Tank size questions

So I want my Lucy to be happy and healthy. What is the proper tank size for a baby or small juvenile. I have her in a 30 gal now but I bought a 55 gal tank and wanted to know if this setup would be best. I want her to have a hide on warm side and hide on cool side with water bowl in middle. The 30 gal doesn't really have space to allow this but I'm afraid the 55 is too big for her right now. Just wanted to get some opinions before I did anything. Lucy is maybe 18 to 20 in he's long now so still pretty small

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

So I want my Lucy to be happy and healthy. What is the proper tank size for a baby or small juvenile. I have her in a 30 gal now but I bought a 55 gal tank and wanted to know if this setup would be best. I want her to have a hide on warm side and hide on cool side with water bowl in middle. The 30 gal doesn't really have space to allow this but I'm afraid the 55 is too big for her right now. Just wanted to get some opinions before I did anything. Lucy is maybe 18 to 20 in he's long now so still pretty small

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Whenever they are small smaller is better. If you aren’t able to fit 2 hides in a water bowl in a 30 gallon for a baby/juvenile ball Python then you are using hides that are too large.

Ball Pythons like small spaces to feel secure so the hide should fit them pretty snuggly, not a lot of wiggle room. When they are older and more comfortable you can move them to the 55 gallon if you want but for now it would be much to big. Even the 30 gallon might be to large if you don’t fill it up with plants and such to make them feel secure


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Originally Posted by BluuWolf

Whenever they are small smaller is better. If you aren’t able to fit 2 hides in a water bowl in a 30 gallon for a baby/juvenile ball Python then you are using hides that are too large.

Ball Pythons like small spaces to feel secure so the hide should fit them pretty snuggly, not a lot of wiggle room. When they are older and more comfortable you can move them to the 55 gallon if you want but for now it would be much to big. Even the 30 gallon might be to large if you don’t fill it up with plants and such to make them feel secure


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I bought a bunch of the fake plants and leaves and put them throughout the tank. There's not much area showing when she ventures out of her hide. I bought the smallest hide they had at our local petsmart which was a Mayan temple looking thing and she seems to like it but there's no way I could fit two of those and the extra large water bowl I bought her. I wanted to be sure she had plenty of water available

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That Mayan temple thing at petsmart is way too big for a baby or juvenile BP.


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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

That Mayan temple thing at petsmart is way too big for a baby or juvenile BP.


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Again as I said, it was the smallest hide they had available, and with our small city petco is the only option we have unless I drive 200 miles to the nearest city which is st louis. She seems to like it well enough she curls up inside and seems to be spread out inside it when I lift it to take her out and handle her

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They want to be tight in their hides. Egg tight. My smaller babies start out in a plastic shoe box with yogurt containers as hides. As the grow they move up to deli cup sized things. Then the bottom of a milk carton. Then a milk carton cut lengthwise. After they outgrow that most don't need the hide but the ones that do end up with cat litter boxes.

You are going to spend a lot of money in hides for the first 2 years buying the right sized ones from stores. If you want them to look nice, get inventive and use things like flowerpots. The snake doesn't care what it looks like as long as it is tight, dark, and the right temperature.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

They want to be tight in their hides. Egg tight. My smaller babies start out in a plastic shoe box with yogurt containers as hides. As the grow they move up to deli cup sized things. Then the bottom of a milk carton. Then a milk carton cut lengthwise. After they outgrow that most don't need the hide but the ones that do end up with cat litter boxes.

You are going to spend a lot of money in hides for the first 2 years buying the right sized ones from stores. If you want them to look nice, get inventive and use things like flowerpots. The snake doesn't care what it looks like as long as it is tight, dark, and the right temperature.

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Here is what her setup looks like now, what all should I change thenhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5c610edce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...88dddc1896.jpg

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I would go buy a plastic tub, a little bigger than shoebox size, add holes, and either make 2 hides that she just fits in or buy some of the zilla durable dens
https://reptileslounge.com/products/...SABEgLug_D_BwE

Get a smaller water dish, and set up with substrate, heat mat, temp/humidity meter, and thermostat. It’s all you should need for a good while.


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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

I would go buy a plastic tub, a little bigger than shoebox size, add holes, and either make 2 hides that she just fits in or buy some of the zilla durable dens
https://reptileslounge.com/products/...SABEgLug_D_BwE

Get a smaller water dish, and set up with substrate, heat mat, temp/humidity meter, and thermostat. It’s all you should need for a good while.


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There is substrate in the tank I just bought some moss to put in tank cause I'm having trouble keeping humidity around 60% and I have 2 thermometers and humidity gauge already. Why would I need a smaller water dish? The large one should also help with humidity.

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

There is substrate in the tank I just bought some moss to put in tank cause I'm having trouble keeping humidity around 60% and I have 2 thermometers and humidity gauge already. Why would I need a smaller water dish? The large one should also help with humidity.

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Yes, tanks are VERY difficult to maintain humidity in. You would have a much better time in a tub. I realize you have substrate in the tank, just listing things you would need for a tub setup. It really is MUCH easier to maintain temps and humidity in a tub, hence the smaller dish for a smaller space. Are you using a thermoSTAT in addition to a thermoMETER? If not I would get one ASAP. Unregulated heat sources are a recipe for burns.


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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

Yes, tanks are VERY difficult to maintain humidity in. You would have a much better time in a tub. I realize you have substrate in the tank, just listing things you would need for a tub setup. It really is MUCH easier to maintain temps and humidity in a tub, hence the smaller dish for a smaller space. Are you using a thermoSTAT in addition to a thermoMETER? If not I would get one ASAP. Unregulated heat sources are a recipe for burns.


