Custom viv advise needed

Hello everyone, this is going to be my first bp, although I am not new to reptiles or snakes.

This enclosure was built for my beardy originally and i wanted to re-use it for a bp. It's an ackward 37x19x12 interior because it was built with backward leftovers. So ya, not so pretty but whatever. 4 layers of polyurethane to seal it, 1 plug hole on the left side and 2 lamp holes with screens on top.

For a desert reptiles it works great but as I have started to test heating methods for the future bp, I am hitting roadblocks. Obviously it was intended to heat from above but, after my test tonight i am at 30% humidity. Granted the cypress bedding isn't in the enclosure yet but still, i am worried my CHE and light combo will dry out the environment too much.

I was thinking maybe uee cfl bulbs for lighting and i could stick a UTH under a big ceramic tile inside the inclosure to have some sort of homemade "hot rock" on my thermostat. My bottom flooring is a big piece of non glued vinyl flooring with silicon around the edges. Will it melt it if I use the little bumpers to create an air space between the vinyl flooring and the tile ? I could put the main hide on that heated tile ?

Other ideas welcomed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d51be3bb6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4b286a5cc4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...96cf2bf9fc.jpg

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You may try using a deep heat projector instead of a CHE. From what I’ve heard, they aren’t as drying, and their heat is able to better penetrate the skin and muscle of the reptile.
Here’s a 12$ one from amazon-
https://www.amazon.com/Sparkzoo-Infr...06&sr=8-21

Be sure that you fully treat the inside of the enclosure to keep it from molding. Good luck!


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I would not use a UTH or heat tape under ceramic, as my understanding is that both need to be able to breathe a little bit in order for trapped heat to escape. Hopefully someone will chime in to correct me if I am wrong. You also don't want to put the UTH's thermostat probe/cord inside the enclosure.

Have you tried just the lamp or just the CHE? CHE needs to be on a thermostat. I personally use dimmers with my lamps, but many advocate for thermostats for lamps as well.

CHEs and lamps do dry things out. A substrate that retains water can help, but I have to mist my enclosures that use lamps, and I also invested in a room humidifier.

Ya I have a thermostat so whatever heat source i use will be on it.

To be clear, there would be an air space between the tile and the floor. I would use the plastic bumps sticky plastic legs that come with most heat pads to lift the tile off the ground by about 1/2". Why would the probe inside the viv be a problem ?

No worries, the inside and outside was coated with 4 layers of water based polyurethane last week so its sealed!

I won't have the bp before.end.of february so...plenty of time to air out and dry.

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Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

Ya I have a thermostat so whatever heat source i use will be on it.

To be clear, there would be an air space between the tile and the floor. I would use the plastic bumps sticky plastic legs that come with most heat pads to lift the tile off the ground by about 1/2". Why would the probe inside the viv be a problem ?

No worries, the inside and outside was coated with 4 layers of water based polyurethane last week so its sealed!

I won't have the bp before.end.of february so...plenty of time to air out and dry.

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Pee / moisture could get on the probe and cause the thermostat to heat to a higher / lower temperature.

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Originally Posted by TechnoCheese

You may try using a deep heat projector instead of a CHE. From what I’ve heard, they aren’t as drying, and their heat is able to better penetrate the skin and muscle of the reptile.
Here’s a 12$ one from amazon-
https://www.amazon.com/Sparkzoo-Infr...06&sr=8-21

Be sure that you fully treat the inside of the enclosure to keep it from molding. Good luck!


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Thanks I will look into that. Although it looks very similar to the che.

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Originally Posted by wnateg

Pee / moisture could get on the probe and cause the thermostat to heat to a higher / lower temperature.

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Makes sens! What if i tape the probe under the tile, on the underside of the heating tape?


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I would try a RHP, they don't dry out as much as the CHE, I've heard.

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Originally Posted by wnateg

I would try a RHP, they don't dry out as much as the CHE, I've heard.

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I have seen that in my research, problem is, I have also seen many people say the are not very durable. Anyone have experience with reliable rhp ?

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Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

I have seen that in my research, problem is, I have also seen many people say the are not very durable. Anyone have experience with reliable rhp ?

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People use them here all the time. I haven't used them myself yet, but I have two coming from pro products. Pro products (have to email to order) and reptile basics are the recommended.

I use RHP's in most/all of my melamine and PVC enclosures - about 30 total - and have had no issues with them. I would use one over a DHP/CHE in this application.

