Everyone is growing up :)

[sungmina]

0.1 Pastel "Monet" nearly up to 500g



0.1 Spider "Itsy" 550g



1.0 Pewter "Hugo" 350g



0.1 Cinnamon "Cinnab****" 85g (This girl refuses to eat no matter what... any tips for a stubbornly bad non-eater?)



0.1 Normal "Big Mama" over 1100g (my scale doesn't go high enough)



Thanks for looking! I am so happy with my modest little collection

[Animals As Leaders]

Thats an awesome little collection you got there!! I love the pewter and the normal on the bottom! Thanks for sharing!!

[saber2th]

Really nice collection! That's a nice looking normal!

[iCandiBallPythons]

Looking good

[ballpythonluvr]

Gorgeous snakes! I love the eyes on that pastel!

[bsash]

You have some great looking snakes, I am very drawn to the pewter and cinnamon. As for the cinnamon being a bad eater, you could try live if you are not doing so. Ask who you got her from what they were feeding, some ball pythons can be very picky as to whether they will eat mice or rats. If you are not currently, try adding some nice tight fitting hides, even if you have a rack system, sometimes it does make a difference.

[ThePaganJew]

Mina, you always have excellent taste in animals. They're all turning out so nicely.

[Kysenia]

Great looking group

[sungmina]

Thanks everyone! I love my balls

As for the cinnamon being a bad eater, you could try live if you are not doing so. Ask who you got her from what they were feeding, some ball pythons can be very picky as to whether they will eat mice or rats. If you are not currently, try adding some nice tight fitting hides, even if you have a rack system, sometimes it does make a difference.

She came from the same breeder as the pastel, it is just that the pastel loves eating and the cinnamon does not (the cinnamon is 2 months younger, I didn't get them at the same time.)

I feed live so, she has been getting live since I've gotten her, she has had 3 assist feedings and she ate one mouse hopper on her own. And then she has refused meals for the past 3 weeks.

She is in a rack but I still have a nice little hide for her, which she uses, but she also comes out of very frequently. All of my snakes are GREAT eaters, except her, I think she is a little sassy...

[cinderbird]

Your pastel has to be one of the best I've seen! She is absolutely beautiful. And your pewter! what breeder did they come from? Pewters are my favorite morph.

If it helps, here is my canned reply on non-feeders, not all of it applies to you and ive taken out chunks that definately don;t. It doesnt work 100% of the time, but 95% or so. I have a baby I just had to force feed not happy about that. At least she's taking for you with assists. If she still refuses to eat in a month or so (before it gets to cold to ship) I might contact the breeder and ask what they can do. Sometime you can return the animal for exhange it. :

Feeder Quality
The quality of your feeders matters. I had some older feeders who were not in the best shape, I got new much better looking, smelling and appearing feeders from a few vendors at a local show and it REALLY showed when i went to feed my snakes with these new feeders. Personally, if i have a refusal i don't re-freeze the rodent. I use quite a bit of time to defrost so i dont trust them. Luckily, i have a garbage disposal of a spider female and just give her the left overs.

When picking out feeders, look for clean whole animals (the occasional rodent missing a tail tip or foot is completely acceptable, as is the occasional urine stain especially on a white mouse or rat. Or a few poops). Rodents, even frozen ones do SMELL rodent-y. Its like an earthy musty smell. When the rodents smell FOUL you want to discard them.

Anyway, onto the more useful info:

PRE SCENT PRE SCENT PRE SCENT.
Pre scenting, i have noticed, will trigger most snakes to go into feeding mode. What I do personally, is stick the mice and rats im going to feed my snakes into an empty tub in their rack (i feed frozen thawed and happen to have empty rack space in my rack). I let the rodents defrost for about 5 hours or more. The larger items go over the heat tape, the smaller ones don't have to. I then take out a hair dryer and give all the rodents a quick blast with it on low. I usually have the hair dryer on, but not directly on the rodents because you dont want to cook them. Within 30 seconds all my snakes are out cursing their enclosures looking for food.

Other methods of presenting are leaving the rodents to thaw near the enclosure of the snake. Weather it be a live rodent or defrosting in a baggie with warm water and leaving the corner of the baggie open.

