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  1. #21
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    i've had some similar problems with Mr. Stubbs lately. he likes to hiss and has struck at me a few times thru the glass. (i kind of chalked that up to the fact it was feeding day) I will definitely have to watch his humidity levels. usually after i've pet him for a bit, he will calm down, and once he is out of his cage, he's a very active lil explorer, but calm as ever...
    Ball Python named Mr. Stubbs, Snow Corn named Pinky 52 1/4" at last shed

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    mark and marley (06-02-2011)

  3. #22
    Registered User Ofromda860's Avatar
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    Quote Originally Posted by rperry03 View Post
    What do you have controlling the temp of the uth? They can get over 120 depending on the size.
    I would look into a 60 or 100 watt heat emitter and a thermostat that controls the emitter and uth.

    You need hides on both sides so they will regulate their temps themselves.
    I have no lights at all, there is enough ambient light in my home.As far as size for UTH, It was the one recommended for a 29 gallon tank which is what I own. Says 80 watts. I do not have anything controlling the temps, big newb mistake I guess. Off to the pet shop I go, lol.

  4. #23
    BPnet Veteran rperry03's Avatar
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    Quote Originally Posted by jujuju View Post
    Not trying to call you out but...
    Ceramic heat emitters, I thought, were supposedly very dangerous to the snake?
    And the snake should only be fed a mouse/rat that is about the same size around as the biggest part of the snake itself. This should be done every 5 - 7 days for younger snakes, and every 7 days for older ones. All snakes are different, their snake may not be able to handle a 45-60 gram rat/mouse at the moment, or it may not be enough.
    If his snake is over a year old it should be able to eat a rat that size, but you are right and that is why I also said depending on the size. I have a 200 gram 2yr old rtb that was underfed when I got her. She eats a 65 gram rat and leaves a little lump.

    I have never heard a che being dangerous since it's only heat.
    What or why have you heard that they are bad?

  5. #24
    BPnet Veteran rperry03's Avatar
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ofromda860 View Post
    I have no lights at all, there is enough ambient light in my home.As far as size for UTH, It was the one recommended for a 29 gallon tank which is what I own. Says 80 watts. I do not have anything controlling the temps, big newb mistake I guess. Off to the pet shop I go, lol.
    Unfortunately it cost more money than some think for a setup. I bet the bottom is realllly hot since it is a med or lrg uth. Dimmer at home depot or lowes will work temporally but a digital thermostat works best. Try a 60 watt lamp and heat emitter

  6. #25
    Registered User bsavage's Avatar
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

    Familiarize yourself with the information on this sheet and follow it. If the snake is still bitey afterwards, then maybe you just have one of those snakes, but I would believe he's a little upset about being just a little too cold all the time.
    2.7 Normal
    0.1 Spider
    1.0 NERD Lemon Pastel het. for Ghost
    1.0 Pinstripe
    1.0 Mojave
    1.1 Lesser
    1.1 Normal Het. Albino

    1.1 Pastel Salmon BCI's(RTB) Poss het. for Albino

  7. #26
    BPnet Veteran rperry03's Avatar
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    Oh and if his belly is that warm then he is probably digesting his food quickly

    I made a mistake when I moved and instead of plugging the power strip into the thermostat I plugged it into straight power, I came back 10 min later and the digital thermo indicated 136 and 2 bp's and boa were all on top of their hides trying to get away from the heat
    Last edited by rperry03; 06-02-2011 at 04:47 PM.

  8. #27
    Registered User mark and marley's Avatar
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    Images: 4
    everyones got you covered with the handling,heating,heating controllers and placement of hiding spots.
    someone mentioned size of hiding spots.if your avatar is your setup then to me that hiding cave looks too big and there is too much open area in that tank.cluttering it would be good.i dont know though considering the pic doesnt show much and there wasnt specific descriptions of everything.and i agree with j h smith.just do it,dont be scared,you will be bit and thats the risk you take owning any pet(that can bite).snakie needs to get used to you being in his space for cleaning and such.

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  10. #28
    Registered User mark and marley's Avatar
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    id say a che is only dangerous if snakie can get in contact with it and or its not regulated by a thermostat.

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    PitOnTheProwl (06-02-2011)

  12. #29
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    Quote Originally Posted by rperry03 View Post
    I have never heard a che being dangerous since it's only heat.
    What or why have you heard that they are bad?
    I've heard about it and actually had a friend experience theirs shorting out and losing control of their heat, which ended up frying their baby burmese. They were pretty devastated, which is the reason I spoke up. They had it on a thermostat, but both shorted at the same time. (They believe it was a power surge) But it's one's own choice, I myself just don't trust them lol

  13. #30
    Registered User Ofromda860's Avatar
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    Re: Aggresive ball...

    Quote Originally Posted by mark and marley View Post
    everyones got you covered with the handling,heating,heating controllers and placement of hiding spots.
    someone mentioned size of hiding spots.if your avatar is your setup then to me that hiding cave looks too big and there is too much open area in that tank.cluttering it would be good.i dont know though considering the pic doesnt show much and there wasnt specific descriptions of everything.and i agree with j h smith.just do it,dont be scared,you will be bit and thats the risk you take owning any pet(that can bite).snakie needs to get used to you being in his space for cleaning and such.
    Just took it 5 mins ago...


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