Here is a site that has some info....

http://double-d-reptiles.tripod.com/burmcare.html

Here is what they have listed for breeding...

Breeding

The big key here is to have sexually mature snakes of each sex. Burmese pythons reach this maturity if 18 months to 4 years. It is better described as a size with males reaching maturity at 7 to 9 feet and females being 9 feet or longer. Captive breeding usually occurs between late October and early March.
Make sure your snakes are in good health and of good weight before attempting to breed them. Stop feeding at this time and reduce their light to 8 – 10 hours per day. Cage temps can also be reduces at this time to the upper 60s and low 70s at night with daytime temps not reaching much above 80 degrees. After at least a week, of cooler temps, slowly raise the temps and increase the available light. Misting them at this time may be helpful in simulating a rainy season. This is the time to introduce your snakes by placing the female into the male’s cage.

After copulation, return the female to her own cage. She can take up to a month to ovulate and will lay eggs after a pre-lay shed. Females can lay 20 to 80+ eggs. Smaller, brownish colored eggs are usually infertile while good eggs resemble soft goose eggs that are white. The female will incubate good eggs and push infertile eggs, or slugs, out of her coils. Muscular contractions help her maintain optimum incubation temps. Artificial incubation can be done provided temperatures are between 88 and 90 degrees.

Babies hatch in 55 to 70 days and are fully independent upon hatching.

Infertile eggs are common when the female is kept in too small an enclosure to allow a proper temperature gradient before and during the breeding season. This is the #1 reason to have a large enclosure for these snakes, especially if you want to try breeding them when they mature. Another problem is keeping the snakes, usually the female, too warm durning ovulation and fetilization by trying to keep her too warm by forcing her into a temperature range that may in fact be warmer than is required. This can cause premature ovulation, improper shelling, and improper fertilization. As keepers, we often try to micro-manage the habitat and this often leads to a higer rate of failure than letting nature take its course within certain limiting factors.