New BP tank advice

I have a 2.5-ft, adult ball python that is currently housed in a 40-gal tank, 36" x 18" x 16". He seems a little cramped in there, and as a new snake parent, I unfortunately installed the UTH mat incorrectly -- installation instructions were horrible, thought the sensor went under the substrate, over the glass. And there is some heat damage to the lid from a previous owner, got the heating lamp too close. So I'm looking to get a new tank, make it a "Taj Mahal" for him. Is an 85 gal tank (48" x 24" x 18") too big? Looking at a model from Repti-Zoo. There is also an in-between model from Zilla at 48" x 18" x 18". Exo-Terra doesn't appear to make anything that big. I've seen in this forum that Focus-Cubed tops are popular as Exo-Terra tank lid replacements since they reduce airflow to improve humidity. But they don't seem to have anything for Repti-Zoo or Zilla. Maybe I could just cut some plexiglass to fit over the lid of at least one end? I also am going to *correctly* install a new UTH (live and learn) as well as set up a better moist hide for him with sphagnum moss. Currently he just has a couple of log hides along with a stick and his water bowl. One hide in particular is his favorite, but he's kinda outgrown it and doesn't quite fit all the way, pushes it up a little when he's coiled up inside, so I'll try to get him a couple of bigger hides. I already have a Wacool fogging humidifier but wondering if I'd need another one for a tank that large. I'll probably put in some digital thermometers for hot and cold sides, but I also frequently use a laser thermostat to measure surface temps. Any other recommendations?

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Originally Posted by Pilch

So I'm looking to get a new tank, make it a "Taj Mahal" for him. Is an 85 gal tank (48" x 24" x 18") too big? Looking at a model from Repti-Zoo.

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That's a nice looking enclosure, but PVC works better for ball pythons. Glass tanks bleed heat and humidity, and lack the privacy that most BPs prefer.

Many issues here:

First, are you sure your snake is a male? They don't get as big as a female BP, & 40 gal. tanks are actually not a bad size for one. I know the larger tanks look great, but BPs are not that active- many get freaked out by too much space & won't eat. BPs are ambush-predators & tend to hide most of the time. Is yours a good eater? How long have you actually had him?

While I much prefer glass tanks, I also don't keep BPs (currently). Most BP-owners here prefer the various plastic/PVC type enclosures for holding heat & humidity better. I'm not saying you can't make a glass tank work for a BP, it's just harder, & the bigger the tank, the harder it gets. Be careful what you wish for. ;) Huge tanks take a lot more substrate, & you'll be committing to a much bigger cleaning job too, so your snake stays healthy.

You can use plexi-glass (or foil, or other things) over 95% of screen tops to minimize air-flow & increase humidity, but the bigger the enclosure, the harder it's going to be to keep it warm enough for a BP. All that air space is HARD to heat, & there's the safety aspect of heating too. I'm sorry that your current tank is a problem, as it will take time not only to order a replacement but time (a week at LEAST) to set it up & run it with no snake inside to make sure it's adequately adjusted (temp & humidity). It takes time for a new set-up (with substrate & furnishings) to warm up & become stable & safe for a new occupant. In a week's time, you may then find you need to change things- possibly even order something else, so it's not a small job, getting this right.

Depending on where you are in terms of climate, the temps. you're now achieving in a large tank may be a LOT harder in winter. Have you gone thru a winter yet with this snake & tank? The overall temp. in your room or house matters greatly- if the room is chilly, you may end up needing to insulate the sides, back & bottom of a glass tank to keep the warm end at 90* & the cool end above 77* at all times.

In any event, rushing to put a snake into a new enclosure can be a disaster- it's best to avoid making changes once the snake moves it. Many find it helpful to set up the new place & let your snake visit periodically for a while for exercise, then return home- taking a few weeks for them to get to feel safe & comfortable before actually moving them into the new place to stay. This will help to minimize their stress, & also give you time to make needed adjustments. In the wild, snakes learn their way around for safety from predators & weather- in captivity, can you imagine how freaky that would feel, to have the home you know suddenly disappear & you end up in a place you don't recognize? They don't understand & may refuse to eat for a while.

