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  1. #11
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    Re: BP Handling and feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by Daybreaker View Post
    Refreezing can cause the feeder to fall apart due to freezing, thawing, heating, refreezing etc. as the skin becomes weak - I just toss them and start with a "fresh" feeder next time. If the feeder is left overnight then of course toss it, be kinda gross to refreeze a feeder that's started decaying for several hours.

    Thank you!

  2. #12
    BPnet Lifer Kaorte's Avatar
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    I think your 20g setup looks pretty good! If the snake doesn't eat for you consistently though, I would move to a 10g. A temperature gradient basically means that there are multiple temps for the animal to choose from. Most people try to keep the ambient temperature of the air around 75-80* over the whole enclosure. Providing a "hot spot" of 90* is fine, they don't need the air to be 90* as long as they have that spot.

    ~Steffe

  3. #13
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    Re: BP Handling and feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaorte View Post
    I think your 20g setup looks pretty good! If the snake doesn't eat for you consistently though, I would move to a 10g. A temperature gradient basically means that there are multiple temps for the animal to choose from. Most people try to keep the ambient temperature of the air around 75-80* over the whole enclosure. Providing a "hot spot" of 90* is fine, they don't need the air to be 90* as long as they have that spot.


    He's still very new to the home, so I hear sometimes they will be very picky about eating. Sometimes up to a couple months?

    My ambient temp ranges from 87-81 from left to right(hot to cold) and the substrate goes from 90-80(hot to cold), is that too hot? Maybe I should get the small lamp instead of the big one so it aims the heat more central on the hot spot?
    Last edited by steez; 07-21-2012 at 01:24 AM.

  4. #14
    BPnet Veteran patientz3ro's Avatar
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    I zombie danced, left over night, left a fuzzy in her hide, warmed on the screen lid for a little more scent, walked backward three times around the tank (clockwise) and ALMOST everything I can think of. Finally, I was advised to try a live hopper. After firing her little self halfway across the tank, she looked up at me as she slurped the last of the tail. I would almost swear I heard her say, "It's about time you got it right, moron. I guess you CAN be trained after all." True story.



    Seriously though, try a live hopper.

  5. #15
    BPnet Veteran Seth702's Avatar
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    I started with a 20g tank as well. Took about 3 weeks to get him to take his first meal with me. I had to Cover 3 sides of the tank. Had 2 hides, one hot one cold. UTH was 90 with thermostat. Ambient was good. Humidity was 45-50% No matter how i offered he wouldnt strike. I discovered i had to wait till he was in a hide and offer it at the entrance to the hide before he would strike. Its the only way he will take a meal. Some just have quirks you have to figure out. I also use a hair dryer to heat my rodents. 90 ish with IR gun and he hits them no questions (well as long as hes in his hide haha) GL on your feeding. Be patient and im sure hell start eating.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by patientz3ro View Post
    I zombie danced, left over night, left a fuzzy in her hide, warmed on the screen lid for a little more scent, walked backward three times around the tank (clockwise) and ALMOST everything I can think of. Finally, I was advised to try a live hopper. After firing her little self halfway across the tank, she looked up at me as she slurped the last of the tail. I would almost swear I heard her say, "It's about time you got it right, moron. I guess you CAN be trained after all." True story.
    Quote Originally Posted by patientz3ro View Post

    Seriously though, try a live hopper.

    I'll definitely give it a shot after one more attempt at f/t next week.

    Quote Originally Posted by Seth702 View Post
    I started with a 20g tank as well. Took about 3 weeks to get him to take his first meal with me. I had to Cover 3 sides of the tank. Had 2 hides, one hot one cold. UTH was 90 with thermostat. Ambient was good. Humidity was 45-50% No matter how i offered he wouldnt strike. I discovered i had to wait till he was in a hide and offer it at the entrance to the hide before he would strike. Its the only way he will take a meal. Some just have quirks you have to figure out. I also use a hair dryer to heat my rodents. 90 ish with IR gun and he hits them no questions (well as long as hes in his hide haha) GL on your feeding. Be patient and im sure hell start eating.
    Same exact setup as mine pretty much. I'll wait til he's in a hide next week and give it a shot. If that still doesn't work, the week after I'll probably try live.

  7. #17
    BPnet Veteran patientz3ro's Avatar
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    Re: BP Handling and feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by Seth702 View Post
    I discovered i had to wait till he was in a hide and offer it at the entrance to the hide before he would strike.
    X100!

    Balls are ambush predators, like scaly little trap door spiders. This should really be the second thing tried once you know your husbandry is good.

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