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I refuse to use UTH for that reason. I also wont use a tub. I've heard they are easier for temps and humidity but she is a beautiful and majestic animal and her tank is a centerpiece in my living room as are all of our reptiles (my husband has a tarantula and 2 scorpions) putting them in a tub just seems so impersonal and crude IMO

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

I refuse to use UTH for that reason. I also wont use a tub. I've heard they are easier for temps and humidity but she is a beautiful and majestic animal and her tank is a centerpiece in my living room as are all of our reptiles (my husband has a tarantula and 2 scorpions) putting them in a tub just seems so impersonal and crude IMO

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A lot of people have this opinion, but the nature of BPs means that, especially for young ones, being on display is stressful for them, particularly in a setup like yours. They do much better in tubs, where they can’t be seen all the time. It’s in their nature to hide, and they are easily stressed when young. It leads to feeding and behavior problems. It’s going to be almost impossible to use bulb or CHE heating in a tank like that and maintain both proper temps and humidity. Snakes are very different than inverts. Any heat source you use SHOULD be on a thermostat. The only overhead heat source I would attempt to use at the humidity level BPs require is an RHP.
I keep leopard geckos, crested geckos, a bearded dragon, and a BP. The requirements for them are vastly different, and I try to do what is best for each, not what pleases me. My bearded dragon has a beautiful 100 gal display enclosure. My crested is in a totally bio active, live planted vertical enclosure, my leopard has a custom setup in an Exo Terra. My BP is in a tub. She will eventually go in an animal plastics enclosure, but she is much more secure in the tub right now.


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Late to the game here and a little confused.


First, I agree you have a beautiful animal there. I would want to show her off too. However, I also know that glass tanks are not ideal for BP's and little ones in particular are usually very shy and need a lot of security. All BP's need proper regulated temps and humidity, unless you like sending your vet's kids to college.

If you have to make it work with a glass tank, we can help you with that, but it's an uphill battle.

There are plenty of enclosures that allow viewing the animal, but help your BP feel more secure and make it much easier to control temps and humidity properly. Boaphile Plastics and Animal Plastics are probably the two most common. I have the former and many people on here are happy with the latter.

I would get the enclosure correct temp wise and humidity wise and security wise and enjoy showing off your happy and healthy BP mostly when you take Lucy out and can allow people to view and experience/handle her.

It's been said, but all heat sources MUST be regulated by thermostat. Not should, or maybe, etc.

Too hot = neurological problems at best and death at worst.

Too cold = may not eat or won't digest properly which can lead to regurgitation; very bad.

Humidity - 55-65% with a bump in shed and with proper temps. Lack of proper temps and or humidity that is too low or too high can quickly lead to respiratory infections. That means shots, lots of $$$$$ and vet visits and a snake that will be more susceptible to RI's for the rest of its life.

Ambient temps: 80-83F

Hot side: 88-90F (90F is tops).

Cool side: 78-80F

All temps must be measured at the ground, where the snake is, and with a reliable and calibrated temp gun.

If you want to make this tank work for now:

1. Smaller water bowl - BP's don't generally soak and need fresh water to drink and to help maintain humidity.

2. Two equal size hides - One on the warm side and one on the cool side. http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box http://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

The links above are ideal and cheap hides. Easy to clean as well. You want the small for now, but will need medium, and large, later.

A trick to make hides feel more secure if they are a little too big - not massively too big - is to crumble up some paper towels and stick them in/under the hide. This helps block out light and makes the snake feel more secure. I have a tiny baby corn snake (in addition to the rest of my reptile collection - including a BP) and even the mini hides are a little too big for her still. Half a sheet of crumbled up paper towel and she is happy as a clam. She can borrow under and in the paper towels in her dark hide and feel very safe.

3. Thermostat. Get one that you can grow with. At least 2 devices capable. https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76 https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=26

4. UTH - I prefer for hot side ASSUMING it is regulated, but I already said all heating devices must be, so I am probably being redundant. The probe for the thermostat goes between the UTH and the glass bottom of the tank. Do not set and forget. All heating sources will need to be checked regularly and sometimes adjusted. When you first set them up, you will notice there is most likely a discrepancy between the temp where the probe is and ground temps where the snake is. Adjust accordingly. It may read 90F on the UTH probe, but be 88F at the tank bottom, or 93F, etc.

5. CHE for ambient temps and maybe a little warm side temp. Again, regulated by thermostat. I prefer RHP but in a glass tank, that isn't happening. CHE's work well in this application.

In a 30G - if you do the above and place the CHE middle to slightly closer to the hot side, and it's 84F below and 88F on the UTH, it should be about 78F on the cool side as well. It all depends on room temps, etc. You might need to adjust placement of the CHE.

Wishing you the best of luck and hoping you better understand the needs of beautiful Lucy now.

Feel free to ask for clarification or about anything else you need help with.

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Originally Posted by dakski

Late to the game here and a little confused.


First, I agree you have a beautiful animal there. I would want to show her off too. However, I also know that glass tanks are not ideal for BP's and little ones in particular are usually very shy and need a lot of security. All BP's need proper regulated temps and humidity, unless you like sending your vet's kids to college.

If you have to make it work with a glass tank, we can help you with that, but it's an uphill battle.

There are plenty of enclosures that allow viewing the animal, but help your BP feel more secure and make it much easier to control temps and humidity properly. Boaphile Plastics and Animal Plastics are probably the two most common. I have the former and many people on here are happy with the latter.

I would get the enclosure correct temp wise and humidity wise and security wise and enjoy showing off your happy and healthy BP mostly when you take Lucy out and can allow people to view and experience/handle her.

It's been said, but all heat sources MUST be regulated by thermostat. Not should, or maybe, etc.

Too hot = neurological problems at best and death at worst.

Too cold = may not eat or won't digest properly which can lead to regurgitation; very bad.

Humidity - 55-65% with a bump in shed and with proper temps. Lack of proper temps and or humidity that is too low or too high can quickly lead to respiratory infections. That means shots, lots of $$$$$ and vet visits and a snake that will be more susceptible to RI's for the rest of its life.

Ambient temps: 80-83F

Hot side: 88-90F (90F is tops).

Cool side: 78-80F

All temps must be measured at the ground, where the snake is, and with a reliable and calibrated temp gun.

If you want to make this tank work for now:

1. Smaller water bowl - BP's don't generally soak and need fresh water to drink and to help maintain humidity.

2. Two equal size hides - One on the warm side and one on the cool side. http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box http://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

The links above are ideal and cheap hides. Easy to clean as well. You want the small for now, but will need medium, and large, later.

A trick to make hides feel more secure if they are a little too big - not massively too big - is to crumble up some paper towels and stick them in/under the hide. This helps block out light and makes the snake feel more secure. I have a tiny baby corn snake (in addition to the rest of my reptile collection - including a BP) and even the mini hides are a little too big for her still. Half a sheet of crumbled up paper towel and she is happy as a clam. She can borrow under and in the paper towels in her dark hide and feel very safe.

