BP not Eating

This is my 1st(maybe last) BP, i have had her for 5 weeks and she has not eaten once. I have researched a lot over the past 2 weeks, i have tried frozen mice and rats and live rats too, recommended by Wilbanks, and still nothing. She has striked at me 2 times when i have walked by her tank, thats it, she has shown no interest anytime i have tried to feed her. I have held her only once as not trying to stress her, as soon as i touch her, she shakes for a second. Something is not right, should i take her to the Vet? I am becoming stressed with worry, this isn't what i expected, i guess i can try live feeding again, if that don work i think i will look for a place to donate her too, I clearly have failed so far, any suggestions? Thx

First off, for us to diagnose what's going on, it would help to see photos of your set-up, or at the very least, a complete description of her home, including temperatures, humidity, hides, type & SIZE of enclosure (tank means glass, right?), substrate, t-stat & type(s) of heat supplied? etc. It's all relevant.

I'm glad you haven't been handling her, that's a "no-no" until they're feeding- preferably at least 3 times at normal intervals, because eating is the most important thing, & the stress of handling can make a snake refuse food, to their detriment. (It doesn't count if they refuse food because they're in a shedding cycle, btw- that's a time most snakes normally refuse food, & not to worry.)

This might help: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures

Also, have you read thru this one? I know you're still finding your way around here-
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101

If your BP is being kept in a glass tank, the problem is very likely to be stress from a lack of "security"- most snakes are quite shy, especially when young, as many things in nature actually prey ON them. Many here prefer to use tubs for young BPs, but tanks can be made to work IF you get all the husbandry issues right- ie. make it feel secure enough for your BP to feel safe.

The right temperatures are also essential- if it's too cool, your snake will not eat, but if it's too hot, your snake can be injured or worse- so a thermostat on your heat source(s) is ESSENTIAL. BPs are fairly passive "ambush predators", not aggressive & active hunters of prey. It also matters a great deal HOW* you offer them prey, whether live or f/t (frozen-thawed) or f/k (fresh-killed). *We have a lot more tips about that. They're also more nocturnal, so you want to offer prey in the evenings- not under bright lighting either. And use feeding tongs- not your hands. ;) When they do grab prey, they aim for the biggest heat signature, even if it's you, lol.


:welcome: And please don't give up...I know how frustrating this can be...but it's just a matter of knowing more about your choice of snake. We can help.

(Is this your first snake of any kind?)

Age and weight would be helpful as well.

If an older and established BP, getting them feeding is less of an immediate concern. If a young BP - time is ticking and you need to get him/her eating ASAP.

Please provide the above and what Bogertophis asked for and we should be able to help you.

If you are not handling the snake, then likely husbandry is the issue. Part of husbandry would include where the tank is located and type of tank. If it's glass and in a higher traffic area, that's an issue right there.

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

...She has striked at me 2 times when i have walked by her tank, thats it, she has shown no interest anytime i have tried to feed her...

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So, just so you know, that wasn't about wanting you for dinner. ;) That was most likely fear, though some hungry snakes will also strike out at motion nearby. You should understand that your BP doesn't identify you visually through glass or plexi, so even if you were already long-term pals, you might have your BP (or most any snake) behave in a similar manner. Don't take it personally. Once they get your scent & familiar touch (after you're better acquainted) they remember you & learn to feel safe- it just doesn't happen thru glass, using vision alone.

BPs rely on vision mostly for motion, which is either prey or predator to them- we're pretty big, so mostly we register as "predator", which results in fear for a new snake not yet "settled in" (ie. not yet feeling comfortable enough to eat, relax & feel safe). Most snakes aren't logical though, as far as knowing what size prey they need to be able to swallow it- it's mostly a matter of "trial & error".

BPs have heat-sensing pits, but since we're warm just like their prey it doesn't narrow it down much. Most snakes don't have heat-sensing pits, but rely more on scent & even touch to identify things.

Since you seem to be using a glass tank (& don't get me wrong, I'm one of those that prefers glass tanks), I'm pretty sure that the reason your snake isn't eating for you comes down to fear- she feels insecure & there's plenty you can do to fix this. And plenty of little things you might have been doing wrong, like trying to feed too often- that just stressed her further.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Since you seem to be using a glass tank (& don't get me wrong, I'm one of those that prefers glass tanks), I'm pretty sure that the reason your snake isn't eating for you comes down to fear- she feels insecure & there's plenty you can do to fix this. And plenty of little things you might have been doing wrong, like trying to feed too often- that just stressed her further.