***All heat devices need to be controlled by thermostats for safety.*** FYI, BPs usually prefer hides that are on the snug side- only ONE doorway that's not too big, & overall the hide isn't much higher than their curled up body. Many snakes do great with the black hides from Reptile Basics- not glamorous, but snakes like them. They come in many sizes, & while your snake grows into a bigger one, you can make it feel cozier by stuffing a rag or paper towels into part of it, then leave that out as he grows. Snakes should have at least 2 equal hides, one on the warm side & the other on the cool side, so they can properly thermoregulate after meals- otherwise they tend to choose the one that feels the safest, even if it's not warm enough for their digestion. Snakes are funny that way. I'm glad you're planning to add a humid hide too, snakes really love those. (they do dry out though, you have to keep remoistening the moss inside)

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Originally Posted by Homebody

That's a nice looking enclosure, but PVC works better for ball pythons. Glass tanks bleed heat and humidity, and lack the privacy that most BPs prefer.

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Thanks for the tip on PVC, I'll look into options. For my current 40-gal glass tank, I do keep it wrapped in fabric for privacy. And maybe that even helps a little with insulation, but that was not my main motivation.

@Bogertophis,

Am I sure my snake is a male? No. I am going on what the breeder said. And I may be rounding up on his size, the length was an estimate, probably more like between 2 and 2.5 ft.

Yes, he's been eating happily every 2 weeks (medium rat). I've had him for over a year, so we've been through one winter, and he was fasting through it (you actually gave me some advice on that), but once spring came around he perked right up. And yes, managing the temperature over the winter was challenging, but the UTH helped a lot, apart from the fact that I installed it wrong. I'm in the southeast US, so we're starting to cool down, and I want to make sure I get it right this winter, which is why I'm looking at the updated tank now. But I'm not in a rush. And the larger tank consideration just seemed right with him pushing his hides and stuff around, but that's why I asked here. If 40-gal is cozy enough for him, maybe I just need to rearrange some. He hardly ever uses the cold-side hide, which is more like you described, open at one end, but it's still a tree-bark/log thing. He climbs on it a good bit when he's out for a stroll at night, but he's rarely under it. His favorite is a half-log on the warm side, which is open at both ends. Maybe I'll remove the cold side hide, replace it with the favorite log, then offer him the new, humid one on the warm side (unless you recommend it be on the cold side). Who knows, that might become his new favorite. And I recognize that too many changes can be upsetting, so I can stagger all that over days or weeks. Also noted about the extra work that comes from a larger tank. I am not sold on that, it just seemed like the right thing to do, but all your advice makes sense. Still learning.

Part of the motivation for the new tank is fixing the UTH and sensor placement. I suppose I can just keep the current tank, and this weekend when I clean it I can razor off the old one (the adhesive is pretty strong in spots) and replace it. I'd be getting a new one, regardless. I can deal with the heat damage on the lid, it's just some deformed plastic that does not affect the integrity of the tank.

FYI, the UTH is on a thermostat, but the heat bulb (ceramic heat emitter) is not. I'll research retrofit thermostat devices for that. Recommendations appreciated.

As always, thanks for the thorough and thoughtful input.

How tall is the tank he's in? Another way of giving more space to explore is by arranging things to simulate "2 stories"- something to think about- to make better use of the space you have, without all the air space in a larger tank that's hard to control (for temps). BPs aren't big climbers but they do enjoy "furniture" that's not too tall, including tunnels/hides.

You might think about finding or making something that that covers (like a massive hide) 2/3 of the floor- something that's about 4-5" tall (to allow for snake + substrate height), & the 1/3 not covered by this can be for the water & cool hide. The 'giant' hide would be over UTH, helping to contain the warmth & be like a cave for him, & the flat top could be for other furnishings, with the warming light overhead about midway (adjust for temps. on cool side). The overhead warmth will actually reach the top "shelf" better anyway.