3. Thermostat. Get one that you can grow with. At least 2 devices capable. https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76 https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=26

4. UTH - I prefer for hot side ASSUMING it is regulated, but I already said all heating devices must be, so I am probably being redundant. The probe for the thermostat goes between the UTH and the glass bottom of the tank. Do not set and forget. All heating sources will need to be checked regularly and sometimes adjusted. When you first set them up, you will notice there is most likely a discrepancy between the temp where the probe is and ground temps where the snake is. Adjust accordingly. It may read 90F on the UTH probe, but be 88F at the tank bottom, or 93F, etc.

5. CHE for ambient temps and maybe a little warm side temp. Again, regulated by thermostat. I prefer RHP but in a glass tank, that isn't happening. CHE's work well in this application.

In a 30G - if you do the above and place the CHE middle to slightly closer to the hot side, and it's 84F below and 88F on the UTH, it should be about 78F on the cool side as well. It all depends on room temps, etc. You might need to adjust placement of the CHE.

Wishing you the best of luck and hoping you better understand the needs of beautiful Lucy now.

Feel free to ask for clarification or about anything else you need help with.

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I understood the basics because I had a regular ball python for 8 years before my exes sister killed her in a house fire while we were on vacation (long story but broke my heart and life happened so I never got around to getting another until now)

So let me explain a bit more what's going on with Lucy.

I was never a fan of UTH but will if I need to. I never used a glass type aquairium with Zeke (my last nake) I bought the acrylic terrerrium which seemed to hold humidity and heat better.

Currently Lucy has the two bulb type lamps for heat with zoo med thermometers. Hot side stays about 80 to 85 and cold side around 75.

Humidity is staying around 40 to 60% and that's with the moss I put in and daily misting and I'm considering getting a reptifogger or Exxo terra misting unit if need be.

I do have two probe type digital thermometers to keep an eye on temps. I also have the.

I will pick her up another hide tomorrow for cool side.

If absolutely necessary I will buy another cage but really prefer not to

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

I understood the basics because I had a regular ball python for 8 years before my exes sister killed her in a house fire while we were on vacation (long story but broke my heart and life happened so I never got around to getting another until now)

So let me explain a bit more what's going on with Lucy.

I was never a fan of UTH but will if I need to. I never used a glass type aquairium with Zeke (my last nake) I bought the acrylic terrerrium which seemed to hold humidity and heat better.

Currently Lucy has the two bulb type lamps for heat with zoo med thermometers. Hot side stays about 80 to 85 and cold side around 75.

Humidity is staying around 40 to 60% and that's with the moss I put in and daily misting and I'm considering getting a reptifogger or Exxo terra misting unit if need be.

I do have two probe type digital thermometers to keep an eye on temps. I also have the.

I will pick her up another hide tomorrow for cool side.

If absolutely necessary I will buy another cage but really prefer not to

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80-85F is a significant temp fluctuation. Is that for your hot spot surface temp or ambient? Keep in mind the most accurate way to measure surface temps is with a temp gun, the wired thermoMETERS will not be as precise as they are more designed to measure ambient temps.


Are the heat lamps regulated by a thermoSTAT? I'm only seeing you mention thermoMETERSs.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

80-85F is a significant temp fluctuation. Is that for your hot spot surface temp or ambient? Keep in mind the most accurate way to measure surface temps is with a temp gun, the wired thermoMETERS will not be as precise as they are more designed to measure ambient temps.


Are the heat lamps regulated by a thermoSTAT? I'm only seeing you mention thermoMETERSs.

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Yes I purchased two zoomed 1000w thermostats

80-85F is the hot side

The overall temp in the cage is around 80F

The two probe type thermometers I have are buried under at least 2inches of substrate which is how I always did it with my last snake and maybe I was lucky then but Zeke never had a RI or any type of illness.

So I guess tomorrow I'll go and get a UTH and another hide

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Yes I purchased two zoomed 1000w thermostats

80-85F is the hot side

The overall temp in the cage is around 80F

The two probe type thermometers I have are buried under at least 2inches of substrate which is how I always did it with my last snake and maybe I was lucky then but Zeke never had a RI or any type of illness.

So I guess tomorrow I'll go and get a UTH and another hide

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First, 80-85F is a good gradient from cool to hot, but not enough for proper digestion for a hot spot. Hot spot should be about 88F up to 90F for proper digestion and health.

Not clear whether or not the probes are just for thermometers or for the thermostats too. However, probes for thermostats should not be buried where an animal can spill on them, waste on them, move them, etc. To get accurate ground temps, you must use a temp gun! Do not rely on air thermometers.

Yes, please get or order another hide that's good for a BP. Preferably two. You want identical hides so Lucy never chooses safety and security over proper thermoregulation.

I put links for really good, cheap, and easy to clean hides, in my last post.

Zoomed Thermostats will hold you over, but are not ideal. Please consider getting a proper thermostat that can run multiple devices, or two thermostats if you want it to be more complex.

Any thermostat can freeze open, but I've heard mixed things on the zoomed.

I would also consider, if keeping the 30G for now, blocking off 3 of the walls of the tank with cardboard or black window liner, etc. You can get a roll of black window inserts for under $10 on amazon. Home depot probably sells as well.

Lucy will feel much more secure and less exposed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

First, 80-85F is a good gradient from cool to hot, but not enough for proper digestion for a hot spot. Hot spot should be about 88F up to 90F for proper digestion and health.

Not clear whether or not the probes are just for thermometers or for the thermostats too. However, probes for thermostats should not be buried where an animal can spill on them, waste on them, move them, etc. To get accurate ground temps, you must use a temp gun! Do not rely on air thermometers.

Yes, please get or order another hide that's good for a BP. Preferably two. You want identical hides so Lucy never chooses safety and security over proper thermoregulation.

I put links for really good, cheap, and easy to clean hides, in my last post.

Zoomed Thermostats will hold you over, but are not ideal. Please consider getting a proper thermostat that can run multiple devices, or two thermostats if you want it to be more complex.

Any thermostat can freeze open, but I've heard mixed things on the zoomed.