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I'll echo what everyone else has said especially what Bogertophis said above. I used a glass tank for me BP for almost a year, and still use glass enclosures for other snakes and lizards. Pictures or at least a description of your set up would help us try to give you a better idea of what your problem may be. Have you blocked off three sides? Is your enclosure in a an area of your house that has heavy foot traffic? Is it in a room where you're constantly up moving around? Remember, we're just big predators to a little BP. As has been said many times before, the world is a scary place when you're a noodle with a head.

Also you mentioned you tried live feeding on the advice of Wilbanks, did you also get your BP from Wilbanks? I know Mike doesn't ship snakes until they're eating consistently for him, so if you did purchase from him I doubt, not saying something isn't wrong health wise, but I doubt there's anything wrong with your snake. I'd look at husbandry first before putting it through the stress of a vet visit.

Details about Tank, 20 gal top opening tank, sides and back covered, Tank is in far back bedroom, no traffic except me. Cage set up, 1 large half log hide in middle with fake plant vines, large water dish in cool end. Average temperature in hot end between 85-90 degrees, humidity averages between 35-50%. Floor covered with Loose Coconut fiber on bottom with Natural Cypress Mulch on top. Light brown Terrarium Moss in corners and sides. For water i use Ice Mountain bottled. As for snake, Black Pastel female from Wilbanks reptiles, weight at purchase, 250g. Thx

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Details about Tank, 20 gal top opening tank, sides and back covered, Tank is in far back bedroom, no traffic except me. Cage set up, 1 large half log hide in middle with fake plant vines, large water dish in cool end. Average temperature in hot end between 85-90 degrees, humidity averages between 35-50%. Floor covered with Loose Coconut fiber on bottom with Natural Cypress Mulch on top. Light brown Terrarium Moss in corners and sides. For water i use Ice Mountain bottled. As for snake, Black Pastel female from Wilbanks reptiles, weight at purchase, 250g. Thx

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Half log 'hides' are not adequate hides at all- they're nice cage furniture, but they don't offer what your BP needs- a real sense of security. Just as an example [ie. NOT a brand endorsement, though these are just fine, but similar ones available at beanfarm.com & other sources too] you want something like this: https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

They come in different sizes- pick the size your snake will fit fairly snugly into- BPs in the wild live in rock piles & such- they like to feel some "back pressure"- they want only one doorway that's JUST big enough for them to go thru after a meal is preferred.

Also: you need at least TWO equal hides, one on the cool side, & one on the warm side, because snakes will nearly always choose a sense of security over the proper temperature, so if their only hide is too cool for digestion, let's say, you may have a snake regurgitating their undigested dinner, or refusing to eat at all, just like yours is doing; even though heat is supplied, if they can't use it while feeling safe (in a proper hide) they're not going to thrive & digest well.

Snakes need to thermoregulate at all times, so if they don't have an unheated hide too, they'll probably end up dehydrated & burning thru more food & losing weight, because their metabolism is determined by their temperatures, & snakes are not designed to stay at the highest temperatures all the time either. Two or more hides (the right kind) are just essential at all times.

Also, if you have room, a third hide -a "humid hide" with damp moss etc.- is also a very helpful item to offer for good sheds & general comfort options. Your humidity is a bit too low- you want 50-60% on average, & a bit higher during shed.

The sooner you fix the "hide" situation, the faster your snake will finally feel safe enough to settle in & eat. ;)

Since you're using a tank, FYI you'll need to cover* most of the screen top to cut down on air-flow- that's why the humidity is so low. If you have lots of room, putting the water bowl nearer to heat will raise the humidity a bit thru increased evaporation. The 2 hides are far more important than a large water bowl- for that matter, since snakes seldom soak, a humid hide is a better option too, with a smaller water bowl just for drinking.

*Some people use a piece of plexi, some use foil- many things work- just anything that air can't go thru. Leave gaps, of course, for some circulation- just not the whole screen top- not for a BP, anyway. Other snakes need lots of air circulation, but BPs need the humidity more.