I've done something similar in the past for a large boa- I built it & she LOVED it- I put a non-slip carpet mat on top (washable!) for traction, as otherwise the top will be slippery (snakes love substrate that gives traction). She spent time in the "cave", but also a lot of time on top, basking comfortably. You wouldn't have to completely enclose that 2/3 warm side, but do something more like a shelf that has cozy hides underneath, & openings on either side for access. (I hope this makes sense?) Anyway, I worry less about appearances for me, & more about what my snakes really enjoy- which can take some creativity. But this is your show...;)

Your snake is still pretty small for a tank larger than 40 gal. right now, IMO. I'm glad you've had him for a while & thru one winter now- but just think, if heat was a challenge with this 40 gal. tank how much harder a huge tank will be to keep warm. Just saying. UTH can only do so much. The most important thing is the snake's health, which depends on heat & humidity (& food). Hiding places are for their sense of security (avoiding stress) which also keeps them healthy. You're on the right track- we all made mistakes when we were new keepers.

What you describe as his cool hide (open ended bark tunnel?) doesn't feel secure to him, that's why he doesn't use it much. I recommend these & they're easy to clean, not expensive, from Reptile Basics: (be sure to measure your snake's coiled body, they come in many sizes)
https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

Bottom line- there's more than one way to do things for snakes- as long as you cover their needs. ;)

It's a 16" tall tank, not super high, but maybe enough to accomplish what you're describing, I'll have to think about it. I'd almost certainly have to raise the heat lamp since he'd be a lot closer when on top (rely more on the UTH for temp regulation under the hide), which is not a big deal. I like the idea (sounds like a weekend project), but it also seems harder to do surface temperature measurements under the 2/3 hide, more where the UTH is. Maybe I could cut an access hole or a small door on hinges where I could temporarily open up and test temps.

Can the cool hide also be the humid one, or should that be on the warm side? Or does it matter?

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Originally Posted by Pilch

It's a 16" tall tank, not super high, but maybe enough to accomplish what you're describing, I'll have to think about it. I'd almost certainly have to raise the heat lamp since he'd be a lot closer when on top (rely more on the UTH for temp regulation under the hide), which is not a big deal. I like the idea (sounds like a weekend project), but it also seems harder to do surface temperature measurements under the 2/3 hide, more where the UTH is. Maybe I could cut an access hole or a small door on hinges where I could temporarily open up and test temps.

Can the cool hide also be the humid one, or should that be on the warm side? Or does it matter?

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Humid hides should be on the cool side, or mid-way at most. The heat (UTH esp.) will dry it out fast.

16" high is plenty- you'd want a platform "hide" that's about 4-5" tall- that leaves you about 11-12" above that. ;) (include space for depth of substrate, & remember BPs like low ceilings)

Heat lamp- is it regulated? You could plug it into a lamp dimmer (aka "rheostat")- any hardware store has them- you can buy an extension cord with a dimmer already installed too, if you want. (or run it with a t-stat)

When I had a large boa, I built my own simple "giant hide" for her- out of pre-sanded light weight pine shelving- your basic rectangle with a tile board top. First though, I coated (waterproofed) the wood- you'll want to do that, otherwise wood absorbs moisture, odors, pathogens & mold. ;) I'm not a carpenter, trust me, but I'm long-time friends w/ a hammer & nails. I make my own tank tops too- not the clothing kind! :rofl: I think snake-keeping is more fun with some creativity & customizing. But like I said, or tried to, you'd want more of a "2nd story" platform, as it would be too big to feel cozy for a BP & you'd want one or more actual hides under it.

As for temps, yes, it can get a little complicated- you'd want this fully set up (furnished) & running for at least a week to fully stabilize before taking temps under hides, etc- then more time to make adjustments.

And for anyone that doesn't know, providing ample hiding places for snakes doesn't mean you'll hardly ever see your pet. Most snakes feel safer & get more active, not less, when they know they have safe places nearby. A "2nd story" for about 2/3 of a tank is a great way to give more room for a snake to move around, rather than just a longer, bigger tank with all the "wasted air space". This "buys time" if you know your pet will out-grow the current arrangement too.

