New addition- Tioman Island Kukri Snake

Just got this girl in yesterday. I'm very excited to be working with this species.

Anyone who has any experience with these snakes, info or advice, please feel free to share!

BTW, her name is Snickersnee.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6ab1b885b1.jpg

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Congrats, sure is a pretty little thing.

I agree with Reinz. I no zero about them, but wow, gorgeous.

I’ve done some research into kukri snakes in the past. They got their name because their teeth reminded people of kukri knives. The teeth are designed to cut through the leathery shell of reptile eggs. They also eat frogs, toads and lizards. Some researchers wrote an article about the cool but horrifying way they eat poisonous toads. They will eat rodents, but you can feed them bird eggs as well. The eggs will need to be cracked open. The teeth are designed to slice, not puncture, so they won’t be able to open hard shelled bird eggs. As adults their bite is no joke. Even at 2 or 3 feet they can give you stitches. They can be very defensive so I’d keep them as a display snake. Snake Discovery have a few and they have a video out on how they quarantined them. DM exotics might have some info about them.

Very interesting snakes!

‘When I first read your title I immediately thought of the Kukri/khurkuri knives originating from the Gurkhas Indians.

I hope that she will easily take rodents, unless you have a reliable source for frogs and lizards.

Please post more about her progression.

I look forward to reading your experiences with her, as I know zip about them. She's pretty!

That is very , very nice !!

It kinda reminds me of those Red Bamboo rat snakes ( the barred one )

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f69682b1e1.jpg

I had one of the other striped Bamboo rat snakes and it was savage !!

It also had the sharpest teeth of any I’ve ‘sampled’ !!

He was my scariest snake ... all 14” of him !!

Here he is :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d71cda768.jpg


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I’ve noticed a trend of yours and in choosing to take on very much advanced level species in less than a year and a half since acquiring your first snake. Certainly hope that the appropriate thorough research and preparation in advance is being conducted prior to obtaining these animals. Best luck.


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Originally Posted by jmcrook

I’ve noticed a trend of yours and in choosing to take on very much advanced level species in less than a year and a half since acquiring your first snake. Certainly hope that the appropriate thorough research and preparation in advance is being conducted prior to obtaining these animals. Best luck.


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I do appreciate your concern, as it wouldn't be there if you didn't care.

The foundation of my work, experience and education is exclusively revolved around care, handling, health/rehabilitation and research of captive animals/wildlife, and education of the public in that regard. Thorough planning and research isn't optional, and I'm not ashamed to admit that I still ask for input/advice, especially on sites like these from those with a more intimate knowledge.

You are correct. I purchased my first ball python (first snake) last July. However, prior to this, had owned and/or cared for reptiles/amphibians for over 10 years, while also working with them in an educational setting. Turtles, snakes, lizards, etc. modifying husbandry according to the newest information. Beginner level species, yes, but all are still going strong.

In regards to advanced species, I'm assuming you're referring to the WLP? Unfortunately, he did pass away during quarantine, despite veterinary care and medications/supplementation. The feeding complications, and death, was determined to have been caused by organ failure from a heavy parasite load and import stress, not by lack of appropriate effort or poor husbandry. I will eventually be getting another, however, I won't settle for less than captive bred, even if I have to wait years. Same goes for my desire to get a BRB, which I'll be on a waitlist for, for a couple more years, as this allows for more patient planning.

The kukri snake, this has been a desired species for some time, and I knew what I was getting into. She's eating fantastically for me, and based on the seller's information and my own research on their native habitat/ecosystem dynamics, I feel fairly confident in my efforts to provide her with optimal care. But as always, I'm always open to suggestions, advice, criticisms, and so forth, making modifications that best provide for her needs. I make posts like these for that reason, and because, well, you guys can appreciate the excitement of getting a new snake.

Thank you

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Originally Posted by AzJohn

I’ve done some research into kukri snakes in the past. They got their name because their teeth reminded people of kukri knives. The teeth are designed to cut through the leathery shell of reptile eggs. They also eat frogs, toads and lizards. Some researchers wrote an article about the cool but horrifying way they eat poisonous toads. They will eat rodents, but you can feed them bird eggs as well. The eggs will need to be cracked open. The teeth are designed to slice, not puncture, so they won’t be able to open hard shelled bird eggs. As adults their bite is no joke. Even at 2 or 3 feet they can give you stitches. They can be very defensive so I’d keep them as a display snake. Snake Discovery have a few and they have a video out on how they quarantined them. DM exotics might have some info about them.

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A lot is said about their fangs, and what they can do with them. Definitely a display only snake, I bought her with that intent

She's been feeding very well for me on f/t mouse pinks every 2-3 days. I do additionally offer her a partially opened quail egg in her enclosure on feeding nights, just in case she feels an inkling. As she becomes more established, I'll try introducing additional prey items and see how those are accepted. Otherwise, she's adjusted quite well, and I'm excited to be working with her.

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This is her during a feeding session. I'm happy to say that she's an excellent feeder, and scenting the pink with egg isn't even necessary. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dd6b8780e8.jpg

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Originally Posted by Reinz

Very interesting snakes!

‘When I first read your title I immediately thought of the Kukri/khurkuri knives originating from the Gurkhas Indians.

I hope that she will easily take rodents, unless you have a reliable source for frogs and lizards.

Please post more about her progression.