You're almost "there"- you just need a few tweaks to get this right. :snake:

If i am going to try a small tote for feeding again. Do i put the snake in the tote and then wait a week before i try live feeding?

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

If i am going to try a small tote for feeding again. Do i put the snake in the tote and then wait a week before i try live feeding?

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:confusd:

You're talking about feeding your snake in a 'side' container? Nope, don't do that. Shy snakes won't eat that way- not with you handling them first. The only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a predator about to EAT them. Handling to move the snake will destroy their appetite. And a less-shy snake that's pumped up for food will be biting you, either on the way to the tote, or when you try to put them back 'home'- they can stay in "feed mode" for hours to a day or longer. Just don't do that...feed your snake IN his home where he feels safe. Put his needs front & center if you expect him to eat & thrive.

Ok, i will work on it...what about a different tote just for feeding? I would still have to pick up the snake before feeding in the tote. That's not good either???

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Ok, i will work on it...what about a different tote just for feeding? I would still have to pick up the snake before feeding in the tote. That's not good either???

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:colbert: Nope, not if you want your snake to eat.

Ok, i didn't read your next comment. Disnreguard my last comment. Thx again

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Ok, i will work on it...what about a different tote just for feeding? I would still have to pick up the snake before feeding in the tote. That's not good either???

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It's best to feed snakes in their home enclosure where they feel safe and secure. Especially so for ambushing species such as ball pythons (they choose a designated spot and wait for prey to pass by instead of chasing them down). Moving them to a separate area to feed can potentially stress them out. And before you ask, no, feeding in the home enclosure doesn't cause biting, that's a misunderstood myth. As long as your hands don't smell like rodents it won't mistake you for food. You can also increase the snake's sense of ease around you further for handling by doing "tap training."

An easy way to do this is to lightly tap its hide when you want to hold it or otherwise do things other than feeding (such as maintenance). Your snake should start to understand that, when you're going into its enclosure and do the tapping, it means it's not meal time.

...And Boger already answered about that in detail. My bad. :ohmygod:

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Ok, i didn't read your next comment. Disnreguard my last comment. Thx again

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BTW, from everything you've posted about him, I don't think a vet visit would be of any help- this is very likely a husbandry issue that's entirely fixable by you. In fact, vet visits add a lot of stress, so it can actually be counter-productive for a fearful snake, which yours is.

Fix his home, & don't handle him until he has eaten at least 3 times at reasonable intervals without refusals (unless in shed- snakes normally refuse food when in shed cycle). Being handled inhibits a snake's appetite- so right now, he's in fear mode.

And since he came from a breeder, the other thing that would have helped him to make a smooth transition for you is IF you had duplicated exactly how he was kept by the breeder, instead of planting him in a 20L tank, especially one without proper 'hides'. Most likely Wilbanks kept him in a much smaller, cozier tub.

But avoid making lots of changes now- other than adding hides- he just wants to feel safe where he is & it's your job to help him do that. Snakes learn their way around, & to survive in the wild, they need to know where to hide for safety from predators & bad weather. How would YOU feel if one day you woke up in a completely alien environment with no explanation? And there was this creature that kept staring at you, & it's at least 100 times bigger than you...?

Ive had two ball pythons not eat for months. It is fine so long as the snake does not look too skinny. Post a pic of your snake lets have a look. Otherwise if it gets too skinny I have a few youtube videos you can watch on how to force feed ;)

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Originally Posted by JacksReptiles

Ive had two ball pythons not eat for months. It is fine so long as the snake does not look too skinny. Post a pic of your snake lets have a look. Otherwise if it gets too skinny I have a few youtube videos you can watch on how to force feed ;)

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When the OP is clearly doing things wrong as to easily fixed husbandry issues (Hides & trying to feed outside the snake's home- in a tote) this (force-feeding!) is not a good direction to lead them. And this is a young BP from a reputable dealer that clearly should be eating, if only the basic issues are fixed. Please read the whole thread before advising. ;) It's neither normal nor "fine" for a young BP to skip meals for months.

https://www.wilbanksreptiles.com/feeding-questions

I am having a feeding problem. My new Ball Python has refused a second time. What should I do?

