To build or to buy, that is the question

[Scubaf250]

So I'm going to ether build or buy an adult rack very soon and obviously safety of my family and of my snakes is going to be my first concern, with price and functionality coming in tied for second.

It seems to me from the research I've been doing that I can build a rack that's about twice the size of one I can buy for about the same price. I like the plans on the Bailey & Bailey site but I don't like that they daisy chain the heat tape together like that... So I would probably do that differently.

Any other plans floating around that would be cheaper/safer?

If I end up buying one I have been going back and forth between the boaphile, reptile basics, and vision racks.

I really like the heat cable as instead of heat tape in the vision racks. It sounds much safer than the heat tape but I don't know if I like the price tag...

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
-Steve


Send in your two cents!
Http://Yourtwocentsworth.com

[The Serpent Merchant]

I don't like heat cable,I don't think that it is any safer than flexwatt. AP makes good racks as well.

I feel that buying racks is worth it, they last longer and are built better (by computer controlled machines) They cost more upfront, but the fact that they are enclosed (except Visions which I'm not a huge fan of) means that they will hold in heat much better. If you do decide to build one yourself, I would link into building a frame, then enclosing 3 sides with a good insulation

[Slim]

I'm getting the impression that you are safety adverse to using heat tape. Personally, I've never found it to be unsafe, but I am curious about your apprehension in using it.

[Zombie]

So I'm going to ether build or buy an adult rack very soon and obviously safety of my family and of my snakes is going to be my first concern, with price and functionality coming in tied for second.

It seems to me from the research I've been doing that I can build a rack that's about twice the size of one I can buy for about the same price. I like the plans on the Bailey & Bailey site but I don't like that they daisy chain the heat tape together like that... So I would probably do that differently.

Any other plans floating around that would be cheaper/safer?

If I end up buying one I have been going back and forth between the boaphile, reptile basics, and vision racks.

I really like the heat cable as instead of heat tape in the vision racks. It sounds much safer than the heat tape but I don't know if I like the price tag...

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
-Steve


Send in your two cents!
Http://Yourtwocentsworth.com

I prefer heat cable, it may cost more but you can just add a few coils for more heat or remove some for less. It is also coated in a fire resistant material. I use both for different things, but whenever I build racks or anything I always pic up heat cable for it. The heat tape heats up fast and cools down fast IMO at least in my experience. The heat cable seems to stay warm after turned off for a while making an on/off tstat work better. I wouldn't use an on/off tstat with heat cable unless I had a rheostat to help maintain temps from fluctuating too much. At least that's what it was like with the last bit I used.

Different strokes for different folks. You will just have to use both and decide which you like better...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

[Simple Man]

I don't like heat cable,I don't think that it is any safer than flexwatt. AP makes good racks as well.

I feel that buying racks is worth it, they last longer and are built better (by computer controlled machines) They cost more upfront, but the fact that they are enclosed (except Visions which I'm not a huge fan of) means that they will hold in heat much better. If you do decide to build one yourself, I would link into building a frame, then enclosing 3 sides with a good insulation

With all due respect, there is nothing wrong with DIY racks. My DIY build can be built open design or enclosed. Open design works great for a heated reptile room that many collectors have and saves cost. My racks are just as nice and will last just as long as a commercial rack at half or less of the cost. It's XPVC so it won't have any sort of breakdown if you are unfamiliar with the material. Let's be honest here, screwing together some plastic pieces isn't rocket science. I can see if some people want to buy for time saving issues. If you're even partly handy you can screw together some precut pieces from a plastics manufacture. This will save tons of money. I now make racks on the side for local people and make some side cash while saving them a lot of money.

Here's a 41qt x 9 level I just built.






Here is a dual purpose 2 x 15qt per level or 1 x 32qt. You can use any combo of the two. This works great for hatchlings, subadults, and adult males. This was the first rack I made and still works great!



And here is a link to my DIY thread.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...lete-with-pics!

PM me if you decide to build and save some money. I'll gladly help you any way I can. Lots of people have used this info to make some great racks that are working great.

