BP Refusing Food - I Need Feeding Help

This is sort of a continuation of this post: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...a-New-BP-Owner

My snake, Smake, has been refusing to take food for 3 weeks now. He weighs 187g. He was eating f/t consistently for about a month, and suddenly stopped. I have a couple ideas as to why, but I'm not sure. One reason might be because I reset his tank, but I put everything back the same way it was before, and cleaned it the same way I typically do. He has eaten for me fairly soon after a tank clean, though. This past attempt, I attempted to feed him a week after the clean. I gave him the rat after sundown, and put a towel over his tank to make sure it was dark and private.

In the previous thread, his tanks' temperatures were unstable due to putting the thermostat probes in the wrong place. After correcting this, his temperatures have been very stable with minimal fluctuation (only about 1-3º) and had held stable for over 24 hours prior to the most recent feeding attempt. I feed him f/t and he didn't have an issue with it until now.

When I first got him, I went through a similar issue where he refused to eat for me, but I now know that was because his tank was too cold. I also had to figure out that he would rather I leave it in the tank with him and lay it on the ground than try to wiggle it and imitate life. (He appears to be somewhat afraid of the tongs..)

His tank temperatures are 76-78º on the cool side and 86-88º on the hot side. There is insulation on the back, side, and top of his tank, with just two sides exposed. His humidity is at about 60% right now. He was poking his head out of his cave on the cool side, periscoping, so I thought that was a sign of appetite. I guess not.

I will be attempting to feed him again one more week from now, unless suggested otherwise.. He is a juvenile, about 5 months old. He has been eating rat pups in the past, which is what he was raised on as soon as he was big enough to eat them. I've moved on to very slightly bigger pups, but he's eaten this size for me before.

Should I just wait a week to try to feed him again, or should I take some sort of action?

Thank you in advance for your advice and help!

https://mypetpython.com/the-ultimate...hooting-guide/

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Originally Posted by vivi

https://mypetpython.com/the-ultimate...hooting-guide/

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none of the situations mentioned in this post apply :(

It's possible he could just be fasting then.

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Originally Posted by vivi

It's possible he could just be fasting then.

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Do they really just fast for no reason??? Yeesh

If your temps are good, and the snake has eaten for you a few times, it's just rinse and repeat until he becomes a more consistent eater. Some snakes can be hit or miss when you first get them. I would avoid handling and space out the feeding intervals to every 10-14 days to avoid wasting feeders and to let his hunger grow. Hope he gets on track soon.

Yeah, I'd just wait a week and try again. At that age it's important to get him eating, but I assure you he won't starve himself.

Just stick to the basics for now: no handling, minimal activity in his enclosure (spot cleans, water change), and keep an eye on temps.
It seems your husbandry is dialed in and on point now. So as frustrating as it can be, try to be patient.

Great work picking up on his head poking out as a sign of hunger. That's typically a good indicator, but obviously not set in stone.
But that's exactly how I feed my adult BPs. I basically wait for them to "tell me" by displaying that behavior on consecutive nights. If I see it two nights in a row, I offer on night three. Works like a charm.

I might wait til later at night to try again though. And make sure you're getting the prey warm enough. You want to aim for around 100° focusing on the head. Since pups are pretty small, they cool quickly too, so it may require re-heating once or twice.

It sounds like you're on the right track. Just try and be patient. Good luck!!

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Originally Posted by smakemom

Do they really just fast for no reason??? Yeesh

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No, not at that age.

I keep short tails and bloods, but I do have one young ball python, and he is the biggest pain in the butt out of all of them. I am definitely not a BP expert or anything, but what worked for me when mine would go off of frozen thawed, is to get him a live mouse. My guy, Tarmac, is a 2019, and about 500g or so. He is hit or miss with frozen/thawed, never refused a live mouse. Yours would probably take a hopper or small adult(2 hoppers probably). I always figured my top priority was to get the snake eating consistently, no matter what it was. Frozen/thawed could wait. Maybe you could try that until you get his size up, and then try the frozen again. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by PeteV

I keep short tails and bloods, but I do have one young ball python, and he is the biggest pain in the butt out of all of them.

