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For safety reasons, I'd try to get your temps. lowered just a couple degrees so the highest temps don't exceed 90*- some prefer 88* as a max. Snakes really do need the optional lower temps too, & 80-83* isn't much of a drop, so it would be best if you can lower the temps there too- just a couple degrees.
Remember that a snake's metabolism- & therefore weight loss- is based on the heat- for BPs, it's a fine line to walk, warm enough so they eat & digest well, & but cool enough so they don't burn it off too rapidly.
If his body weight is good, a month & a half isn't much of a fast, & it may or may not have resulted from his sensing the previous cooler temperatures. Some snakes do take the "hint" though when they sense temperature drops, but that ship has sailed, so other than tweaking the temps. you'll have to be patient- it goes with the species.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)
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Homebody (01-23-2022),KhansDaddy (01-23-2022),SS snakes (01-25-2022)
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Registered User
Re: On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x
Thank you for the reply!
ok so the hottest hot part (on top of the hot hide) should be no hotter than 90 (that would make his hot hide around 85 probably) And that’s the hottest part of the whole cage. I’m going to try changing back to a 75watt bulb and see if that will keep it hot enough. As far as the cool side, it should ideally be at…. 80? 75? What should it NOT be, like too cold.
thanks again for taking the time! I know this is such a beginner problem :x but all answers are sooo so different.
annnnddd I’m still working on getting pictures in here still. I’m still not understanding that. …. But that is alllll on my part I’m sure x)
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Re: On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x
Originally Posted by KhansDaddy
.... As far as the cool side, it should ideally be at…. 80? 75? What should it NOT be, like too cold...
I'd aim for about 78* on the coolest side. Your snake is a young adult, so as already mentioned, this just may have more to do with that & not so much the temperatures, but do fix them anyway.
PLEASE make sure you regulate the temps. for safety as well as his appetite.
And I agree, if your snake is refusing food, I'd also lengthen the time between offerings, from a week to 2 weeks, & potentially even longer- because offering too often just stresses them anyway, & can make them LESS likely to eat.
Understand that with snakes, especially BPs- food refusals "happen", & remember they often fast in the wild, according to the seasons & their needs. As creatures that eat multiple times a day, it tends to worry us until we get used to the idea that snakes are just designed to fast at times. Sometimes it's just what they do.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)
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Re: On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x
Originally Posted by Bogertophis
I'd aim for about 78* on the coolest side. Your snake is a young adult, so as already mentioned, this just may have more to do with that & not so much the temperatures, but do fix them anyway.
PLEASE make sure you regulate the temps. for safety as well as his appetite.
And I agree, if your snake is refusing food, I'd also lengthen the time between offerings, from a week to 2 weeks, & potentially even longer- because offering too often just stresses them anyway, & can make them LESS likely to eat.
Understand that with snakes, especially BPs- food refusals "happen", & remember they often fast in the wild, according to the seasons & their needs. As creatures that eat multiple times a day, it tends to worry us until we get used to the idea that snakes are just designed to fast at times. Sometimes it's just what they do.
allll this info, you are amazing! Thank you!
I’m going to try to find a thermostat so I can stop switching bulbs. Sounds like that will be MUCH better. … and then I guess I’ll just stop stressing so much! Ugh.
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Don't worry, you'll get all this. Some of us have been keeping many snakes for many years- I wish there'd been a forum like this when I first got interested in keeping snakes- it helps to ask the right people, not someone in a store that's just trying to make a sale, & not someone on a "certain social media site" that just enjoys belittling anyone that's inexperienced so they can feel superior. We're just here to help you get it right because we enjoy keeping snakes, & we all know how it feels to be new at this- we were all "new" once upon a time, lol.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)
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BTW,
As far as posting pics here most use Tapatalk app.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)
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I would definitely lower that hot spot like Bogertophis said.
Otherwise... You may be having your first experience with a ball python's food strike. Males especially will do this. As long as his body weight stays good, there's no real reason to stress. Just cut back food offers to every 2 weeks or so maybe.
One of my males will fast every winter. The others are good so far so it really can depend on the snake.
Just keep an eye out for any other symptoms. As long as he seems fine and just uninterested, let him do his thing.
Last edited by Armiyana; 01-23-2022 at 02:30 PM.
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Re: On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x
Changing bulbs to adjust temps sounds like you’re not using a thermostat. If that’s the case I would make that priority #1.
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Registered User
Re: On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x
Originally Posted by jmcrook
Changing bulbs to adjust temps sounds like you’re not using a thermostat. If that’s the case I would make that priority #1.
Hi.
I am not. How would I use that? That’s something I would plug the light I have now in? And it would automatically turn on and off?
ive been changing bulb wattages and watching the temps.
I have three zoomed thermometers throughout for visual and I use my radar heat gun a few times a day to double check accuracy.
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