Follow these steps EXACTLY and your snake will eat.

1. Contact our team via text by clicking the Text icon at the bottom of the page, to inform us that you are having a problem.

2. At night, after the sun has done down(not just a dark room, but at night), turn all of the lights in the room off. Snakes are nocturnal predators. They know the difference between night and dark. This is the most important of these steps.

3. Place a LIVE rat fuzzy in the enclosure and immediately leave the room. Do not watch through the glass. Leave.

4. Leave the rat fuzzy in the cage over night and do not even look in the room until morning. A quiet, undisturbed environment will make the snake feel secure and when he/she goes out to "hunt" that night they will find the rat fuzzy. A rat fuzzy still has its eyes closed and is still nursing, it is not a danger to your snake. It should have a little fur. A pinkie rat does not seem to have enough odor or move around enough to elicit a feeding response. NEVER LEAVE A LARGER PREY ITEM IN THE ENCLOSURE OVER NIGHT.

5. If it is gone, then you should be on track to a normal feeding schedule and regimen. If the fuzzy rat is still in the enclosure the next morning, remove it and wait for 5 days. Do not attempt to feed every day. Please contact us to update us that you are still having an issue.

6. This time, still in the dark room and at night, except this time place a LIVE mouse hopper in the enclosure. A mouse hopper can harm your snake, so you should also place a few small pieces of dog food in the enclosure at the same time. Given the choice between eating the dog food and eating your snake, we have never seen a mouse make the choice of the snake. Most chew incidents happen because the rodent is hungry.

7. Only wait 1 hour with the mouse hopper in the enclosure in the dark room. It is too dangerous for you to leave the mouse in overnight.

8. When you check in an hour, the mouse should be a lump in the snake. If it is not, remove the mouse immediately.

9. Contact us again via the text icon and we will make arrangements to either exchange the snake or offer one on one advice about how to proceed. We rarely ever make it to this point, so do not worry.

To the OP, Thomas S: the point is that the breeder you got the snake from has instructions posted on their website- did you read them? He also invites buyers with difficulty to contact him for assistance. That's not something you should procrastinate on, by the way.

In addition to what Bogertophis said in this thread. What are you offering food wise? Is it the exact prey item that the breeder offered? If they offered a live mouse, are you? If they offered a F/T rat, you should be too, etc.

Its imperative that a) you offer the identical type of prey (mouse or rat and the same size) and b) be consistent in terms of if they offered live or frozen/thawed.

Additionally, being a your first BP, you may not know how to appropriately defrost prey (if frozen) and to warm up correctly and how to offer to entice your snake.

Please answer the above questions and if F/T we can help you with steps to properly feed.

This item should be addressed after the husbandry issues are fixed (hides, etc.).

I got a question about temperature, i got a 100w basking lamp, the thermometer half way up the back wall says between 85-90, now when i put the thermometer on the cage floor it says over 90. Which thermometer do i go by???there is No heater on bottom of tank

Wilbanks said live rat pup, i didn't ask what color if any color at all? I tried a white rat pup and Wilbanks said to leave it overnight, didn't work

You never want any part of the snake's home to be over 90* and since your snake is ground-dwelling (not flying around in the middle of the cage ;) ) I'd suggest you go by the "floor" temp.

Most likely your thermometer is not accurate- many such things are very poor quality, especially those round-stick-on types sold cheaply by pet stores. If that's what you're using, I'd suggest you invest in an accurate temp. gun & throw those away.

When you talking about the difference between keeping a snake healthy or endangering their life with a 5 degree difference, you really have to make sure, don't you think? Excess heat can cause permanent neurological damage in snakes, or result in serious & painful burns or their death. And the heat can really build up in an enclosed cage from a 100 watt bulb- which is why it (and ALL heating devices) should be connected to a thermostat for safety. Obviously it's not, & that is a recipe for disaster.

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Wilbanks said live rat pup, i didn't ask what color if any color at all? I tried a white rat pup and Wilbanks said to leave it overnight, didn't work

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Then per their instructions you should have been contacting them, right? But your husbandry issues (improper hides, & handling the snake to feed in a side container) weren't fixed either- that makes all the difference. If you're not willing to follow the instructions, maybe you really should re-home the snake, as mentioned in your first post.