Always make sure your rodents are warm enough. They should feel warm to the touch (not hot, not cold). And make sure they are thoroughly defrosted. You can check this by squeezing the ribs and stomach of the rodent lightly. If you get give the rodent is defrosted. If you squeeze and you dont feel any movement of the ribs, then the rodent is not yet defrosted .

SWITCHING PREY TYPES and SCENTING:
Ball pythons can be pretty picky when it comes to their food. If they like mice, sometimes they want to stay on mice, but you want to move them to rats (for whatever reason you choose).

Always try just feeding the wanted prey type first, you'd be surprised how many snakes just don't care and smell "rodent" instead of individualizing, and end up eating.

If you feed F/T, defrost 2 prey items that together reach the size of the prey item you want to feed your snake. Have one of them be the first prey type, and the other be the second prey type. Take the first prey item (hereby called mouse) and rub it all over the second prey item (we'll call that one rat). I usually try to rub the head, belly and genital area of the mouse on the rat. I don't really know rodent anatomy other than the gross anatomy stuff but i assume rodents have scent glands in their faces and genital areas. Do this pretty liberally. You might not be able to discern a difference between the two, but your snake may. Try to offer the rat (second item) once you've done this. If the snake doesn't take it, try rubbing the mouse on the rat some more (this is called scenting). Try offering it again (make sure it is warm, the item may have cooled off by now).

Hopefully the snake will take it, if not, offer the first prey item first (mouse). Let the snake eat that item. Once it has finished and realigned its jaws offer the second item. Since the snake is in feeding mode, it may take the rodent since it already smells vaguely of its preferred type.

If this doesn't work, try it again at the next feeding. If you have to skip a feeding session to try to switch your snake it is ok. These snakes eat much more often in captivity than they do in the wild. Baby snakes can go with skipping a meal every once in a while. Until your snake switches, keep scenting the rodent by rubbing it with the other prey type.

With older, more established animals, skipping a few feeding sessions may be in order. Be aware that there are some snakes that will never switch. They would rather starve than eat prey type two.

Starting Babies
So, you just got your first ball python, its a cute little baby that weighs about 60 grams. Its head might be a little funny shaped because its thin, and it has a triangle look to its body where its spine is a little more apparent than it should be. You offer it a F/T rat, and when it dosen't take it, you worry.

It is possible to get an unstarted baby without realizing it. Most responsible breeders will make sure their babies have fed at least 2 times before selling them, but not every breeder or pet store is like this.

Let your baby settle in for 7 days with no handling except for cage maintenance (cleaning or weighing). After this 7 day period, I suggest offering a live hopper or small adult mouse. Remove any cage furniture that the rodent can hide in like vines or the second hide. Prescent the room by leaving the rodent in a secure container with a few air holes in it so your snake can smell it.

Introduce the rodent into the side of the enclosure OPPOSITE from the one your snake is on. Your snake will most likely be in its hide. The snake should get interested in the prey item but it will be unsure of itself. The process of striking, coiling and eating may take an hour or more for the snake to really figure it out. Just trust your snake. They are little predators and instinctively should know what to do. Dont leave your snake unattended with a live rodent. I keep a pair of hemostats handy just to keep a bitey rodent from snacking on my snake.

I would offer a live prey item to the snake at the next feeding. Then, at the third feeding, if you want to try switching your snake to F/T you can try it.

Pre scent (! ) youre prey item, make sure it is dry and offer it to your snake off of hemostats. Hold the prey item with the hemostats near the scruff or the shoulder blades. If your snake takes it off the hemostats, congrats! If not, try doing the zombie dance. The zombie dance is moving the rodent in natural ways simulating life so that your snake thinks the prey is alive. Move the rodent slowly, and dont harass the snake with it (ie, don't bump your snake in the nose or body with the rodent). If your snake is in feeding mode you'll be able to tell. (Intent stare, flickering tongue, "s" curve in the neck). If they are in feeding mode, you will probably elicit a feeding strike. If your snake strikes and constricts, give the tail of the rodent a few tugs to simulate struggling. This will further ingrain the feeding response and help to curb any spitting out of the rodent.

Once your snake strikes and constricts, leave it alone in a dim room. Keep an eye on it but don't pester it much. If you bother your snake too much it may spit out the prey item.

I'll be adding to this thread as i figure out more information. Hopefully this will shed some light on helping these sometimes stubborn snakes eat.