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  1. #11
    Registered User orphan's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Have you tried lighting a few candles and playing some Teddy Pendergrass? Usually works for me.





    j/k, good luck

  2. #12
    BPnet Senior Member Denial's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    I was actually thinking about giving that a try. Might set the mood lol

  3. #13
    Registered User ColdBloodedCarnival's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Hmmm.. It's always been the opposite case for me. I have never had to do anything special to get my burms to breed but I have had bad luck with balls! I always just place the male in with the females and it seems like 5 minutes later they are going at it and it goes on and on. I had him out one day and my friend was holding one of my female balls and he seemed really interested in her - he just kept trying to get to her!! Maybe my male just has an overactive sex drive!

    Well, good luck! Hopefully the new pairing will get you some eggs!

  4. #14
    BPnet Veteran twistedtails's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    When I had my burms in the past, I attempted to breed and had to get rid of them smack dab in the middle of the season. I did lots of research and came to the conclusion that the baro. pressure on rainy days had a big impact on them. You could try pairing on a rainy day. Also try feeding her a big meal and introducing the male the following day or so. Are you cooling them? Another good suggestion would be to call Bob Clark, he is a great guy and will most likely help you with any info you need.

  5. #15
    BPnet Senior Member Denial's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    I tried cooling them the first season I put them together and then started talking with other burm breeders and most of them dont cool there animals.

  6. #16
    BPnet Veteran mumps's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    I'm pretty old-school and when I was breeding burms in the nineties I always cooled and misted them more often, simulating a rainy season. Never had a problem though.

    Good luck this season, Denial.

    Chris
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  7. #17
    BPnet Veteran twistedtails's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denial View Post
    I tried cooling them the first season I put them together and then started talking with other burm breeders and most of them dont cool there animals.
    All animals are different. Your female may actually prefer a cooling period. Have you tried misting or rubbing another males sperm on her back? If you have another female you might try putting one of her sheds in with the one that doesn't want to breed. What are your light cycles like? You can sometimes stimulate breeding by making the nights longer that the days. It is also a big possibility that you female wasn't mature last year. Some girls can take up to 4 years to mature.

  8. #18
    BPnet Veteran twistedtails's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Here is a site that has some info....

    http://double-d-reptiles.tripod.com/burmcare.html

    Here is what they have listed for breeding...

    Breeding

    The big key here is to have sexually mature snakes of each sex. Burmese pythons reach this maturity if 18 months to 4 years. It is better described as a size with males reaching maturity at 7 to 9 feet and females being 9 feet or longer. Captive breeding usually occurs between late October and early March.
    Make sure your snakes are in good health and of good weight before attempting to breed them. Stop feeding at this time and reduce their light to 8 – 10 hours per day. Cage temps can also be reduces at this time to the upper 60s and low 70s at night with daytime temps not reaching much above 80 degrees. After at least a week, of cooler temps, slowly raise the temps and increase the available light. Misting them at this time may be helpful in simulating a rainy season. This is the time to introduce your snakes by placing the female into the male’s cage.

    After copulation, return the female to her own cage. She can take up to a month to ovulate and will lay eggs after a pre-lay shed. Females can lay 20 to 80+ eggs. Smaller, brownish colored eggs are usually infertile while good eggs resemble soft goose eggs that are white. The female will incubate good eggs and push infertile eggs, or slugs, out of her coils. Muscular contractions help her maintain optimum incubation temps. Artificial incubation can be done provided temperatures are between 88 and 90 degrees.

    Babies hatch in 55 to 70 days and are fully independent upon hatching.

    Infertile eggs are common when the female is kept in too small an enclosure to allow a proper temperature gradient before and during the breeding season. This is the #1 reason to have a large enclosure for these snakes, especially if you want to try breeding them when they mature. Another problem is keeping the snakes, usually the female, too warm durning ovulation and fetilization by trying to keep her too warm by forcing her into a temperature range that may in fact be warmer than is required. This can cause premature ovulation, improper shelling, and improper fertilization. As keepers, we often try to micro-manage the habitat and this often leads to a higer rate of failure than letting nature take its course within certain limiting factors.

  9. #19
    BPnet Senior Member Denial's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Well this is the first year that I have another male that has gotten big enough to breed so this will be the first year Ill be able to try two males with her. And I plan on trying the shed trick.

  10. #20
    BPnet Veteran twistedtails's Avatar
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    Re: I dont understand it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Denial View Post
    Well this is the first year that I have another male that has gotten big enough to breed so this will be the first year Ill be able to try two males with her. And I plan on trying the shed trick.
    Cool. Hope it works out for you. Let me know how it goes.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to twistedtails For This Useful Post:

    Denial (11-19-2009)

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