Tank size questions

[dakski]

The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side.

As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out.

Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F

Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck

I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank.

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"The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side."

Okay, so it's a dimmer, not a thermostat. Use the dimmer to limit upper temp range if you want (you can set a few degrees above necessary temp as an added precaution in case the thermostat fails open), but use the thermostat for a proper cutoff.

Again, do not bury the thermostat probe in the substrate. For UTH - between bottom of the tank and the UTH on the OUTSIDE of the tank. For CHE, etc. a few inches below the heating element in the tank. Probe temps will differ from actual temps. Could read 90F at probe near heating element and be 80F below. You have to make small adjustments until you get it right.

Probes in substrate can get wet from waste, water spilling, misting, etc. This will change the reading and can make for dangerous temps.

Always use a laser temp gun ($14 from home depot) for accurate ground temps. Do not rely on air thermometers or probe temps from thermostats.

I would recommend making all this adjustments until it's just fine tuning (within a 1F or so adjustments) without Lucy in the tank. Put her in a holding container for a few hours while you work out the temps and get them dialed in. Then check very regularly for a while until you have it down.


"As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out."


I haven't used eco earth, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. I believe CEDAR is toxic and Aspen shavings are fine. However, I don't use either, and again, someone else can chime in definitively.

Plexiglass with holes could work, but you would have to work it around the lamps or CHE (more on this in a minute) or cut a whole in it for the lamp fixture.


"Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F"

Not sure who Nick is, but CHE, like any heating device, are all fine if appropriate wattage AND CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT.

100W is probably way too high for a 30G as is 150W red bulb. I would recommend a 60W CHE and a small LED light if you want day/night. Red lights are still lights to a BP.

Having some light in day and no light at night = Day/night cycle.

"Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck"


BP's are nocturnal; hide and sleep all day and active at night is totally normal.

How long have you had her? How many times has she eaten for you now?

BP's are shy creatures, and even after many years of handling, most won't tolerate an hour, certainly not regularly.

My BP is docile and calm and is 6 years old. I've had her since she fit in the palm of my hand. If I took her out for an hour, she would have given me plenty of signals that was too much. I usually take her out 10-15 minutes tops for handling. Can I/have I gone longer, yes, but not often. She always rushes right back into a hide and curls up as soon as I put her back.

The rule of thumb for young/new BP's is 3 feedings in them before handling. They can be picky with eating, especially if stressed and/or husbandry isn't correct, which you are working on. Get everything right and then leave her alone until she's eaten 3 meals in a row. Only take her out for tank cleaning, etc.

Also, try not to handle on the day of feeding and for at least 24 hours after eating.

"I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank."

Okay and okay.