Heating Glass tank

Hey everyone I’m a new BP owner and have a question about heating. I currently have a 60 watt ceramic heater attached to a zoo med thermostat. I also have a UTH but the thermostat only has one input so I usually run the heater. Problem is I can’t get it to go over 84-85 in the day and at night it also drops down to 70. Which is too low for my anxiety lol. Attached pictures of enclosure. any ideas on how to heat better? Can I wrap the lamp in hvac tape or is that a fire hazard? Any help is appreciated greatly. ��

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/blob...6-df6f8cde411e

Can’t figure out how to get images on here from iPhone. I suck w technology. Any help.

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Originally Posted by Tommy079

Can’t figure out how to get images on here from iPhone. I suck w technology. Any help.

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Many members use the Tapatalk app. I use Imgur. This link will give you other options: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures.

Yes, 70 at night is too low- you want about 75* at least, on the "cool" side, & about 88* at the warmest (& that's "24/7").

How big is the UTH compared to the floor space it's under? Might need a larger one (but not over half the floor)but it must always be controlled by a thermostat- & pls double check the actual temperature IN the tank & under substrate (where the snake can get to by pushing away the substrate). If substrate is too deep, it becomes "insulation" (not allowing enough heat to rise into the tank) so the substrate should always be shallow over the UTH. EVERY heat option MUST be controlled by a thermostat- it sounds like you need at least one more- ;)

While UTH helps to provide needed warmth, it is usually NOT be enough to provide adequate heat both day & night for a BP. It also depends on how cool the room is where the tank is located- & glass tanks have trouble holding in warmth, so a good idea might be to insulate the sides & back with something** as that may help. (** foam-core poster board, cork tiles, corrugated cardboard, styrofoam sheet cut to fit, carpet tiles, etc. etc. -many things will work & help keep in warmth.) If you'd rather not see the "insulation", you can tape on some scenery first- & the insulation behind it. :cool:

DO NOT "wrap the lamp in...tape" or anything else- yes, that's a fire hazard! :O And heat sources not controlled by t-stat are an accident waiting to happen- pls don't "cook your snake"!

Yes, it would help us to see your set-up... https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures

How long have you had the snake & is he eating?

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Originally Posted by Tommy079

Any ideas on how to heat better?https://ball-pythons.net/forums/blob...6-df6f8cde411e

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There are a few things you can do.

1. Cover the screen lid. Aluminum heat tape works well for this.
2. Insulate the sides. Foam poster board works well.
3. Add the UTH, once you get another thermostat to regulate it.

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This is my girl Ona


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Originally Posted by Homebody

There are a few things you can do.

1. Cover the screen lid. Aluminum heat tape works well for this...

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TO the OP: Yes, restricting the overall airflow will help keep the heat IN the tank, but this is safer to test without your snake in residence- before they actually move in. So only make these changes while you're right there, at home all day, to oversee the temperatures in the tank, as they won't increase all at once but gradually, & you don't want to come home to find your snake expired from excess heat or with permanent neurological damage. OK?

And btw, where is your probe that connects to the t-stat? Another reason this is best tested out before you have the snake is that constant checking is disruptive & a bit stressful for your snake- but you're sorta stuck with that now, so do the best you can.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

[/LIST]


TO the OP: Yes, restricting the overall airflow will help keep the heat IN the tank, but this is safer to test without your snake in residence- before they actually move in. So only make these changes while you're right there, at home all day, to oversee the temperatures in the tank, as they won't increase all at once but gradually, & you don't want to come home to find your snake expired from excess heat or with permanent neurological damage. OK?

And btw, where is your probe that connects to the t-stat? Another reason this is best tested out before you have the snake is that constant checking is disruptive & a bit stressful for your snake- but you're sorta stuck with that now, so do the best you can.

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The probe is on the right side of the enclosure on the wall opposite of the UTH and I’m home most of the time I’ve been checking her every 10 min I have hella anxiety when it comes to her comfort. You can see it under the digital thermometer display in the second photo


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Yes, 70 at night is too low- you want about 75* at least, on the "cool" side, & about 88* at the warmest (& that's "24/7").

How big is the UTH compared to the floor space it's under? Might need a larger one (but not over half the floor)but it must always be controlled by a thermostat- & pls double check the actual temperature IN the tank & under substrate (where the snake can get to by pushing away the substrate). If substrate is too deep, it becomes "insulation" (not allowing enough heat to rise into the tank) so the substrate should always be shallow over the UTH. EVERY heat option MUST be controlled by a thermostat- it sounds like you need at least one more- ;)

While UTH helps to provide needed warmth, it is usually NOT be enough to provide adequate heat both day & night for a BP. It also depends on how cool the room is where the tank is located- & glass tanks have trouble holding in warmth, so a good idea might be to insulate the sides & back with something** as that may help. (** foam-core poster board, cork tiles, corrugated cardboard, styrofoam sheet cut to fit, carpet tiles, etc. etc. -many things will work & help keep in warmth.) If you'd rather not see the "insulation", you can tape on some scenery first- & the insulation behind it. :cool:

DO NOT "wrap the lamp in...tape" or anything else- yes, that's a fire hazard! :O And heat sources not controlled by t-stat are an accident waiting to happen- pls don't "cook your snake"!

Yes, it would help us to see your set-up... https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures

How long have you had the snake & is he eating?

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Almost a month. And yes she eats 2 adult feeder mice every 7-10 days. She approx 7 months old. Thank you for the tips too.


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That's great that she's eating so well & in only a months time. :gj: That might actually be a little too much food for her- usually one item every 7 days is better, but I'm not seeing your snake in a way that I can tell her body condition. This may help: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...f42b352b68.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...f42b352b68.jpg


So just keep in mind that everyone's set-up is a little different- we can offer suggestions but for example, if your room/house is colder, then our suggestions may need to be modified for your exact set-up. We don't all use the same amount of home heating or A/C, or live in the same climate.

And btw- :welcome:

Do you have an infrared point thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the glass over the UTH?

Something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/121-in...ter-63985.html

No I don’t went to Home Depot to get one and they were all too pricey ima get this one or one of Amazon.


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I have my boa in a glass tank. I have foam poster board around three sides and on the top, a UTH (on a thermostat, of course), and a heat lamp on a rheostat, and have no problems maintaining temps in the tank. Spotticus is 5 years old now and I've never had any problems with him (except when he strikes at his mouse and misses and gets my hand instead, lol. :rolleyes: