Advice for Beginner setup. Read my list, make suggestions for alterations please.

[Wh00h0069]

Another option is to buy a plastic cage instead of using a glass aquarium. This site has very reasonable prices: http://dragons4you.net/Cages.html

[knott00]

So I am going to be setting up a tank before I buy my BP. This will be my first snake. I am planning on a normal male most likely. I am still a little unsure about the sex, but I think a male will be better due to smaller size, but at the same time a big ole female would be sweet. Are there any significant differences that would make me favor one or the other other than size? I am looking to set up fairly inexpensively however I am not against spending more money for quality to an extent. I am looking for spending like $150 for the setup. No more than $200 preferably.

Please look over my list of supplies and products that I have assembled so far and please comment or suggest alternatives or advice that can help.

1. I plan on a 20 gal tank to start with. How long would this last me if I chose to go with a female? I understand that a tank is more difficult to maintain the environment conditions, but I am dead set on a tank. I may upgrade to an animalplastic in a year or two, especially if I need to expand for a female. I am looking for one on craigslist to save money so I can spend it on other materials.

Personally I think a 20g tank is perfectly fine for a young snake as long as you have enough clutter in the tank to make the snake feel more confined. You should not bother with the tank hood, you won't need it and spend the money from that on some fake plans to put in the tank.

2. ReptiTemp 500r- I read that these are pretty good for the price. I was recommended a Helix by an admin, but they are really pricey. I also read somewhere to get an AcuRite thermometer, but if I have a ReptiTemp, would I need both? I am a little unclear/confused on this subject.

The ReptiTemp is a good T-stat. Especially for those who only have 1 tank or only have 1 UTH on their tank.(people who live in colder climates sometimes have a 2nd uth for the cool side of the tank so they can make sure its at the correct temp.

To answer your question about the AcuRite, people use them because you need to measure how much heat is actually in the bottom of your tank with your snake. The T-Stat probe does NOT go in the tank, it goes between your UTH and the glass of your tank(on the outside of your tank), so you will need something in there for your temp and humidity. People use the AcuRite specificly because it moniters temp from the probe on the warm side, the unit itself measures the temp of where its places, and also the humidity. So you can get everything you need from 1 thermometer, 1 stop shopping is a wonderful thing.

3. ZooMed UTH- Read good things about them. Any reason they arent good?

I use one and have no probelms with it.

4. I am going to get a ceramic heat emittor and a light hood. What wattage would you recommend? and would an 8 inch hood be big enough?

Unless the room you will be using for the snake is normally pretty cold, you won't need a cermaic heat emittor or a light hood. The natural daytime/nighttime light from a window or ambient light is enough for the snake.

5. ZooMed Aspen substrate- How many quarts should I get for my tank?

Aspen will be just fine.

6. 2 hides- I was told to stay away from log hides. How big should I aim for? I assume small hides, but maybe medium.

I agree with the poster above about the exotera hides, they work very well. A small hide will work well for your hatchling for quite a while, you'd be suprised what they can squeeze into even when they are bigger.

7. 1 climbing log

Your hatchling may use this from time to time, however when he/she grows into an adult you'll rarely see your snake on it.

8. 1 heavy water bowl large enough for snake to lay in

Make sure you have a large bowl with enough surface area to keep the humidity in the tank up. I have the large exotera rock bowl and it works perfectly with my 20g.


Additional items:

9. I was looking for possibly getting a temp gun to spot check temps. What brand and model would you recommend that is fairly inexpensive and reliable?

I personally don't have a temp gun, even though I should have one.

10. PAM mite killer- seems to be most recommended
If you don't have mites, there isn't really any reason to have this. If your snake didn't come with mites, it probably won't get them while living with you.
11. What cleaning supplies would you all recommend?

plain old blue dawn dish soap works perfectly fine for beaking down your tank and cleaning it.

Im sure I am forgetting something as I am doing this list mostly off the top of my head. I have done lots of research about getting a snake before I pull the trigger on getting one. I unfortunatly wasnt smart enough to take notes on what to buy. Please comment and make all the suggestions you want. I encourage all the feedback whether positive or negative.

You will also eventually want a scale. You should feed your snake 10%-15% of its weight every feeding. With younger snakes(below 500grams), feeding should be every 5 days. With snakes above 500grams feedings can go to once every 7 days.

I would like to thank everyone in advance for any comments. So far everyone here has been quite helpful with any questions I have had via PM's.

[Jason Bowden]

1. 20 gal tank could last it's entire life for a male. 40 gal breeder tank(36x18x16) would be big enough for an adult female. I wouldn't start a baby or juvenile in any thing bigger than the 20 gal.
2. For only one pet snake I'd go with a reostat and save a bunch of cash. Use a thermometer with a probe on your under tank heater to adjust and moniter the reostat setting.
3. Zoomed UTH is fine.
4. Scratch / don't need or want this. It will cause your enclosure to have no humidity that your snake needs.
5. Aspen is fine and looks good. Get a bunch it will have to be spot cleaned regularly and changed out monthly.
6. Get hides for the size of your snake. You could just crumple up paper(black or brown construction paper doesn't look bad) for the snake to hide under. I've also used butter bowls, etc. Turn over and cut a cave like entrance.
7. Ball pythons don't need the climbing log.
8. Works for me.
9. Temp guns are expensive. I use thermometers with probes.
10. You can't kill mites if you don't have them. A clean enclosure should stay mite free.
11. Common cleaners are fine. 409, etc A disinfectant cleaner would be more desireable. If you start a collection of snakes, use a good disinfectant cleaner like Nolvasan. One snake won't catch a disease from itself. They are clean healthy animals if you give them what they require and keep their enclosure clean.
12. Screen tank tops: Cover up to 90% of the top with plastic, aluminum foil, etc. to keep in heat and humidity.
13. Have fun!