I would also consider, if keeping the 30G for now, blocking off 3 of the walls of the tank with cardboard or black window liner, etc. You can get a roll of black window inserts for under $10 on amazon. Home depot probably sells as well.

Lucy will feel much more secure and less exposed.

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Should I invest in the repti fogger or Exxo terra monsoon misting system to help with humidity control?

I took your advice and got her identical hides and the backdrop to cover 3 sides.

I got an UTH controlled by it's own zoomed thermostat until I can afford the more expensive one



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Should I invest in the repti fogger or Exxo terra monsoon misting system to help with humidity control?

I took your advice and got her identical hides and the backdrop to cover 3 sides.

I got an UTH controlled by it's own zoomed thermostat until I can afford the more expensive one



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Good you got a UTH to up the hot side temps and that it's being controlled by a thermostat. To be clear, there is a probe for the thermostat attached, correct? It's not a UTH with, essentially, a dimmer on it, correct? If so, you still need to plug into your zoomed thermostat until you can get a better one down the road.

Nice work on the backdrop and identical hides. A happy secure snake is a good eating snake and, usually, at least with BP's, a pretty calm and docile snake.

Good question on humidity. It's up there in importance with temperature. Misting systems have pros and cons. A big con with them is that the mist is usually cooler than the air temp and brings down temps. Cold and damp are not good. They also need hydrometer to tell them when to run and to keep them from making things too humid or not humid enough. That's another cost.

I would recommend covering the top of the tank with tin foil (safer than a towel, for example, if you have a CHE, etc) aside from where the CHE is. I'd also look at your substrate. What are you using?

Make the tin foil as tight as possible over the screen and that will help keep humidity in.

Misting with a regular water bottle sprayer/plant mister from home depot for $1 can work, but don't overdue it, and USE WARM WATER. When it's a little dry in the winter, I mist my Boaphile tanks with my humid residents (BCI and BP), every day or two (as needed) but fill the water sprayer with hot tap water. Not boiling etc. But 110-120F tap water (thats about as hot as my tap water gets). Then I spray before it cools down. On mist, the water drops temp substantially when coming out of the spray bottle. 110F = 80F when misting. Never mist with room temp or cold water.

Another option is to use cypress mulch or Sphagmum moss, or a mix, over or mixed in with your substrate. A little goes a long way and can hold humidity well when pre-moistened (by you). You also put in a little dish, etc. to help raise humidity.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Fores.../dp/B0010OVM7A

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labor.../dp/B0019J2MA2

Keep us in the loop on your progress and continue to ask questions as needed. We are here to help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Good you got a UTH to up the hot side temps and that it's being controlled by a thermostat. To be clear, there is a probe for the thermostat attached, correct? It's not a UTH with, essentially, a dimmer on it, correct? If so, you still need to plug into your zoomed thermostat until you can get a better one down the road.

Nice work on the backdrop and identical hides. A happy secure snake is a good eating snake and, usually, at least with BP's, a pretty calm and docile snake.

Good question on humidity. It's up there in importance with temperature. Misting systems have pros and cons. A big con with them is that the mist is usually cooler than the air temp and brings down temps. Cold and damp are not good. They also need hydrometer to tell them when to run and to keep them from making things too humid or not humid enough. That's another cost.

I would recommend covering the top of the tank with tin foil (safer than a towel, for example, if you have a CHE, etc) aside from where the CHE is. I'd also look at your substrate. What are you using?

Make the tin foil as tight as possible over the screen and that will help keep humidity in.

Misting with a regular water bottle sprayer/plant mister from home depot for $1 can work, but don't overdue it, and USE WARM WATER. When it's a little dry in the winter, I mist my Boaphile tanks with my humid residents (BCI and BP), every day or two (as needed) but fill the water sprayer with hot tap water. Not boiling etc. But 110-120F tap water (thats about as hot as my tap water gets). Then I spray before it cools down. On mist, the water drops temp substantially when coming out of the spray bottle. 110F = 80F when misting. Never mist with room temp or cold water.

Another option is to use cypress mulch or Sphagmum moss, or a mix, over or mixed in with your substrate. A little goes a long way and can hold humidity well when pre-moistened (by you). You also put in a little dish, etc. to help raise humidity.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Fores.../dp/B0010OVM7A

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labor.../dp/B0019J2MA2

Keep us in the loop on your progress and continue to ask questions as needed. We are here to help.

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The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side.

As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out.

Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F

Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck

I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side.

As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out.

Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F

Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck

I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank.

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"The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side."

Okay, so it's a dimmer, not a thermostat. Use the dimmer to limit upper temp range if you want (you can set a few degrees above necessary temp as an added precaution in case the thermostat fails open), but use the thermostat for a proper cutoff.

Again, do not bury the thermostat probe in the substrate. For UTH - between bottom of the tank and the UTH on the OUTSIDE of the tank. For CHE, etc. a few inches below the heating element in the tank. Probe temps will differ from actual temps. Could read 90F at probe near heating element and be 80F below. You have to make small adjustments until you get it right.

Probes in substrate can get wet from waste, water spilling, misting, etc. This will change the reading and can make for dangerous temps.

Always use a laser temp gun ($14 from home depot) for accurate ground temps. Do not rely on air thermometers or probe temps from thermostats.

I would recommend making all this adjustments until it's just fine tuning (within a 1F or so adjustments) without Lucy in the tank. Put her in a holding container for a few hours while you work out the temps and get them dialed in. Then check very regularly for a while until you have it down.


"As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out."


I haven't used eco earth, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. I believe CEDAR is toxic and Aspen shavings are fine. However, I don't use either, and again, someone else can chime in definitively.

Plexiglass with holes could work, but you would have to work it around the lamps or CHE (more on this in a minute) or cut a whole in it for the lamp fixture.


"Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F"

Not sure who Nick is, but CHE, like any heating device, are all fine if appropriate wattage AND CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT.

100W is probably way too high for a 30G as is 150W red bulb. I would recommend a 60W CHE and a small LED light if you want day/night. Red lights are still lights to a BP.

Having some light in day and no light at night = Day/night cycle.

"Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck"


BP's are nocturnal; hide and sleep all day and active at night is totally normal.

How long have you had her? How many times has she eaten for you now?

BP's are shy creatures, and even after many years of handling, most won't tolerate an hour, certainly not regularly.