Regards,

B

[4Ballz]

has anyone tried doing a system using pvc and running warm water through it? in the zig zag form? of course you would need a huge setup, but I was thinking about heated garages out here, and how we use this setup to do radiant heat. I'm thinking of scraping one section of my bar, and doing the whole wall into a rack system. It's almost 14-15ft long, and just over 2 feet deep, and 7 foot ceiling. I love diy threads, this is a keeper for me. (sorry if I'm thread stealing)

[jbean7916]

I prefer heat cable, it may cost more but you can just add a few coils for more heat or remove some for less. It is also coated in a fire resistant material. I use both for different things, but whenever I build racks or anything I always pic up heat cable for it. The heat tape heats up fast and cools down fast IMO at least in my experience. The heat cable seems to stay warm after turned off for a while making an on/off tstat work better. I wouldn't use an on/off tstat with heat cable unless I had a rheostat to help maintain temps from fluctuating too much. At least that's what it was like with the last bit I used.

Different strokes for different folks. You will just have to use both and decide which you like better...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

I wish I hadn't thrown out my table that was singed from heat cable before I got a pic. We had the cable in our animal plastics cage short out and it burned the pattern right into the top of the table and turned the cable grooves into a lovely toast color. Scary considering we didn't know until several hours after when our hot spot temp wasn't holding.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

[mr.spooky]

With all due respect, there is nothing wrong with DIY racks. My DIY build can be built open design or enclosed. Open design works great for a heated reptile room that many collectors have and saves cost. My racks are just as nice and will last just as long as a commercial rack at half or less of the cost. It's XPVC so it won't have any sort of breakdown if you are unfamiliar with the material. Let's be honest here, screwing together some plastic pieces isn't rocket science. I can see if some people want to buy for time saving issues. If you're even partly handy you can screw together some precut pieces from a plastics manufacture. This will save tons of money. I now make racks on the side for local people and make some side cash while saving them a lot of money.

Here's a 41qt x 9 level I just built.






Here is a dual purpose 2 x 15qt per level or 1 x 32qt. You can use any combo of the two. This works great for hatchlings, subadults, and adult males. This was the first rack I made and still works great!



And here is a link to my DIY thread.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...lete-with-pics!

PM me if you decide to build and save some money. I'll gladly help you any way I can. Lots of people have used this info to make some great racks that are working great.

Regards,

B

where do you get the xpvc at? I just got a AP 10 slot economy rack (pretty much what you made). I would much rather build my own. Iv also made the melamine racks, but that crap is HEAVY thanks
spooky

[Zombie]

I wish I hadn't thrown out my table that was singed from heat cable before I got a pic. We had the cable in our animal plastics cage short out and it burned the pattern right into the top of the table and turned the cable grooves into a lovely toast color. Scary considering we didn't know until several hours after when our hot spot temp wasn't holding.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

I hear ya. There is definitely risk with any heating device. Although I would rather have a scorched shelf then have a full fire, ya know? Seems like I have heard more about fires with heat tape than cable. When heat cable malfunctions it just smolders. The coating is a fire resistant. Same reason I prefer metal or PVC racks to wood, fire resistant. You are right to point out that there is no fool proof method, everything has its risks...

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[Simple Man]

where do you get the xpvc at? I just got a AP 10 slot economy rack (pretty much what you made). I would much rather build my own. Iv also made the melamine racks, but that crap is HEAVY thanks
spooky

I used Professional Plastics. And before you say it, the prices on the site are NOT what I pay locally. There aren't anywhere close. I think that's just a generic site. If you search Google for plastics suppliers and manufactures you will get a call list. I spent about half an hour calling the local places until I found the one I use now. They are great and since I've done enough business with them cut the plastic to my spec included in the price of a sheet of XPVC. I can get any color or thickness option I need. I use 1/2" for my racks. I have a 50 x 6qt hatchling rack that uses 1/4". I'm paying ~$85 a sheet cut for 1/2" white. Black is ~$90. The 41qt uses 2 sheets. The 15/32qt tub uses a single sheet. You don't have to be a math whiz to realize the savings in that.

Regards,

B