Most of my snakes are rat snakes- they like climbing branches, so taller tanks aren't a waste of space for them at all. Just depends on what species you're keeping. :snake:

Kickstarting this post again. I just measured my snake, and he's around 4.5' long. I didn't expect him to be that long, I was way understimating. It was a rough measurement as I tried to run a cord along him and then measure the cord, but even if I was off by 6", that's still pretty big. I did the math, and he's at least 5 years old, so he's a full adult. So revisiting my tank size question, is 40 gal still a good size, or should I go up?

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Originally Posted by Pilch

Kickstarting this post again. I just measured my snake, and he's around 4.5' long. I didn't expect him to be that long, I was way understimating. It was a rough measurement as I tried to run a cord along him and then measure the cord, but even if I was off by 6", that's still pretty big. I did the math, and he's at least 5 years old, so he's a full adult. So revisiting my tank size question, is 40 gal still a good size, or should I go up?

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I'd say 40 gal. is the minimum- you might want to go up a size (especially since this might even be a female, that will get larger), but stay away from the 50 gal. tanks that are only a foot wide & where the capacity is mostly height, unless you make a false floor as described- that could work pretty well, but still, BPs are heavy bodied snakes & having tank width of at least 16" is preferable.

So if you do go up in size, the 60 gal. tanks are nicer, @ 4' long x 16" wide & about 16" high. HOWEVER: remember that bigger tanks are also harder to heat, especially if your home/room is chilly, either in winter or because of A/C used in summer.

Keep the personality of your snake in mind too- some do prefer cramped quarters & get stressed in big spacious castles. :rolleyes: (And for that type of snake, a split-level floor can help.)

Another thing: if your snake is young (truly about 5 years) he/she will grow their whole life- & BPs can live very long lives- like 30+ years in some cases. So a larger tank might be better for them, but if your snake is actually way up in years already (their growth continues but much slower) a 40 gal. might be just fine. Does that make sense?

Lots to consider- ;) And not to worry, all I ever do is "rough measurements" of my snakes too- no need for "exact".

In order to keep your snake in an environment where it can explore freely and have enough room in general, I would say size up. I would say a good rule of thumb is that the snake should be able to stretch fully across one side of the enclosure in order for it to be considered enough space which means a 4 foot by 2 foot by 2 foot (4x2x2, a 120 gallon) pvc enclosure would be good for your bp, this is a commonly used size and material for bp enclosures. I know people say that ball pythons are pet rocks but they really aren't (though it ultimately depends on the personality of your snake as some can be less or more adventurous), sometimes people say this because they mistake the snake sleeping in the hides (because of the fact that they are nocturnal) as them being lazy and not explorative, they explore and they even climb so giving your snake room for ground exploration and branches for arboreal exploration would be really good for him! Also while it doesn't totally matter in the care or anything, I recommend looking into figuring out if your snake really is a male because it sounds like he is pretty close to being the usual size of a female rather than a male. He could always just be a pretty large male though!
You should send some photos of your snake, we would all love to see him. Speaking of which if you send a photo of the tail end, people on the forum could probably try to figure out if he is a male or female based off of tail length and width, It's not the most accurate way to check the gender of the snake but it does usually help decipher it.

Guys,

I'm working on the new enclosure for my BP based on all the advice above. Also, because I'm relocating the tank to an interior room with almost no natural light (a little bleeds over from an adjacent room), I'm setting up a full spectrum lamp on a programmable dimmer that will simulate sunrise and sunset every day so he can still maintain a sense of night and day. The light will just reflect off the ceiling, so no direct "sun."

I'd love to post some pictures of before and after shots, as BeansTheDerp suggested, but it won't let me directly copy the photos into my post (just converts them into a long string of unicode text), and the only other option I can see is to provide a link to an online photo, which these are not. How do you guys post photos? What am I missing? Seems like this should be straightforward.


Andy

Sounds good. Here ya go: ​https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures

Here are the "before" pics of the old enclosure and my buddy, Angel. Still putting the finishing touches on the new tank, I'll post those in the coming days. (And thanx for the link on how to post photos!)

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7778.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7779.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7782.jpg

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Originally Posted by Pilch

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7778.jpg

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Beautiful!

Your ball python is such a cutie!

