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  1. #11
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    I personally like less cables easier to manage, and I am in Canada (business owner) so it is WAY cheaper.

  2. #12
    Registered User Gene Collins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitedemon View Post
    I personally like less cables easier to manage, and I am in Canada (business owner) so it is WAY cheaper.
    Could you elaborate? How do you have yours done?

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  3. #13
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    It also seems to me that with that much open space around the tubs you won't get good heat retention in your rack. Unless you keep you snake room at a stable temp all year long.

  4. #14
    Registered User Gene Collins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKA Reptiles View Post
    It also seems to me that with that much open space around the tubs you won't get good heat retention in your rack. Unless you keep you snake room at a stable temp all year long.
    That's been the case with the ambient temps. Especially with winter approaching. I can't see that affecting my hot spot much though. Especially when one shelf reads 95 and the other 87 while both on the same flexwatt. My temp readings come from the probe being directly over the heat tape.

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  5. #15
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Yes but it won't apply to the US or at least i don't think it does. In Canada if you are a registered business the electrical wiring in the place of business MUST be certified by an electrician. The penalty is HUGE if something goes wrong (if there were a fire and someone died regardless if the flexwatt was at fault you could be charged with criminal negligence causing death which is 25 to life in prison.) It is a criminal offence to fail to do so. This makes flexwatt for business very costly as an electrician is needed to make the connections. I paid a flat fee for each connection so the more the more the fee would be.

    The extra cables means more connections and more places to have problems, thus is easier to manage. KISS method simple sometimes is easier. There are pros and cons to having individual layers separate cleaning would be far simpler, if I could kill the power to one tub and not the whole thing.

  6. #16
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    I understand your reasoning because that's how I felt at first too. But with solid walls the heat gets trapped and doesn't have room to dissipate into the air. When you set your t stat to 90 and place the probe on the heat tape it doesn't mean that the tube will be 90. There's always a loss of heat.

  7. #17
    Registered User Gene Collins's Avatar
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    Yea that makes sense. I have some melamine shelves left over after I shortened that rack. i'll see about closing off that back section. You don't think it'd hurt air circulation?

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  8. #18
    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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    As long as you have a proper gap between the top of the tub and the bottom of the shelf above each tub you should be fine as far as air circulation. I gap my tubs about 1/8" to provide decent air flow.

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    BPnet Veteran AKA Reptiles's Avatar
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  10. #20
    Registered User Gene Collins's Avatar
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    Re: Flex watt issues

    Quote Originally Posted by AKA Reptiles View Post
    As long as you have a proper gap between the top of the tub and the bottom of the shelf above each tub you should be fine as far as air circulation. I gap my tubs about 1/8" to provide decent air flow.
    I do have about the same size gap but I guess my concern is that if I block off the back and part of the sides towards the back, that it will mess with airflow.
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