Your snake wants to survive, but when you're not providing what it needs, it's never going to eat or do well. It's in your hands, the snake is only a captive.

Can you tell me "around" what months snakes usually shed? thx

i put the new hides in today, going to work on the humidity problem now, i did what Wilbanks said, feed a live rat pup, also to leave in cage overnight, i wrote them a email and that it did not work..They didnt respond back after that, then i saw this site, and going to give it a try..I am sick with worry myself, i got so much advice BUT some owner's say "Do That" and next owner will say "Dont do that", can you see where im coming from?

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Can you tell me "around" what months snakes usually shed? thx

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Any time of year. Shedding means growth, & without eating, they do not grow. You NEED to get this snake eating, or in the hands of someone who can.

The Wilbanks site did not say to email...it said to CALL. Many breeders get way to much email to sort thru...they're busy.

ill call tomorrow, according to their site a 3rd option would be trying a live Mouse Hopper, i wont try that unless they say so, the snakes eyes look a little white, thats why i was asking about shedding...

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

i put the new hides in today, going to work on the humidity problem now, i did what Wilbanks said, feed a live rat pup, also to leave in cage overnight, i wrote them a email and that it did not work..They didnt respond back after that, then i saw this site, and going to give it a try..I am sick with worry myself, i got so much advice BUT some owner's say "Do That" and next owner will say "Dont do that", can you see where im coming from?

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Yes, I can see that you're only half-listening to too many people & then trying to say you did what was called for. You didn't. (Any guess why this site is called Ball-Pythons.net?)

A new snake needs a home that is set up properly ahead of time- that means the right temperatures, humidity and hides so he feels safe enough to settle in & eat.

Since you didn't do that, you need to start over after giving him time now (about a week with NO interruptions or handling), watch for the signs* that he's hungry, & offer the proper prey- a live rat pup. Just because you offered a live rat pup before & he didn't take it does not mean you don't have to try again. He's not eating, it's your fault, & yes, you need to try again until you get him eating.

*Signs he's looking for food: most likely evening, he's looking out of his hide- NOT roaming in cage. Keep lights dim & your activity very minimal, & follow the instructions given by Wilbanks! I'm not going to repeat it all here, you can read.

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

...the snakes eyes look a little white, thats why i was asking about shedding...

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Can you post pics? IF he's in shed, you definitely don't want to offer prey right now.

Im not to cell phone savy, i dont use the camera or video options to often, i just use it to call and go online, i can try later, she's in her new cool side hide now, dont want to disturb her

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

ill call tomorrow, according to their site a 3rd option would be trying a live Mouse Hopper, i wont try that unless they say so, the snakes eyes look a little white, thats why i was asking about shedding...

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You need to make sure that you let Mike's team know about the husbandry issues you have going on. It's incredibly important that you let them know exactly what's going on. Don't call them and just say "hey this snake you sold me won't eat" because that's not what's going on. You've made some new keeper mistakes and your snake is stressed out and not eating. Absolutely call them and ask for advice, but you need to take the feedback you've been given here and make those corrections yourself. As far as the shedding question, your snake may be going into shed, which means you need to get that humidity under control, and I wouldn't try feeding again until she's done shedding.

You brought this animal into your home and let's be honest here, your set up was not ready for it. I don't mean to come off as abrasive or rude, but a lot of the errors you seem to be making could have been avoided by reading essentially any care guide on any website, to include Wilbanks' own guide. The attitude you had at the beginning of this thread when you said you were just going to donate her if you couldn't get her eating is just not the right mindset to have. It makes me feel like you'd rather just be rid of her than fix the mistakes that you've made. You have to hold yourself accountable for this stuff and remind yourself that you're now responsible, 100%, for this animal's well being.

Making mistakes is a part of learning, but giving up when things get a little tough is not a character trait to have if you want to be a successful reptile keeper.

