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Registered User
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
What wattage is your CHE? Maybe you should consider UTHs.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
 Originally Posted by jfreels
what wattage is your che? Maybe you should consider uths.
100w ... Uth?
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Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
Undertank heater. They are more recommended for royals. Since, they don't need a basking spot. I'm not sure if you are using this for your hot side, or cool side. The cool side only needs to be around 80-82. The hot side needs 90-92.
Even if you get a bigger guard how will it not get so hot? I think an undertank heater is the best way to go.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
 Originally Posted by stratus_020202
Undertank heater. They are more recommended for royals. Since, they don't need a basking spot. I'm not sure if you are using this for your hot side, or cool side. The cool side only needs to be around 80-82. The hot side needs 90-92.
Even if you get a bigger guard how will it not get so hot? I think an undertank heater is the best way to go.
Can't use an undertank heater in that viv stack ....
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Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
Hi,
You can it just may be a pain to set up. 
Some pics of the stack and such might help with advice on it.
How about a radiant heat panel?
http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat_panels/
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
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Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
Hi,
They heat from the top - basically a straight replacement for your ceramic. Just connect them to the thermostat and you should be safe.
The main problem with the setup is the height as it means there is a lot of air to heatbefore any of it gets down to the animals.
I would be tempted to try moving the RHP to the center of the viv ceiling and use it to provide the ambients and then use a UTH ( again on a thermostat or other control device ) to provide the warm spot.
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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Registered User
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
I would just get something much smaller and use belly heat. I know they're custom, but they're probably going to be difficult. And that's a lot of space your ball will probably not feel comfortable or safe in.
I really wouldn't expect anything different from a heat bulb. Surround it with metal, that metal's going to get hot.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Lamp Guard getting too hot
 Originally Posted by dr del
Hi,
They heat from the top - basically a straight replacement for your ceramic. Just connect them to the thermostat and you should be safe.
The main problem with the setup is the height as it means there is a lot of air to heatbefore any of it gets down to the animals.
I would be tempted to try moving the RHP to the center of the viv ceiling and use it to provide the ambients and then use a UTH ( again on a thermostat or other control device ) to provide the warm spot.
dr del
How would you secure the UTH ? Assuming you use heatmats, the problem is that she is very active and as a result keeps even digging into substrate when moving so clearly I need to avoid having the heatmat directly under the substrate - would a thin sheet of wood work ?!?
I need to try to make those vivs work - they weren't cheap and I don't have enough room to add even more vivs and use them for different snakes or something ...
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