Just bought my first snake, a baby ball python. I have photos and a question.

[The Serpent Merchant]

Not sure I like this guys angle...a snake is not a dog...you cannot "dominate" or train them to be submissive ...I see this as just stressing out a hatchling that should be just left alone. A hatchling knows its vulnerable, so they can choose to be more strikey.
but this is just IMO

Justin is a great guy, and definitely knows what he is doing... but that video is for a specific situation. I don't think that "dominating" is the right word to describe what he is actually doing (I know that he says it himself...) what he is doing is forcing an animal into a defensive mode vs attack mode. The BP will quickly realize that biting isn't getting anywhere and "ball" up as that is their defense mechanism. This works because it operates on the most basic of all instincts, the fight or flight response. Once an animal realizes that fighting isn't going to work it will shift into flight mode (which in ball pythons is balling up lol) This isn't something that I would suggest for a new BP that is a little nippy, but rather for an established snake that is acting aggressive.

[SrSkisAlot]

he was very nippy at first but I did this about 5 consecutive times and he never struck at me again, it totally tamed him out.

5 consecutive times? So 5 times in one sitting? All within how much time?

Also how did you get him out of the tank if he was nippy?

[mues155]

Yea I completely understand where your coming from, I was just showing him a technique that worked for me and it might or might not work for him if he wishes to try it.

Yes, and thats great I hope it does work for his bp like it did yours. Thats what were all here for! share our experiences and learn from them!

Justin is a great guy, and definitely knows what he is doing... but that video is for a specific situation. I don't think that "dominating" is the right word to describe what he is actually doing (I know that he says it himself...) what he is doing is forcing an animal into a defensive mode vs attack mode. The BP will quickly realize that biting isn't getting anywhere and "ball" up as that is their defense mechanism. This works because it operates on the most basic of all instincts, the fight or flight response. Once an animal realizes that fighting isn't going to work it will shift into flight mode (which in ball pythons is balling up lol) This isn't something that I would suggest for a new BP that is a little nippy, but rather for an established snake that is acting aggressive.

Dont get me wrong I wanst trying to say he doesnt know what hes talking about. like i said its just using the words "dominate" and "submissive" just made me raise an eyebrow.
And yes it does put them in more of a flight mode but I dont believe either one behavior is less stressful on the snake.
If a hatchling is feeling threatened then its going to be until the threat is gone. Either it will fight or flight but I still feel with either behavior the snake will still feel uncomfortable.

[mues155]

This isn't something that I would suggest for a new BP that is a little nippy, but rather for an established snake that is acting aggressive.

I agree

[DavidMundy]

5 consecutive times? So 5 times in one sitting? All within how much time?

Also how did you get him out of the tank if he was nippy?

First I gave him around 10 days/2 feedings to relax and feel less stressed out. Then every day for 5 days or so I picked him up and did it for about 2 minutes and put him back in his cage. By the 6th day he didn't show any signs of aggression toward me whatsoever. If you own a ball python you will eventually get bit, even the nicest ones will sometimes strike at you. You just need to reach in an grab him, don't show any fear, his bark is worse than his bite trust me.


Edit: It is important to give him time before trying this, or even attempting to handle him period. Snakes aren't cats or dogs, they don't like to be held or stroked. While most tolerate it, it is still stressful for them.

[SrSkisAlot]

This isn't something that I would suggest for a new BP that is a little nippy, but rather for an established snake that is acting aggressive.

Gotcha.

I'm going to wait a least a week before attempting to feed him. Or even handle him for that matter. And then see what happens...

He is currently roaming his tank and whenever I get near the tank...he seems to get scared and heads back to his hide. He goes back in, a few minutes later pokes his head out and slowly comes back out...

[SrSkisAlot]

I see that you are using aspen, but what is the other substrate in there? I would be worried about the aspen molding.

The other stuff is from petco, is comes in a brick, you add water to it in a bucket and its supposed to help hold moister. I added it the second day because everything was evaporating so quickly I was having a hard time keeping it humid.

I would also move the heat lamp directly over the hide. you need to get the hot side up to at least 88 degrees, (88-92 is the ideal range for the hot side, 78-82 degrees is ideal for the cool side. What type of bulb are you using? (white, red, blue, backlight?)

You also should really have a second hide on the cool side. this lets them thermoregulate while still being able to hide.

Ok, I'll pick up another hide soon. I'm currently using a small under tank heat pad dealy that came with the tank. I bought a dimmer for it so I could control the heat. I leave it at ~50% power. I have a thermometer probe in the substrate under the hide. I also use a 50 watt black bulb.

[The Serpent Merchant]

ok, the brick stuff is probably eco-earth or another brands equivalent. I would keep a close eye on the aspen for mold.

I would strongly suggest that you get a thermostat for the heating pad.

Here are 2 good thermostats. I would stay away from the thermostats sold in pet stores, they are overpriced and not the best.

The hydrofarm thermostat runs about $30 and will do what it needs to, but they aren't very accurate compared to better thermostats.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

The Herpstat is the best you can get, they do have a higher price tag though... herpstats run $100+, but are certainly worth it (these are what I use) they are safer, and much more accurate. they also have more capabilities than your standard thermostat.

http://spyderrobotics.com/

The dimmer will work but if the temperature in the room changes the dimmer will have to be adjusted to maintain the proper temperature.

For heating pads to be effective the substrate layer should be no thicker than 1/2"

[The Serpent Merchant]

Another thing I just noticed. Do you have tape inside the tank? It looks like the thermometer/probe is taped to the back wall. That is a ticking time bomb... Ball Pythons are masters at getting themselves stuck to tape if presented the chance. It may seem really well stuck on now, but given time it will start to peal off and your snake will find a way to get stuck to it. If that happens the BP can be seriously injured. I would run the cord either under the substrate, or up and out of the tank, then back in to keep excess out of the tank.

While I am thinking about it, do you have anything securing the lid of the tank? Bp's are very strong and can easily escape. I would either put something heavy (back when I used glass tanks I used bricks) or these: http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=3884237

[WingedWolfPsion]

Seconding a few things--absolutely get a controlling device for the heat pad. Absolutely don't use tape inside the enclosure--there's not a snake I have heard of that won't stick itself to tape, lol. It's really difficult to get the snake free of the tape, their skin is delicate.

The stuff in the brick is ground coconut fiber. Eco-earth is one brand name. It's ok for providing humidity, but don't use it everywhere in an enclosure, as ball python bedding should be dry--they are very prone to blister disease and skin infections in a damp environment. Humidity should be 60%.

As for nippy baby ball pythons--just leave them alone until they're older, and the vast majority of them will stop on their own. You can also use a tap stick to gently push the snake's head down and encourage it to ball up instead of striking. No dominating involved. Some hatchlings are so wired that you will need a mini snake hook to get through those first few months, though, lol. (We've had just a few over the years that will throw themselves all over the place trying to bite, and would not calm at all).