First of all, thanks for the reply. When mention about the possibility of getting the snake a new owner, this was meant to help the suffering of the Snake, NOT my stress. I have to look at this poor animal every day, and it hurts. I am NOT blaming the snake its me, no excuses. When i bought the new habitat, it was for the snake to enjoy, NOT to stress it out by making it live in a shoe box, where it learned to eat. I made mistakes and ii take full blame for them, never question me if my heart is in this situation, people always say stupid things when they are depressed or angry

what should i do about lighting? now i leave the regular light on during the day, and switch to the blue night light when i get home from work, should i just keep the blue one on all the time? if a snake is in his hide and you try to feed him, what do you do, just drop the rat in front of his hide?

there's no half listening here, i read every post, one owner sent me a link about force feeding, I didn't even want to go there, should i have jumped on it because i am a lost idiot? Just give me instructions and i will follow them Exactly, no insults needed

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Just give me instructions and i will follow them Exactly, no insults needed

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Not sure where you see anyone insulting you? :confusd:

Our number one priority is the animals, not your feelings. Now, that being said, no one is intentionally trying to attack or belittle you. You've been given instructions several times over, and you come back asking about something else without telling us if you've fixed what we've already told you to fix. People are here trying to help you but you have to follow the guidance that you're being given. Don't get defensive like someone's out to get you, we're not, we're just not going to sugar coat things just to make you feel better. No one is being disrespectful towards you, but again, your feelings aren't our priority.

Have you corrected the situation with your hides? Fixed your humidity issue? Corrected your temps? Did you call Wilbanks to let them know you're having some issues? If so, did you let them know about your enclosure's shortcomings and what you're doing to correct them? Have you done anything that any number of posts on this thread have suggested you do?

i got the 2 hides, i got some card board and cut it to size of the top l"lid", so most of it is covered except for the light, humidity level still low, i will mist some of the cage before i go to work and see what the levels are when i get home..temps look good around 88 degrees. i called wilbanks yesterday and of course got a answering machine, i explained the situation but they never called or texted back, will keep on trying every day until i get them..just listening to what you got to say so far

I would go to the person that you bought the snake from and ask for the hide that she was originally using. See if they will send it to you because sometimes snakes get upset when you put them in a new environment. Also also ask the previous owner how they had their enclosure setup and anything specific to feeding the snake. Details are important so you can find out what your snake likes. Did they feed the snake in a seperate enclosure? Did they put it on paper towel to feed it or just leave it on substrate. Any details you can get from the previous owner is key here. Post a picture of your enclosure and the snake so we can see how big the snake is please.

i got green moss or brown moss use 1 of them or mix it up with both types?

thx, im still trying to get ahold of wilbanks, must be busy???more good things to ask them, thanks again

would buying 1 of those portable "Room" humidifiers for her room, and keep door shut which i do now, be good enough to get her some more humidity???

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

would buying 1 of those portable "Room" humidifiers for her room, and keep door shut which i do now, be good enough to get her some more humidity???

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https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...With-Pictures!

Someone may have already shared this, but take a look at the above link. While the post is old and some of the pics are gone, there's still explanations on how to set up a 20 gallon long glass tank to hold in humidity. I used this method when I kept my BP in a glass tank and it works great.

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Originally Posted by JacksReptiles

I would go to the person that you bought the snake from and ask for the hide that she was originally using. See if they will send it to you because sometimes snakes get upset when you put them in a new environment. Also also ask the previous owner how they had their enclosure setup and anything specific to feeding the snake. Details are important so you can find out what your snake likes. Did they feed the snake in a seperate enclosure? Did they put it on paper towel to feed it or just leave it on substrate. Any details you can get from the previous owner is key here. Post a picture of your enclosure and the snake so we can see how big the snake is please.

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Jacks: If you read this thread you'd know that the snake was bought from a professional breeder, namely Wilbanks, whose ads appear on our site. I cannot imagine any breeder sending out hides previously used by a snake they sold, can you? This owner needs real help, not more "rabbit holes" to go down.

What's more, even the mere mention of feeding a snake by leaving prey on a paper towel is dangerous (!) & could result in the death of their snake.
NEVER LEAVE PREY ON A PAPER TOWEL! (pretty please?)
F/T prey tends to be damp, and paper towels stick very well to such things- this practice could easily result in the paper towel being ingested by the snake, right along with the prey, & it wouldn't be the first time. Snakes cannot digest paper towels (or fabric, for that matter) & these materials can cause an internal blockage needing surgery to correct & from which a snake might not survive.