[specialk01510]

Ok, so I am going to start with a 20 gal tank and add plenty of clutter. I would start with a 10 gal I have laying around, but I dont want to buy 2 sets of UTH's for another tank when it out grows it. I think I might possibly use two UTH's because I live in Western Michigan and the weather suuuucks. I think 2 UTH's would work better than 1 UTH and a ceramic heat lightbulb-thinger. Not to mention the Fraternity house I live in gets damn cold in the winter. I have to heat my own bedroom for me to be there, even more so for the snake. I know all this heat will hurt humidity a little, but I plan on having the top covered with plexiglass like the previous poster said. Thin plexiglass is cheap, so idk why more people dont do it. If I have to mist everyday, then Ill mist everyday. Gotta do what I gotta do. I am keeping the cage in my bedroom as it is the warmest place and warmest most of the day. It will also be on the inner most wall of the bedroom to help with temps as best as I can.

I am scratching the climbing log off the list. I thought it would look cool, and if its not gonna really be used then whatever. I can always get one later.

I am gonna get a temp gun as I can use it for other things too. Besides, $25 to be able to spot check and make sure that all temps are correct? Sounds like a good investment to me.

When a male is fully grown, he will eat like 1 large mouse a feeding correct? Would that be large enough for a Fully grown female? Cuz I remember reading that if you are going to have to make the switch from mice to rats, that it is easier just to start off one the correct one.

I think I might be happier with a female in the long run. Im not 100% sure tho.

I will have a plastic tub for feeding and for transportation if need be.

[knott00]

Ok, so I am going to start with a 20 gal tank and add plenty of clutter. I would start with a 10 gal I have laying around, but I dont want to buy 2 sets of UTH's for another tank when it out grows it. I think I might possibly use two UTH's because I live in Western Michigan and the weather suuuucks. I think 2 UTH's would work better than 1 UTH and a ceramic heat lightbulb-thinger. Not to mention the Fraternity house I live in gets damn cold in the winter. I have to heat my own bedroom for me to be there, even more so for the snake. I know all this heat will hurt humidity a little, but I plan on having the top covered with plexiglass like the previous poster said. Thin plexiglass is cheap, so idk why more people dont do it. If I have to mist everyday, then Ill mist everyday. Gotta do what I gotta do. I am keeping the cage in my bedroom as it is the warmest place and warmest most of the day. It will also be on the inner most wall of the bedroom to help with temps as best as I can.

I am scratching the climbing log off the list. I thought it would look cool, and if its not gonna really be used then whatever. I can always get one later.

I am gonna get a temp gun as I can use it for other things too. Besides, $25 to be able to spot check and make sure that all temps are correct? Sounds like a good investment to me.

I agree, it is a good investment that can be used for more than just your snake.

When a male is fully grown, he will eat like 1 large mouse a feeding correct? Would that be large enough for a Fully grown female? Cuz I remember reading that if you are going to have to make the switch from mice to rats, that it is easier just to start off one the correct one.

For a large female you may need to feed 2 large mice. This is where having a scale would come in handy so you could feed her 10-15% of her body weight. Just weigh the snake, then weigh the mouse and you'll know if the size you have is correct.

I think I might be happier with a female in the long run. Im not 100% sure tho.



I will have a plastic tub for feeding and for transportation if need be.

Your snake should come in a snake bag. I would use this for transportation. Once she grows too big for the bag you can just use a pillow case. And about having a seperate enclosure for feeding, I don't really agree with this. I feed inside the enclosure and have never had my snake be aggresive towards me. Most of the bite stories I have read are from people who feed in a seperate enclosure.

I personally would minimize handling on feeding day, and feeding in a seperate enclosure forces you to handle the snake and the food item and gives you more chances to make a feeding error and cause a bite.

[mrshawt]

Yeah, the only time I ever got bit was when I was taking my bp out of her feeding tub and back into her tank. Since I've started feeding in her enclosure, her reactions towards my hands in the tub haven't changed.

[specialk01510]

Alright, then I will concider feeding in my tank. Do you guys do anything like put down a piece of cardboard that is like half the size of the tank inside of the tank for feeding? Feed that on that piece of cardboard to help prevent any substrait getting eaten? I read someone did this but I dont know if it is a very common process.

And thanks for the 10-15% of bodyweight tip. I did not know that one. Very useful.

[knott00]

Alright, then I will concider feeding in my tank. Do you guys do anything like put down a piece of cardboard that is like half the size of the tank inside of the tank for feeding? Feed that on that piece of cardboard to help prevent any substrait getting eaten? I read someone did this but I dont know if it is a very common process.

And thanks for the 10-15% of bodyweight tip. I did not know that one. Very useful.

I feed frozen/thawed food, so all I do is just fold a piece of paper in half and put the food on it. If you are feeding live it would be a good idea to put a larger piece of cardboard down. Your snake eating a little bit of the substrat here and there is not a problem. After all, a snake's stomach acid is strong enough to disolve bone and teeth. Even the ovens at a crematory have difficulty doing that.

[specialk01510]

I feed frozen/thawed food, so all I do is just fold a piece of paper in half and put the food on it. If you are feeding live it would be a good idea to put a larger piece of cardboard down. Your snake eating a little bit of the substrat here and there is not a problem. After all, a snake's stomach acid is strong enough to disolve bone and teeth. Even the ovens at a crematory have difficulty doing that.

My plans are to do F/T, but I guess I wont know what I will be doing until I get my snake. F/T is the plan unless other measures are required.

[knott00]

its good to hear that you're doing all your research now. It would be a good idea to get everything you need and have your enclosure all set up and ready for your snake before you get the snake.

Best of luck to you, I hope everything goes well! From the look of it, it sounds like you're off to a great start.