There are heat mats designed specifically for use inside the enclosure; they are sealed units that can get wet. I think UltraTherm is one, but I've never used that brand. Big Apple Herp sells a brand called IntelliTemp and I have a few of those. I use a dimmer switch/rheostat with them to create a basking spot since those enclosures also have an RHP that keeps the ambient temp constant, so I don't have to worry about the heat mat temperature swinging up and down with the ambient room temperature because it's regulated by a dimmer/rheostat rather than a thermostat.

I am using a pro heat panel in my 36" X 18" X 18" Exo terra enclosure with the screen top that is divided into 4 with plastic ribs? Even before the RHP I struggled with humidity more than heat (plus IMHO) RHPs are more efficiant. I think you get a lot more heat spread over a larger area for the same watts of heat using any other method. I have all the screen blocked off with thin plastic and then covered with that foil bubble wrap. The sides are also covered with the same foil/bubble wrap insulation. Part of my issue is how I had to mount it with that divided screen top. It hung down enough my snake just had to try and get beside or above it. I blocked all that off and everything has been working great for the 6 months it has been set up this way.

No matter how much I sprayed and I use Cypres mulch I couldn't keep humodity high enough. I would stir a good amount of water into the mulch and I would get 65-70 percent for a day at most. It would stay higher than the rooms humidity but not high enough. It would maintain 45-50% and it would probably work but I wanted to do better. I have this snake in captivity and I want him to be as comfortable and thriving as possible. I finally went with a misting system and it is 90% hands off but for spot cleaning.

I think in that wood enclosure (and I think it looks good!) would work perfectly with a RHP. Contact Bob at Pro-heat and tell him about your snake, enclosure, and the conditions where the enclosure will be kept. He will recomend a panel of a certain wattage. Use that wattage to shop around and read reviews.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

I use RHP's in most/all of my melamine and PVC enclosures - about 30 total - and have had no issues with them. I would use one over a DHP/CHE in this application.

There are heat mats designed specifically for use inside the enclosure; they are sealed units that can get wet. I think UltraTherm is one, but I've never used that brand. Big Apple Herp sells a brand called IntelliTemp and I have a few of those. I use a dimmer switch/rheostat with them to create a basking spot since those enclosures also have an RHP that keeps the ambient temp constant, so I don't have to worry about the heat mat temperature swinging up and down with the ambient room temperature because it's regulated by a dimmer/rheostat rather than a thermostat.

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So if I understand you properly, the rhp would not create a hot spot therefore my problem really isn't solved. It would help the ambient temp without drying, but i would still have to use a heat mat inside ?

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Originally Posted by Alien

I am using a pro heat panel in my 36" X 18" X 18" Exo terra enclosure with the screen top that is divided into 4 with plastic ribs? Even before the RHP I struggled with humidity more than heat (plus IMHO) RHPs are more efficiant. I think you get a lot more heat spread over a larger area for the same watts of heat using any other method. I have all the screen blocked off with thin plastic and then covered with that foil bubble wrap. The sides are also covered with the same foil/bubble wrap insulation. Part of my issue is how I had to mount it with that divided screen top. It hung down enough my snake just had to try and get beside or above it. I blocked all that off and everything has been working great for the 6 months it has been set up this way.

No matter how much I sprayed and I use Cypres mulch I couldn't keep humodity high enough. I would stir a good amount of water into the mulch and I would get 65-70 percent for a day at most. It would stay higher than the rooms humidity but not high enough. It would maintain 45-50% and it would probably work but I wanted to do better. I have this snake in captivity and I want him to be as comfortable and thriving as possible. I finally went with a misting system and it is 90% hands off but for spot cleaning.

I think in that wood enclosure (and I think it looks good!) would work perfectly with a RHP. Contact Bob at Pro-heat and tell him about your snake, enclosure, and the conditions where the enclosure will be kept. He will recomend a panel of a certain wattage. Use that wattage to shop around and read reviews.

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Thank you that is really helpfull and kind. How do you create a hotspot in your enclosure ? With the rhp ?

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Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

So if I understand you properly, the rhp would not create a hot spot therefore my problem really isn't solved. It would help the ambient temp without drying, but i would still have to use a heat mat inside ?

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Not necessarily. Depending on the size of your enclosure, ambient room temps, and the size of the RHP, it is possible to just use the RHP for both ambient and hot spot. I use RHPs in my PVC enclosures and do not use any under tank heaters.

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Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

So if I understand you properly, the rhp would not create a hot spot therefore my problem really isn't solved. It would help the ambient temp without drying, but i would still have to use a heat mat inside?