Beautiful BP for sure, & when viewed even in semi-natural surroundings, it's easy to see why nature prefers these colors & patterns- great camo. :gj:

Ok, it took longer than I thought, I ran into some equipment problems. But I have the new environment built as of tonight, and it's now acclimating. This is largely based on advice from the folks in this thread, so consider yourselves part of the architecture team. It's 120 gal, PVC, and I built a split level (yes, I water-proofed the wood) on the right side for Angel to climb up on with a hide underneath. The warm side is the right with the double lamp overhead as well as a UTH, and the cool side has another hide that will eventually get sphagnum moss in it as a humid hide. I'm still playing around with orientation and placement. I'll wait until things stabilize to start introducing him a little at a time. I also built a little instrument cluster on the right for the cool side temp and thermostats for the lamp and UTH as well as the humidifier and a little holder for the laser thermometer. I'll eventually mount a webacam on that ledge so I can view the stats remotely and another over the tank to view the inside.


https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7919.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7918.jpg

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https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7902.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7904.jpg

I think he's going to love it, once you get a little more "clutter" in there. Especially that split-level- snakes always love that kind of thing. :gj:

Awesome! That looks so great! Like Bogertophis said I think you should add in some more clutter, like plants and/or branches. I'm sure your snake loves all the space.

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Originally Posted by Pilch

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7918.jpg

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I think that screen top is going to make maintaining heat and humidity a challenge, but it's obvious that you have the skills to meet that challenge. Otherwise, it's a well planned and executed enclosure. Count me impressed.

Is that aspen you're using as substrate? You may want to consider something that holds humidity better.

Oh, and the fogger access hole worries me.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/seUMf7m.jpg
Your bp will attempt to escape through this hole and may injure himself. You need to close it. I'm thinking some type of grommet will do the trick.

Yeah, I’ll be bringing a couple things with him from the old tank, like his rock and another stick. I might look for another plant, too.

Yes, I’ve noted the gap in the access hole, too. I will definitely plug it up. And yes, that’s Aspen. I’m already seeing that it’s a challenge to get the temp and humidity up, even with the double lamp. I’ve temporarily put a towel over about half the top to see if that makes a difference, but I might need to go with some plexiglass or something. Thanks for the tips.

Towels don't prevent air-flow & never work for this purpose- even when they're damp, since the warm air is rising, & it's taking most of the "humidity" from a damp towel up & away from the enclosure. You'll have to cover most* of the screen with something- anything- that prevents air flow. (*leave small gaps for fresh air incoming & outflow)

UPDATE: Plexiglass and grommet installed. Tonight i introduced Angel to the new environ. Need some advice. I know this should be done a little at a time. I was thinking an hour or two in the new spot and then back in the old tank, do this over a few weeks, a little more in the new place each time. I had intended to start that process later as I think Angel is about to shed. But he's been a little... different... lately. He's not seeking solitude and privacy, he's just camping out in the old tank right under the lamp. I think with the colder weather in Georgia, he's fighting for heat (hard to keep that area over mid to high 80s). I wasn't going to start the transition process while his eyes are cloudy, but the behavior lately has me a little concerned. I wanted to get him closer to a more stable, controlled environment. So in he went tonight. And he definitely explored at first, pic below of him taking his first drink. But he's also pretty much camped out under the split level and hasn't come out in a while. Hiding because he's stressed? I'm wondering if I should leave him in there and not force him out. Or should I not keep him stressed in a new environment for too long, lift up the platform, and get him back to his old home, which may be substandard, temperature-wise. I do recall that he has had to transition a couple times in life abruptly (not ideal), but he was also younger. Advice?

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/img_7934.jpg

I would think that if you keep moving him from enclosure to enclosure you might stress him out with the moving, I haven't heard of people slowly "transitioning" them. I would just give him some time. Right now he might be kind of confused about the new place but that might be because he needs time to explore. If you do feel like it might be too out in the open then I would add some more decor/clutter to make him feel better, but I think he will be fine once he gets used to the new enclosure. Like I said I have never heard of people transitioning their snakes but if that is something that people are doing now then alright!
One way you could try to make him more comfortable in there is by using something in the tank from the old one, so that the smell is familiar and "safer".