My BP is docile and calm and is 6 years old. I've had her since she fit in the palm of my hand. If I took her out for an hour, she would have given me plenty of signals that was too much. I usually take her out 10-15 minutes tops for handling. Can I/have I gone longer, yes, but not often. She always rushes right back into a hide and curls up as soon as I put her back.

The rule of thumb for young/new BP's is 3 feedings in them before handling. They can be picky with eating, especially if stressed and/or husbandry isn't correct, which you are working on. Get everything right and then leave her alone until she's eaten 3 meals in a row. Only take her out for tank cleaning, etc.

Also, try not to handle on the day of feeding and for at least 24 hours after eating.

"I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank."

Okay and okay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

"The UTH does not have any probe or anything. There is a probe attached to the zoomed thermostat which I buried about halfway under substrate underneath the hide on the hot side."

Okay, so it's a dimmer, not a thermostat. Use the dimmer to limit upper temp range if you want (you can set a few degrees above necessary temp as an added precaution in case the thermostat fails open), but use the thermostat for a proper cutoff.

Again, do not bury the thermostat probe in the substrate. For UTH - between bottom of the tank and the UTH on the OUTSIDE of the tank. For CHE, etc. a few inches below the heating element in the tank. Probe temps will differ from actual temps. Could read 90F at probe near heating element and be 80F below. You have to make small adjustments until you get it right.

Probes in substrate can get wet from waste, water spilling, misting, etc. This will change the reading and can make for dangerous temps.

Always use a laser temp gun ($14 from home depot) for accurate ground temps. Do not rely on air thermometers or probe temps from thermostats.

I would recommend making all this adjustments until it's just fine tuning (within a 1F or so adjustments) without Lucy in the tank. Put her in a holding container for a few hours while you work out the temps and get them dialed in. Then check very regularly for a while until you have it down.


"As for substrate, I am using eco earth about 4 inches deep with sphagnum moss on top about a loose inch or two. I was always told NO wood shavings of ANY kind cause they can cause RI's and that was told to me by my friend who bought me my first BP and he was a herp major in college.

I will try the tin foil and was also reading about plexiglass with the holes cut out."


I haven't used eco earth, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. I believe CEDAR is toxic and Aspen shavings are fine. However, I don't use either, and again, someone else can chime in definitively.

Plexiglass with holes could work, but you would have to work it around the lamps or CHE (more on this in a minute) or cut a whole in it for the lamp fixture.


"Now the CHE I'm assuming that's a ceramic element which again I was told by Nick they were dangerous so I opted to buy what he said which was a 100w day bulb and a 150w red bulb for night as it simulates a day/night cycle so is this okay in place of a ceramic element? I have the thermostat on cool side set to shut off at 80F"

Not sure who Nick is, but CHE, like any heating device, are all fine if appropriate wattage AND CONTROLLED BY A THERMOSTAT.

100W is probably way too high for a 30G as is 150W red bulb. I would recommend a 60W CHE and a small LED light if you want day/night. Red lights are still lights to a BP.

Having some light in day and no light at night = Day/night cycle.

"Lucy seems to be fine she hides during the day and explores at night. She seems to love the hour that I get her out at night and let her roam on my arms or neck"


BP's are nocturnal; hide and sleep all day and active at night is totally normal.

How long have you had her? How many times has she eaten for you now?

BP's are shy creatures, and even after many years of handling, most won't tolerate an hour, certainly not regularly.

My BP is docile and calm and is 6 years old. I've had her since she fit in the palm of my hand. If I took her out for an hour, she would have given me plenty of signals that was too much. I usually take her out 10-15 minutes tops for handling. Can I/have I gone longer, yes, but not often. She always rushes right back into a hide and curls up as soon as I put her back.

The rule of thumb for young/new BP's is 3 feedings in them before handling. They can be picky with eating, especially if stressed and/or husbandry isn't correct, which you are working on. Get everything right and then leave her alone until she's eaten 3 meals in a row. Only take her out for tank cleaning, etc.

Also, try not to handle on the day of feeding and for at least 24 hours after eating.

"I also kept the temple hides and just bought another but packed some dry moss inside so she fits more 'snug' to make sure she feels secure and I spread out the fake plants so if she does roam around she can easily hide if she gets scared.

I'll try the misting with a bottle first to see if that helps and I'm off to walmart tomorrow to get the digital humidity gauge for her tank."

Okay and okay.

---

Ok so there may be some confusion. The UTH is a reptitherm for a 30 gal size. There is no probe, no dial, nothing just the heater and a plug. I plugged the UTH into a 1000w Zilla temperature controller (TC) now the TC will switch on and off whatever heat source is plugged into it when it reaches the desired temp. I did go ahead and take the TC probe out from underneath the substrate. I buried it underneath the substrate because that's what the instructions had said to do.

I will go and get the ceramic for heat and a blue light although the research I've done has said snakes don't see light in the red spectrum. I can for sure get a smaller wattage of bulb.

Lucy has eaten for me 4 times now. She eats every Friday around 5pm.

I do know the not handling after eating, I give her a good 48 hours after food before I even think about handling. The only time she gets touched after eating is to transfer her back to tank from feeding tub

I do know they are nocturnal creatures which is why she only comes out at night which is good for me because I sleep during the day cause I work nights.

Her temps and everything have been fine so far just been fine tuning and getting the extra equipment such as UTH but according to thermometer which I have a temp gun and have had one to spot check temps since I've had her was always under the impression that the digital temp probe was a better for keeping an eye on temps inside her hide because I don't want to go in a couple times a day and lift the hide to check temps



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

So I want my Lucy to be happy and healthy. What is the proper tank size for a baby or small juvenile. I have her in a 30 gal now but I bought a 55 gal tank and wanted to know if this setup would be best. I want her to have a hide on warm side and hide on cool side with water bowl in middle. The 30 gal doesn't really have space to allow this but I'm afraid the 55 is too big for her right now. Just wanted to get some opinions before I did anything. Lucy is maybe 18 to 20 in he's long now so still pretty small

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I'm a little late replying, but just read through the whole thread and the others have covered basically everything I would have said.

