Deep red and heat travel about the same but that is splitting hairs. No lights provide only ambients you still need an UTH. My room is cool by that I mean below what is thought to be normal or 68ºF 20ºC I have greatly variable room temps winter summer and during the day and night. The average winter is 65 maybe and it does drop to 60 sometimes. I get cool. Heating the room is simply not an option they only way to really have control (for me) is to use the two oil heaters I own set one to max (1200w) run it full on all the time and use the 2400w to hold 80º it runs 60% most of the time. The cost is crazy.

I use two RHPs (40w and 80w) the 40w is in a 24x24x12 PVCx enclosure originally my test enclosure (quarantine) it is currently occupied. (no experimenting with it currently) It is running a RHP as a hot spot a UTH as a cool surface (and unused warm surface UTH as well) and the lights. With the lights off the ambient are temps drop to 2-4ºF over the room temps (this morning 67ºF) This is the normal for the RHP I have never had more than 4ºF over the ambient air temps. I am using paper substrate and light plastic bowls there is nothing to generate thermal mass and conduct to the enclosure. I believe you might get 5-6º perhaps but clearly that is far to little in my case. The lights add enough that even with out the RHP it will hold 75º on the coolest night I have that is JUST lights (experiments on empty of 9 months to find the most cost effective efficient system.)

I freely admit RHP generate some ambients and for that matter UTH do as well just not near enough on their own. The only way is to add heavy objects to the enclosure that NOBODY speaks of when they suggest RHPs can control ambients air temps. Most try to tell people they heat air directly which if it were true would make them very very very dangerous. Mine runs a surface temp of 100-115º all the time if that were heating air too the enclosure would be far to high ambient temps with cold surface temps. It is difficult when people whom have nice toasty spaces say how to manage ambient temps when they have little experience with such an issue. I agree RHP are more efficient heaters but the available power is not needed it is used at or below 20% power all the time the cost savings is maybe a few bucks a year at best it is hard to pay for given start up costs unless you need the full power (like my arboreal set up I use much more power to generate a vertical gradient) It is like having a 22000 CFM fan in a living room that is only 100 sq feet it can never be run beyond the lowest setting. Having the ability to heat an enclosure to 150º is needed why? I believe if the tstat fails and everything goes haywire (power surge for example take out t-stat and failsafe) the final line of defence is the heater not producing excessively high temps. The majority of my enclosures simply can never get hotter than 100ºF certainly too hot but not enough to kill the animals they hold. I am slowly converting all to low wattage heaters this will include the Q enclosure with the RHP.

I have been a bit short lately currently negotiating (union) and being told I am lying every day and placing documents on the table supporting what was said then being told I didn't understand what the lawyer said and inferred I must be dumb then playing back the recorded statement and watching the back peddling again everyday has made me temperamental. I do apologize for being short tempered.