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It depends on the height of the enclosure, the ambient room temperature, how well-insulated the enclosure is, etc. I have some enclosures that are 12-15" high and the RHP creates a basking spot just fine. I have others that are 18-24" and the floor temp only gets to the low 80's under the RHP so I use a second appliance specifically for belly heat.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

It depends on the height of the enclosure, the ambient room temperature, how well-insulated the enclosure is, etc. I have some enclosures that are 12-15" high and the RHP creates a basking spot just fine. I have others that are 18-24" and the floor temp only gets to the low 80's under the RHP so I use a second appliance specifically for belly heat.

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Ok thks, i will contact bob from pro then and see what could be done.

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I have 2 36x24x18 enclosures with an 80 reptile basics RHP each. I use 3 inches of coconut husk substrate. I have a hot spot and an ambient temp that hold great. No additional heat source needed. I would recommend filling in the cut outs you have for lights with wood and seal it. Then get an RHP. No need for uvb with ball pythons. My humidity is great every few days I dump a little of the water as I'm changing it in the cage and can stay 50 - 70 for easy 5 days without adding water. My house is super dry in the winter and it's barely made a difference compared to Summer.

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Originally Posted by gunkle

I have 2 36x24x18 enclosures with an 80 reptile basics RHP each. I use 3 inches of coconut husk substrate. I have a hot spot and an ambient temp that hold great. No additional heat source needed. I would recommend filling in the cut outs you have for lights with wood and seal it. Then get an RHP. No need for uvb with ball pythons. My humidity is great every few days I dump a little of the water as I'm changing it in the cage and can stay 50 - 70 for easy 5 days without adding water. My house is super dry in the winter and it's barely made a difference compared to Summer.

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Ok that's a good reference. I am adding some coconut fiber + Cypress today. I am going to see where humidity stands after that. If i need to make a change, i will go for rhp instead of uth. It seems the safer and better option overall for wooden enclosures.

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I use all RHP's in my cages - and love them. In my opinion the best heating method ever. I have pro products RHP's which I feel are the best. Well worth the investment.

So just a small update. I added cypress + coconut fiber to the bottom and so far it seems to make a big diffenrece. I am at 70%. Its a little high since the fibers had to be soaked. I am not sure how often i would have to water the substrate but this seems to be working, even using a che. My only problem now is that my che needs replacement but easily fixed. Might end up replacing it with a rhp. I'll check into it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b6a0f0d387.jpg

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I started off just using two UTH's. My humidity would stay at around 60-70%. I added a small CHE just to bump my ambient temps a little and within 24 hours my humidity was down to 30%. I was surprised how much even a small one will dry out a tank. When my BP gets ready to shed I will turn the CHE off fir a couple days and can keep the humidity around 70%. When I am using the CHE I have to spray it once a day to keep it around 45-50%. When mine gets bigger I plan to go toe a pvc with RHP.

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Originally Posted by Midwest

I started off just using two UTH's. My humidity would stay at around 60-70%. I added a small CHE just to bump my ambient temps a little and within 24 hours my humidity was down to 30%. I was surprised how much even a small one will dry out a tank. When my BP gets ready to shed I will turn the CHE off fir a couple days and can keep the humidity around 70%. When I am using the CHE I have to spray it once a day to keep it around 45-50%. When mine gets bigger I plan to go toe a pvc with RHP.

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In a wooden enclosure ?

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Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

How do you create a hotspot in your enclosure ? With the rhp ?

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My RHP is on one side which is set up as the hot side and where I have my temperature probe. I have something on the hot side up off the substrate and that becomes the hot spot (closer to RHP) and the far side is the cool spot. My snake has about 4 places he rotates through but its usually in his hide on the hot side and roaming around every night.

I'm using a wooden viv just like yours and I'm able to get the ideal humidity by using coconut fibre and eco earth with a water bowl and a CHE.

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I have to use a decent sized water bowl but I'm using a 250 watt CHE and my humidity is between 52-60% usually. I've seen it drop as low as 47% on a particularly dry day, nothing a misting didn't fix. I also have a humid hide with moss. It's do-able using substrates that are good at holding moisture. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bfc2eb0706.jpg

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Originally Posted by Absololol

I have to use a decent sized water bowl but I'm using a 250 watt CHE and my humidity is between 52-60% usually. I've seen it drop as low as 47% on a particularly dry day, nothing a misting didn't fix. I also have a humid hide with moss. It's do-able using substrates that are good at holding moisture. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bfc2eb0706.jpg

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Excellent, that mix is pretty close to what i have in there. Mine is cypress + eco earth. It has been stable for almost 24h now so i am really happy of the results.

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My enclosure is glass but the top is covered with plexi glass (minus a cut out for the CHE). I could be wrong but thought that a glass enclosure with the top covered would hold humidity the same as any other enclosure with the top covered in a similar fashion.