One other thing that caught my eye though: is the 55 gallon a traditional size 55? Is it 48" wide, 12" deep and 18" tall? If so, it unfortunately won't make a good BP enclosure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Ok so there may be some confusion. The UTH is a reptitherm for a 30 gal size. There is no probe, no dial, nothing just the heater and a plug. I plugged the UTH into a 1000w Zilla temperature controller (TC) now the TC will switch on and off whatever heat source is plugged into it when it reaches the desired temp. I did go ahead and take the TC probe out from underneath the substrate. I buried it underneath the substrate because that's what the instructions had said to do.

I will go and get the ceramic for heat and a blue light although the research I've done has said snakes don't see light in the red spectrum. I can for sure get a smaller wattage of bulb.

Lucy has eaten for me 4 times now. She eats every Friday around 5pm.

I do know the not handling after eating, I give her a good 48 hours after food before I even think about handling. The only time she gets touched after eating is to transfer her back to tank from feeding tub

I do know they are nocturnal creatures which is why she only comes out at night which is good for me because I sleep during the day cause I work nights.

Her temps and everything have been fine so far just been fine tuning and getting the extra equipment such as UTH but according to thermometer which I have a temp gun and have had one to spot check temps since I've had her was always under the impression that the digital temp probe was a better for keeping an eye on temps inside her hide because I don't want to go in a couple times a day and lift the hide to check temps



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Ckenney35,

Thank you for the clarification. I am also on the east coast and it was getting late and I was getting punchy.

Really good she's been eating for you; I wasn't clear on that.

Cool that you work nights and are on her schedule!

I've heard mixed things on the red bulbs. I've heard they can't see it and some say they can still see it is light. I know Shayna, my BP, seemed more willing to eat and hunt, etc. when I removed the red light I had. I had read the same thing, that they were fine.

Not sure if blue is better. Another alternative could be to keep the red light but put on a dimmer so the light is pretty low.

If you don't want to lift a hide and bother her, you can really quick spray the laser into the hide towards the ground and get a quick reading that way. Not as accurate, but can do in a pinch if you don't want to bother her. Just make sure she's not looking for food!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Ok so there may be some confusion. The UTH is a reptitherm for a 30 gal size. There is no probe, no dial, nothing just the heater and a plug. I plugged the UTH into a 1000w Zilla temperature controller (TC) now the TC will switch on and off whatever heat source is plugged into it when it reaches the desired temp. I did go ahead and take the TC probe out from underneath the substrate. I buried it underneath the substrate because that's what the instructions had said to do.

I will go and get the ceramic for heat and a blue light although the research I've done has said snakes don't see light in the red spectrum. I can for sure get a smaller wattage of bulb.

Lucy has eaten for me 4 times now. She eats every Friday around 5pm.

I do know the not handling after eating, I give her a good 48 hours after food before I even think about handling. The only time she gets touched after eating is to transfer her back to tank from feeding tub

I do know they are nocturnal creatures which is why she only comes out at night which is good for me because I sleep during the day cause I work nights.

Her temps and everything have been fine so far just been fine tuning and getting the extra equipment such as UTH but according to thermometer which I have a temp gun and have had one to spot check temps since I've had her was always under the impression that the digital temp probe was a better for keeping an eye on temps inside her hide because I don't want to go in a couple times a day and lift the hide to check temps



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Did you put the probe between the UTH and the glass, or just unbury it? Between the UTH and the glass is the only way to assure the glass doesn't get too hot and burn your baby.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

Did you put the probe between the UTH and the glass, or just unbury it? Between the UTH and the glass is the only way to assure the glass doesn't get too hot and burn your baby.

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The instructions clearly say in big red letters not to let the probe come in direct contact with the heat source

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

The instructions clearly say in big red letters not to let the probe come in direct contact with the heat source

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I’ve never seen a thermostat say that. if it does then it’s not the appropriate thermostat for this application. a probe on top of 4 inches of substrate means It will never reach temperature and the heat mat will run constantly your snake will borrow down into the substrate and burn themselves on the glass

We aren’t trying to give you a hard time, honestly. We just want the best for you and your baby. Your best bet is to get a thermostat that will do what you need. A jumpstart is about $35 on Amazon, and that will get you started. It isn’t proportional but is fairly reliable short term. For a little more than $100 you can get a herpstat ez2 and put both heat sources on it. That would be your best bet.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

The instructions clearly say in big red letters not to let the probe come in direct contact with the heat source

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Again, Zoomed is not known for their thermostats or thermostat quality. It's an afterthought product for them and should only be used until you can get a proper thermostat from someone like Spyder Robotics - I put links to their herpstat products in my original post.

Here is a link to the probe placement manual for the herpstatez2. It clearly states what we've all been saying about probe placement and contradicts the instructions you have.

http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index....id=9&chapter=1

We are speaking from experience and with facts to back it up as well. We want Lucy to be happy and healthy, just like you.

Please try not to get defensive. We have your best interests at heart and are spending a lot of time trying to help you. This is purely from the kindness of our hearts and wanting what is best for you and Lucy for a lifetime. We are not compensated in any way, nor do we get the time we put in back. We are trying to help. Please keep that in mind.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Again, Zoomed is not known for their thermostats or thermostat quality. It's an afterthought product for them and should only be used until you can get a proper thermostat from someone like Spyder Robotics - I put links to their herpstat products in my original post.

Here is a link to the probe placement manual for the herpstatez2. It clearly states what we've all been saying about probe placement and contradicts the instructions you have.

http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index....id=9&chapter=1

We are speaking from experience and with facts to back it up as well. We want Lucy to be happy and healthy, just like you.

Please try not to get defensive. We have your best interests at heart and are spending a lot of time trying to help you. This is purely from the kindness of our hearts and wanting what is best for you and Lucy for a lifetime. We are not compensated in any way, nor do we get the time we put in back. We are trying to help. Please keep that in mind.

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Please don't get me wrong, I'm not being rude or defensive in any way and if it came off that way I'm sorry. I appreciate the help and your guys time. I'm doing the best with what I have near me since I live in such a small town. Literally 2 hours away from any major city. I'm going to the city on the 19th for a reptile show so I'll see if they have any items you listed there as well.

The spider robotics seems very expensive and I won't be able to order that for a pay period or two. I am willing to work the overtime to buy it if need be.

I want Lucy to be happy and healthy and she seems happy, we will find out for sure in about a half hour or so cause that's feeding time.

I will place the probe like you said and I will find the instructions wherever I put them and post a picture of the instructions to show you.