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That's so funny, my Borneo STP is my only pain in the butt eater in my crew. My BPs are both fantastic eaters.
Just goes to show, animals within the same species are still individuals and there are no "one size fits all" troubleshooting methods.

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Originally Posted by PeteV

I keep short tails and bloods, but I do have one young ball python, and he is the biggest pain in the butt out of all of them...

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I can also attest to BPs being PITAs to feed...:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

That's so funny, my Borneo STP is my only pain in the butt eater in my crew. My BPs are both fantastic eaters.
Just goes to show, animals within the same species are still individuals and there are no "one size fits all" troubleshooting methods.

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I have 2 SSTPS, 2 Borneos, 2 Bloods. My male matrix Blood python, Newman, might skip a meal while shedding. Newman is the only STP that ever skips. "Tarmac The Stupid" (ball python) won't eat if he sees me within 24hrs of feeding time. To get him to eat frozen, I had to wait until dark( when he is out of his hides prowling), slide the tub out just enough to get the rodent in, and maybe he will grab it. This takes place in total darkness so he can't see me. With live rodents, he never has to see me. Tarmac is relatively new to me so I think he just needs more socializing (obviously). I think he is also more nervous by nature than other snakes of his kind. He'll come around, just like the OPs snake will. I feel I should feed the animals what they want when they getting used to their new life, rather than forcing something they aren't sure about.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I can also attest to BPs being PITAs to feed...:rolleyes:

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yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

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Same here...to be honest, I'm really mystified at how popular they are, in spite of all the demanding requirements & "head games" they appear to play. So many kinds of
snakes that are just as docile and SO much easier & more fun to live with. I guess it's a triumph of skilled marketing...:rolleyes:

I started my collection 3 years ago so the majority are between 2 - 3 years of age, with a recently acquired juvenile of about 5 mos., and a couple that were acquired as adults. MOST of mine eat f/t, with a couple that came to me eating live and have resisted making the change to f/t.
In my limited experience I have found that USUALLY youngsters eat better and more consistently than adults. There may be random circumstances, such as shipping, shedding, etc. that will put the young ones off for a bit, but for the most part, if temps, humidity and habitat requirements are met, they might go off for a couple weeks to a month, but then get themselves on track.
THIS year however, starting in late fall/early winter, almost all of my adults are off. Some have only had a couple meals since early November and even my most dependable eaters are skipping meals. Since my husbandry hasn't changed, I'm assuming it's hormonal , esp. as a few of them are JUST starting to be a bit more animated and show some of their old interest when I've got the hair dryer working on warming up f/t.
Very generally, I find that offering live will often prompt one that's off their food to strike/wrap, and feed. The downside of that though, is I would prefer NOT to transition those that previously took f/t to feed on live only. I no longer worry the same way I used to, I have reached the point in which, if the snake seems to be in good condition and refuses food when offered, I just wait 10 - 14 days and try again. I look for them to be "cruising" in their bins, as that's often a sign that they're hunting, so laying with their head out of their hide is an indicator that they might be at least THINKING about hunting.
It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it. If they show NO interest, no tongue flicking at the prey etc., they probably aren't going to take it. If I'm not sure, I usually heat up one less than I think I need so am not discarding rats all the time.
Hang in there, if your conditions are right, and if your snake was eating well before, it's probably just taking a break. Easier said than done, but TRY not to worry, ball pythons can be frustrating in the feeding department, but will usually get around to eating whey THEY feel like it.

