
    0.0.1 Corn


  2. #12
    Registered User Tes95's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Quote Originally Posted by brobertson View Post
    I know that you Think your snake is secure, but it is pretty clear that she isn't. if she has spot on temps and isn't eating, it has to be an issue of stress or lack of security. That tank is probably why she isn't eating. What I would do to make her feel more secure is crumple up a bunch of newspaper and throw it in the tank. It may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it will help her feel safer. Also, if you are handling at all, stop until she eats at least a few meals. Lastly, i would "black out" or cover 3 sides of the tank, so that she cannot see out. These tricks have worked very well for me when I have had small BPs in big tanks.

    Edit: Daybreaker beat me to it
    That actually makes sense to black out the sides. I have a terrarium forest background at the back, she always looks out the clear sides. Just put opaque towels over the two "side" (left and right) sides. I can attempt cluttering and more plants. Issue is what to put in there that doesn't look hideous. I'm sure my sister has some old toy flora, and we probably have some fake plants, are these okay?

  3. #13
    BPnet Lifer rlditmars's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tes95 View Post
    I've heard this time and again. And so many people give mixed information, it's a tornado of "Don't listen to them, listen to me! THIS works! NO! This WAY!", etc. My snake has learned how to burrow. She has a reptile bonsai which she hides in. She likes to hide in the plants, in the tight corners of the humidity dishes that are in there, in her little cave, she has hides. If that was the issue, she'd be frantic. She's relaxed.
    Sounds like you got it all figured out so good luck with that.

  4. #14
    Registered User Tes95's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Enough to where in a one month period I wasted 4 fuzzies. 5 yesterday. I have tried everything....
    The probe isn't even directly under the light, it's at least half a foot away from the right side of the tank, and about 3 inches away from the light. And it's 91-93 degrees there. It stand to reason the bare minimum in that tank on cold side is about 77F. Cold side actually gives off a slight heat signature. If you guys want me to, I can attach a small 10 Gallon UTH I have to the cold side. I can use a surge protector for the hygrotherm to control that too.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by rlditmars View Post
    Sounds like you got it all figured out so good luck with that.
    I meant no disrespect, I just truly can't see that as the issue because when I had it even MORE cluttered, I still had the same problem.

  5. #15
    Registered User Tes95's Avatar
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    She hasn't moved in 17 hours from her bonsai perch, but she's moving a little now!

    She started moving as soon as I blacked out the two sides. I don't have a second DIGITAL Thermohygrometer, just the Hygrotherm (which has one built in). However. I have an analog one.

  6. #16
    BPnet Lifer Daybreaker's Avatar
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    1) Put her in something smaller, a 6-15qt tub or a 10 gallon tank
    2) Clutter it up with fake plants, water bowl, and two small tight hides. Black out three sides if you go with the 10 gallon.
    3) Bump those ambient temps up. 77 is still a bit too cool IMO
    4) Leave her alone with no handling unless to spot clean and have her be in a low traffic area
    5) After about a week of having her settle into her new setup, offer every 7 days with a LIVE feeder. If you get a live mouse fuzzy/rat fuzzy you can even leave it in with her overnight since it can't harm her

    Those are my suggestions as to what I would do.
    Last edited by Daybreaker; 12-31-2012 at 03:56 PM.
    ~Angelica~
    See my collection HERE



    4.15 Ball Pythons
    1.1 Angolan Pythons
    2.2 Cali Kings_______________________0.1 SSTP Black Blood
    1.1 T+ Argentine BCOs______________1.0 Snow Bull
    1.3 Colombian morph BCIs___________0.1 Coastal Carpet
    0.1 Hog Island BCI__________________0.1 Platinum Retic
    0.1 Het Anery BCL __________________0.1 Lavender Albino Citron Retic
    0.2 Central American morph BCIs_____1.0 Blonde/Caramel Retic
    0.1 Pokigron Suriname BCC__________0.1 Goldenchild Retic
    0.0.1 Corn


  7. #17
    Registered User Tes95's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Daybreaker View Post
    70-72 ambient temps in the cage may be why she doesn't want to eat: those are way too cold and could lead to an RI. I keep my ambient temps/cold side at ~79-80 and hot side hot spot at ~89-92.

    Hides should be identical so she doesn't favor one over the other.

    How often have you been offering food?
    I mean, it stands to reason that if the right side of the tank (hot side) is always 90F-93F, and the infrared light is ranging far enough as to hit the cold side, it would be okay for her. I'm looking at it right now, the light has actually shone off her scales, it permeates most of the cold side.


  8. #18
    Registered User Tes95's Avatar
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    Plus, I can't determine her age.

    Sometimes I think she's a baby. Fully stretched out, she's larger than a 10 Gallon, and over 2/3rds of her 40 Gallon. She's 1 foot or over, but 2 feet MAX. I got her on November 23rd of this year. I honestly have no idea her age.

  9. #19
    Registered User JeRMz's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Black construction paper would look nice on those two sides. I bought the Flukers Repti-vines "Pothos" for my 20 gal. long. The vine package says 6 feet, but is actually 8 feet long! Plenty to wrap around the inside of the enclosure. $10. Looks awesome! Gotta fill the tank a little bit.
    1.0 Cat "Squirrel"
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  10. #20
    BPnet Lifer rlditmars's Avatar
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    Re: Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tes95 View Post
    Enough to where in a one month period I wasted 4 fuzzies. 5 yesterday. I have tried everything....
    The probe isn't even directly under the light, it's at least half a foot away from the right side of the tank, and about 3 inches away from the light. And it's 91-93 degrees there. It stand to reason the bare minimum in that tank on cold side is about 77F. Cold side actually gives off a slight heat signature. If you guys want me to, I can attach a small 10 Gallon UTH I have to the cold side. I can use a surge protector for the hygrotherm to control that too.

    - - - Updated - - -



    I meant no disrespect, I just truly can't see that as the issue because when I had it even MORE cluttered, I still had the same problem.
    I realize that you are probably frustrated. However, if what you have been doing hasn't worked, then continuing down that road is going to be a exercise in futility. Several have said they believe it is the size of the enclosure. I know you have a lot of money and effort into your setup, but try this and it should only cost you about $5 and a week or two of your time. Get a small 10 to 15 qt plastic tub with a lid. Put some holes in the sides for air transfer. Put the tub in your tank so you can still utilize your hot spot and ambient without any more cost. Make up the inside of the tub with substrate from the big tank, hides, and a small water dish. Give her a a solid week to settle without any handling unless she needs the tub cleaned. I assume you have been trying to feed her what the person you bought her from, was already feeding her. After a week try feeding her. If using FT then give her an hour to herself, but if she doesn't eat it take it out and wait another week. If you didn't know, you can refreeze a prey item once providing it hasn't sat out too long. That way you won't have to waste as much food.

    It won't be as pretty as what you have, but if it works, then you know that the size of the enclosure is the issue and you can change things as your money situation makes it affordable. Remember, you can find alot of used items on Craigslist really cheap, like small tanks with a heat source already attached because someone got rid of their snake, lizard, reptile, whatever.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to rlditmars For This Useful Post:

    Kaorte (12-31-2012)

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