I've looked up and seen mixed reviews on the zoo med thermostats and they seem like they will do until I can save for the more expensive ones.

I think I've decided to just lose the battle with the glass enclosure and buy either one of the Exxo Terra terrerriums or something like that. I know you guys say the ones you listed are best but I would like to still have Lucy on display as well and I really can't afford to buy the who rack for just one snake.

Can't really say with all the validity in the world but exxo terra claims to have put allot of research into their tanks and say they are suitable for all reptiles

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Please don't get me wrong, I'm not being rude or defensive in any way and if it came off that way I'm sorry. I appreciate the help and your guys time. I'm doing the best with what I have near me since I live in such a small town. Literally 2 hours away from any major city. I'm going to the city on the 19th for a reptile show so I'll see if they have any items you listed there as well.

The spider robotics seems very expensive and I won't be able to order that for a pay period or two. I am willing to work the overtime to buy it if need be.

I want Lucy to be happy and healthy and she seems happy, we will find out for sure in about a half hour or so cause that's feeding time.

I will place the probe like you said and I will find the instructions wherever I put them and post a picture of the instructions to show you.

I've looked up and seen mixed reviews on the zoo med thermostats and they seem like they will do until I can save for the more expensive ones.

I think I've decided to just lose the battle with the glass enclosure and buy either one of the Exxo Terra terrerriums or something like that. I know you guys say the ones you listed are best but I would like to still have Lucy on display as well and I really can't afford to buy the who rack for just one snake.

Can't really say with all the validity in the world but exxo terra claims to have put allot of research into their tanks and say they are suitable for all reptiles

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If I were spending the money, I would go with animal plastics over Exo Terra. I own 3 Exo Terra’s. They are really just a nicer version of a glass aquarium. You are going to have the same difficulty regulating in one. They work well for a lot of reptiles, just not BPs. My leopard geckos do well in them as does my crested gecko, but when you need both heat and humidity, they aren’t ideal. You would need a 36x18x12 exoterra for an adult snake, and that runs about $200. A similarly sized animal plastics enclosure will cost $190 shipped. It would still allow you to display your girl.


I am in a similar situation to you as far as access to stores. I really only have Petsmart and one small local store. I order almost everything online.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

I think I've decided to just lose the battle with the glass enclosure and buy either one of the Exxo Terra terrerriums or something like that. I know you guys say the ones you listed are best but I would like to still have Lucy on display as well and I really can't afford to buy the who rack for just one snake.
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Even PVC cages? You can still have plenty of display with Animal Plastic cages with the added benefit of maintaining humidity! Plus easier to install RHP's and cheaper than glass tanks by far :) Win-Win! And you will love love love them! Here's my set up in a T12 (currently divided in half) and you can see it showcases plenty!
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...7aso1_1280.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

If I were spending the money, I would go with animal plastics over Exo Terra. I own 3 Exo Terra’s. They are really just a nicer version of a glass aquarium. You are going to have the same difficulty regulating in one. They work well for a lot of reptiles, just not BPs. My leopard geckos do well in them as does my crested gecko, but when you need both heat and humidity, they aren’t ideal. You would need a 36x18x12 exoterra for an adult snake, and that runs about $200. A similarly sized animal plastics enclosure will cost $190 shipped. It would still allow you to display your girl.


I am in a similar situation to you as far as access to stores. I really only have Petsmart and one small local store. I order almost everything online.

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Ok so assuming I bought the animal plastics cage. I'm looking at the terrestrial cage for her correct?

1. I assume I have to have them pre cut the screen on top for CHE correct?

2. I do like I can have them add LED Lighting but I can always buy LED Lighting and install myself that way I can add the color changing bulbs to have a day/night cycle

3. Should I just spend the extra and have them add the heat tape? Because i do not see how or where I would put the UTH because it's plastic and not glass

4. Will she need the screen vent on top

5. Will she need the basking shelf

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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckenney35

Ok so assuming I bought the animal plastics cage. I'm looking at the terrestrial cage for her correct?

1. I assume I have to have them pre cut the screen on top for CHE correct?

2. I do like I can have them add LED Lighting but I can always buy LED Lighting and install myself that way I can add the color changing bulbs to have a day/night cycle

3. Should I just spend the extra and have them add the heat tape? Because i do not see how or where I would put the UTH because it's plastic and not glass

4. Will she need the screen vent on top

5. Will she need the basking shelf

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1. I assume I have to have them pre cut the screen on top for CHE correct?

No, you do not want the screen top. Bad for humidity. Have them install a RHP instead. Takes away way less humidity and easier to control temps and will be cheaper in the long-run. You can call and request this. They work with Bob at pro-products for this.

2. I do like I can have them add LED Lighting but I can always buy LED Lighting and install myself that way I can add the color changing bulbs to have a day/night cycle

Easier if they install. Can be a pain after the fact. However, I think there are threads on here where people have done after the fact. Not sure where. Anyone have experience with LED's in AP's after having the cage and not installed by AP?

3. Should I just spend the extra and have them add the heat tape? Because i do not see how or where I would put the UTH because it's plastic and not glass

I like both heat tape and RHP working together off the same thermostat. That's what I do. Many say RHP is enough, but I like redundancy and I also like belly heat. Get the heat tape and a RHP and run off one thermostat. The incremental cost is worth it to be future proof and redundant.

4. Will she need the screen vent on top

No.

5. Will she need the basking shelf

No.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Ok so assuming I bought the animal plastics cage. I'm looking at the terrestrial cage for her correct?

1. I assume I have to have them pre cut the screen on top for CHE correct?

2. I do like I can have them add LED Lighting but I can always buy LED Lighting and install myself that way I can add the color changing bulbs to have a day/night cycle

3. Should I just spend the extra and have them add the heat tape? Because i do not see how or where I would put the UTH because it's plastic and not glass

4. Will she need the screen vent on top

5. Will she need the basking shelf

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A lot depends on your room temps, but I would NOT go with a CHE. A RHP is about $100 but well worth the money. As a previous poster said you can run an RHP without the heat tape, or use both. There is nothing special you have to do to install. It goes right on the bottom just like a glass tank. It won’t damage the PVC. AP even cuts a notch for the temp probe.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

1. I assume I have to have them pre cut the screen on top for CHE correct?

No, you do not want the screen top. Bad for humidity. Have them install a RHP instead. Takes away way less humidity and easier to control temps and will be cheaper in the long-run. You can call and request this. They work with Bob at pro-products for this.