I started my collection 3 years ago so the majority are between 2 - 3 years of age, with a recently acquired juvenile of about 5 mos., and a couple that were acquired as adults.&nbsp; MOST of mine eat f/t, with a couple that came to me eating live and have resisted making the change to f/t.<br>In my limited experience I have found that USUALLY youngsters eat better and more consistently than adults. There may be random circumstances, such as shipping, shedding, etc. that will put the young ones off for a bit, but for the most part, if temps, humidity and habitat requirements are met, they might go off for a couple weeks to a month, but then get themselves on track.<br>THIS year however,&nbsp; starting in late fall/early winter, almost all of my adults are off. Some have only had a couple meals since early November and even my most dependable eaters are skipping meals.&nbsp; Since my husbandry hasn't changed, I'm assuming it's hormonal , esp. as a few of them are JUST starting to be a bit more animated and show some of their old interest when I've got the hair dryer working on warming up f/t.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>Very generally, I find that offering live will often prompt one that's off their food to strike/wrap, and feed.&nbsp; The downside of that though, is I would prefer NOT to transition those that previously took f/t to feed on live only.&nbsp; I no longer worry the same way I used to, I have reached the point in which, if the snake seems to be in good condition and refuses food when offered, I just wait 10 - 14 days and try again.&nbsp; &nbsp;I look for them to be "cruising" in their bins, as that's often a sign that they're hunting, so laying with their head out of their hide is an indicator that they might be at least THINKING about hunting.&nbsp;<br>It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it.&nbsp; If they show NO interest, no tongue flicking at the prey etc., they probably aren't going to take it. If I'm not sure, I usually heat up one less than I think I need so am not discarding rats all the time.&nbsp;<br>Hang in there, if your conditions are right, and if your snake was eating well before, it's probably just taking a break.&nbsp; Easier said than done, but TRY not to worry, ball pythons can be frustrating in the feeding department, but will usually get around to eating whey THEY feel like it.

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Originally Posted by B.P.'s 4me

s
It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it.

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This right here has been the story of my 3 year old male BP who is such a finicky eater. I can't remember the last time he's struck at his food. It's always a drop in front of his hide and come back the next day to check if it's gone. I'm wondering if there's a reason why they would be scared of the prey and if there is a better way of presenting it? I've always felt if my BP was cruising when I'm ready to present food then it's a wasted effort because he wont take it outside of his hide. Now, after several rejections inside his hide, I'm at a loss. Especially after he's cruising the next night after refusal. You can't win w/ these animals ;)

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Same here...to be honest, I'm really mystified at how popular they are, in spite of all the demanding requirements & "head games" they appear to play. So many kinds of
snakes that are just as docile and SO much easier & more fun to live with. I guess it's a triumph of skilled marketing...:rolleyes:

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I think BP's would make the best pet snake if only their eating habits are like a colubrid. The husbandry is not hard once they are set and confirmed, they are the perfect size, have tons of morphs, and so docile. I would love to keep more bp's of every morph imaginable (Or however much space is allowed lol) only if they eat as often and as easily as a colubrid, because a big part of pet ownership enjoyment for me is to watch them eat. Missing 2 or 3 meals is fine but months on end? Or not eating because of fur color, prey preference... Etc.. Like cmon, really? Oh well. That is all wishful thinking anyway. They are what they are, and that is fine.

OP, the previous posts provide good advice to you. If it still won't eat for 2-3 weeks, look for Deb's 101 hatching sticky thread in the forums. Follow her instructions and it should work.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

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They’re only boring for boring people

:)

You put a few hides in , loads of branches / bark pieces and some fake foliage and they’ll be climbing around every evening .

If I had a dollar for all the posts I’ve seen over the years saying .. “ he’s got a lovely plastic tub , a hide and always has a bowl of fresh water YET he doesn’t do anything apart from lie around or sleeps in his hide .


Aghhhhh !!!!

Oh and fussy / non feeders ... look up the hairdryer trick ..

I’ve had 3 people thank me by pm in the last week alone ..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

They’re only boring for boring people

:)

You put a few hides in , loads of branches / bark pieces and some fake foliage and they’ll be climbing around every evening .

If I had a dollar for all the posts I’ve seen over the years saying .. “ he’s got a lovely plastic tub , a hide and always has a bowl of fresh water YET he doesn’t do anything apart from lie around or sleeps in his hide .


Aghhhhh !!!!

Oh and fussy / non feeders ... look up the hairdryer trick ..

