BP Refusing Food - I Need Feeding Help

[ckuhn003]

The hairdryer trick seems to work 95% of the time to be fair .. and I’ll take that success rate any day of the week .


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The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

[smakemom]

I keep short tails and bloods, but I do have one young ball python, and he is the biggest pain in the butt out of all of them. I am definitely not a BP expert or anything, but what worked for me when mine would go off of frozen thawed, is to get him a live mouse. My guy, Tarmac, is a 2019, and about 500g or so. He is hit or miss with frozen/thawed, never refused a live mouse. Yours would probably take a hopper or small adult(2 hoppers probably). I always figured my top priority was to get the snake eating consistently, no matter what it was. Frozen/thawed could wait. Maybe you could try that until you get his size up, and then try the frozen again. Good luck.

I had feeding trouble when I first got him, but he eventually did start eating for me. He never took to live or f/t mice. He eventually just accepted the f/t pup rat and ate for me for about a month and a half, but has now decided to be uncooperative again. I'm going to try and just wait it out, so long as it's safe to do so.

[smakemom]

The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

I reheat at least twice before leaving it inside the enclosure. And I don't know how long, I actually will feel the heat of the rat through a tissue, and if it feels hot to me, I offer it. I usually thaw it in warm water, then put it in VERY hot water for about 5 minutes, and he used to take it after that. He's never taken a rat I've blow-dried.

[smakemom]

This right here has been the story of my 3 year old male BP who is such a finicky eater. I can't remember the last time he's struck at his food. It's always a drop in front of his hide and come back the next day to check if it's gone. I'm wondering if there's a reason why they would be scared of the prey and if there is a better way of presenting it? I've always felt if my BP was cruising when I'm ready to present food then it's a wasted effort because he wont take it outside of his hide. Now, after several rejections inside his hide, I'm at a loss. Especially after he's cruising the next night after refusal. You can't win w/ these animals

My bp is the same way. He did not like it at all when I would dangle/wiggle the rat and would "strike" at it, but wouldn't hold on, so I am guessing that it was a defense strike. I also would feed him when he was in his hide and just put it outside and he would fetch it, and go back inside his cave. He's funny, because it has to be at a particular angle though. I used to spend a lot of time watching him wiggle around trying to create the perfect angle of approach. Picky, picky.

[smakemom]

I think BP's would make the best pet snake if only their eating habits are like a colubrid. The husbandry is not hard once they are set and confirmed, they are the perfect size, have tons of morphs, and so docile. I would love to keep more bp's of every morph imaginable (Or however much space is allowed lol) only if they eat as often and as easily as a colubrid, because a big part of pet ownership enjoyment for me is to watch them eat. Missing 2 or 3 meals is fine but months on end? Or not eating because of fur color, prey preference... Etc.. Like cmon, really? Oh well. That is all wishful thinking anyway. They are what they are, and that is fine.

OP, the previous posts provide good advice to you. If it still won't eat for 2-3 weeks, look for Deb's 101 hatching sticky thread in the forums. Follow her instructions and it should work.

I actually find BPs to be the perfect fit for me. I find him to be very relaxing to handle or observe, whether he's in his hide or not. It makes it exciting whenever they do decide to go about the tank, and I always take pictures whenever I see him moving around. I'm a really busy person too, so it's nice having a pet that can be happy just chilling all on his own, and I don't have to worry about him getting lonely or bored. I think I'd be stressed out if I had a snake that was constantly moving around haha.

[Zincubus]

The hairdryer trick used to work great. The smell of the rat heating up would drive my BP out of his hide to the point he was hanging out of the enclosure ready to pounce. Now it only generates minimal movement inside his hide. I'm curious how many times you reheat and offer before giving up or dropping the prey inside the enclosure? And about how long do you hit the prey w/ the heat?

When they’re used to it it’s normally straight away or twice if they strike and miss first time .

For unaccustomed ones it can take 7 or more attempts.. where you reheat and offer INSTANTLY and keep repeating..

Of course if there’s absolutely no interest so no tongue flicking then just leave it for a week or so ..


Always feed evenings ... in dim/ low lighting and ensure the snake is well settled under a hide before dangling the food in front of the hide entrance


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[Zincubus]

I actually find BPs to be the perfect fit for me. I find him to be very relaxing to handle or observe, whether he's in his hide or not. It makes it exciting whenever they do decide to go about the tank, and I always take pictures whenever I see him moving around. I'm a really busy person too, so it's nice having a pet that can be happy just chilling all on his own, and I don't have to worry about him getting lonely or bored. I think I'd be stressed out if I had a snake that was constantly moving around haha.

They are absolutely perfect for handling , no doubts.. mine have always been 100% calm and trustworthy - very slow moving as well


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[smakemom]

I have a new idea that maybe his tank is still too cool. The air itself isn't warm when I put my hand in the tank, resulting in only floor heat that is just escaping. I do have a foam board on top, but it doesn't seem to be doing enough. I ordered a small dimmable clamp lamp and ceramic heat emitter that will arrive this thursday. Hopefully, by making the air warmer, it will encourage him to be a little more active and thus more interested in food.

[Craiga 01453]

I have a new idea that maybe his tank is still too cool. The air itself isn't warm when I put my hand in the tank, resulting in only floor heat that is just escaping. I do have a foam board on top, but it doesn't seem to be doing enough. I ordered a small dimmable clamp lamp and ceramic heat emitter that will arrive this thursday. Hopefully, by making the air warmer, it will encourage him to be a little more active and thus more interested in food.

Sorry if I missed it, but how are you measuring temps?

Your hand feeling for warmth isn't an accurate tool.

[smakemom]

Sorry if I missed it, but how are you measuring temps?

Your hand feeling for warmth isn't an accurate tool.

I realize that. It's just one tip off that it isn't as warm as it should be. The hygrometer in his tank read 71º last I checked. I measure the temp of the ground with thermometer probes, so I know the heat on the ground on both sides of his tank is where it needs to be and has been stable.