Neonate clown ball python hasn't shed!

[llovelace]

As stated before, getting a snake right out of the egg can be tricky, you properly should have gotten it after the shed, but what's done is done, so let's move on.

1. 6qt shoebox set up, with hot spot of 92-93*
2. Paper towel substrate misted often, until shed
3. Offer hopper mice to get started feeding
4. NO handling, at all until feeding consistently, only to change substrate

[R&DP]

As stated before, getting a snake right out of the egg can be tricky, you properly should have gotten it after the shed, but what's done is done, so let's move on.

1. 6qt shoebox set up, with hot spot of 92-93*
2. Paper towel substrate misted often, until shed
3. Offer hopper mice to get started feeding
4. NO handling, at all until feeding consistently, only to change substrate

x2

[K2exotics]

I agree with all the suggestions, and suggest following them asap.

I have two 2010 babies that are still in sweater boxes because they stress out and go off food in larger tubs, I am willing to bet that stress is a major factor in this.

the only things I would add to the advice are this: you didn't mention the babies size or if there has been weight loss. I suggest a live feeding to try to get her interested in eating and hopefully increase the chance of a shed. I would keep her humidity on the higher side but def lower the temps. Try to keep her in a quiet place that is as stress/stimulant free as possible. Make sure she has tight fitting hides too!

Good luck and update us with any news.

[DC Reptiles]

Have you been paying attention to the weight of the snake? You may have to assist feed if something doesn't happen soon. Did the hatchling have much yolk left when coming out of the egg or did it come out pretty much absorbed? ARe their hides if so is the snake usuing them? Can you get a pic of the snake up, so we can see how the snake looks?

[WingedWolfPsion]

Some hatchlings, usually undersized ones (though not always), will skip their first shed. They usually begin feeding at the same time as their siblings that have shed normally, and go on to shed out on schedule for their second shed. I wouldn't worry about the shedding so long as the humidity is kept high.

Definitely use a smaller enclosure, as everyone has said, and start the baby on live hopper mice--or, if it IS undersized, start it on mouse crawlers.

I do not recommend purchasing a snake right out of the egg unless you've hatched a few clutches yourself. I don't actually recommend doing it at all, but at the very least you should have that much experience before even considering it. While most snakes begin feeding without issues, some individuals, and some entire CLUTCHES, can be fussy and difficult. Some even require assist-feeding multiple times before they will eat, and that's not something that should be attempted by beginners.

[Anatopism]

Adding to the other suggestions, you might try blacking out the tub...several of our snakes refuse to eat unless they are in a black tub (only light being from air holes). We've gotten several hatchlings straight from the egg from a friend who breeds lots of bps... but we can get ahold of him at any time, and are experienced with assist feeding if it comes down to it. One clutch of het pied boys came to us very finicky... and most have started eating on their own. The last 3 have gotten better with assist feeding and will take it soon as it's in their mouth. One of my girls prefers a larger tub with. Bedding rather than news paper, others prefer a tub they can barely move around in. My point being... each snake is an individual, and there are many different methods to keeping ball pythons. Reduce stressors as much as possible, as others have said.