2. I do like I can have them add LED Lighting but I can always buy LED Lighting and install myself that way I can add the color changing bulbs to have a day/night cycle

Easier if they install. Can be a pain after the fact. However, I think there are threads on here where people have done after the fact. Not sure where. Anyone have experience with LED's in AP's after having the cage and not installed by AP?

3. Should I just spend the extra and have them add the heat tape? Because i do not see how or where I would put the UTH because it's plastic and not glass

I like both heat tape and RHP working together off the same thermostat. That's what I do. Many say RHP is enough, but I like redundancy and I also like belly heat. Get the heat tape and a RHP and run off one thermostat. The incremental cost is worth it to be future proof and redundant.

4. Will she need the screen vent on top

No.

5. Will she need the basking shelf

No.

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That gives me a bit to think about but $500 is going to be a bit of a wait unfortunately. I will have to work quite a bit of overtime for that. It's doable but maybe not for a couple months

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

That gives me a bit to think about but $500 is going to be a bit of a wait unfortunately. I will have to work quite a bit of overtime for that. It's doable but maybe not for a couple months

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I am currently saving for an AP setup. I am using a tub for now. My Astrid won’t be ready for a bigger space for a long time. She is only about 90g now. She should be good where she is to at least 300g.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

I am currently saving for an AP setup. I am using a tub for now. My Astrid won’t be ready for a bigger space for a long time. She is only about 90g now. She should be good where she is to at least 300g.


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Then what would be the best thing to do to regulate humidity till then...mist every few hours or get a misting system

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Then what would be the best thing to do to regulate humidity till then...mist every few hours or get a misting system

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I honestly don’t know. It’s very difficult to get right in an aquarium. The first thing I would try would be misting down the substrate well and covering the top with foil or plastic.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

That gives me a bit to think about but $500 is going to be a bit of a wait unfortunately. I will have to work quite a bit of overtime for that. It's doable but maybe not for a couple months

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Understood, but worth it when you can afford it.

At her size, she can stay in the 30g for a while. We will help with humidity.

Mist substrate with warm water in sprayer. Cover top with foil. See where you are.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

Then what would be the best thing to do to regulate humidity till then...mist every few hours or get a misting systemSent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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It is not impossible to maintain humidity in a tank. I keep my only BP in a 40 gallon (I think?). I regulate humidity by keeping his water bowl full and covering the screen lid. The screen is covered in several layers of tin foil and tape (NEVER put tape inside the enclosure, this is just on the outside of his screen). It was so effective that I don't have to mist (apart from when he's in shed).

You can also get a coconut-based substrate like repti-chip or eco earth. They hold humidity well.

It IS POSSIBLE to maintain temps and humidity in a tank, but it is harder sometimes, and if you are okay with spending the money, I'd get a better enclosure.

Can you get someone to change the start of your thread ?

You start with its not possible but half way through say it is possible ..


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Originally Posted by 55fingers

It is not impossible to maintain humidity in a tank. I keep my only BP in a 40 gallon (I think?). I regulate humidity by keeping his water bowl full and covering the screen lid. The screen is covered in several layers of tin foil and tape (NEVER put tape inside the enclosure, this is just on the outside of his screen). It was so effective that I don't have to mist (apart from when he's in shed).

You can also get a coconut-based substrate like repti-chip or eco earth. They hold humidity well.

It IS POSSIBLE to maintain temps and humidity in a tank, but it is harder sometimes, and if you are okay with spending the money, I'd get a better enclosure.

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I bought eco earth and the humidity is still staying around 50%

I put some tin foil on the top today and I'm going to go get some plexi glass to.orrow for the top

I'm going to get some black foam board tomorrow also cause I hear it helps hold in heat and humidity

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Can you get someone to change the start of your thread ?

You start with its not possible but half way through say it is possible ..


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I'm confused say what's not possible and then say it's possible?

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

I bought eco earth and the humidity is still staying around 50%

I put some tin foil on the top today and I'm going to go get some plexi glass to.orrow for the top

I'm going to get some black foam board tomorrow also cause I hear it helps hold in heat and humidity

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Watch temps closely after covering the tank. Humidity should go up, but temps may as well. Keep a close eye for a few hours and check regularly for a few days at least before returning to checking 1X a day or so.

You do not want Lucy getting too hot.

If you are at 50% without covering the tank, you are in good shape, I think, for getting to proper humidity once the tank is covered. Nice work!

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Originally Posted by ckenney35

I'm confused say what's not possible and then say it's possible?

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Apologies , I was aiming at 55fingers in his post #41

Viewing on TapaTalk his thread starts off with " it's not possible " but in the last paragraph it says " it is possible "


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Apologies , I was aiming at 55fingers in his post #41

Viewing on TapaTalk his thread starts off with " it's not possible " but in the last paragraph it says " it is possible "


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Actually if you look it says it is not impossible? I don't know why you're reading "not possible" when it actually says "not impossible", as in possible indeed.

It could just be tapatalk?

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Originally Posted by dakski

Watch temps closely after covering the tank. Humidity should go up, but temps may as well. Keep a close eye for a few hours and check regularly for a few days at least before returning to checking 1X a day or so.

You do not want Lucy getting too hot.

If you are at 50% without covering the tank, you are in good shape, I think, for getting to proper humidity once the tank is covered. Nice work!

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Ok here is some updated pictures of what I've done with the tank. Any other suggestions?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...28f2f6776f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1c7ea74308.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...87a1b337a1.jpg

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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

I honestly don’t know. It’s very difficult to get right in an aquarium. The first thing I would try would be misting down the substrate well and covering the top with foil or plastic.


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I put up some other pictures up of the modifications I did on Lucy's cage. Would you take a look and make any other suggestions


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Originally Posted by 55fingers

Actually if you look it says it is not impossible? I don't know why you're reading "not possible" when it actually says "not impossible", as in possible indeed.

It could just be tapatalk?

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Ah ...my apologies !!

It's me ..... I have referred many times in the past to my dyslexia / aspergers ... and there you see it in action .... simple misreading on my part ..


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