Thymol is in the same family as phenols (5-Methyl-2-(1-methylethylphenol). This family is natural occurring disinfectants and pesticides. It is the same family of chemicals found in wood like cedars and a lot of tropical hardwoods and strong smelling softwoods (pine). Phenols are know toxins for all reptiles (purified forms are just plain very toxic.) Thymol just because it is from thyme oil does not mean the refined form is not toxic. How much it takes to have impact on health is impossible to say as there have been no testing done on reptiles. The thing with all chemicals it is the route of exposure the frequency of the exposure and the concentration that matter.
I would not suggest using any chemical that is in any way related to phenols around reptiles. listerine and the wipes both have the same chem thymol in them, it is common to a number of generic low level disinfectants. The other common one that is suspect is Trilosan that is also a phenol base chem and is very common in anti bacterial soaps.
Listerine undiluted might be effective but diluted the rate of effective use is likely limited. Disinfectants are funny things there is no easy way to know if they work (yes swab tests can be done but at 60-200$ a sample hardly cost effective) The only way to be sure you are actually doing what you think you are doing is to use a disinfectant as the instructions say to use it .And follow all of the guidelines of its use to the letter. Not following the instructions means you have no idea if what you are doing is disinfecting.
Depends on what you are trying to do and which F10 product you have. the F10sc typically is 1:500 for general use 1:250 for high level it kills most bacteria and fungi and virus. 1:125 this kills enclosed virus like Parvovirus. I am not sure what IBD is so I use 1:125 for all quarantine conditions. I use 1:250 for everything else.
The F10 scxd is the same but the others are at different rates.
F10 requires a 10 min contact time. The big difference is the stability of it diluted is 6 months compared to one week to one month for Chlorahexidine.
Depends on what you are trying to do and which F10 product you have. the F10sc typically is 1:500 for general use 1:250 for high level it kills most bacteria and fungi and virus. 1:125 this kills enclosed virus like Parvovirus. I am not sure what IBD is so I use 1:125 for all quarantine conditions. I use 1:250 for everything else.
The F10 scxd is the same but the others are at different rates.
F10 requires a 10 min contact time. The big difference is the stability of it diluted is 6 months compared to one week to one month for Chlorahexidine.
F10SC it is.
I have a rack that was used for my 2011/12 breeding season that have been sold and I'm getting new girls soon. So I figured I'd give it a solid cleaning - went with 8ml:1000ml
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Originally Posted by heathers*bps