I’ve had 3 people thank me by pm in the last week alone ..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Unfortunately I have all that (a nice large AP enclosure, several hides, branches foliage and a large grapevine structure for him to climb on) and he'll come out of his hide late at night but during the day he's tucked away in his hide which is a good thing. I prefer my BOA who is perched out and about at reasonable times to view.

And I know you preach the hairdryer trick which I use 'every time' but that doesn't always fix the fussiest of eaters. It is what it is.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Unfortunately I have all that (a nice large AP enclosure, several hides, branches foliage and a large grapevine structure for him to climb on) and he'll come out of his hide late at night but during the day he's tucked away in his hide which is a good thing. I prefer my BOA who is perched out and about at reasonable times to view.

And I know you preach the hairdryer trick which I use 'every time' but that doesn't always fix the fussiest of eaters. It is what it is.

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Well there’s your problem.. Royal / Ball pythons are basically nocturnal animals..


The hairdryer trick seems to work 95% of the time to be fair .. and I’ll take that success rate any day of the week .


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

The hairdryer trick seems to work 95% of the time to be fair .. and I’ll take that success rate any day of the week .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeteV

I keep short tails and bloods, but I do have one young ball python, and he is the biggest pain in the butt out of all of them. I am definitely not a BP expert or anything, but what worked for me when mine would go off of frozen thawed, is to get him a live mouse. My guy, Tarmac, is a 2019, and about 500g or so. He is hit or miss with frozen/thawed, never refused a live mouse. Yours would probably take a hopper or small adult(2 hoppers probably). I always figured my top priority was to get the snake eating consistently, no matter what it was. Frozen/thawed could wait. Maybe you could try that until you get his size up, and then try the frozen again. Good luck.

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I had feeding trouble when I first got him, but he eventually did start eating for me. He never took to live or f/t mice. He eventually just accepted the f/t pup rat and ate for me for about a month and a half, but has now decided to be uncooperative again. I'm going to try and just wait it out, so long as it's safe to do so.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

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I reheat at least twice before leaving it inside the enclosure. And I don't know how long, I actually will feel the heat of the rat through a tissue, and if it feels hot to me, I offer it. I usually thaw it in warm water, then put it in VERY hot water for about 5 minutes, and he used to take it after that. He's never taken a rat I've blow-dried.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

This right here has been the story of my 3 year old male BP who is such a finicky eater. I can't remember the last time he's struck at his food. It's always a drop in front of his hide and come back the next day to check if it's gone. I'm wondering if there's a reason why they would be scared of the prey and if there is a better way of presenting it? I've always felt if my BP was cruising when I'm ready to present food then it's a wasted effort because he wont take it outside of his hide. Now, after several rejections inside his hide, I'm at a loss. Especially after he's cruising the next night after refusal. You can't win w/ these animals ;)

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My bp is the same way. He did not like it at all when I would dangle/wiggle the rat and would "strike" at it, but wouldn't hold on, so I am guessing that it was a defense strike. I also would feed him when he was in his hide and just put it outside and he would fetch it, and go back inside his cave. He's funny, because it has to be at a particular angle though. I used to spend a lot of time watching him wiggle around trying to create the perfect angle of approach. Picky, picky.

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

I think BP's would make the best pet snake if only their eating habits are like a colubrid. The husbandry is not hard once they are set and confirmed, they are the perfect size, have tons of morphs, and so docile. I would love to keep more bp's of every morph imaginable (Or however much space is allowed lol) only if they eat as often and as easily as a colubrid, because a big part of pet ownership enjoyment for me is to watch them eat. Missing 2 or 3 meals is fine but months on end? Or not eating because of fur color, prey preference... Etc.. Like cmon, really? Oh well. That is all wishful thinking anyway. They are what they are, and that is fine.

OP, the previous posts provide good advice to you. If it still won't eat for 2-3 weeks, look for Deb's 101 hatching sticky thread in the forums. Follow her instructions and it should work.