Let's not make things worse for this owner & their pet (or for anyone else reading our forum & trying to learn the right ways), okay? Thanks-

Thanks Alot for your post warning to me, i worry about Aspen too, not good for snake digestion either

Ok i will check it out definitely, tried calling Wilbanks again, still no call back yet...thanks

Has anyone had any problems starting out with a 20 gallon or larger habitat for their under 300 grams B.P's?

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...57#post2448857


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

Has anyone had any problems starting out with a 20 gallon or larger habitat for their under 300 grams B.P's?

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Many (or maybe most) have- I'm not in the business of raising BPs but standard wisdom around here is that most do better in smaller accommodations. (ie. tubs or rack system if keeping multiples) (I have raised 4 BPs in the past & had others also that were taken in as adults, but I'm not currently keeping BPs at all.)

Most likely Wilbanks raised your snake that way, so as I advised you previously, for best results try to copy what the breeder did with a young snake prior to your purchase, & if you don't know, be sure to ask them. Snake breeders don't have the room nor the desire to use glass tanks, & for BPs, it's harder to maintain humidity, and especially challenging for them to feel "safe & secure enough" to eat. They are ambush-predators- they hide & snag food that gets near enough to their hiding place for them to grab- they're not bold snakes & they hate being out in the open, instinctively, because that's where predators grab them. ;)

i just don't know what to do, your really the only one who says go to the tote, most people recommend feeding the Snake in its "real Home"...if i change up to the tote, thats going to take another week to de-stress the snake, and when the snake gets not too much bigger, it will be physically ready for a Big home, but will have to go thru the stress adjusting all over again...As for my Breeder(Wilbanks), 2 days, 2 calls, 2 left messages where i explain that i am in a "Desperate Situation", but no returned phone calls, no text, nothing, i don't even see a review option on their website, wonder why??? The next feed attempt is going to be a BIG one of course, and if i have to make the call without talking to the breeder, and making my choice to go with tote or not, thats setting up for another failed feed attempt because OBVIOUSLY i dont know for sure what can, or will work?

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

i just don't know what to do, your really the only one who says go to the tote, most people recommend feeding the Snake in its "real Home"...if i change up to the tote, thats going to take another week to de-stress the snake, and when the snake gets not too much bigger, it will be physically ready for a Big home, but will have to go thru the stress adjusting all over again...As for my Breeder(Wilbanks), 2 days, 2 calls, 2 left messages where i explain that i am in a "Desperate Situation", but no returned phone calls, no text, nothing, i don't even see a review option on their website, wonder why??? The next feed attempt is going to be a BIG one of course, and if i have to make the call without talking to the breeder, and making my choice to go with tote or not, thats setting up for another failed feed attempt because OBVIOUSLY i dont know for sure what can, or will work?

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I have no idea who you're referring to when you say "you're the only one who says go to the tote." There's a button under each post that says "reply with quote" or something to that effect, click that so we can tell specifically who/what you're referring to.

DO NOT move the snake to another container to try to feed. Feed it in its enclosure. Secondly you have got to give the corrections you're making time to work. You can't put hides in and then expect everything to be fine the next day. You've kept this snake in substandard conditions for weeks and you're talking to us like you expect her to come out and ask for food immediately because you made her some cardboard hides. You need to understand that you've stressed her out and, yea you're taking steps to correct the poor husbandry now, but she's most likely been stressed the entire time you've had her. This isn't going to be an overnight change in behavior for her or you. You also mentioned that she might have been going into shed, but you never said anything else about it. If she's in shed, you need to wait until she's done before trying to feed again.

I understand you're frustrated with Wilbanks, but just remember they're one of the biggest breeders in the country, they're probably working short staffed with Covid, and I'm sure they're running 100mph every single day. They're also not the ones to blame for this situation, and they're probably not going to give you any information that you haven't already received from us. IF you've made all the corrections that we've suggested to you then you need to just be patient and let your snake settle in.

Nothing is going to change overnight with her. You've kept her in a bad set up for 5 weeks, you've handled her to move her in and out trying to feed, you've made a lot of mistakes. Now you're doing the right thing, asking for advice, and fixing these issues, but you have to be patient and let the corrections work.

what im saying is that Bogertophis post is one of few posters who says to feed in a tote/seperate container