Sure! I'm on tapatalk right now and for some reason I can't link the The two threads that are stickies. But if you go into Bp husbandry section there's at the top two threads one is called "bp caresheet". And the other is "tank set up my way". I believe they are called. Both are written by members and right on time. The stickies in the husbandry section are excellent and you can learn exactly how to set things up. But In a run down. The tank needs two sections a hot side a d cool side. Hot side need to be 90-92 on the glass. And cold side 80. Since bps are terrestrial the ambient temp is pretty usless since they thermoregulate off of belly heat. So the best thing to do is get a uth that is no more than 2/3 the size of the tank or 1/2 and 1/2 works well too and a dimmer or a decently priced thermostat. There's one called Hydrofarm that you can order online and that will run you like 50 right around. A dimmer you get at the hardware store and they make some that you plug lamps right into. You'll have to fiddle with it a bit and check on it bc it's not a tstat. But it could work as a safety temporary system so the uth doesn't burn him. The tstat turns the uth off and on according to what temp you have it set on. Next important piece of equipment is a digital thermometer. An inside/outside one. You can secure the probe on the glass with hotglue so you know the exact temps on the glass. If you do get a thermostat secure them together with the glue on the hot side. Now then you'll know the accurate temp on the floor of the hot side. And generally If the hot side is accurate your cool side will be as well. Either way the hs is the most important part. Humidity is another important part. This helps the shed ,poop etc. Your comment in your intial post about him retaining his eye caps shows that the humidity was a little off and that's something we should correct. You can put a towel folded up on the screen to help retain humidity. Or others have used plexiglass. Spray heavily 2x daily so that it's nice and moist but dries out over time, you may have to do this
More or less but this is what used to work for me when I had tanks but your area weather plays a big part In that. If it's sopping wet all the time do it less if its bone dry and dries out quickly go more or find a different way of retaining humidity. Geneslly if you get a gauge it should never drop below 60%. Digital again is the best.
Now feeding,
I choose to feed smaller but more frequent feedings. This helps prevent fasting as well as big meals can be hard to digest if temps are incorrect. That's probably why the once a month had been working. But it can lead to problems like sepsis if he's holding on to digested food for too long. Anyways I generally feed weaned or 6-10 week old rats. To my balls. I have balls of various sizes from big big girls to hatchlings to small males and yearlings. So it depends on their size for the weekly feeding. For a male of his size I think like a small rat would be a good meal for him. One that's been weaned for a few weeks but not even close to adult yet. I'd put a rat like that at 7-8 weeks old. If he'll take that weekly or even bi weekly your saving yourself a hell of alot of issues and worry. Sometimes males can go on a fast for up to 10 months when they are fed big infrequent meals. If you switch that up you have less of an issue. The last suggestion I have is to get a grams scale. They are pretty cheap. Mine is a kitchen scale I got at rite aid for 10$. And a notebook. Weigh him monthly, and write down every feeding, shed, and defecation. This way if he stops eating you can weigh him a bit more frequently and see if he's losing weight or if its just a normal fast. You can see if or when a problem started occurring, and if you ever have to bring him to the vet you bring it with you and actually have a compete history. So this is super long and hopefully your eyes haven't sucked back Into your head from reading ro much.
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