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I actually find BPs to be the perfect fit for me. I find him to be very relaxing to handle or observe, whether he's in his hide or not. It makes it exciting whenever they do decide to go about the tank, and I always take pictures whenever I see him moving around. I'm a really busy person too, so it's nice having a pet that can be happy just chilling all on his own, and I don't have to worry about him getting lonely or bored. I think I'd be stressed out if I had a snake that was constantly moving around haha.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

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When they’re used to it it’s normally straight away or twice if they strike and miss first time .

For unaccustomed ones it can take 7 or more attempts.. where you reheat and offer INSTANTLY and keep repeating..

Of course if there’s absolutely no interest so no tongue flicking then just leave it for a week or so ..


Always feed evenings ... in dim/ low lighting and ensure the snake is well settled under a hide before dangling the food in front of the hide entrance


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Originally Posted by smakemom

I actually find BPs to be the perfect fit for me. I find him to be very relaxing to handle or observe, whether he's in his hide or not. It makes it exciting whenever they do decide to go about the tank, and I always take pictures whenever I see him moving around. I'm a really busy person too, so it's nice having a pet that can be happy just chilling all on his own, and I don't have to worry about him getting lonely or bored. I think I'd be stressed out if I had a snake that was constantly moving around haha.

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They are absolutely perfect for handling , no doubts.. mine have always been 100% calm and trustworthy - very slow moving as well


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I have a new idea that maybe his tank is still too cool. The air itself isn't warm when I put my hand in the tank, resulting in only floor heat that is just escaping. I do have a foam board on top, but it doesn't seem to be doing enough. I ordered a small dimmable clamp lamp and ceramic heat emitter that will arrive this thursday. Hopefully, by making the air warmer, it will encourage him to be a little more active and thus more interested in food.

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Originally Posted by smakemom

I have a new idea that maybe his tank is still too cool. The air itself isn't warm when I put my hand in the tank, resulting in only floor heat that is just escaping. I do have a foam board on top, but it doesn't seem to be doing enough. I ordered a small dimmable clamp lamp and ceramic heat emitter that will arrive this thursday. Hopefully, by making the air warmer, it will encourage him to be a little more active and thus more interested in food.

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Sorry if I missed it, but how are you measuring temps?

Your hand feeling for warmth isn't an accurate tool.

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Sorry if I missed it, but how are you measuring temps?

Your hand feeling for warmth isn't an accurate tool.

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I realize that. It's just one tip off that it isn't as warm as it should be. The hygrometer in his tank read 71º last I checked. I measure the temp of the ground with thermometer probes, so I know the heat on the ground on both sides of his tank is where it needs to be and has been stable.

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

I think BP's would make the best pet snake if only their eating habits are like a colubrid. The husbandry is not hard once they are set and confirmed, they are the perfect size, have tons of morphs, and so docile. I would love to keep more bp's of every morph imaginable (Or however much space is allowed lol) only if they eat as often and as easily as a colubrid, because a big part of pet ownership enjoyment for me is to watch them eat. Missing 2 or 3 meals is fine but months on end? Or not eating because of fur color, prey preference... Etc.. Like cmon, really? Oh well. That is all wishful thinking anyway. They are what they are, and that is fine...

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Yes, me too "if only", lol...oh well, every kind of snake (or pet) has pro's & con's.

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Originally Posted by smakemom

I realize that. It's just one tip off that it isn't as warm as it should be. The hygrometer in his tank read 71º last I checked. I measure the temp of the ground with thermometer probes, so I know the heat on the ground on both sides of his tank is where it needs to be and has been stable.

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Hahahha, I figured. But I've heard stranger things :confusd:

My snake, Smake, ate! I added a dimmable ceramic heat emitter to the top of his tank. I've been controlling it manually but will look into getting a timer. I have it set to emit only a bit of warmth to lift the ambient temp up, and I turn it off at night to avoid disaster since I can't control the lamp's temp if I'm unconscious. After that, I offered him food a night later. He ate quickly and happily. It seems we're doing fine now! :)

That's great news! :gj: :fest: