Still not eating

So my male/female still won’t eat temps humidity are hundred percent fine after me worrying thinking they could have mites I added predatory mites into the enclosure so I went to the pet shop today and asked for male rats heated up the rat to 39c to make sure it was up to temp by the I offered it to my snake and they looked really interested then nothing once I removed the rat they were looking around and then laid as if waiting for food so I tried again heated up again and the same thing tounge flicking seemed interested no strike I’ve left it in the enclosure but from past times doing this they don’t eat it this weeks it’s coming up to a month since they ate it took them 3 weeks to poop after last meal the prey size is a little smaller than thickness of snakes body does anyone have any suggestions?


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I've heard some people use hair dryers to heat up the rodent.
The smell helps with the snakes appetite, Make sure you do it in the snake room.

I've never tried this out, Just heard It helped other people.

How old Is your BP? Sometimes adults go on fasts for no reason, I wouldn't worry unless they are losing lots of weight OR If they're a juvenile.

This is the one sold to you as a year and a half male?

Occasionally males will go on food strikes, but your issue may be the size of the enclosure maybe? I would try moving him from a big cage to a tub for a little but until you get the hang of him eating regularly then try introducing him to the larger cage at a later time. Ball pythons are shy ambush hunters so cages with a lot of space sometimes will stress them out until they get used to everything.
If you don't want to try a smaller cage, I would try putting some crumpled newspaper or sphagnum moss into the hides so they feel more tight fitting. These guys really like to scrunch up in tiny places to feel safe. When they're comfortable, they'll eat.

Also try to keep from handling him as much as possible. You need to get him eating well for you before taking him out and possibly stressing him out more.

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Originally Posted by Bluebell_1990

So my male/female still won’t eat temps humidity are hundred percent fine after me worrying thinking they could have mites I added predatory mites into the enclosure so I went to the pet shop today and asked for male rats heated up the rat to 39c to make sure it was up to temp by the I offered it to my snake and they looked really interested then nothing once I removed the rat they were looking around and then laid as if waiting for food so I tried again heated up again and the same thing tounge flicking seemed interested no strike I’ve left it in the enclosure but from past times doing this they don’t eat it this weeks it’s coming up to a month since they ate it took them 3 weeks to poop after last meal the prey size is a little smaller than thickness of snakes body does anyone have any suggestions?


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Hi

As someone already mentioned it may just need a little help to get it feeding

I’ve sent you the details of the hairdryer method ..by PM


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Originally Posted by Ruby

How old Is your BP? Sometimes adults go on fasts for no reason, I wouldn't worry unless they are losing lots of weight OR If they're a juvenile.

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I have done the hair dryer method thinking it would help but didn’t seem to make a difference unfortunately


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Decided to put the hairdryer method here as well for anyone reading in the future

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My method is to thaw the mouse/ rat in the same room - near the snake viv during the day , then feed in the evening- wait until it’s dark / dim light ...

I wait until the snake is well settled under a hide , open the glass door , using tongs give the mouse/rat a good blast with a hairdryer ( plugged in near the viv ) then immediately dangle the mouse in front of the hide entrance .

If there’s no strike simply reheat with the hairdryer and again dangle it instantly whilst it’s still warm ... in the odd case you may have to repeat the process 5 or 6 times but in my experience it rarely fails .. .

Follow the method closely and it works 90%+ of the time I’d say - the other 10% of the time I’d put down to the snakes being in shed mode and simply not interested in food .


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Originally Posted by Armiyana

This is the one sold to you as a year and a half male?

Occasionally males will go on food strikes, but your issue may be the size of the enclosure maybe? I would try moving him from a big cage to a tub for a little but until you get the hang of him eating regularly then try introducing him to the larger cage at a later time. Ball pythons are shy ambush hunters so cages with a lot of space sometimes will stress them out until they get used to everything.
If you don't want to try a smaller cage, I would try putting some crumpled newspaper or sphagnum moss into the hides so they feel more tight fitting. These guys really like to scrunch up in tiny places to feel safe. When they're comfortable, they'll eat.

Also try to keep from handling him as much as possible. You need to get him eating well for you before taking him out and possibly stressing him out more.

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Hi so they were sold as male 1 and half year old yeh now thinking possibly female as they grow I have him/her in a tub for now for that reason to get them on a regular feeding before moving them to bigger tank I’ve give them cave hides that arnt too small but tight fitting to make them feel safe I havnt properly handled them yet because they arnt on regular feeding I’ve let them come out and explore on their on accord once before but I had to pick up and redirect from wires that’s really the only handling I’ve done with them they arnt bothered at all about my hands being near them but like you said I don’t want to be handling properly just yet….he/she last shed just over 4 weeks ago so very near due they arnt in blue as of yet but hiding a lot recently normally rather active exploring on a night very curious wanting to be out today I added moss to humid hide incase it is shedding


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How long have you had this snake? Ball pythons are on the shy end of the temperament scale and these snakes are not big fans of change. At over a year old, they may need several weeks or even a few months to decide they feel comfortable enough to eat after being introduced to a new home.