You know your snake better than we do, but if he's going into shed, that aspen won't help the humidity.

Hiding out in the new place should not surprise you- he's bound to feel less secure there, & if you're having difficulty keeping him warm enough, it's also no surprise that he's hanging out in the open under the warm light in his old home, where he's obviously more relaxed & is choosing warmth over "security" for now.

How warm is it under the "split level"? If he's warm enough there (roughly equal to his old-home's basking place that he's been favoring) it's probably fine to leave him where he is, in the new place...but it all comes down to the temperature. You said he's wanting the warmth right now, & but it's also typical for snakes going into shed to choose security (hiding) & unless he's still digesting right now, snakes usually prefer being in the cooler hide at this time. So, when was he last fed? See, you want answers but you're leaving out some details -or expecting us to search for them? ;)

If he's warm enough in the new place, & seems to like hiding there, & really is going into shed- I'd probably leave him be- but give him a humid hide, maybe midway (not totally in the coolest area). Beans has a point- if he's acting a little odd right now, then maybe the stress of going back & forth isn't the best thing for him. Not all snakes are the same, & like I said, you know him better than we do, so you have to learn to trust your hunches too.

He last ate in early November. We tried to feed him about a couple weeks ago, and he was NOT interested. And I'm not sure he'd be interested right now given that he's near shedding. Temps under the split level are comparable to his old tank on the "hot" end, around mid 80s. I've been ramping up the UTH (the UTH probe under the PVC floor actually measures 102-103), but it's hard to punch through the floor + 1" of aspen. Over the split level, it's 89 - 91 on the surface via laser thermometer (nearby ambient probe measures 80).

FWIW, the humidity has been pretty consistent in the new tank between 50% and 60%, although in his old tank I was driving it up to 70% temporarily knowing he was going into a shed. If I keep him in the new tank, maybe I kick that up to 70% -- and provide the sphagnum moss moist hide (right now it's just sitting over the dry aspen).

Hiding definitely does not surprise me, but I could have sworn I read either in this forum or in another online article that gradual changes were better than abrupt ones, but going back and searching I can't find the references now (maybe I misread something?). This is certainly the most drastic change he's undergone since I've had him in the last 2 years. I think based on initial reactions, I'll a) keep him in the new space, b) transition some of his old "clutter," and c) kick up the humidity levels and let him shed in the new environ. In retrospect, back and forth between tanks maybe seems like a lot of change. And once he sheds, I may try to feed him again, but this time last year, he went for 3.5 - 4 months without eating, so I won't freak out if he still doesn't go for it.

I definitely feel better about the heat levels in the new tank, I'm thinking that's healthier for him. But that's why I'm checking in with you guys.

You really don't want more than 1/2" of substrate over UTH. It becomes "insulation", preventing the UTH heat from rising into the enclosure where it's needed. And it can also cause the UTH to overheat & malfunction- especially if you also failed to ventilate a little under the enclosure/tank, as the manufacturers generally instruct.

You need to assume that your snake (any snake) may dig down & contact the actual floor, so you want to make sure it's not too hot- that's how snakes get burned. They don't realize damage & remain in place too long. I'm having trouble telling if what you're describing in the new "split-level" is safe or not for him. You supposed to have the t-stat probe outside the enclosure, sandwiched between the glass/or whatever the floor is made of, & the actual UTH. It doesn't matter much what the t-stat is reading, what's important (essential) is that where the snake WILL contact the floor inside the enclosure is not over 90* (or by very little), because sooner or later, they WILL dig around & contact that- & if it's too hot, they get injured. So you need to actually push the substrate away to take the floor temperature, then put it back (not too deep) after you're sure that the temp. is safe.

So off-hand, I'd suggest moving him back to his old home for now IF you need to make some more adjustments. Like I said, I'm not totally sure what you meant. If he's going into shed (& he's obviously not digesting either) he's mostly going to be laying low right now anyway. If he seems comfortable, this may work out just fine to leave him be.