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I made sure she was established on rodents before moving forward with the purchase. The seller holds back his poorer feeders, but I was (am) also prepared if food refusals became an issue. The seller said quail eggs will fix this if that was the case, I know they feed on eggs in the wild.

She was feeding on pinks from the get-go. That in mind, I keep fresh quail eggs in the house, and offer her a cracked egg overnight on feeding days. But she hasn't refused a meal yet.

I've been looking into frog as another source as well. I've heard of someone offering frog legs to their kukri, I'll have to look more into that. But I'm very excited to be working with this species, I've been wanting to get one for some time now.

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I apologize for any misunderstanding here, I always add "any advice, insight, experience is appreciated" to my posts. I didn't mean to imply that I don't do my own research or planning [emoji28]

I always do my own research prior to getting an animal, and plan everything ahead of time. I just keep myself open to discussion, and to different information sources. It's just nice to hear from others who might also own the species, or others who may have learned something about them that they're willing to share. It leads to interesting discussion. Sorry about that.

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Great updates! I love good feeders & she's so pretty & unusual (rare). :gj:

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Originally Posted by AzJohn

but you can feed them bird eggs as well. The eggs will need to be cracked open. The teeth are designed to slice, not puncture, so they won’t be able to open hard shelled bird eggs.

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This is not entirely accurate, the adults are more than capable of puncturing a quail egg.


These animals are highly fossorial so use a media that is very loose and fairly deep because they love to dig down. Also, provide plenty of hiding places - cork tubes, cork flats and the like. I keep in naturalistic setups and use a variety of creeping ivy plants and a huge amount of leaf litter as well.

They do not like high temps, try to avoid going above 30C. They prefer a higher humidity and will shed poorly if too dry. I run a 12/12 light cycle year round

I feed a diet heavy on quail eggs. As I noted above, the adults are more than capable of popping their own, but since I have a cutter and am cutting for younger ones I just cut all of them. I feed one egg every 10-14 days, a bit more frequently for younger ones. About every third feed I insert a ReptiLink micro link into the egg, sort of a "false embryo" thing, adds some extra nutrition and trace elements and such. I will also rotate in button quail chicks and fish filet segments of appropriate size.

As mentioned, their teeth are no joke. Even small animals can do a lot of damage. Their defensive bite behaviour is to bite and twist, tends to leave a sort of spiral cut. The wounds bleed profusely, it is suspected that they have an anti-coagulant in their saliva

They are very secretive animals and do not do well when stressed. Best habit is to set them and forget them

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Originally Posted by asplundii

This is not entirely accurate, the adults are more than capable of puncturing a quail egg.


These animals are highly fossorial so use a media that is very loose and fairly deep because they love to dig down. Also, provide plenty of hiding places - cork tubes, cork flats and the like. I keep in naturalistic setups and use a variety of creeping ivy plants and a huge amount of leaf litter as well.

They do not like high temps, try to avoid going above 30C. They prefer a higher humidity and will shed poorly if too dry. I run a 12/12 light cycle year round

I feed a diet heavy on quail eggs. As I noted above, the adults are more than capable of popping their own, but since I have a cutter and am cutting for younger ones I just cut all of them. I feed one egg every 10-14 days, a bit more frequently for younger ones. About every third feed I insert a ReptiLink micro link into the egg, sort of a "false embryo" thing, adds some extra nutrition and trace elements and such. I will also rotate in button quail chicks and fish filet segments of appropriate size.

As mentioned, their teeth are no joke. Even small animals can do a lot of damage. Their defensive bite behaviour is to bite and twist, tends to leave a sort of spiral cut. The wounds bleed profusely, it is suspected that they have an anti-coagulant in their saliva

They are very secretive animals and do not do well when stressed. Best habit is to set them and forget them

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Thank you very much for all this information!

She's in a 12qt tub right now- she's a little over a month old. The substrate is 2 1/2- 3 inches deep, a mix of mosses and reptichip for the time being, and 1/4 of it has paper towel, where I offer the quail eggs and a small water dish. I have coco fiber and organic potting soil on hand as well.

The seller told me they can die from poor sheds, so I have the humidity between 75- 85% right now, I based it off of Thailand's averages. Her temps in the enclosure range from 75- 83F cool to warm end, the room is maintained at a minimum of 75F with a small ECO heater. I keep her enclosure near my bearded dragon's setup, so she recieves the day/night light cycle as well. But I'll be sure to keep the temp below 86.

I was told to feed her every 2-4 days at this age. I'm uncertain how rapidly they grow, but of course I'll space feedings accordingly as she matures. I heard 10-14 days for adults as well, so I'm glad you could verify that for me.

I would like to provide her with as diverse a diet as possible to make sure all her nutritional requirements are met- mimic her natural diet as much as possible. The "false embryo" idea is very clever and I'll definitely be incorporating that.

I'm uncertain as to how large her adult enclosure should be (at minimum), but I'm sure they use all the space they're provided. It would be nice to have a bioactive setup going for her eventually. I havent done one before, but my goal is to reduce as much stress and unnecessary contact as possible.

I'm happy to hear from someone who has owned them for a while (and everyone else and their kind/encouraging words, of course!) , I greatly appreciate all this information.

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Originally Posted by Awesomethepossum

I'm uncertain as to how large her adult enclosure should be (at minimum), but I'm sure they use all the space they're provided.

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My adults are in cages with a 60cm x 60cm footprint and is 30cm tall (being as fossorial as they are, they care little for height). I am sure they would make use of more space if it were available but they seem happy with what they have