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

How long have you had this snake? Ball pythons are on the shy end of the temperament scale and these snakes are not big fans of change. At over a year old, they may need several weeks or even a few months to decide they feel comfortable enough to eat after being introduced to a new home.

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That’s a very good point


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Originally Posted by Caitlin

How long have you had this snake? Ball pythons are on the shy end of the temperament scale and these snakes are not big fans of change. At over a year old, they may need several weeks or even a few months to decide they feel comfortable enough to eat after being introduced to a new home.

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I’ve had them over a month now they’ve taken from me Once properly eaten while left in the enclosure and struck just last week but hit hide instead of rat and wouldn’t try again everytime they have eaten it’s been a white and brown male rat they are very curious I’m not pushing handling incase it’s just a case of settling in they’ve been out of enclosure once I let them come out themselves I did see if they wanted to come onto my hand and they did they changed mind I didn’t pick them up until I had to redirect from wires and when I put them back the handling side of things I don’t mind if it takes months aslong as they are happy and healthy that’s all I’m bothered about they are very curious usually if I open the tub peaking their little head out of hide to see what I’m doing haha if they are out of the hide and I’m in the room they happily will carry on exploring around tub tounge flicking but they are due shed any minute they are hiding a lot so I’m just seeing if it’s that I’m still going to try feed them next week unless they go into blue


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It sounds like you are on the right track with the way you are dealing with this. One or two months is nothing in Ball python time - just be patient, continue to be very conservative with handling if you handle at all, keep offering once a week or so, and hang in there. I think things will work out fine but you can always get help and support here.

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Originally Posted by Bluebell_1990

I’ve had them over a month now they’ve taken from me Once properly eaten while left in the enclosure and struck just last week but hit hide instead of rat and wouldn’t try again...

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I've seen snakes do things like that before- miss the food & hit something hard (ouch!) & then temporarily lose their confidence. In their mind, I think they think the prey fought back, lol.

BPs aren't the most aggressive (confident) snakes to begin with, which is why you need to minimize distractions & things that may go wrong when feeding them. I'd continue to avoid any handling & interactions- they need to focus on "being snakes". Hang in there.

Most of my Royals are albinos and their eyesight seems to be pitifully poor .. it makes you wonder how Royals even survive in the wild :)


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Most of my Royals are albinos and their eyesight seems to be pitifully poor .. it makes you wonder how Royals even survive in the wild :)


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Well, albinos generally don't survive in the wild. The so-called "normal" color & pattern BP is what actually survives the best- so says natural selection, and when humans keep breeding for anything BUT "normal", I think you have to expect problems, subtle or otherwise.

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

It sounds like you are on the right track with the way you are dealing with this. One or two months is nothing in Ball python time - just be patient, continue to be very conservative with handling if you handle at all, keep offering once a week or so, and hang in there. I think things will work out fine but you can always get help and support here.

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Thankyou!! I think because they are my first python sometimes I just overthink and feel I’m doing the wrong thing I just want them to feel happy and secure I’m more than willing to give them that time to adjust I’d much rather go at their pace


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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I've seen snakes do things like that before- miss the food & hit something hard (ouch!) & then temporarily lose their confidence. In their mind, I think they think the prey fought back, lol.

BPs aren't the most aggressive (confident) snakes to begin with, which is why you need to minimize distractions & things that may go wrong when feeding them. I'd continue to avoid any handling & interactions- they need to focus on "being snakes". Hang in there.

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I felt awful luckily it was the humid hide that’s plastic and not one of their rock ones :0 awwwwww haha
Next week I’m going to just put a lamp on with just enough light so I can see and see if that helps im not going to try handling or moving them into bigger enclosure until they are on regular feeding routine just means I have longer to get more goodies for the tank! :D


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Well, albinos generally don't survive in the wild. The so-called "normal" color & pattern BP is what actually survives the best- so says natural selection, and when humans keep breeding for anything BUT "normal", I think you have to expect problems, subtle or otherwise.

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All my Royals over the years have had poor eyesight and regularly missed with strikes
Inc normals and about 15 different morphs


When I see Corn snakes and Rat snakes excitedly slide OVER the mouse / rat as they try and locate their food I just wonder how they manage with live , elusive critters

:)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

All my Royals over the years have had poor eyesight and regularly missed with strikes
Inc normals and about 15 different morphs


When I see Corn snakes and Rat snakes excitedly slide OVER the mouse / rat as they try and locate their food I just wonder how they manage with live , elusive critters

:)


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Oh, I know- I've wondered for many years how snakes manage to catch food in the wild when they sometimes act so blind & clueless even when eating pre-killed that are handed to them. :D

I suppose being a LOT hungrier (in the wild) helps, as does actually making the kill- they get tactile clues while hanging on to prey that helps them find the head & all that. :confusd:

Let's face it- if snakes could drive, they'd ALL qualify for a handicapped parking placard. :rolleyes:

My little corn always strikes once then I have to place it down for him to eat it he won’t strike and wrap at all I’ve tried he definitely isn’t built for the wild at all haha


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