There's no hard & fast rule about slowly transitioning a snake to a new enclosure (& most people never think of doing it), but it makes sense to do so if at all possible, knowing that snakes keep searching for their old home for a while, & usually refuse to eat as a result. Confusion is stressful for them, & they don't understand where the world they knew just disappeared to. But if your guy is drinking water & seems comfortable in the split-level, I'd leave him there, as long as you don't need to adjust things for healthy & safety, etc. (as discussed above) So again, it's up to you.

Raising the humidity some, & adding some of his familiar furnishings sounds good- :gj:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

You really don't want more than 1/2" of substrate over UTH. It becomes "insulation", preventing the UTH heat from rising into the enclosure where it's needed. And it can also cause the UTH to overheat & malfunction- especially if you also failed to ventilate a little under the enclosure/tank, as the manufacturers generally instruct.

You need to assume that your snake (any snake) may dig down & contact the actual floor, so you want to make sure it's not too hot- that's how snakes get burned. They don't realize damage & remain in place too long. I'm having trouble telling if what you're describing in the new "split-level" is safe or not for him. You supposed to have the t-stat probe outside the enclosure, sandwiched between the glass/or whatever the floor is made of, & the actual UTH. It doesn't matter much what the t-stat is reading, what's important (essential) is that where the snake WILL contact the floor inside the enclosure is not over 90* (or by very little), because sooner or later, they WILL dig around & contact that- & if it's too hot, they get injured. So you need to actually push the substrate away to take the floor temperature, then put it back (not too deep) after you're sure that the temp. is safe.

So off-hand, I'd suggest moving him back to his old home for now IF you need to make some more adjustments. Like I said, I'm not totally sure what you meant. If he's going into shed (& he's obviously not digesting either) he's mostly going to be laying low right now anyway. If he seems comfortable, this may work out just fine to leave him be.

There's no hard & fast rule about slowly transitioning a snake to a new enclosure (& most people never think of doing it), but it makes sense to do so if at all possible, knowing that snakes keep searching for their old home for a while, & usually refuse to eat as a result. Confusion is stressful for them, & they don't understand where the world they knew just disappeared to. But if your guy is drinking water & seems comfortable in the split-level, I'd leave him there, as long as you don't need to adjust things for healthy & safety, etc. (as discussed above) So again, it's up to you.

Raising the humidity some, & adding some of his familiar furnishings sounds good- :gj:

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The probe is between the UTH pad and the bottom of the tank, which is now PVC (old tank was glass). I read somewhere that 1" was the recommended depth of aspen substrate, but I am good with cutting that down to 1/2" on the next tank cleaning and adjusting the thermostat on the UTH -- that makes sense with what I've observed. I am diligent about measuring with a laser thermometer at the surface, I just have to stretch under the split-level platform now to get a reading. I've definitely seen in the old tank where he dug down and exposed the glass (now PVC), so that is noted.

Thank you for the guidance, I hope this is a great move for Angel. More than anything, I want him to be happy and to thrive.

Me too (want him to be happy & thrive), I think you've got this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pilch

Hiding definitely does not surprise me, but I could have sworn I read either in this forum or in another online article that gradual changes were better than abrupt ones, but going back and searching I can't find the references now (maybe I misread something?).

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I've seen other keepers slowly transition their snakes from one enclosure to another is two different ways. Put the old enclosure inside the new enclosure and leave the door to the old enclosure open. The snake will come out and explore the new enclosure when it's ready. Once it's clear that the snake is comfortable in the new space, you can remove the old enclosure.

The other way is to place the snake in the new enclosure for gradually longer periods of time until the snake seems comfortable there. You want to time these exposure sessions for when your snake wants out of its old enclosure. My Children's python will surf the glass pushing to get out. I think most snakes do something similar. When you see this behavior, it's time for an exposure session. Let him explore the new enclosure at least until he settles down. Gradually, increase the length of the sessions until your snake seems comfortable there.

I think it's a nice thing to do, if you can. I don't know that it's the right thing for you to do. You have to weigh how suitable the old enclosure is, how ready the new enclosure is, and how timid your snake is. You sound like you have a pretty good idea what you're doing, so I'm confident that whatever call you make will work out fine. Good luck.

First shed in the new enclosure went almost perfect! Again, I appreciate everyone's input.

Awesome! :gj: